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Chronograph Watches · Page 64

Patek Philippe Cubitus Teddy Baldassarre
Oct 17, 2024

Patek Philippe Cubitus

The Stern family has been at the helm of Patek Philippe since the 1930s, and for all intents and purposes the family has been responsible for – or, at the very least, overseen – just about every notable iconic release from the brand in the modern wristwatch age. Sure, split-seconds chronographs and the first Patek perpetual calendar wristwatch pre-date the Stern legacy, but when it comes to pure iconography across known collections spanning the Calatrava, the Nautilus, the Ellipse, and the Aquanaut – names that make boutiques quiver at the notion of adding yet another name to a medieval scroll’s worth of a waitlist – we can all thank generations of the Stern family. And now we can add the Patek Philippe Cubitus to that list. Brothers Jean and Charles Henri Stern invested in Patek in 1932 and were tangentially a part of the brand when the first Calatrava launched. Henri Stern oversaw the development and release of the Ellipse, followed by a watch that has come to define the brand by the general salivating public: the Nautilus (though the ultra-thin Ref. 3940 is just as deserving of praise). Philippe Stern took over in 1993, and it was under his stewardship that Patek followed up on the Gérald Genta-designed Nautilus with a new take on the format: The Aquanaut. Patek loves to delight and surprise, and so, for a deeper look at Patek launches over the years, read Mark Bernardo’s piece here. You might be thinking to yourself that a whole host of watches are missin...

#TBT The Unobtanium Gallet Multichron 12 Decimal Chronograph Fratello
Oct 17, 2024

#TBT The Unobtanium Gallet Multichron 12 Decimal Chronograph

The Gallet Multichron 12 Decimal is as rare as a hen’s teeth, with only three examples known before this one. Watch purists may not accept this one because I managed to put it together from old parts. Still, everything is genuine and correct for the period. First, I encourage you to read Mike’s eight-year-old story […] Visit #TBT The Unobtanium Gallet Multichron 12 Decimal Chronograph to read the full article.

First Look – The New Albishorn Type 10 Chronograph, The Imaginary Ancestor of the Type 20 Monochrome
Oct 17, 2024

First Look – The New Albishorn Type 10 Chronograph, The Imaginary Ancestor of the Type 20

What if…? This simple statement could easily summarize what Albishorn‘s founder Sébastien Chaulmontet wants to achieve with the brand, or “Imaginary Vintage” watches as he likes to call it. Things started with the appealing Maxigraph, or what a modern regatta chronograph would have looked like in the 1930s. Now, Albishorn takes flight, and Chaulmontet creates […]

Albishorn Introduces the Type 10 Chronograph SJX Watches
Oct 17, 2024

Albishorn Introduces the Type 10 Chronograph

Less than two months have elapsed since Albishorn made its debut, but the brainchild of Sébastien Chaulmontet is back with the Type 10, an “imaginary vintage” prequel to the Type 20 pilot’s watch made famous by Breguet. Available with black or green textured dials, the Type 10 features a proprietary manually wound monopusher chronograph movement with an unusual layout that differentiates it from other Type 20-inspired watches. Though not a limited edition, the Type 10 will be produced in small batches of just 25 watches in each livery. Initial thoughts Conceptually, I like the idea of “imaginary vintage” – the brand’s tagline – because it liberates the design from the constraints of the past and avoids coming off as a copy or homage. While I don’t like every detail of the Type 10, there’s a lot to be excited about, especially as a preview of what might be coming next from the fledgling brand. The Type 10 is powered by the proprietary ALB02 M, a manually wound chronograph movement that, like the Maxigraph, shares some of the architecture of the ubiquitous Valjoux 7750. But to call this a cal. 7750 would be to miss the numerous refinements implemented by Dr Chaulmontet that result in a slimmer movement with, reportedly, a more pleasant pusher action. The Type 10 retains many of the best features of the Maxigraph, including its case. Interestingly, the case is not quite identical; the Type 10’s case is slightly thinner on account of its manually wound ...

H. Moser & Cie. Debuts Entry-Level Chronograph with Massena Lab SJX Watches
Oct 17, 2024

H. Moser & Cie. Debuts Entry-Level Chronograph with Massena Lab

Continuing with affordable complications, H. Moser & Cie.’s latest is the Endeavour Chronograph Compax, a collaboration with Massena Lab. The most affordable Moser chronograph, the new Endeavour is powered by an in-house calibre with an added chronograph module. Loosely based on Moser’s 1940s pocket watch chronographs, the Endeavour Chronograph has a “Compax” layout with twin registers, luminous Arabic numerals, and a historical Moser logo. Though the retro design is atypical for Moser, the dial and case are still in classic Moser style, with the dial sporting a “funky blue” gradient finish. Initial thoughts Vintage reissues are common but Moser does them sparingly, mostly sticking with its signature minimalist, contemporary designs. The Endeavour Chronograph is the brand’s first vintage-inspired release outside of its Heritage collection. The Endeavour Chronograph is executed well, and affordable for a Moser chronograph. It costs less than half the Streamliner chronograph that’s equipped with the innovative Agenhor calibre. Because of the entry-level pricing, h0wever, the Endeavour Chronograph is constrained in certain ways, most notably in terms of the movement. Though the base calibre is Moser’s in-house automatic, the chronograph comes via a Dubois-Depraz module. It’s still a competent technical solution, but not as sophisticated as an integrated chronograph (and an in-house integrated construction would not be CHF25,000). Vintage styling The Endeav...

The Latest Massena LAB Collaboration is a Rare Heritage Inspired Moser Worn & Wound
Oct 16, 2024

The Latest Massena LAB Collaboration is a Rare Heritage Inspired Moser

If you’ve been paying any attention to H. Moser & Cie. over the last few years, one thing should be abundantly clear - the Swiss watchmaker likes to keep things simple. While they may occasionally indulge themselves with an overwhelming quantity of dial text, or acquiesce to the need for a chronograph scale, Moser has increasingly adopted a minimalist approach in their watch design, with wide open expanses of dial and invisible logos taking center stage alongside hammered enamel finishes, minute repeater strikers, and elegantly finished hands.  Today, Moser is throwing all that out, and, in partnership with Massena LAB, the brand is looking back to its history for what is, in many ways, its most traditional release in years. The Endeavour Chronograph Compax would, from anyone else, barely qualify as newsworthy. After all, what brand hasn’t dipped back into the well to create a historically-minded steel sports watch in recent years? Moser hasn’t, and that’s what makes this collaboration so interesting. Even the Heritage model, the closest the brand has come to the format, isn’t so much a recreation as a reimagination, a consideration not of how to make an old watch feel new, but a thought exercise in what H. Moser & Cie. might have made were the modern brand to find themselves in a different era. This new watch is not that. Though not a direct reproduction of any particular model, the new Endeavour Chronograph Compax is a genuine reflection on Moser’s history...

Introducing – The Racetrack-Ready Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie Crossroads Monochrome
Oct 16, 2024

Introducing – The Racetrack-Ready Czapek Faubourg de Cracovie Crossroads

Launched in 2018, the Faubourg de Cracovie was Czapek’s third model and first chronograph, powered by Vaucher’s sophisticated high-frequency column-wheel movement. Maintaining the brand’s spirit of modern classicism, the 41.5mm chronograph defied the canon of most sporty stopwatches by flaunting traditional guilloché dials. This autumn, Czapek releases two iterations of its chronograph with a racing-style […]

Wearing The Ninth Art On The Wrist: The Raymond Weil Millesime Chronograph Limited Edition Largo Winch Fratello
Oct 15, 2024

Wearing The Ninth Art On The Wrist: The Raymond Weil Millesime Chronograph Limited Edition Largo Winch

Raymond Weil struck gold with the Millesime, a vintage-inspired watch that won a GPHG award. Belgian comics artist Philippe Francq (1961) also received praise and awards with his Largo Winch series of comic books. The titular character, a Yugoslavian adventurer whose birth name was Largo Winczlav, first appeared in 1990. Since then, 24 graphic novels […] Visit Wearing The Ninth Art On The Wrist: The Raymond Weil Millesime Chronograph Limited Edition Largo Winch to read the full article.

Hands-On With The New Black And Multicolor Yema × Alain Silberstein Marine Limited Edition Fratello
Oct 14, 2024

Hands-On With The New Black And Multicolor Yema × Alain Silberstein Marine Limited Edition

When you think of Yema watches, you probably think of vintage-inspired divers, chronographs, and GMTs. But put all your preconceived notions aside for a moment because this new watch is something else. In collaboration with artist and watchmaker Alain Silberstein, the French brand introduces the Marine. It’s a limited edition of 500 pieces that doesn’t […] Visit Hands-On With The New Black And Multicolor Yema × Alain Silberstein Marine Limited Edition to read the full article.

In-Depth: Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch with White Lacquer Dial SJX Watches
Oct 14, 2024

In-Depth: Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch with White Lacquer Dial

In late 2023, a then-unknown Moonwatch with a white dial was seen on the wrist of actor Daniel Craig. The mysterious watch turned out to be the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch with a “lacquered white dial” that was officially unveiled in March 2024. Notably, it was released a regular production, instead of limited edition. An iconic design, the Omega Speedmaster Professional is best known as the Moonwatch with the classic black dial. The model’s relative ubiquity – the Speedmaster has been in production for nearly seven decades – makes dial variants compelling (but also numerous, often as limited editions) as a refreshing alternative to the quintessential black dial. Initial Impressions The subject of significant attention on social media when it first emerged on Mr Craig’s wrist, the new Moonwatch is a surprising release that goes beyond a cosmetic tweak of dial colour. It sports tangible differences to the dial furnishing that provide a sense of refinement over the regular black dial, namely the lacquered finishing and applied indices. And even though the dial is recognisably different, and arguably improved in terms of details, it retains the signature elements of the classic Moonwatch, including the stepped construction. Beyond that, the rest of the watch is identical to the standard Moonwatch with black dial, which isn’t a bad thing because the “standard” model is now in its latest generation. The classic Moonwatch was revamped in 2021 with subtle yet pe...

Hands-On With The New Series Of Titanium Fortis Vagabond V-40 GMTs Fratello
Oct 13, 2024

Hands-On With The New Series Of Titanium Fortis Vagabond V-40 GMTs

When you think of Fortis watches, the first that comes to mind is probably the famous Cosmonaut’s Chronograph. I would agree with that. But if we create a wider context, I would say that the Fortis catalog can be defined by its wide selection of sturdy and modern-looking tool watches. From the Marinemaster to the […] Visit Hands-On With The New Series Of Titanium Fortis Vagabond V-40 GMTs to read the full article.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Speedmaster FOiS Gen. 1 Vs. FOiS Gen. 2 Fratello
Oct 13, 2024

Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Speedmaster FOiS Gen. 1 Vs. FOiS Gen. 2

It’s Sunday morning, and you all know what that means. Yes, it’s time for a cup of coffee and another installment of Sunday Morning Showdown! This week’s battle is all about the First Omega in Space. The big question is: which one do you like better? Jorg will make a case for the first-generation Speedmaster […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Speedmaster FOiS Gen. 1 Vs. FOiS Gen. 2 to read the full article.

Hands-On With A Lightweight: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Ti49 Fratello
Oct 12, 2024

Hands-On With A Lightweight: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Ti49

Girard-Perregaux has a history spanning over two centuries, and longevity justifies calling the brand a heavyweight watchmaker. “GP” might be in the shadow of “AP” and “VC,” but it more than deserves a light shining on it. There’s a long history of remarkable and unique complications, like the tourbillon with three gold bridges, and then […] Visit Hands-On With A Lightweight: The Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Ti49 to read the full article.

Fratello’s Top 5 Modern Speedmasters With Straight Lugs Fratello
Oct 11, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Modern Speedmasters With Straight Lugs

Another Friday, another list! Last week, we explored five of the many vintage Tudor options out there. For this week, we decided to dip our toes into the extensive world of Omega Speedmasters. Of course, we have our series of Speedy Tuesday articles to explain everything there is to know about the famous chronograph. But […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Modern Speedmasters With Straight Lugs to read the full article.

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