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Chronograph Watches · Page 188

Montblanc Debuts the 1858 Split Second Chronograph in Lime Gold SJX Watches
Mar 22, 2021

Montblanc Debuts the 1858 Split Second Chronograph in Lime Gold

A watchmaker that was once a prominent maker of chronographs, Minerva is the star in Montblanc’s mountain. Since the pen-turned-watchmaker took over Minerva, it has launched several chronographs powered by Minerva calibres. The flagship chronograph is arguably the mono-pusher split-second first launched in bronze two years ago. Montblanc has since rolled out several additional iterations, but in affordable alloys like titanium. Now the brand has finally unveiled the first precious-metal version, the 1858 Split Second Chronograph Limited Edition 18 in “Lime Gold”. Initial thoughts Two qualities often distinguish the great from the good in chronographs – a balanced, attractive dial combined with an intricate, good-looking movement – and all the better if the watch is priced well. The 1858 Split Second Chronograph is, by the two measures, a high performer. Let’s begin with the aesthetics. While splendid looking movements with high technical content are rare, it’s even less common combined with good design on the front. That is why I appreciate the 1858 chronograph – the dial is well done, with the positions of the counters just right, giving it a rare finesse. And even though the dial is busy, the many elements are harmoniously arranged. Admittedly, the design is not new, it’s essentially a replica of early 20th century dials, but Montblanc reproduced it just right. The counters at the sweet spot, not too far from the edge of the dial The movement is simil...

INTRODUCING: The Bremont Jaguar E-Type 60th Anniversary Chronograph. Time+Tide
Mar 22, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Bremont Jaguar E-Type 60th Anniversary Chronograph.

Finally, after a five-year hiatus, my inner petrolhead is awakened from its slumber, and by a watch! I will not bore you with my younger days of owning British sports cars from the Triumph GT6 to a Lotus Elan to a lovely series 1 Jaguar XJ6 from 1970 with dark blue leather seats. But one … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bremont Jaguar E-Type 60th Anniversary Chronograph. appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Molnar Fabry Unveils the Ultra-Thin Carpe Noctem Skeleton SJX Watches
Mar 22, 2021

Molnar Fabry Unveils the Ultra-Thin Carpe Noctem Skeleton

Based in Slovakia, Molnar Fabry is a pair of jewellers-turned-watchmakers who specialise in elaborate skeleton watches. The duo’s repertoire is diverse, ranging from a repurposed split-seconds pocket watch movement from the 1930s to an Omega Co-Axial cal. 8500 that looks nothing like the industrially-produced original. The brand’s latest is unusual, its first ultra-thin dress watch. Commissioned by a client as most of its watches are, the Carpe Noctem (Latin for “seize the night”) is just 7.1 mm high, and powered by a reworked Vaucher VMF 5401. Initial thoughts The VMF 5401 is a finely constructed movement – as all of Vaucher’s movements are – but rarely decorated in such an artisanal, intricate manner. Molnar Fabry’s revamp of the movement reveals much of its detail, while also showing off the brand’s skill in working with metal. Because Molnar Fabry’s watches are all one-offs that are hand made, the aesthetic varies tremendously, depending also on the client’s taste. The Carpe Noctem is cleaner and sleeker than many of the brand’s other creations, but boasts just as much craftsmanship in the movement, which is a good thing. The chapter ring for the hours is steel finished with circular graining, with the Roman numerals being engraved and filled with black lacquer, while the hands are solid 18k pink gold At €35,000, Carpe Noctem is priced like earlier, comparable watches by Molnar Fabry. It’s a substantial sum of money, but a reasonable ask co...

INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet 2021 Royal Oak Chronographs powered by in-house AP caliber 4401 Time+Tide
Mar 20, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet 2021 Royal Oak Chronographs powered by in-house AP caliber 4401

We all know the “Holy Trinity” manufacturers can be called out at times for being on the slower side when it comes to product evolution. To be honest, that’s for a good reason, too. The pursuit towards perfection has to be careful and calculated, and each of the brands have to ensure their watches live … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Audemars Piguet 2021 Royal Oak Chronographs powered by in-house AP caliber 4401 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The Hamilton Intra-Matic Chronograph H combines retro swagger with a mechanical movement Time+Tide
Mar 14, 2021

INTRODUCING: The Hamilton Intra-Matic Chronograph H combines retro swagger with a mechanical movement

We really should have seen the Hamilton Intra-Matic Chronograph H coming. Having played with the idea before, this hand-wound, bi-register chrono – in beautifully proportioned panda and reverse panda dial variants – sees Hamilton effectively resurrect and update its first chronograph. The modern Intra-Matic Chronograph H is compelling in either dial, taking direct inspiration from … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hamilton Intra-Matic Chronograph H combines retro swagger with a mechanical movement appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Recommended Reading: Dufour and Journe are basically the Patek and Rolex of the Indies, and they are on a tear Time+Tide
Mar 13, 2021

Recommended Reading: Dufour and Journe are basically the Patek and Rolex of the Indies, and they are on a tear

The tide seems to be shifting in the auction world towards scarcity and craftsmanship, rather than scratched-up provenance and movie-star affiliations. We could see results of this theory already in our story on the latest Antiquorum auction here. In Monaco, the auction darlings of the last five years, steel sports Rolex, did OK, whereas the … ContinuedThe post Recommended Reading: Dufour and Journe are basically the Patek and Rolex of the Indies, and they are on a tear appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

MICRO MONDAYS: Furlan Marri deliver retro chronographs at a great price in their assured debut collection Time+Tide
Mar 7, 2021

MICRO MONDAYS: Furlan Marri deliver retro chronographs at a great price in their assured debut collection

The 1940s were peak years for twin register chronographs with some notable greats from Patek Philippe, Vacheron Constantin and Lemania.  As the functional sports watches of that era, the typical twin register layout was balanced with a delicate design language and an often whimsical art-deco flourish to the graphics. In 2021, their intricate detail and … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: Furlan Marri deliver retro chronographs at a great price in their assured debut collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Sinn’s Submarine-Steel Dive Watch Gets a Patina Dial SJX Watches
Mar 5, 2021

Sinn’s Submarine-Steel Dive Watch Gets a Patina Dial

Known for its utilitarian “tool” watches, Sinn’s latest is a variation on its bestselling dive watch. The U1 DS is a limited-edition rendition of the brand’s dive watch that’s best known for having a case made from the same steel alloy as German navy submarines. Limited to 500 pieces, the U1 DS features a dial that has been lapped to achieve a seemingly worn-out finish, whilst retaining the famed robustness that characterises the U1. The combination is a juxtaposition of an aged dial and a case that will likely never show any wear. Initial thoughts The U1 DS is a clear winner in my books. The dial’s battle-scarred look suits the submarine-inspired genesis of the U1, which has long had a military feel, despite not being a military-issue watch (though Sinn did made a special edition for a special-forces unit of the German military). Despite the new finish, the U1 retains its trademark legibility. The randomly-scratched texture does not detract from readability or the distinctive U1 dial design. Its signature block-shaped hands and hour markers remain prominent. Though it’s an uncommon look, Sinn has been using this randomly-textured finish frequently of late. The finish was first used in 2019 on the 356 Fliegerchronograph for Singapore retailer The Hour Glass, and then last year on the EZM3.F.V. that was only sold in Japan. The patina finish remains rare, but not quite as rare as it seems to be. The Japan-only EZM3.F.V. Despite being a limited edition, the U...

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: TAG Heuer celebrate the Carrera in Chadstone and there’s a reason we love Rolex forums Time+Tide
Mar 4, 2021

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: TAG Heuer celebrate the Carrera in Chadstone and there’s a reason we love Rolex forums

Yet another regrettable effect of COVID is that, over the last twelve months, it’s stopped most of the watch community from experiencing timepieces in the metal. Thankfully, that’s starting to change in Australia as, with the pandemic increasingly under control, watch events are starting to happen once again. One of the first public events is … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: TAG Heuer celebrate the Carrera in Chadstone and there’s a reason we love Rolex forums appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breitling Introduces the Chronomat Red Arrows SJX Watches
Mar 3, 2021

Breitling Introduces the Chronomat Red Arrows

Best known for its pilot’s watches, Breitling has long enjoyed relationships with airforces across the world, including the United Kingdom’s Royal Air Force (RAF), especially its fabled aerobatic team, the Red Arrows. Continuing a partnership that is three decades old, Breitling has just announced the Chronomat Red Arrows Limited Edition. This is the latest in several Red Arrows editions that began in the 1990s, but the first that’s based on the latest-generation Chronomat, which also means it’s the first with an in-house movement, the Caliber 01. Not as revered by enthusiasts as the Navitimer with its distinctive slide-rule bezel, the Chronomat is nonetheless underrated. Introduced in 1984 to mark Breitling’s 100th anniversary, the modern-day Chronomat was a return to form for the brand, being a bold, brand-new design equipped with a mechanical movement, specifically the Valjoux 7750. Made even more distinctive with its Rouleaux bracelet made up of baton links, the Chronomat quickly became a bestseller that defined Breitling in the 1990s. Initial thoughts Given that fact that perhaps the best known Breitling-Red Arrows watch was a 1995 Chronomat with a red dial, the new edition makes perfect sense. That said, the Red Arrows watch is essentially the same as the standard Chronomat with a blue dial, but with the Red Arrows logo at 12 o’clock. Having more Red Arrows-specific elements incorporated to the design would have made it more distinctive, but since this ...

The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Sedna Gold elevates a week of work-from-home looks Time+Tide
Mar 3, 2021

The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Sedna Gold elevates a week of work-from-home looks

It’s late-February in the UK, winter is still biting and though there are only baby signs of the lockdown being lifted, there is still a sense the end could be nigh. “Sadwear” has gripped much of my Instagram feeds’ sartorial choices over the past 12 months, but I have resolutely resisted wearing tracksuit bottoms while … ContinuedThe post The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Sedna Gold elevates a week of work-from-home looks appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Comments 4

  1. C. Almeida
    The framing here is frankly a bit off. A chronograph is hardly the most-engineered complication in Swiss watchmaking; that crown belongs to perpetual calendars and minute repeaters. That said, the automatic chronograph remains the most *accessible* complicated movement for volume producers, and that's a worthier claim. The 1969 reference is apt, though the real innovation happened years before.
    1. Ben W. replying to C. Almeida
      Fair correction on the engineering hierarchy. But I'd add: the "accessibility" angle gets muddied fast once you're actually trying to buy one. A Daytona or even a Tudor Chrono sits behind waitlists and AD games that make "accessible" feel like marketing speak. The movement's elegant, sure, but the secondary market lottery around these watches tells a different story about what buyers actually face.
  2. Reece
    thinking about getting my first chrono and this helped a lot. is a vintage automatic worth learning on or should i just grab something new first. also how much should i realistically spend.
    1. WristBuzz Team replying to Reece
      This all depends on your own feelings and what you like to spend. Pretty hard to answer imho.

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