Deployant
Glashütte Original ventures into chromatic futurism with two daring new takes on its Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date. “Plasma” and “Fusion” fuse retro form with shifting, high-impact color-where digital inspiration meets mechanical precision.
Monochrome
In recent years, basically since the introduction of the ceramic bezel on the steel edition (the 116500LN), the Daytona has become the hottest watch in Rolex’s portfolio, but also remained a fairly conservative model, with a rather parsimonious use of colours. This hasn’t always been the case, though, and in the past, we’ve seen wild […]
Teddy Baldassarre
The Omega Speedmaster, aka the Moonwatch, is one of the most legendary and collectible watch models in the world. Originally conceived as a wristwatch for race car drivers, it has since become much more associated with its pivotal role in history as the watch used by the astronauts on the Apollo 11 mission in 1969, thus making it the first watch worn on the moon. Now the undisputed centerpiece of the modern Omega watch portfolio, the original Speedmaster has not only changed very little from the timepiece that symbolized America’s Space Race supremacy more than 50 years ago; it has also given rise to dozens of special editions, innovative variations, and the use of bold new technologies and avant-garde materials in the pioneering spirit of early space exploration. 1957: A YEAR OF MASTERY The Space Race that dominated the 1960s had yet to kick off in 1957, the year that Omega, a Swiss watch manufacturer founded in 1848, released a trio of sport-oriented tool watches with “Master” in their names, all descended stylistically from the first Seamaster of 1948, one of the first waterproof dress watches. One was the Seamaster 300, an evolution of the original that was built for deep-sea diving (I explore the Seamaster collection in depth here). The second was the Railmaster, a watch aimed at scientists and technicians whose technical hallmark was its extreme magnetic resistance (more on the Railmaster here). The third, and most influential, was the Speedmaster, which as i...
Monochrome
Long considered a low-end production site for accessible timepieces (which is still partially true), the Chinese watch industry is fast changing and evolving in a positive direction. Besides industry giants such as Peacock and Seagull (the latter capable of making split-second chronographs), there’s a burgeoning indie scene that needs to be explored. We can name […]
Teddy Baldassarre
Panda-dial watches - a category of chronographs that derive their nickname from their two-tone dial colorways, generally defined by black subdials on a white main dial - have gone from a niche favorite to a widely popular genre for collectors and enthusiasts, who prize their high-contrast sharpness and legibility. Even in an era of watchmaking when bolder and brighter colorways seem more dominant than ever, there is something about the black-and-white simplicity of pandas, and their mirror-image cousins, the so-called “reverse pandas” (white subdials on black dial), that still strike a chord. Here are 18 of our favorites. Dan Henry 1964 Chronograph Price: $300, Case Size: 38mm, Thickness: 12.9mm, Lug-to-Lug: 44.7mm, Lug Width: 19mm, Water Resistance: 50 meters, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Seiko VK63 Mechaquartz A longtime watch collector, and founder of the historical-watch website Timeline Watch, Dan Henry established his eponymous watch brand in 2016, inspired by his extensive collection of vintage pieces to produce contemporary watches with recognizably retro design language. Each Dan Henry watch model is limited and numbered, and named after the year from which it draws its main aesthetic influence. The mechaquartz-powered 1964 Gran Turismo Chronograph brings to mind iconic racing watches born in the ‘60s like the Heuer Carrera and Rolex Daytona, and Dan Henry makes it in both 36mm and 38mm case sizes, with either a two- or three-register dial design, with o...
Time+Tide
Featuring a rugged titanium case and either a mecaquartz or automatic movement (plus lots of other customisable options), this Kiwi chrono has a South African soul.The post The Draken Kruger V2 is the perfect lightweight tactical chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
While it’s pleasing to see, wear or use something familiar, to some it’s not enough. Venturing beyond the beaten track, there’s ample joy to be found in things that break the mould, rewrite the rulebook, or throw it out altogether. This can be applied to the ever-popular mechanical chronograph watch, which usually has a bi- […]
Fratello
Sunday morning! Time for a cup of coffee and another Sunday Morning Showdown. This week, Mike and Jorg go head-to-head in a battle of the titanium high-beat chronographs. Mike’s pick this week is the titanium Grand Seiko Tentagraph. The first blue dial model was released in 2023 and got a follow-up this year. However, the […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Zenith Chronomaster Sport Vs. Grand Seiko Tentagraph to read the full article.
Hodinkee
All that and more in this week's edition of Hodinkee's What's Selling Where column.
Time+Tide
Offering acres of blue on one's wrist, this commemorative Zenith chronograph is a ceramic tour de force.The post This Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph in blue ceramic is electric appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
TAG Heuer's most recognisable watch has had a fascinating history, but which examples of it rank as the best?The post The iconic (TAG) Heuer Monaco and 7 of its best limited edition references appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Cosmically speaking, 150 years might not be a very long time, but in the relatively young scale of recorded human history, it’s a mighty long while indeed. Airplanes, space travel, personal computers, microchips, sliced bread, washing machines, and the Internet were all invented within the past 150 years or so, making it even more impressive when a brand reaches the same level of longevity. This year, Bulova has done just that. To celebrate their sesquicentennial, the American watchmaker has a new release based on an icon of their past: the Lunar Pilot Timascus. The new release calls back to the original watch of the same name-the Lunar Pilot Chronograph-which was created in 1971 and ultimately worn on the moon. In the futuristic year of 2025, Bulova has teamed up with Brazilian artist Thiago Rosinhole to put his signature astronaut character “Budii” on the new Lunar Pilot, furthering the space-faring theme and giving the watch a touch of quirky character on top of historical heritage. Still, the new Lunar Pilot leans less on the use of the character (who I was admittedly unfamiliar with until the collaboration announcement) and more on a creative use of color to spice up the classic chronograph style seen on other Lunar Pilot models throughout the brand’s history and current lineup. Nestled within a stainless steel case that measures 43.5mm in diameter is the “tiamscus” dial. If you, like me, were wondering what that means, it’s actually a fairly strai...
Fratello
There is just something inherently different about a Rolex Day-Date. Putting the brand’s top-of-the-line model on your wrist isn’t quite like wearing a gold Daytona or GMT-Master. Why? The obvious answer would be that it’s not a sports watch like the other two. But that’s too easy. The true answer has more to do with […] Visit Hands-On With The Majestic Everose Gold Rolex Day-Date 36 With An Olive Green Dial to read the full article.
Fratello
A couple of weeks ago, we discussed what we considered some of the best watches of 2025 overall. We realized that chronographs were somewhat underrepresented in that episode and couldn’t let that fly. Today on Fratello Talks, we’re discussing the best chronographs of 2025 (so far). You join Nacho, RJ, and Thomas in the studio, […] Visit Fratello Talks: The Best Chronographs Of 2025 (So Far) to read the full article.
Teddy Baldassarre
Watches with mechaquartz movements are a small but quietly growing niche within the industry, particularly in the ambitious, creative, and extremely budget-conscious world of small independent watchmaking. Watchmakers have discovered that these “hybrid” movements, which offer quartz-level accuracy along with a dose of mechanical appeal, can often provide the opportunity to make chronograph watches that entice watch enthusiasts while still maintaining the affordable price points that keep their brands competitive. But what is a mechaquartz movement, exactly, and what watch brands are currently offering the most interesting examples of this technology? Read on. What is a MechaQuartz Movement? In a nutshell, mechaquartz (which various brands and other sources have also spelled mecaquartz, meca-quartz, or mecha-quartz) refers to a chronograph movement that combines a battery-powered quartz crystal oscillator for the main timekeeping (i.e., the hours, minutes, and running seconds) with a mechanical module for the stopwatch functions. The latter element ensures that the chronograph seconds hand sweeps smoothly over the dial, as in a fully automatic watch, rather than in short jumps, as it would operate in a fully quartz one, and that the seconds hand will snap back instantly to zero at the end of a time measurement. A mecaquartz movement is often referred to as a hybrid movement, but it’s not a hybrid in the same technical sense as, say, Seiko’s Spring Drive calibers, ...
Teddy Baldassarre
The Omega Speedmaster is a strange watch. Omega’s most iconic chronograph enjoys an enviable history that has made it a household name, and instantly recognizable to even the most casual of enthusiasts. It has aged gracefully, changing surprisingly little since its introduction in 1957, which has no doubt buoyed its status as a bona fide icon. Along with, you know, landing on the moon and all that. But digging just a little bit deeper than the Moonwatch Professional reveals a mother lode of Speedmaster references of all shapes, sizes, and colors. Getting a grasp on the full lineage of the Speedmaster is daunting, and it’s something that we plan on breaking down in layman's terms in the near future, but it’s important to understand how these older (and at times obscure) references inform Omega’s latest and greatest releases. Of course, I am talking about the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch with a white dial. The newest Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional, released earlier this year, is the first regular-production steel Moonwatch to receive a white dial. There have been plenty of other Speedmasters to feature a white dial - from recent limited-edition Snoopy references, to the famed Alaska Project watches that originated in 1969 (and were seen again in a reissue from 2008) - so it’s not an entirely new look for the Moonwatch. This new variation is a bit different and, to my eye, draws inspiration from a different reference in the back catalog: the so-called Albino ...
SJX Watches
Urban Jürgensen made its comeback earlier this year with an impressive line-up that includes the flagship UJ-1 Tourbillon. Much of the credit for the brand’s watches and watchmaking goes to Kari Voutilainen. Mr Voutilainen has imbued Urban Jürgensen’s watches with the high standards of quality synonymous with his own brand, resulting in watches that are equally exquisitely craft and steeply priced, but arguably worth it. Though best known for his eponymous brand, Mr Voutilainen is also co-chief executive of Urban Jürgensen (and also a minority shareholder). His fellow steward of the Danish marque that is now headquartered in Bienne, Switzerland, is Alex Rosenfield. While Mr Voutilainen is in charge of watchmaking, Mr Rosenfield leads marketing and branding. From left: Kari Voutilainen, Andrew Rosenfield, and Alex Rosenfield. Image – Urban Jürgensen Given the opportunity to speak at length with Mr Voutilainen, I could not refuse. We discussed the true nature of artisanal work, ranging from movement decoration to guilloche, the details of Urban Jürgensen’s movements, and more. You can find his insightful answers below. But interestingly, my conversation with Mr Voutilainen reminded me of the first time I met him, which was at Baselworld 2006 when he launched the Masterpiece Chronograph (with a special hairspring from what turned out to be a questionable supplier). Even two decades ago, well before he was famous, Mr Voutilainen was passionate about the same thing...
Fratello
I bought my first Omega Speedmaster Professional in 1999. This is also when my Speedy collecting officially began. During those 25 years of buying (and selling) Speedmaster watches, I made my fair share of mistakes. This was mainly because, back then, there wasn’t as much information available as there is today. But I also made […] Visit Five Mistakes I Made While Collecting Omega Speedmasters (And How To Avoid Them) to read the full article.
Fratello
The greatest watch story ever told is the story of the Omega Speedmaster, the first watch worn on the Moon. That’s a fact. Another fact is that luxury in general is not about selling products. Rather, it is about emotion. That certainly is the case with post-Quartz Crisis luxury watches. The key to successfully selling […] Visit Does Storytelling Still Sell Watches In 2025? to read the full article.
Monochrome
Back in 1972, Porsche Design introduced the Chronograph I, the first all-black watch inspired by Porsche cockpit gauges. By 1975, the design evolved into brushed stainless steel. This year, to mark the brand´s retail partnership with the Watches of Switzerland Group, the new Porsche Design Chronograph 1 – 1975 Limited Edition swaps steel for bare, […]
Worn & Wound
There’s almost nothing you can say to convince me the latest MoonSwatch, the not so elegantly named Mission to Earthphase Moonshine Gold, is not the product of a ChatGPT prompt entered by a Swatch exec. Maybe it said “What should the next entry in our never ending profit squeezing machine that is the MoonSwatch collection be called?” I can imagine an artificial intelligence suggesting something as silly, and also reminding the good people at Swatch that blue, and gold, and Snoopy are all very critical design characteristics that should be included. Honestly, I hope AI is the culprit. I’d hate to think that human beings at a brand that I hold in such high regard are responsible for such a shallow mismatch of buzzwords and incoherent thematic elements. Let’s take stock of what we’re looking at here. This is a Bioceramic, quartz MoonSwatch much like all the others. It follows the original Earthphase model from last year and includes not just a moonphase complication, but an “Earthphase” that depicts the “phase” of the earth as seen from the moon. Useful? No. Whimsical? Perhaps. There are a lot of little details though that are a bit of a grab bag of prior elements of MoonSwatches and Speedmasters of the past. Most notably, Snoopy and Woodstock are depicted right on the dial, watching the cosmic dance play out in front of them. The moons on the moonphase indicator are MoonShine gold plated. The graphical inspiration for the moonphase complication is the...
Fratello
Back in March 2022, the watch world experienced something rarely seen - a global frenzy, not over a mechanical masterpiece or a limited-edition grail but, instead, a battery-powered, (Bioceramic) plastic-bodied chronograph. The original Omega × Swatch MoonSwatch collection dropped without much warning, causing scenes that rivaled those of sneaker releases. People queued overnight outside Swatch […] Visit Introducing: The MoonSwatch Mission to Earthphase – Moonshine Gold to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Happy first weekend of August, and welcome to another new release summary! Would that make it a “summery” summary? Bad alliterative jokes aside, we’ve seen some exciting new pieces from big-name watchmakers and microbrands alike. Rounding out this release list are a colorful new IWC Top Gun collab, a Jaeger-LeCoulture that shoots for the stars, a meteoric Bremont with lofty aspirations, and a Minase that brings a little winter chill to the summer sun. Read on, and let us know if there is a new release that you think we missed out on in the comments! IWC Schaffhausen Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 Top Gun Miramar Far from their first Top Gun release, IWC’s new chronograph may not seem that exciting at first glance. But the new Miramar edition has a secret weapon: a Pantone hue of the same name. Other Top Gun IWCs have been made available in shades of black, gray, and beige, which although appropriate for the military-theme, aren’t terribly exciting from a color perspective. The Miramar, then, stands out with its unapologetically cheery blue, inspired by the light blue t-shirts worn by TOPGUN flight instructors under their flight suits. It’s not just the color that gives the Miramar an edge, though. Design-wise, the left-leaning subdials at the 12, 6, and 9 o’clock positions, balanced out by the dual date and day windows, provide for a handsomely readable aesthetic. The typeface is characteristic of other IWC Top Gun watches, with rounded sans serif numeral...
Quill & Pad
If there were a watch enthusiasts’ encyclopedia, under “embarrassment of riches” the image might just be a side-by-side shot two of contemporary watchmaking’s great complicated pieces: the “mighty” A. Lange & Söhne Double Split and Patek Philippe’s Reference 5370P split-second chronograph.
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