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Chronograph Watches · Page 18

Affordable Vintage: the Longines Grand Prize Worn & Wound
Feb 4, 2026

Affordable Vintage: the Longines Grand Prize

Longines is a storied and well-respected Swiss watch manufacture that formed in 1832 and has continued uninterrupted to this day. From the first wrist chronometer in 1911, to groundbreaking flyback chronographs in the 1930s, to the world’s first hi-beat wrist chronometer in 1959, Longines holds their own in the watchmaking world.  My favorite period for watches is the 1950s through the 1970s and Longines was one of the top accessible brands during that time. In 1954 Longines began a marketing strategy of product families, launching the Conquest line of watches. In 1957 they introduced the Flagship line, adding to what would become a large group of watch families, many of which are still made today. Other lines that came later include the Admiral, the Ultra-Chron and the Grand Prize. The Grand Prize line was named in honor of the multitude of watchmaking awards and honors that Longines had accumulated over the decades. It was a relatively short-lived family, produced from about 1958 to 1964 according to my research. I have found that the majority of Longines watches produced during these decades were all fairly equal in quality and craftsmanship, with most of the differences in the families being design related. The Conquests were rugged and sporty, on par with the early non-diver Omega Seamaster watches. The Flagship series were dress watches, while the Admiral line was a mixture of both. The Grand Prize family were pretty much all thin, elegant everyday type dressier w...

Audemars Piguet Upgrades the Royal Oak Chronograph 38 mm SJX Watches
Feb 4, 2026

Audemars Piguet Upgrades the Royal Oak Chronograph 38 mm

Audemars Piguet (AP) updates the Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronograph 38 mm with a new manufacture calibre, sapphire display back, while slightly tweaking the iconic design – and retaining the price of its predecessor. The new cal. 6401 comes with welcome quality-of-life improvements such as a longer power reserve and instantaneous date without tradeoffs in wearability, beat rate, or even cost, making this compact chronograph one of the most sensible and compelling offerings in the Royal Oak line. Initial Thoughts AP debuted the first Royal Oak chronograph in 1997 and it was powered by the Frederic Piguet cal. 1185, a landmark movement for automatic chronograph design. Now, nearly three decades later, AP is a true industrialised manufacture, and the cal. 1185 has been replaced with the new cal. 6401, a modern movement that with meaningful upgrades under the hood. This also comes with some minute tweaks to the dial and a crowd pleasing display case back, while the case and bracelet remain as excellent as always. Laudably, this comes without a significant price increase, with the new Royal Oak Chronograph 38 mm in steel costing only 3.6% more than its predecessor. New Engine AP’s new cal. 6401 is a solidly-spec’ed movement despite being small and thin for a modern chronograph. It’s wide and taller than the Frederic Piguet cal. 1185 but only slightly. It is 27 mm in diameter (up from 26.2 mm) and 5.7 mm tall (up from 5.5 mm) though even with the addition of a sapphire ...

Introducing: Three 38mm Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronographs With A New In-House Movement Fratello
Feb 4, 2026

Introducing: Three 38mm Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronographs With A New In-House Movement

After using a relatively common Frederic Piguet movement for almost 30 years, Audemars Piguet now introduces the 6401, an in-house automatic chronograph caliber. It offers higher accuracy, greater reliability, and a more refined appearance. The brand’s 38mm Royal Oak is the first model to feature the new movement. You can choose between a stainless steel […] Visit Introducing: Three 38mm Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Chronographs With A New In-House Movement to read the full article.

The Dawn of Heuer Dive Watches: How A House of Chronographs Saved Itself By Embracing The Depths Worn & Wound
Feb 3, 2026

The Dawn of Heuer Dive Watches: How A House of Chronographs Saved Itself By Embracing The Depths

Few other watchmakers enjoyed as much success and cachet as Heuer, especially during the fervent 1960s and 1970s. Not only had it launched one of the world’s first automatic chronographs, but it pushed the envelope on modern design with midcentury-cool chronographs like the uniquely square Monaco. Heuer was riding high on the glamor of Grand Prix: the Heuer shield was as indelible to the backdrops of Monza and Le Mans as Ferrari, Porsche, and McLaren themselves as the official timekeeper of Formula One.  But, inevitably, the quartz revolution came for Heuer. Jack Heuer was the third-generation CEO of the company that bore his name, and he had been a savvy marketer, personally hawking chronographs to drivers like Jo Siffert and Nikki Lauda. By the 1980s, however, he found himself backed into a corner, and in 1982, he was forced to sell the company to Piaget and Lemania-a humiliating low point in his life, as he recounted in his autobiography.  Yet, before he departed, he gave Heuer one saving grace. In 1979, he commissioned Heuer’s first dive watch, the Professional Series. At a trade show Jack had overheard a brief conversation about the unreliability of existing dive watches, and he aimed to emulate Rolex’s success with the Submariner and Sea-Dweller. (Incidentally, Rolex owned half of Heuer’s stock market shares, and nearly took over the company around this time.)  Photo by Blake Rong Heuer had spent the decade building an electronic timing division, which b...

Traska Introduces their First Chronograph Worn & Wound
Feb 3, 2026

Traska Introduces their First Chronograph

While the news today is dominated by big releases from Holy Trinity brands that will be nearly impossible for mere mortals to see in person, let alone buy, Traska has what feels like an antidote, or at least a cleansing breath when it feels we’re being flooded with watches that fall into the dreaded “hype” category. Their first new watch in nearly four years is also their first chronograph (conveniently named, the Traska Chronograph) and it applies much of the brand’s ethos into a platform that we’re honestly surprised they hadn’t pursued to this point.  If you need a refresher on Traska, we invite you to read up on Venturer GMT, which Griffin reviewed recently here. While this is a look at one specific watch, Griffin gets to something about how we understand Traska, which is that they produce watches that are part of a long lineage of purpose built tools. The word “Rolex” is invoked multiple times in that Venturer review not because Traska has a connection to that brand’s current status as the most well known luxury object in the world, but to a previous state when watches were prized for their simplicity and usefulness. Rolex made great leaps from the middle of the last century onward simply by standardizing a design language for sports watches that has become definitional to the category at this point, and I think what Traska is doing with a commitment to using steel hardening treatments and offering other points of value in every watch while adhering...

Introducing – The New Designs of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronographs in Ceramic and Titanium Monochrome
Feb 3, 2026

Introducing – The New Designs of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronographs in Ceramic and Titanium

Since its debut in 1993, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore has served as the brand´s most expressive, aggressive, and experimental platform. Bigger, bolder and much more muscular than the original Royal Oak, the Offshore lived up to its “Beast” nickname, while becoming a showcase for material innovation and colour exploration. The 2021 redesign marked […]

Photo And Video Report: Speedy Tuesday Event In Hong Kong Fratello
Feb 3, 2026

Photo And Video Report: Speedy Tuesday Event In Hong Kong

On January 13th, we hosted our first Speedy Tuesday event for 2026 in Hong Kong. With about 80 guests, we celebrated the day that became synonymous with the Omega Speedmaster in the world of watches. Since 2013, we’ve been organizing events worldwide for collectors and enthusiasts of Omega’s most famous chronograph. Our second Speedy Tuesday […] Visit Photo And Video Report: Speedy Tuesday Event In Hong Kong to read the full article.

Monochrome Teams up with Angelus for their Latest Montre de Souscription Limited Edition Worn & Wound
Feb 2, 2026

Monochrome Teams up with Angelus for their Latest Montre de Souscription Limited Edition

One thing that we’ve learned quite clearly over the last decade or so is that there are a lot of different ways to release a limited edition watch, particularly a collaborative limited edition. Our friends over at Monochrome have a particularly interesting way of doing it, with their Montre de Souscription series, which makes limited edition watches available on a “subscription” basis, a throwback to a very old way of selling watches. This is essentially the offer of a pre-order with money down, that allows the watchmakers to begin working on the pieces to be sold later. The concept has evolved and become quite common, but in the early days of watchmaking this was the only way that fine watches could be made and that everyone involved could make a living at it, so the term has come to evoke classical watchmaking in a very real way. For their part, Monochrome has chosen to work with some very esteemed and similarly old-fashioned independent brands since this series launched in 2020, including Habring (twice), Armin Strom, and Czapek.  Last week, they debuted the latest MDS series watch, the Montre de Souscription 5 x Angelus Chronographe Tachymètre. This is a new spin on the Chronographe Télémètre, a watch that was among our favorite debuts at Watches & Wonders last year. As you might guess from the name, the new piece made with Monochrome switches out the telemeter scale on the chronograph for a tachymeter.   There are other little changes as well, but the mos...

First Look – The Louis Vuitton x De Bethune LVDB-03 Louis Varius Project, With a Rare Sympathetic Clock Monochrome
Feb 2, 2026

First Look – The Louis Vuitton x De Bethune LVDB-03 Louis Varius Project, With a Rare Sympathetic Clock

Here’s the third of the five collaboration watches done by Louis Vuitton with some of the most revered independent watchmakers. Indeed, following the LVRR-01 Chronographe à Sonnerie made with Rexhep Rexhepi, founder of Atelier Akrivia, and the LVKV-02 GMR 6 made with Finnish-born watchmaker Kari Voutilainen, it’s time now for LV to unveil its project […]

Speedmaster Reduced vs. Speedmaster Professional: Comparison Review of Teddy Baldassarre
Jan 30, 2026

Speedmaster Reduced vs. Speedmaster Professional: Comparison Review of

The Omega Speedmaster is among the heavyweight champions of the watch world. For so many out there, it's the entryway into the enthusiast community, a jumping-off point before taking the plunge into watches as a hobby, and the Speedmaster continues to be one of the most recognizable names in the industry. Today, we’re going to get a little more granular on the subject and put two iterations of the icon, which have been the subject of much debate, head-to-head: the Speedmaster Reduced and the classic Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional. Down below, I’ll set up the scene with a little history lesson, and then break down the key similarities and differences between the two to keep in mind.   [toc-section heading="History and Context"]  As one of the legends of watchmaking, the story of the Speedmaster is one often told and retold, so I will keep things quick and to the point here. If you want to go more in-depth on its backstory, feel free to break away from this article and head to our complete guide to the Speedmaster here. A symbol of the Space Race era, the Omega Speedmaster is most well-known for its role on the Apollo 11 mission in 1969, which officially made it the first watch to ever be worn on the Moon. It’s the watch that’s been aboard all six of the moon landing missions, thus earning the “Moonwatch” title once and for all. Taking off from its original motorsport-oriented intent to be the chosen watch of space exploration, the key DNA of the Speedmast...

Introducing – The Bold, High-Tech Chopard Zagato Lab One Concept Monochrome
Jan 30, 2026

Introducing – The Bold, High-Tech Chopard Zagato Lab One Concept

Since Chopard‘s and Zagato‘s first collaboration in 2013 with the Mille Miglia Zagato Chronograph, followed by the 2019 Mille Miglia Classic Chronograph Zagato 100th Anniversary Edition, the two family-run brands have used watchmaking to express automotive culture. With the Zagato Lab One Concept, Chopard takes that collaboration further, delivering a true concept watch focused on structure, […]

Fratello’s Top 5 Favorite Recent Audemars Piguet Releases Fratello
Jan 30, 2026

Fratello’s Top 5 Favorite Recent Audemars Piguet Releases

At the beginning of every year, Audemars Piguet graces us with a series of novelties. Last year was a big one for Audemars Piguet, with the unveiling of some brilliant new releases to mark its 150th anniversary. Among them were the new Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar and the Royal Oak Chronograph. These two watches introduced […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Favorite Recent Audemars Piguet Releases to read the full article.

Comments 4

  1. C. Almeida
    The framing here is frankly a bit off. A chronograph is hardly the most-engineered complication in Swiss watchmaking; that crown belongs to perpetual calendars and minute repeaters. That said, the automatic chronograph remains the most *accessible* complicated movement for volume producers, and that's a worthier claim. The 1969 reference is apt, though the real innovation happened years before.
    1. Ben W. replying to C. Almeida
      Fair correction on the engineering hierarchy. But I'd add: the "accessibility" angle gets muddied fast once you're actually trying to buy one. A Daytona or even a Tudor Chrono sits behind waitlists and AD games that make "accessible" feel like marketing speak. The movement's elegant, sure, but the secondary market lottery around these watches tells a different story about what buyers actually face.
  2. Reece
    thinking about getting my first chrono and this helped a lot. is a vintage automatic worth learning on or should i just grab something new first. also how much should i realistically spend.
    1. WristBuzz Team replying to Reece
      This all depends on your own feelings and what you like to spend. Pretty hard to answer imho.

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