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Chronograph Watches · Page 28

Gears and Gaskets: Spotting Mechanical Icons on Wrist and Road at the Lime Rock Historic Festival 43 Worn & Wound
Sep 4, 2025

Gears and Gaskets: Spotting Mechanical Icons on Wrist and Road at the Lime Rock Historic Festival 43

Each Labor Day weekend for the last 42 years, the quiet hillsides of Northwestern Connecticut boom to life with sounds from a bygone era as vintage engines triumphantly roar to life on the circuit. This year, the 43rd Historic Festival, was my first year joining the action. Now, Lime Rock is not just a celebration of motorsports’ golden era spent staring at showpiece collector cars from behind a velvet rope, but rather a gathering of people for whom mechanical beauty and intricacy hold enduring appeal. David Von Bader with a late 1970s Heuer Montreal Ref. 750-503N As such, I entered under the assumption that while lifting bonnets, wrenching on bolts, polishing headlights, and lubricating gaskets, there would be some level of horological enthusiasm slipping out from under the cuff. Walking from the hillside into the paddock, it was immediately clear that the connection between car culture and horology held true. Breaking free from the distraction on track as the yellow pitbull 1965 Mini Cooper chased down a few vintage Porsches and BMWs, my eye snagged on a disk of gold glistening in the mechanics’ pit. There, wrenching away in a Jaguar mechanics jacket under a 1952 Jaguar XK120 propped up on stilts was James Alder from Reno, Nevada. Hands covered in grease, Jim was not gentle with the precious tool that slipped in and out of his cuff as he reached for engine fittings, trying to diagnose his firing problems. On his wrist sat a vintage Breitling Premier Chronograph from ...

In-Depth – The Return of the TAG Heuer TH-Carbonspring Oscillator, Inside new Carbon Monaco and Carrera Models Monochrome
Sep 4, 2025

In-Depth – The Return of the TAG Heuer TH-Carbonspring Oscillator, Inside new Carbon Monaco and Carrera Models

Since Christiaan Huygens paired a balance wheel and spiral spring in 1675, the hairspring has been the beating heart of every mechanical watch. Its material has always dictated chronometric performance. Steel, used for centuries, suffered from magnetism and temperature drift. Special alloys developed in the 20th century improved reliability – from Elinvar to Nivarox/Nivachron, made […]

In-Depth: TAG Heuer Achieves Carbon Hairspring Industrialisation SJX Watches
Sep 4, 2025

In-Depth: TAG Heuer Achieves Carbon Hairspring Industrialisation

TAG Heuer is marking the rollout of its new-and-improved, and in-house, carbon hairsprings – timed to coincide with the 350th anniversary of the hairspring’s invention – with a pair of chronographs: the Monaco Flyback Chronograph TH-Carbonspring and Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon Extreme Sport TH-Carbonspring. More than just two new watches, the TH-Carbonspring is a notable technical achievement that might promise an entirely new generation of TAG Heuer movements equipped with oscillators that boast all of the advantages of silicon, but with added robustness. Protected by several patents, TH-Carbonspring is also the result of a fascinating process of research and development to overcome a surprising problem. Kitted out in carbon composite dials and cases, the two watches are centred on TAG Heuer’s latest-generation carbon-nanocomposite balance springs, with each being a limited edition of just 50 pieces Initial thoughts Both models serve as a launch platform for TAG Heuer’s improved and industrialisation-ready carbon hairspring. While the brand has been flirting with carbon hairsprings since 2019, its use of the technology has been intermittent and on limited scale. TAG Heuer explains previous attempts at carbon springs were not up to the brand’s standards, which is to say the hairsprings did not perform as expected and could not be produced at scale. The new TH-Carbonspring indicates TAG Heuer has perfected the technology to make reliable hairsprings, which m...

TAG Heuer Introduces Carbon Monaco And Carrera Models Equipped With The Revolutionary TH-Carbonspring Fratello
Sep 4, 2025

TAG Heuer Introduces Carbon Monaco And Carrera Models Equipped With The Revolutionary TH-Carbonspring

Watch brands are constantly pushing the boundaries of new materials. Several brands have proprietary ones that they use for cases, dials, and hands, but using new materials for calibers happens far less frequently. Today, TAG Heuer introduces a carbon hairspring as a revolutionary next step in material use for watch movements. The innovative TH-Carbonspring was […] Visit TAG Heuer Introduces Carbon Monaco And Carrera Models Equipped With The Revolutionary TH-Carbonspring to read the full article.

What Happens When Two Swiss Icons From The 1960s Collaborate? Introducing The Zenith Defy Chronograph USM Fratello
Sep 4, 2025

What Happens When Two Swiss Icons From The 1960s Collaborate? Introducing The Zenith Defy Chronograph USM

What if the 1969 Defy had been outfitted with an El Primero chronograph movement? And what if its design had been inspired by the USM Haller modular furniture system that debuted four years earlier? The answer is the 2025 Zenith Defy Chronograph USM. The four watches with dials in USM shades and subtle details linking […] Visit What Happens When Two Swiss Icons From The 1960s Collaborate? Introducing The Zenith Defy Chronograph USM to read the full article.

Mido Ocean Star: A Complete Guide To The Historic Dive Watch Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 3, 2025

Mido Ocean Star: A Complete Guide To The Historic Dive Watch

Mido is not one of the more widely familiar watchmakers in North America - though its watches have enjoyed a longstanding popularity south of the border, in Latin America - despite the fact that the brand, now owned by Swatch Group, has been around for a long time. It was founded on November 11, 1918, the same date of the armistice that ended World War I, by watchmaker Georges G. Schaeren (below) in the Swiss town of Biel-Bienne. Its name comes from the Spanish phrase Yo Mido, meaning “I Measure,” which may or may not indicate that Schaeren had always intended his products to appeal to a large Spanish-speaking audience. What is indisputable is that the Mido brand contributed some significant innovations to watchmaking in the 20th Century, few of which are often acknowledged. The company came up with one of the first solutions to waterproofing watch cases in 1930, developing a sealing system (below) that installed a watertight gasket made of cork between the crown and the case; Mido later named this invention “Aquadura.” The Mido Multifort, still produced today, debuted in 1934 and became the first antimagnetic watch with automatic winding. In 1945, Mido unveiled the Multi-CenterChrono, the first chronograph watch with a central display for the elapsed time, and in 1954 developed the Powerwind automatic winding system that increased efficiency by reducing the number of parts in the mechanism. Of all these milestones, it was the Aquadura waterproofing technolog...

Czapek Introduces the New Antarctique Rattrapante R.U.R. Worn & Wound
Sep 3, 2025

Czapek Introduces the New Antarctique Rattrapante R.U.R.

It’s hard to think that the first Antarctique is just five years old. In that time, what started as a bit of a surprise from a relatively unknown independent brand has become core to our understanding of independent sports watches, and the Antarctique in particular has become one of watchmaking’s most compelling platforms. Whether it be interpreted as a compact time-only sports watch or a highly complicated marvel, the Antarctique has been hard to ignore. Now, Czapek is bringing back one of its most notable variations - with a bit of a twist. The Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante ‘R.U.R.’ builds on what may be the most compelling Antarctiques to date (the GPHG Nominated Rattrapante Ice Blue), but brings in a bit of sci-fi to turn it into something fun and different. The new grey and blue colorway is a big part of this, as is the use of a fictional robotic language inspired by the Predator movies, but the most notable addition when compared to the Rattrapante Ice Blue is undoubtedly the inclusion of a robot’s head at 12 o’clock. This micro-sculpture - which, in titanium, is hand-polished, laser-engraved, and micro-painted to achieve an impressive amount of fine detail and depth - was made for Czapek by MD’Art, who previously collaborated with Czapek to make the mirror-finished dial used on the Antarctique S Mirrored Sincere Platinum Jubilee Edition last year. The robot head sits just above the column wheel on the dial side of the watch and has eyes that cha...

What is a Chronograph Watch? Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 3, 2025

What is a Chronograph Watch?

Chronograph watches are among the most popular styles of timepieces: iconic models like the Rolex Daytona, Omega Speedmaster, TAG Heuer Carrera, and Breitling Navitimer, for example, have become some of the most famous and collectible watches in the modern era and have contributed to the enduring appeal of the chronograph to generations of enthusiasts. If you're new to the watch game, however, you might be wondering not only what all the buzz is about but what these watches actually do that makes them so special. Read on for a comprehensive primer on chronograph watches, from their earliest ancestors to the most ambitious, avant-garde timekeeping technology available in chronographs today. Chronograph vs. Chronometer As I explore in depth in our guide to chronometers, one of the first hurdles to clear for newcomers to watch appreciation is the clarification of two very common horological categories: Chronometer and Chronograph. Quite simply, a chronometer (from the Greek chronos, meaning time, and meter, meaning measure) is any watch or clock that keeps reliably accurate time, usually as determined by an outside independent testing agency, whereas a chronograph (from chronos and graph, i.e., to “write time”) is any watch or clock with the ability to track and record intervals of time, aka a stopwatch. The terms are not interchangeable but they are also not mutually exclusive: a watch equipped with chronograph functions can also be a chronometer if it has met a s...

Introducing – The Singer Caballero, the Brand’s Take on a Time-Only Watch with the New Calibre-4 Monochrome
Sep 3, 2025

Introducing – The Singer Caballero, the Brand’s Take on a Time-Only Watch with the New Calibre-4

Singer Reimagined has spent the past eight years experimenting with what independent watchmaking can look like. The Geneva-based brand, founded by Rob Dickinson of Singer Vehicle Design and designer Marco Borraccino, established its name with the radical Track 1 chronograph, powered by Agenhor’s Agengraphe. It was followed by the stripped-down Flytrack, the diving-oriented Divetrack, and […]

First Look – The Robot-Themed Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante R.U.R Edition Monochrome
Sep 2, 2025

First Look – The Robot-Themed Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante R.U.R Edition

As its name suggests, the Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante R.U.R is an evolution of the dial-side split-seconds chronograph presented in 2021. You might be wondering what lies behind the cryptic R.U.R acronym? Well, the word “robot” comes from the Czech “robota,” meaning “forced labour” or “serfdom,” and it was popularised by another famous Czech-born personality with […]

Do The Robot With The New Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante R.U.R. Fratello
Sep 2, 2025

Do The Robot With The New Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante R.U.R.

Any Czapek will surely suffice to secure some attention and strike up a conversation at a party. A rattrapante Czapek should draw even more of a crowd. But if, for whatever reason, you want to make an even stronger statement, you’ll want a watch with a party trick up its sleeve. Look no further than […] Visit Do The Robot With The New Czapek Antarctique Rattrapante R.U.R. to read the full article.

Singer Reimagined Minds its Manners with the Caballero SJX Watches
Sep 2, 2025

Singer Reimagined Minds its Manners with the Caballero

Best known for its Agenhor-powered chronographs, Singer Reimagined has just released its first time-only watch, the Caballero. Inside is the Calibre-4 Solotempo representing another first, being the brand’s first proprietary movement. With four barrels powering the Caballero for six days, the Calibre-4’s distinctive architecture can be discerned from the front thanks to jewel portholes in the dial. Spanish for “gentleman”, the Caballero is available in three colourways; the piano black and empire green colours are familiar from the Heritage Collection chronographs, but the petrol blue colour is new for the brand. Though not strictly a limited edition, the watches will be rare enough, assembled in small quantities at the brand’s atelier in central Geneva. Initial thoughts There tends to be a lot of crossover between the worlds of horology and high-end cars. Fans of the latter are no-doubt familiar with Singer Vehicle Design, which has made a name for itself restoring and modifying vintage Porsche 911s – specifically the 964 of the early 1990s – elevating the model to a standard that would have been impractical in its own time. The watchmaking arm, which operates as an independent sister company, has been quietly making interesting watches since 2017, largely focused on vintage motorsport themes. For the Caballero, this inspiration is conveyed most prominently by the golden needle hub that covers up the base of the hand stack, similar to those used by vintage a...

IWC Pilot’s Watch 41 Automatic TOP GUN Editions Review WatchAdvice
Sep 2, 2025

IWC Pilot’s Watch 41 Automatic TOP GUN Editions Review

This year, IWC launched 41mm time-only versions of their Lake Tahoe and Mojave Desert Pilot’s Watch TOP GUN editions. In a slimmer case size, but still with the looks and feel of the bigger chronograph siblings, we had to test them out! What We Love The white ceramic on the Lake Tahoe is super fresh. The size and lighter weight make these very easy-to-wear watches Both rubber straps are comfortable, and each has nice design touches. What We Don’t The Mojave Desert can blend into your skin depending on your skin type  The anti-reflective coating on the slightly domed crystal does make it hard to take a good photo! The luminescence on the hands and dial could be better and of a higher grade. Overall Rating: 8.9 / 10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 First Impressions When I first saw the white Lake Tahoe Pilot’s Watch 41 Top Gun earlier this year, I was keen to get both it and the Mojave Desert model to compare them properly. My initial impression? They’re essentially the same watch, just in different colourways, with the Mojave on a fabric-inlaid rubber strap and the Lake Tahoe on straight rubber. But sometimes, that slight aesthetic difference makes all the impact, as I was to find out! The Lake Tahoe feels fresh and bold. With its all-white case and strap against a black dial, it jumps off the wrist. The Mojave Desert, with its sand-coloured case, strap, and matching indices on a grey dial, is far more subdued. It blen...