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Time+Tide
We don’t talk about vintage a lot at Time + Tide, unless it’s a Very Big Deal, such as a record-breaking auction result. But what about the vintage watches that fly under the radar? Bargains are out there if you’re willing to put in the effort. To wit: vintage stopwatches are a fun, cool piece … ContinuedThe post THE UNSUNG: Unearthing bargain treasures in vintage stopwatches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tech Gombessa presents a world-first three-hour timing bezel The “absolute black” dial captures almost 97% of the light to make the lume pop and enhance underwater legibility The release continues the 70th birthday celebrations of the Fifty Fathoms Laurent Ballesta is the closest thing we have to a modern-day Jacques Costeau. The … ContinuedThe post The Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Tech Gombessa is “a pure diving instrument” for the modern age appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Ulysse Nardin adds to their Blast collection with a new Tourbillon in Blue & Gold. This is a new model with the combination of rose gold and blue.
SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton (LV) marked the 20th anniversary of its first mechanical watch last year (with an El Primero-powered chronograph). The brand has rapidly evolved its horological offerings over the two decades, going from largely basic, monogrammed watches to ambitious complications like the gothic Carpe Diem Minute Repeater with automaton. A more whimsical example of LV’s progress in complications is the Tambour Slim Vivienne Jump Hours, a quirky interpretation of the jump hour complication that’s presented in a redesigned, svelte version of its signature drum-shaped case. Initial thoughts At the distance, the Vivienne Jump Hours looks like a run-of-the-mill character watch that’s slightly fancier than average. But upon closer inspection, it reveals a novel complication and an impressive degree of detail in the execution of the dial. The jump hour is mechanically conventional but presents as a double jumping indicator thanks to clever design. Its whimsical and unusual presentation typifies the spirit of LV. In fact, the complication is different enough that we hope it will make its way into more watches, especially timepieces for men. Given that the titular Vivienne character has a male counterpart named Gaston, it would make sense for the complication to make its way into a watch in a larger size. The Tambour Slim Vivienne Jumping Hours “Casino” with a green skarn dial And I really dig the dials of the Vivienne Jump Hours, especially the dial in skarn, a re...
Worn & Wound
Brellum is an up and coming independent brand that prides itself on its rich familial history in watchmaking. Founder Sebastian Muller can trace his family lineage of watchmakers all the way back to his great grandfather who set up his very own shop in 1910. The rest, as they say, is history. Brellum exists today with the intention of continuing the Mueller legacy by producing highly-crafted timepieces that, not only present with a thoughtful design for the modern day wearer, but to pay homage to their family’s passion for traditional Swiss watchmaking. Their surname is an anagram in the brand’s namesake afterall. Recently, the brand announced a very limited run of a handsome pilot’s chronograph equipped with a GMT function with the Brellum Pilot LE.1 GMT Chronometer. The dial is where the Brellum Pilot LE.1 GMT Chronometer shows a whole lot of flash without straying too far away from the traditional pilot’s watch aesthetic. And by flash, I mean that opalin silver-now dial. From the images, it seems that this dial has its own character all on its own, displaying a luster against radiant lighting, and then a more toned down matted white in neutral lighting. All of the dial markings use black as the main color for unmistakable legibility including the minute track, 24 hour display bordering the outer portion of the dial, and applied numeral hour markers. The subdials take up dial real-estate at six, twelve and nine with a date window sneaking into the six o’clock s...
SJX Watches
Since it was founded three years ago, Dubai-based retailer Perpétuel has released a number of well-applauded limited editions focused on up-and-coming independents and micro brands. It first began with the French brand Baltic through a limited release of the HMS and Bicompax, and more recently, the MR-01 Perpétuel, their spin on the brand’s best-selling micro-rotor wristwatch. The retailer has now tapped the services of Excelsior Park, a legacy brand that is based on the former watch company known for producing chronograph movements for the likes of Gallet, Girard-Perregaux and Zenith. After numerous failed attempts at reviving the brand in the 1980s and the 2000s, it was relaunched by watch industry veteran Guillaume Laidet who previously spearheaded the resurrection of legacy brands Nivada Grenchen and, more recently, Vulcain. After releasing a limited edition with a salmon dial that immediately sold out last year, they have teamed up once again to debut their latest collaboration in The Soda Fountain Edition, a limited release of the Excelsior EP95004 chronograph featuring a vibrant blue dial completed with applied Eastern-Arabic numerals. Initial thoughts The relaunch of Excelsior Park two years ago was kind of a godsend for vintage watch enthusiasts, given its long and rich history as a renowned movement maker. Since its rebirth, the brand has been carving itself a niche market catering towards a younger demographic who desire that vintage-styled watches but a...
Hodinkee
A real-life watch doctor talks about creating her own in-house movement, her new book, and her favorite watch movements.
Hodinkee
For the first of a brand new series, Ben chats with Ed Sheeran about watch collecting, the ebb and flow of Patek Philippe, and the untold flexibility of ketchup.
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet recently launched more than a dozen new models and predictably it was the Royal Oaks that got the most attention. But the most impressive new release was unquestionably the Code 11.59 Universelle. It’s a grand complication that boasts multiple complications most cleverly executed, in a remarkably compact case – the size of the watch is an achievement in itself. Though the Universelle is positively slender for a grand complication, it’s still a large watch. But criticising the Universelle for its somewhat ungainly looks is to miss the point completely. Just like a mid-engine Ferrari will never be a roomy vehicle capable of conveying four adults in comfort, a grand complication will never be a svelte watch. Even Francois-Paul Journe, a legendary talent who has long specialised in slim complications, needs a lot of volume to contain his most complicated watch, the double-sided Astronomic Souveraine. Grand complications, or more specifically mega complications, like the Universelle, are never pretty. That’s simply a matter of necessity – the mechanical complexity inevitably results in an enormous case and confusing dial. The F.P. Journe Astronomic, Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime, and Vacheron Constantin Tour de l’Ile are all equally large and confusing. The Astronomic is the smallest of the lot and it’s still 44 mm by 13.7 mm. And the Grandmaster Chime is a titanic 47.7 mm by 16.07 mm. I can confirm the Grandmaster Chime is titanic no matter ho...
Revolution
Wei visits Chronoswiss’ HQ in Lucerne to meet Owner and CEO, Oliver Ebstein to talk about the fifth iteration of Grail Watch – a recreation of the brand’s iconic Opus from 1995; the world’s first serially-produced skeletonized automatic chronograph. Ebstein, who prior to taking over as owner and CEO of the brand more than a […]
Time+Tide
Some extinct brands that get revived for the modern mechanical boom are often raised in mystery, bought out by private companies who heap glory on their adopted heritage to distract from the lack of modern substance. Fears is the direct opposite of that, not only being reincarnated by a member of the original family but … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The triumphant story of the Fears Brunswick appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
It’s probably a sign of just how much some people care about their watches, but timepieces have long been attributed human characteristics. I’ve often heard the movement of a watch described as its “beating heart”, while it’s also routine to talk about a watch’s “face” or “hands”. Perhaps this is a natural development given that … ContinuedThe post Meet my pet watch: Scientists create living smartwatch powered by slime appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
These days it’s not as impressive as it once was to have a successfully funded Kickstarter campaign. If you have a watch with an original design that offers good value for money, then you’ve got a great chance of hitting your goal. What’s not as easy to do is become your country’s most funded watch … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Tusenö Windseeker is a handsome watch with 1970s swagger appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Grail Watch returns with its fifth collaboration, a coalescence of two key chapters: the revival of a past icon reimagined with an incandescent luminous signature. We took the world’s first serially-produced self-winding skeletonized chronograph, the Chronoswiss Opus, and modernized its officer-style case in grade 5 titanium with an electric blue CVD-treatment. The translucency created by […]
Deployant
The independent watchmaking maison of Ultramarine expands their collection and goes upmarket with their new Beluga, now sporting the Kenissi movement.
Time+Tide
We thought it’d be fun to showcase some team-adjacent watches to match your game day gear. Check out these Super Bowl MVPs.The post Game time: Fly your team’s colours with these Super Bowl MVPs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Editor’s Note: In this Three Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Prashanth P. gives us a detailed look into their focused yet diverse collection. We love it for its unique point of view, and charming personality. See more from Prashanth on Instagram @watchesbringmejoy You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. I’ve read and enjoyed some of the earlier iterations in this series, but was unaware until recently that readers could submit an entry. I am certain that a significant portion of watch enthusiasts, myself included, have performed similar mental exercises for fun (“If I had X budget, what watches would I get?”). The twist here is that I will be selecting watches from my own tightly curated (that’s fancy for small) collection. I rotate four watches, so one of them will probably be upset at being passed over. Don’t worry, I’ll give it some extra wear time in the upcoming days to assuage any lingering bad feelings. To me, watch collections live at the intersection of lifestyle (including budget) and personal style. I hope you enjoy this glimpse at my address. Nomos Orion Duo – $1,600 I’m no fashion maven, but I enjoy dressing up, even if opportunities to do so have dwindled during the pandemic. This first pick is something that I consider my smart watch – the space between ‘smart’ and ‘watch’ being key here. It’s a Nomos Orion Duo, 33mm of manually winding Ba...
Worn & Wound
I haven’t been shy about sharing my adoration for this particular Promaster Dive watch from Citizen. Zach Kazan and I wrote about our impressions as owners of the same variant of this watch, with a perfectly unsubtle blue camo dial, and it’s a watch we both come back to often. To me, Citizen is at their best when they lean into the slightly strange, and they’ve got a number of designs that qualify, including these wonderful Ecozilla “ashtray” watches recently released. If camo isn’t quite your thing (I don’t blame you), their latest take on this platform might be right up your alley. And if you are into camo, you’ll probably still like it as well. The latest Promaster Dive uses the same fabulous gunmetal titanium case, but pairs it with a full lume dial and a bright orange minute hand. Lume dials are a tricky thing to pull off properly, but here it feels like a totally natural extension of the design of this watch. It feels right at home. The camo execution was funky enough to jive with the unusual case design, but the full lume feels like a more practical solution to bring a unique level of clarity and contrast to the watch as a whole. It takes a near novelty level watch to a supremely practical level of watch. Like the Aqualand JP2007-17W, the lume dial here is a light creamy green color that jumps off the black backdrop of the case and bezel. The hour plots are filled with lume of nearly the same color, but appear a bit brighter after a flash of light ...
Hodinkee
The Finnish master tells us what's on his wrist – and what's on tap for 2023.
Worn & Wound
Originally introduced in 1982, Citizen’s iconic Professional Diver watch achieved the highest depth rating of any watch in the world, up to an incredible 1300 meters. The initial release of the watch in the 1980s featured many of the same design elements as its modern predecessor, including the lug-less case, smooth lines, and chunky 60-click bezel. Today, we’re proud to announce that a new version of the watch is now available in the Windup Watch Shop, and this one features a fully-lumed dial. Originally introduced in 1982, Citizen’s iconic Professional Diver watch achieved the highest depth rating of any watch in the world, up to an incredible 1300 meters. The initial release of the watch in the 1980s featured many of the same design elements as its modern predecessor, including the lug-less case, smooth lines, and chunky 60-click bezel. Today, we’re proud to announce that a new version of the watch is now available in the Windup Watch Shop, and this one features a fully-lumed dial. The post Citizen’s Fully Lumed Promaster Diver Is Now Available In The Windup Watch Shop! appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Deployant
Rado collaborates with former WTA #1 and 2022 Australian Open Women's Singles Champion Ash Barty to launch a new edition of the popular True Square.
Worn & Wound
Back in 2018 we reviewed a watch from Meraud called the Bonaire, a time-only diver with some stylish undertones that elevated it from mere neo-vintage diver from a micro-brand status. In closing, Ilya expressed excitement about the future of the brand, and how that might manifest in different models. This week, we’re finally getting a look at the next chapter with the release of the hand-wound chronograph called the Antigua. This is a watch no longer content with stylish undertones, instead opting for outright stylish, full stop. The Antigua oozes personality from damn near every angle, and while not without fault, this is a watch that’s not just fun, but unexpected. Colorful hand-wound chronographs from small independent brands are certainly enjoying a moment thanks to the likes of Studio Underd0g, Lorier, and Baltic, among others, and Meraud carves their own path with the Antigua thanks to the well considered design (a trait shared by the others cited above), and the somewhat unconventional choice of movement. I wouldn’t go so far as to call the Antigua an anomaly, but it manages a fine balance between safe and comfortable, and quirky and strange, landing somewhere in the middle. It’s the best kind of follow up to a promising start, and I only wish it had come a little sooner, as this is a brand I’d like to see more from. $1917 Hands-On with the Colorful Meraud Antigua Chronograph Case Stainless Steel Movement Landeron 248 Dial Soft Sand, Miho Black Lume Supe...
Worn & Wound
It seems to me that more recently, Seiko has had “travel” on the mind. I say that based on the steadily increasing incorporation of the GMT complication within their more entry-level products. Last year we finally saw a GMT movement make its way into the Seiko 5 sports line with the SSK GMT and we all went bananas for it. I mean how could we not? It’s a travel ready watch packaged into a familiar and beloved Seiko design at a very reasonable price point. Their Prospex line however, has more experience with jumping time zones as it already provides multiple models with a fourth hand like the compass bezel equipped SNR025 and the more traditional looking traveler with the SNR033. Last week, Seiko announced a new GMT addition to the Prospex range and much to our excitement, they’re taking a page out of their SSK GMT release by throwing in a GMT complication into a familiar case silhouette. The new models we’re referring to are the SKF001J1 and the SFK003J1. Essentially what we have here is the Seiko Sumo with an added feature of a GMT hand via a solar powered quartz movement and a dial modification to accommodate the additional hand. The Seiko Sumo, which gets its nickname from its portly case and the signature twelve o’clock marker resembling the “Mawashi” of a competing sumo wrestler, got several updates from last year’s release including a ceramic bezel, super-hard coating, new dial design and a refresh to the accompanying stainless steel bracelet. The SF...
Deployant
Seiko introduces the King Seiko collection with four new references - limited edition in 37mm case, and three other novelties in 39mm case.
SJX Watches
Having redesigned the Polo to suit contemporary tastes in 2016, Piaget now debuts most complicated watch in its sports watch line, the Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin. With a steel case just 8.65 mm high, it’s dressed in the very current shade of dark green. Though the complication isn’t new for Piaget or even luxury-sports watches more broadly, the perpetual calendar takes the Polo into new territory as an upscale, complicated watch. The model was introduced in 1979 as a chunky watch with a geometric design rendered entirely in yellow gold, reflecting the popular style of the era. Today’s Polo bears little resemblance to its historical namesake and instead opts for a design in tune with today’s preference for sports watches in that aren’t round. Initial thoughts The new perpetual calendar is essentially the same proposition as its simpler brethren in the Polo line – a design and complication similar to more established luxury-sports watches, but at a more affordable price. So it has a patterned dial, cushion-shaped case, matching steel bracelet, and a retail price of US$58,500. That’s a reasonable ask considering its intrinsic features like finishing and complication. On the other hand, the Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5740/1G or recently launched Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin ref. 26586TI cost well into the six figures – but they are also more sophisticated mechanically and executed with much more refinement. In short,...
Time+Tide
In a bold move – which the brand claims is a world first in watchmaking - they’re opening up part of CODE41’s capital to the community.The post CODE41 shake things up (again) with a unique form of fundraising appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Audemars Piguet recently unveiled their first (very large) batch of new releases for 2023, and if your Instagram feeds are anything like ours, they absolutely took over. As expected, there were plenty of new Royal Oaks on display, and in a variety of materials and platforms. We also saw an expansion of the Code 11.59 collection, including an entirely new dial motif and a metal that many collectors have been waiting for. Now that the Worn & Wound editorial team has had a chance to wade through all the new watches, we thought we’d pick our favorites among the latest novelties. Blake Buettner I’ll admit I have a slight soft spot for so-called ‘Jumbo’ Royal Oaks. That is, Royal Oaks that follow the original template of the 5402ST put forth back in 1972: a slim 39mm case with the “AP” at 6 o’clock where it belongs. I also have a penchant for steel sport watches (well documented in these pages) and the Royal Oak arguably opened the door for the high-end category of the genre. It’s a watch I had been enormously enamored with upon my entry to the hobby, though that enthusiasm has waned in recent years as the watch found itself on a moon-bound trajectory in the market, and an ever increasing variety of precious metal variants that, while handsome, deviate a bit too far from the simple, approachable(ish) nature of the original (for my taste, at least). That said, the soft spot remains. When a new generation of the watch was announced last year, the 16202, in cele...
If you think about the typical Valentine’s Day gifts, whether it’s flowers or chocolates, they tend to lean on the temporary side of gifting. Here at Worn & Wound, we like our gifts to be much for long-lasting and put the fun into functional. So who wouldn’t love to get some bright red Victorinox gear to celebrate a day typically full of red bouquets that’ll decay or red boxes of sweets that’ll disappear more quickly than they probably should. We know we’d choose a Victorinox for Valentine’s Day. The post A Bright Red Victorinox Gift Guide for Valentine’s Day Giving appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Quill & Pad
After nine hectic years as Editor-in-Chief and co-founder of Quill & Pad, Elizabeth Doerr announces her well-earned retirement.
Worn & Wound
Back in the days, when the market for an affordable GMT was incredibly sparse, I distinctly recall the Bulova Accutron Astronaut as being one of the potential vintage options to add to the collection. At the time, I was already attracted to the aesthetic of a 24 hour steel bezel on a black dial watch, and the pairing of its faded green markers, as well as the italicized Astronaut wordmark, made it all the more appealing. Sadly, the Astronaut never made its way into the watchbox. Since then however, we’ve seen Bulova release several Accutron models in the form of the Legacy Collection, Spaceview, and DNA. But despite popular reissued designs like the Bulova Lunar Pilot Chronograph, we have yet to see a re-edition of the Accutron Astronaut GMT … until today. The new Accutron Astronaut is based off of the original 1968 “T” model featuring a distinct 41mm saucer steel case and a short lug set that just reveal themselves under the bezel. From overhead, the bezel eclipses the entire case making you want to look sideways at the thing. Like literally, sideways. Doing so displays the slim midcase that then angles inwards towards the caseback. No battery hatch here, as the caseback sports a semicircle exhibition display akin to that of a window on a space shuttle, providing an opportunity to peer inside at the Astronaut’s Sellita SW330 GMT movement. Despite the name Accutron, where its latter syllable is derived from the word “electronic,” from the original model’s t...
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