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Chronograph Watches · Page 184

Living With: H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Funky Blue SJX Watches
Jan 21, 2021

Living With: H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Funky Blue

H. Moser & Cie. launched the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph almost exactly a year ago with a launch edition of a 100 pieces that sold out quickly. I liked the watch when I first saw it in late 2019. Both its design and execution were done well, and the movement is special. Unlike many of its peers, the Streamliner is an original in a segment dominated by derivative watches. So when I was offered the chance to borrow the prototype for a few days – off the wrist of Moser chief executive Edouard Meylan, who had been wearing it skiing – it was an easy yes. Initial thoughts Reminiscent of the 1970s and 1980s sports watches – but not the obvious ones like the Nautilus and Royal Oak – the Streamliner is one of the few integrated-bracelet sports watches that isn’t derivative, which is a feat in itself. The “Funky Blue” version has exactly the same design and movement, but with a new dial in a graduated, metallic blue that’s even more striking. I do, however, miss the vertically-brushed finish on the dial of the launch edition, which was uncommon amongst Moser watches. The subtle, radially-brushed finish of the Funky Blue dial Aesthetic aside, a key part of its appeal lies in the HMC 902 movement, a calibre developed by Geneva specialist Agenhor. Not only is the construction clever, it is also good looking, despite its modern aesthetics. Traditionally-styled chronograph movements like the L951.1 of the Datograph are usually the most attractive, but the HMC 902 is...

IN-DEPTH: The new Zenith Chronomaster Sport has earned the right to take a trick from a rival Time+Tide
Jan 21, 2021

IN-DEPTH: The new Zenith Chronomaster Sport has earned the right to take a trick from a rival

Ok, here’s a fact: The Rolex Daytona owes a debt to the Zenith El Primero. A modified version of the El Primero movement powered the Daytona for 12 years, and marked the first automatic Daytona models. This all happened when I was merely 12 years old, in 1988. And now, Zenith is taking that debt … ContinuedThe post IN-DEPTH: The new Zenith Chronomaster Sport has earned the right to take a trick from a rival appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

In-Depth: Patek Philippe Grande Sonnerie Ref. 6301P-001 SJX Watches
Jan 12, 2021

In-Depth: Patek Philippe Grande Sonnerie Ref. 6301P-001

Patek Philippe closed 2020 in a big way with the launch of the Grande Sonnerie ref. 6301P-001 in November. The most complicated wristwatch unveiled by the Geneva watchmaker in recent years, the Grande Sonnerie is a grande and petite sonnerie carillon. With last year’s Geneva watch fair cancelled, the brand unveiled its new releases one by one throughout the year, starting with the limited-edition Calatrava ref. 6007A in June, allowing each new model to be in stores as soon as it was announced. The Grande Sonnerie ref. 6301P-001 was no different, albeit on a tiny scale, with reputedly only a handful available in each region – all sold before the launch. Initial thoughts An impressively large watch, the ref. 6301P feels like a modern-day grand complication. The size is a consequence of the wide and complex movement, so the watch has good proportions all things considered. But the styling is classical, incorporating many elements from vintage Patek Philippe watches – and also the ref. 5370P split-seconds chronograph – which gives it an elegant appearance, something helped by the relative thinness of the case. Still, it is clearly a contemporary watch – Patek Philippe rarely does exact remakes of vintage watches – with details that mark it out as such, including the recessed case band and the luminous hands. The fact that the watch is contemporary is evident in the movement, which looks and functions like a modern calibre, reflecting Patek Philippe’s measured,...

Richard Mille RM 65-01 Split Seconds Automatic Chronograph: How Many Clicks Does It Take? Quill & Pad
Jan 10, 2021

Richard Mille RM 65-01 Split Seconds Automatic Chronograph: How Many Clicks Does It Take?

The RM 65-01 is the latest in a proud line of rugged, structurally advanced chronographs from Richard Mille. In basic terms, it is an automatic, split-seconds chronograph with 30-minute and 12-hour totalizers that displays the date and includes a function selector, rapid winding mechanism, and variable geometry winding rotor. But as Joshua Munchow reveals, there's much more to it than that.

What does the new 2021 Omega Speedmaster 3861 Collection really mean for buyers? Time+Tide
Jan 8, 2021

What does the new 2021 Omega Speedmaster 3861 Collection really mean for buyers?

Earlier this week, aptly on a #speedytuesday in Switzerland, Omega has released a new generation of Omega Speedmaster watches. The upgrade has been long-awaited with the previous references largely unchanged for the past 50 years. The Omega Speedmaster 3861 models announced  introduce master chronometer co-axial technology to the professional moon watch – with subtle changes … ContinuedThe post What does the new 2021 Omega Speedmaster 3861 Collection really mean for buyers? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Zenith Introduces the Final Remake of the Original, 1969 El Primero Trio SJX Watches
Jan 7, 2021

Zenith Introduces the Final Remake of the Original, 1969 El Primero Trio

After having brought back the A384 and A386 for the 50th anniversary of the El Primero in 2019, Zenith has finally remade the last of the three original, 1969 El Primero chronographs. Like the earlier two re-editions, the Chronomaster Revival A385 is faithful to the original, retaining both the proportions of the case and dial – while also boasting a historically-correct movement, an accomplishment exclusive to Zenith since its never stopped making the calibre. As it was with the vintage originals, the A385 remake has the same the tonneau-shaped case found on the A384, but stands out with its smoked dial finish, a defining feature of the original, which also has a cool backstory. In 1970, an original A385 was fastened to the landing gear of a Boeing 707 operated by Air France on a flight from Paris to New York – and the watch kept perfect time on landing. A vintage brochure showing the original El Primero trio that made their debut in 1969 Initial thoughts Being a spot-on reissue means the A385 is unimaginative, but that precisely what makes it appealing. In fact, it’s difficult to not like the watch, which retains all of the qualities of the original – from design to landmark movement – while being reasonably priced, as Zenith watches most often are. And the icing on the cake is the dial finish, a warm tone sets it apart from the many El Primero re-editions, most of which are dressed in plainer colours. The smoked, coffee-colour dial also evokes the faded, “t...

Up Close: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar SJX Watches
Jan 6, 2021

Up Close: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar

Having revived the Master Control line early last year, Jaeger-LeCoultre largely translated models from the 1990s into the present day, save for one all-new watch, the Master Control Chronograph Calendar. The Chronograph Calendar features two complications that JLC long offered individually, but never combined before – the chronograph and triple calendar with moon phase. Taking its cues from the bestselling, 1990s collection of the same name, the Master Control is a gentleman’s watch in several flavours, all defined by a subtly retro style. Though a new model, the Chronograph Calendar retains the same style, while having a movement that’s the brand’s longstanding chronograph calibre with the addition of its well-known triple calendar module. The “Master Control” moniker originated from the fact that watches in the original collection were all tested for 1000 hours Initial thoughts Possessing a solid, workmanlike build and finish, the Chronograph Calendar sticks to the ageless Master Control look of the 1990s, more or less. While a couple of details could be improved – one reasonably expects more of the movement given JLC’s history – the Chronograph Calendar is good overall. The Calendar Chronograph in rose gold (left) and steel Visually, the Calendar Chronograph is a largish watch, though it doesn’t measure as such. At 40 mm wide and 12.05 mm high – close in size to the Rolex Daytona – the Chronograph Calendar is moderately sized, but the desig...

HANDS-ON: The Zenith Chronomaster Revival A385 is the return of a sepia-toned legend Time+Tide
Jan 5, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Zenith Chronomaster Revival A385 is the return of a sepia-toned legend

This morning a new generation of Omega Speedmaster Professionals were announced, but that was not the only legendary chronograph revival and rejuvenation introduced today. Zenith has unveiled a new tribute to one of their chronographs from 1969: the Zenith Chronomaster Revival A385 Gradient Dial. Game-changers in their day, Zenith produced three watches that were not … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Zenith Chronomaster Revival A385 is the return of a sepia-toned legend appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Omega Introduces the Speedmaster Moonwatch Master Chronometer with Cal. 3861 SJX Watches
Jan 5, 2021

Omega Introduces the Speedmaster Moonwatch Master Chronometer with Cal. 3861

Long anticipated and widely discussed ahead of its release, the new-generation Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch has finally arrived. Officially the Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional Co-Axial Master Chronometer Chronograph 42 mm, the upgraded version of the famous chronograph is an attractive blend of vintage design elements and modern movement technology. Launched in eight variants, the new Moonwatch line begins with the entry-level model in steel with a Hesalite crystal and solid back, with the top of the line model being the version in 18k Canopus gold, a white-gold alloy proprietary to Omega. The new Moonwatch in Sedna gold (left) and Canopus gold All the versions, however, share the same design features, as well as the cal. 3861, which is also found in the recently-launched Speedmaster Silver Snoopy Award. A new-and-improved version of the cal. 1861 that powered the Moonwatch for decades, the cal. 3861 boasts all of the technological bells and whistles that define Omega’s contemporary movements. The new calibre is also is partly responsible for a price rise, with the new Moonwatch being about 25% more expensive than its equivalent with the cal. 1861. The cal. 3861 under the display back; only the Hesalite-crystal model has a solid back Initial thoughts The new Moonwatch is appealing but predictable in packaging details taken from vintage Speedmasters along with the new cal. 3861. Mostly derived from the Speedmaster ref. ST 105.012, the vintage elements incl...

VIDEO: One final loving glance at the now phased out (and much cheaper) Omega Speedmaster “Sapphire Sandwich”, which will only be in store while final stocks last Time+Tide
Jan 5, 2021

VIDEO: One final loving glance at the now phased out (and much cheaper) Omega Speedmaster “Sapphire Sandwich”, which will only be in store while final stocks last

Editor’s note: Today, Omega did what they had been hinting at for months: they launched eight new Speedmaster references across four models, all with the new Master Chronometer Calibre 3861. The four references include regular versions with Hesalite and Sapphire and precious metal versions in Omega’s proprietary Canopus gold and Sedna gold, all with options … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: One final loving glance at the now phased out (and much cheaper) Omega Speedmaster “Sapphire Sandwich”, which will only be in store while final stocks last appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Bulgari Aluminium collection shows lightweight watches can pack a heavy punch Time+Tide
Dec 30, 2020

The Bulgari Aluminium collection shows lightweight watches can pack a heavy punch

Editor’s note: There’s no doubt that the Bulgari watch department is having a very big year. So far they have got hearts racing with the launch of their record-breaking Octo Finissimo Tourbillon Chronograph Skeleton Automatic, the new Octo Finissimo in satin-polished steel, and then their remarkable High-End Watch novelties. And if that wasn’t enough, there … ContinuedThe post The Bulgari Aluminium collection shows lightweight watches can pack a heavy punch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Auction Watch: Vacheron Constantin Tour de l’Ile Grand Complication SJX Watches
Dec 29, 2020

Auction Watch: Vacheron Constantin Tour de l’Ile Grand Complication

Taking place at the end of the third week of January 2021, the first major international watch auction is Antiquorum’s Important Modern & Vintage Timepieces in Monaco. The 304-lot auction will be capped by an appropriately major watch – the very first Vacheron Constantin Tour de l’Île Grand Complication that was produced for the watchmaker’s 250th anniversary in 2005. First sold for 1.88 million Swiss francs at the Quarter Millennium of Vacheron Constantin thematic auction staged by Antiquorum and Vacheron Constantin in April 2005, the Tour de l’Ile was one of the first mega-complications of the modern era. When the Tour de l’Ile was launched, the Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 5002 was only three years old, the Lange Tourbograph had yet to be launched, and Greubel Forsey had only been founded a year earlier. At its launch, the Tour de l’Ile was billed as the world’s most complicated wristwatch – and also became the most expensive wristwatch sold at auction – thanks to its 16 complications displayed on two faces in a case 47 mm wide and almost 18 mm tall. Named after the location of Vacheron Constantin’s workshop in the 18th and 19th centuries – Tour de l’Ile literally translates as “tower on the island” – the wristwatch is powered by the 834-component cal. 2750. It features a minute repeater, perpetual calendar with moon phase, star chart, celestial annual calendar, tourbillon, sunrise and sunset times, equation of time, power...

Why did the second Paul Newman Rolex Daytona sell at auction for the “bargain” price of $5m? Time+Tide
Dec 27, 2020

Why did the second Paul Newman Rolex Daytona sell at auction for the “bargain” price of $5m?

Nothing over $1 million can really be called a bargain. Particularly when it’s a mere wristwatch from the Swinging Sixties. Yet we all know the stratospheric values paid for Paul Newman’s Rolex Daytona 6241. The first one went for a mind-boggling and (then) world record $17.8 million USD back in 2017. Fast forward to the … ContinuedThe post Why did the second Paul Newman Rolex Daytona sell at auction for the “bargain” price of $5m? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Comments 4

  1. C. Almeida
    The framing here is frankly a bit off. A chronograph is hardly the most-engineered complication in Swiss watchmaking; that crown belongs to perpetual calendars and minute repeaters. That said, the automatic chronograph remains the most *accessible* complicated movement for volume producers, and that's a worthier claim. The 1969 reference is apt, though the real innovation happened years before.
    1. Ben W. replying to C. Almeida
      Fair correction on the engineering hierarchy. But I'd add: the "accessibility" angle gets muddied fast once you're actually trying to buy one. A Daytona or even a Tudor Chrono sits behind waitlists and AD games that make "accessible" feel like marketing speak. The movement's elegant, sure, but the secondary market lottery around these watches tells a different story about what buyers actually face.
  2. Reece
    thinking about getting my first chrono and this helped a lot. is a vintage automatic worth learning on or should i just grab something new first. also how much should i realistically spend.
    1. WristBuzz Team replying to Reece
      This all depends on your own feelings and what you like to spend. Pretty hard to answer imho.

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