Chronograph Watches · Page 146

Review: the Oris Big Crown Calibre 473

There’s a lot of talk among watch collectors of “signature watches.” Watches that essentially serve to define a brand, or even an entire category. The Omega Speedmaster, for example, is a perfect example of a signature watch. Can you even imagine Omega without it? You can’t – it’s integral to the whole operation. They have other collections, sure, but they live and die with the Speedmaster.  Does Oris have a signature watch? I walk by an Oris authorized dealer in my neighborhood just about every day, and there’s a giant decal on the side of their building prominently featuring an Oris Aquis. For as long as I can remember, this authorized dealer has had this kind of marketing in this specific place, always featuring an Aquis. Is the Aquis Oris’s signature watch? I think for many collectors it might be. It’s a modern tool watch (with an integrated bracelet, well before the hype) that has specs making it competitive with virtually any well known diver, but thanks to the aforementioned bracelet it has something unique about it that can only be Oris.  It’s possible that to an even wider swath of customers, the Divers 65 is the Oris signature watch. I can remember when this watch was first reissued in a modern context, and it was something of a phenomenon. It put Oris on the map for many enthusiasts entering the hobby at the beginning of a boom time for the entire industry, and remains a key watch in the vintage throwback category that virtually every brand...

Introducing: Audemars Piguet's Newest Releases Bring The Concept And Offshore Design Closer Together

While the Concept's movement may be the biggest achievement, the newest flying tourbillon chronograph might be the moment the Offshore comes into its own in a new, big way.

Vintage Watches: A 1972 Rolex Day-Date In White Gold, A 1960s Movado M95 Chronograph, And A 1970s Zenith Defy De Luxe

Plus, an update on Vintage Watches here at Hodinkee!

Bulova Makes a Stronger (and Smaller) Case for Why You Should Add the Lunar Pilot Chronograph

The history of the Bulova Lunar Pilot Chronograph is a nebulous one. Sure, its claim to fame is that it was worn on the moon’s surface by astronaut Dave Scott during the 1971 Apollo 15 mission. As the story goes, Scott’s issued Omega Speedmaster malfunctioned during his second moonwalk, which opened up the door for his personal Bulova Lunar Pilot to get some action. But there were always questions to be answered in regards to where its design came from, what movement it used, and how it got into Scott’s possession in the first place. If you’re an Apollo enthusiast, moonwatch enthusiast, or both, then I’m sure these queries already have the gears turning. But before you move that cursor over to your browser search bar, I strongly suggest you stay right here and check out this editorial piece written back in 2016 by W&W contributor, Hung Doan, as he covers all the bases in this interesting piece of investigative journalism. Alright, welcome back! Interesting bit of history, right? Dave Scott’s Bulova Worn On The Moon During The Apollo 15 Mission Fast forward to today, Bulova has announced that they are expanding their Lunar Pilot Chronograph line with two brand new models – a black dial and accompanying subdials harkening back to the traditional steel case special edition model and a cream textured dial with navy blue accents. Both variations get a new and improved case that’ll be more suitable for a wider range of wrist sizes, as well as a cleaner dial layou...

INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph Panda is the sportiest version yet

The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph Panda is the sportiest member of the collection thus far Joins the black reverse panda model from 2018 with a silver panda colourway Powered by the in-house calibre 5200, complete with Geneva Seal and solid gold rotor engraved with a compass rose The Overseas from Vacheron Constantin has been the … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph Panda is the sportiest version yet appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Accutron Astronaut GMT Makes its Return to Horology Relevancy with Re-Edition of “T” Model

Back in the days, when the market for an affordable GMT was incredibly sparse, I distinctly recall the Bulova Accutron Astronaut as being one of the potential vintage options to add to the collection. At the time, I was already attracted to the aesthetic of a 24 hour steel bezel on a black dial watch, and the pairing of its faded green markers, as well as the italicized Astronaut wordmark, made it all the more appealing. Sadly, the Astronaut never made its way into the watchbox. Since then however, we’ve seen Bulova release several Accutron models in the form of the Legacy Collection, Spaceview, and DNA. But despite popular reissued designs like the Bulova Lunar Pilot Chronograph, we have yet to see a re-edition of the Accutron Astronaut GMT … until today. The new Accutron Astronaut is based off of the original 1968 “T” model featuring a distinct 41mm saucer steel case and a short lug set that just reveal themselves under the bezel. From overhead, the bezel eclipses the entire case making you want to look sideways at the thing. Like literally, sideways. Doing so displays the slim midcase that then angles inwards towards the caseback. No battery hatch here, as the caseback sports a semicircle exhibition display akin to that of a window on a space shuttle, providing an opportunity to peer inside at the Astronaut’s Sellita SW330 GMT movement. Despite the name Accutron, where its latter syllable is derived from the word “electronic,” from the original model’s t...

Vacheron Constantin Welcomes Panda Dial Chronograph to Overseas Collection

The small world of high-end steel chronographs gets a little bigger today with the introduction of a new Overseas Chronograph reference from Vacheron Constantin featuring a ‘Panda’ dial colorway. The Overseas Chronograph has seen a range of colorways over the years, including a reverse panda that currently exists in the collection, but never a white/silver base dial with contrasting black sub-dials. As this colorway is known to do on already handsome watches (and even some not so handsome watches), it looks pretty damn good. As presented here, we’re left with what might be the cleanest manifestation of the Overseas Chronograph design to date.  The Overseas collection was first launched in 1996 (though it is the spiritual successor to the 222 first introduced in the mid ‘70s), and the Overseas Chronograph has seen a variety of executions in that time. In 2016, the watch welcomed the in-house caliber 5200 which moved the distinctive dual-aperture date complication to a single aperture at 4:30. It also gained a couple of millimeters in the process, going from 40mm to 42.5mm in diameter, and to 13.7mm in thickness. That said, it’s still a pretty nice watch on the wrist, as the case tapers under the bezel, and it’s a pretty flat profile along the bottom, so while it’s not wearing quite as trim as something like a Daytona (the 4130 caliber shares the same dimensions as the 5200 btw), it’s indeed more comfortable than you might expect. The real star of the show h...

Bulova Adds Slimmed-Down Versions Of The Lunar Pilot To Their Archive Series

Introducing the new Bulova Lunar Pilot chronograph slimmed down with a new case diameter of 43.5mm. Read more for specs and pricing.

Introducing the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Chronograph “Panda”

New: Méraud Antigua with the historical Landeron 248 caliber

Méraud Watch Co. presents the Antigua, a gorgeous manual chronograph watch with NOS Landeron 248 caliber movements, in a maritime motif.

INTRODUCING: The Seiko Speedtimer Mechanical Chronograph SRQ045 conjures black magic from a historical stopwatch

Seiko’s latest addition to the Speedtimer line of chronographs sports a sinister new black finish The 8R46 column wheel caliber offers solid value for an in-house chrono movement The dial’s look is based on a historical Seiko stopwatch from the 1970s Seiko was the first to market with the automatic chronograph, the original Speedtimer 6139, … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Seiko Speedtimer Mechanical Chronograph SRQ045 conjures black magic from a historical stopwatch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Patria Brigadier Flyback Chronograph: Run, Don’t Walk, It Was The Best Value Swiss Made Automatic Chronograph Available Today (Until Sold Out)- Reprise

Every time Ian Skellern writes the words “relatively affordable” here on Quill & Pad, he braces himself for the stream of comments reminding him that he must live in an alternative reality to most of the world. So he doesn't describe the Patria Brigadier Flyback Chrono as relatively affordable (though compared to most of the watches we review on Quill & Pad he thinks it well merits that description), but he does think that it’s fantastic value and the bargain of the year. And here he explains why.

Introducing: Audemars Piguet's Most Complicated Watch Ever: The New Code 11.59 Universelle RD#4

A total of 23 complications – including a perpetual calendar, minute repeater, grand and petite sonnerie, flyback chronograph, and tourbillon – show AP's prowess as a true watchmaker of ultra-complicated watches.

Actively Black x Teleport ‘Obama’ Watch: Hands On - Reprise

On January 1, 2022, watch spotters were flummoxed by a photograph of President Barack Obama and First Lady Michelle Obama in their New Year's Eve party dress. The former POTUS appeared to be wearing a black Royal Oak-style chronograph on a rubber strap. The watch in question turned out to be a collaboration between Teleport, a little-known U.S.-based fashion watch producer, and Actively Black, a U.S.-owned leisurewear company. Colin Alexander Smith managed to get his hands on one for a closer look, which he shares here.

Introducing The Audemars Piguet Offshore 43mm Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph in Black Ceramic

Introducing the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT

Amongst the wave of new Royal Oaks just unveiled by Audemars Piguet (AP) is a new “Concept”, the Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT. Historically a platform to showcase novel materials and aggressive design, the new Royal Oak Concept (ROC) continues down that route – but more notably contains an all-new and cleverly-constructed rattrapante chronograph movement with automatic winding. Initial thoughts Much like previous models in the ROC line, the new split-seconds chronograph is a bold statement with a chunky, aggressive case, albeit one refined to become more wearable, especially in light of its size – it is the most wearing Concept to date. Paradoxically, the movement within the large-format case was clearly designed with thinness in mind. For a split-seconds chronograph with a big date, second time zone, and automatic winding, the movement measures a modest 8.92 mm high, svelte by the standards of the complications mix. And in contrast to the design (which brings to mind the Richard Mille RM 11), the movement is unusually refined and clever. An example of is the rotor that’s supported by a large central hub, which provides enough space in the middle to house the entire split-seconds mechanism. This serves to both reduce thickness, while simultaneously offering a view of the rattrapante mechanism without being obstructed by the rotor. Deceptively oversized As with most of its counterparts in the collection, the new ROC has a geometrically-shape...

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 Universelle

Undoubtedly the flagship of its recent new launches, the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Universelle is the brand’s most complicated wristwatch in recent years – or perhaps ever. A project that began in 2016, the uber-complication rooted in history: it is a tribute to L’Universelle, the grand complication pocket watch from 1899 made by AP for German watchmaker Union. But the watch simultaneously pushes the brand’s modern-day watchmaking to the limit, particularly in terms of miniaturising highly complex mechanisms. The Universelle is available in two guises, the open dial above and the solid dial pictured further up Officially one of the brand’s Research and Development timepieces – the model is also known as the RD#4 – the Universelle is an exercise in combining into a single wristwatch all the traditional mechanisms that constitute a grand complication, and then some – perpetual calendar, rattrapante chronograph with flyback, tourbillon, and grande et petite sonnerie with minute repeater. L’Universelle on display in the Audemars Piguet Museum Initial thoughts An assuming name that means little to anyone who doesn’t understand the historical inspiration, Universelle is a horological behemoth that captures AP’s industrial and mechanical capability. Though it has a highly modern design, the Universelle harks back to a bygone era of high watchmaking that prized highly complicated watches incorporating as many features as feasible into a (barely) wearable...

AP Social Club Day 2: 40 functions, 23 complications, ONE WATCH?!

New RD#4: Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Universelle boasts 40 functions and 23 complications in one watch. Royal Oak Concept debuts in 43mm size with split-seconds chronograph GMT. New Royal Oak Perpetual Colander Ultra-Thin has a smoky-blue dial exclusive to the model As if yesterday’s announcements had not already satiated our appetite for new Audemars Piguet pieces, … ContinuedThe post AP Social Club Day 2: 40 functions, 23 complications, ONE WATCH?! appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing the TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Porsche Orange Racing

TAG Heuer Hits the Track with New Carrera Chronograph x Porsche Orange Racing

TAG Heuer and Porsche have revealed the latest fruits of their partnership in a new Cerrar Chronograph dubbed the Orange Racing. It’s been two years since the announcement of these two brands coming together once again, which came alongside this Porsche Carrera with road surface textured dial, and the latest member of that family turns up the color for an equal amount of drama. This watch represents the sixth creation of a TAG Heuer x Porsche watch, and while it treads into new territory thanks to its unique colorway, it also carries many of the familiar hallmarks we’ve come to expect from TAG Heuer chronographs.  This Carrera x Porsche Chronograph, much like the examples that came before it, features a full set of applied Arabic numerals around that dial marking each 5 minute segment rather than the hours. This lends itself to the sporty, speedometer-esque feeling of the dial, which in this case, is accentuated by orange outlines defining each area of the dial. The black base of the dial gets a fine vertical brushing that’s noticeable, but doesn’t quite compete with the application of color. The rings of color, which inspire the name of the watch, appear to be something near Porsche’s Lava Orange (paint code M2A), though that specific color isn’t referenced by TAG Heuer. This color lands somewhere between red and orange and obviously works in rather dramatic fashion against the black backdrop of this watch. The dial itself is outlined, as are each of the sub ...

RedBar and Bamford Combine Carbon Fiber Monopusher Chrono with Mystery Dials in Latest Collaboration

Customizing luxury watches used to be an untouchable subject. But in this day and age, that sort of thinking is a thing of the past. More and more, we’ve been seeing different companies center their services around customizing individual timepieces. And it’s not just the consumer broadening their horizons. The major players in the industry have also shifted their thoughts on other creatives taking a crack at designing their watches. One name that has earned the trust of brands like Franck Mueller, Zenith, and TAG Heuer is the Bamford Watch Department. We already know that if George Bamford, founder of the Bamford Watch Department (BWD), is attaching his name to a customization or collaborative project, we’re getting something that is totally unique. Whether it’s the clever use of bold colors, well-known cartoon characters, or alternative materials, George Bamford has a proven track record with charmingly incorporating each of these features (and sometimes all three at the same time) into every watch that delivers from the BWD. The latest brand to tap into the design mind of Bamford is the world-renowned collecting community known as the RedBar Group. The new collaborative piece between the RedBar Group and the Bamford Watch Department goes by the name of the RedBar x Bamford B347. The first draw here is the forged carbon fiber case. The black case has this familiar white swirly pattern, and thanks to the way the composite material is made, each case will have its o...

Hands On: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 in Stainless Steel

At its release in 2019, the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet created lots of buzz – some of it for the wrong reasons, with the design being panned as uninspiring. But Audemars Piguet (AP) stuck with the model and swiftly tweaked the formula, resulting in watches that were better received, including the recent Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Starwheel. Now the base models have received a facelift that does away with the plain dials of the originals, replacing them with a finely-patterned stamped dial. Available as either a chronograph or three-hander, the new Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet is also in stainless steel, making it (slightly) more accessible. Initial thoughts The redesigned Code 11.59 is certainly more appealing than the original, with the dial giving it a level of visual detail absent from its predecessor. Fans of the original will like the new Code 11.59, and those on the fence will probably be persuaded as well. But anyone who disliked the original will not be swayed since it is essentially the same watch but in new attire. Although the dials are stamped, they offer a surprising level of detail. The pattern is intricate enough that I thought they were engraved with a CNC machine when I first saw them. The “smoked beige” dial And the one in blue To go with the new dial are redesigned hands and hour markers. Gone are the plain baton hands and markers with Arabic quarters, they have been replaced by baton hands and markers with more detail. The markers are fa...

Audemars Piguet Introduces the First All-Ceramic Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph

Amongst the usual Royal Oaks just debuted by Audemars Piguet (AP) is the Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph 42mm Black Ceramic. It’s the very first Offshore entirely in ceramic – both the case and bracelet are ceramic, as are the pushers and crown. And like all newer Offshore 42 mm models, it’s powered by the in-house cal. 4404. Initial thoughts The new Offshore is a straightforward proposition – monochromatic in black and white, and mostly ceramic. It’s essentially the original Offshore in a fancier execution, both in terms of materials as well as the movement. So you appreciate the relative simplicity of the original Offshore design, this is easy to like. Part of the appeal comes from the material. The all-black ceramic livery suits the no-frills aesthetic of the original Offshore well. At the same time, AP excels at finishing ceramic so the case and bracelet have the same lustrous surfaces as their metal counterparts. As a result, the watch has a tangible, tactile quality that is appealing. That said, ceramic is slightly glossier than metal, so the brushed surfaces don’t have the same matte finish as the metal equivalents. The only downside is the price – CHF70,000 before taxes. That’s almost double the model in steel and only a little less than the version in rose gold. According to AP that’s due to the difficulty of finishing the ceramic bracelet, but the price is still difficult to rationalise. Ceramic end to end While AP does offer Royal Oa...