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Chronograph Watches · Page 68

Fratello’s Top 5 Classic Valjoux 72-Powered Watches - Featuring Rolex, Enicar, Breitling, And More Fratello
Sep 20, 2024

Fratello’s Top 5 Classic Valjoux 72-Powered Watches - Featuring Rolex, Enicar, Breitling, And More

Another Friday, another list! This week, we continue our exploration of legendary movements. For this list, we have selected five classics with the famous Valjoux 72. As you will see, this chronograph caliber powered some of the most legendary watches that horology fans love. That’s why creating a list of the five standout Valjoux 72-powered […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Classic Valjoux 72-Powered Watches - Featuring Rolex, Enicar, Breitling, And More to read the full article.

Hands-On: The New Aquastar Airstar Chronograph Fratello
Sep 20, 2024

Hands-On: The New Aquastar Airstar Chronograph

I confess that I look forward to anything Rick Marei and his team create. Recent offerings from Aquastar and Synchron have all been exciting, well made, and relatively affordable. Now the new Aquastar Airstar Chronograph further ups the approachability ante. This is certainly one of the cooler recent releases. There are a lot of ’60s […] Visit Hands-On: The New Aquastar Airstar Chronograph to read the full article.

Introducing – AP Unveils Chroma Forged Technology, a Coloured & Lumed Forged Carbon for the ROC Split-Seconds Monochrome
Sep 20, 2024

Introducing – AP Unveils Chroma Forged Technology, a Coloured & Lumed Forged Carbon for the ROC Split-Seconds

With its ultra-contemporary design, the Royal Oak Concept collection has always been a vessel for innovation at AP, and that since its creation in 2002. First with a cobalt-based super-alloy (Alacrite 602), the Audemars Piguet ROC collection has used some of the brand’s most complex movements, daring designs or advanced materials. Now, it’s time for […]

Audemars Piguet Returns to Forged Carbon with the Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds SJX Watches
Sep 20, 2024

Audemars Piguet Returns to Forged Carbon with the Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds

Having pioneered the use of carbon-fibre reinforced polymer for watches cases with the Royal Oak Offshore Alinghi Team of 2007, Audemars Piguet (AP) is returning with a new generation of the material that debuts in the Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT. Based on the original model in old-school titanium, the new split-seconds chronograph has a carbon composite case made using Chroma Forged Technology (CFT) that allows for greater colour and patterning in the material. As a result, the CFT carbon case has the typical marbled appearance of carbon composite, but flecked with blue veins that glow in the dark. Initial thoughts The Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT might seem like yet another variant of AP’s popular model, but it  is equipped with one of the brand’s latest movements, the cal. 4407. The movement boasts a modern, sophisticated construction, along with one of the most innovative implementations of the split-seconds mechanism in modern watchmaking. The CFT carbon case dresses up the movement in more eye-catching attire, especially for those who found the first version in titanium too conventional. Although the new split-seconds only includes blue as an accent, the range of colours is essentially limitless since CFT carbon can be coloured in myriad hues. That means more colour variations are surely in the pipeline. Though novel for AP, coloured or luminous carbon composite is not a new concept since the material been used for watch ca...

Introducing: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT Large Date Fratello
Sep 20, 2024

Introducing: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT Large Date

Today, we’ll look at the new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT Large Date. This is a wild piece, and it debuts an innovative case material that took over five years of development. Get ready for some bright visual stimulation! The Audemars Piguet Concept offerings are typically filled with new technology from the […] Visit Introducing: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Concept Split-Seconds Chronograph GMT Large Date to read the full article.

Introducing: The Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Boutique Edition Fratello
Sep 20, 2024

Introducing: The Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Boutique Edition

In January 2023, Zenith released the first Defy Skyline Boutique Edition. The release flew under the radar for most watch fans, but it was a stylish version of Zenith’s popular integrated-bracelet sports watch. Later that year, the brand unveiled a boutique-only version of the Defy Skyline Skeleton as well. Now it’s time for the third […] Visit Introducing: The Zenith Defy Skyline Chronograph Boutique Edition to read the full article.

Explained: The Vertical Clutch of a Chronograph SJX Watches
Sep 20, 2024

Explained: The Vertical Clutch of a Chronograph

Having already explained the more traditional horizontal clutch (or lateral coupling), we now look forward to the more modern vertical clutch. This is found in some of the most famous chronographs in contemporary watchmaking, including the Rolex Daytona with the cal. 4131 (pictured above), Patek Philippe Nautilus with the CH 28-520, and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph with the cal. 4401. Arguably the most advanced type of chronograph coupling mechanism, the vertical clutch as it is known today was debuted in 1969 by Seiko in the 6139 chronograph. But the concept can be found in late 19th century pocket watches, and even the inexpensive Pierce Chronographe of the 1930s. Today it is practically the default choice for new chronograph constructions. Equipped with the vertical clutch, the Patek Philippe CH 28-520 in the Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph ref. 5990/1A Like its horizontal counterpart, the vertical clutch serves as the mechanical link between the chronograph mechanism and the going train of a movement, allowing power to flow from the going train to the chronograph, which then allows the chronograph to run. While it fulfils the same function, a vertical clutch works differently from the horizontal equivalent, a distinction that comes with its own set of advantages and disadvantages. How it works A chronograph vertical clutch is similar to the clutch found in the manual transmission of some automobiles. The clutch of an automobile enables the intermittent connec...

The new Maurice Lacroix Aikon remixes titanium grades and dial colours Time+Tide
Sep 19, 2024

The new Maurice Lacroix Aikon remixes titanium grades and dial colours

Maurice Lacroix goes more sporty and more bold with brightly coloured Aikon models in titanium. Rather than just picking one grade, the cases are a mix of finishes and both grade 2 and grade 5 titanium. Both the Automatic and Chronograph are powered by Sellita-based movements, priced at US$2,950 and US$4,600, respectively.   View this … ContinuedThe post The new Maurice Lacroix Aikon remixes titanium grades and dial colours appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

#TBT A Colorful Airin Regatta Timer With An Impressive Valjoux 237 Movement Fratello
Sep 19, 2024

#TBT A Colorful Airin Regatta Timer With An Impressive Valjoux 237 Movement

A flyback countdown chronograph with a date at 9 o’clock and a 3Hz beat rate… A mic-drop meme would be enough now to introduce the seemingly unique Airin Regatta Chronograph that resurfaced in France. I have been following French graphic designer and watch collector David Renou, aka @Super.Compressor on Instagram, for quite some time now. […] Visit #TBT A Colorful Airin Regatta Timer With An Impressive Valjoux 237 Movement to read the full article.

TAG Heuer’s Latest Monaco in Racing Green SJX Watches
Sep 19, 2024

TAG Heuer’s Latest Monaco in Racing Green

Having become something of a tradition, TAG Heuer debuts a new Monaco chronograph just in time for the Formula 1 Singapore Grand Prix. Following last year’s edition in shades of grey, the 2024 edition is the Monaco Chronograph Racing Green. Equipped with the Sellita-derived Calibre 11, the new Monaco features chronograph registers in a dark green synonymous with motorsport, set against a clean silver dial. Initial thoughts Arguably TAG Heuer’s iconic chronograph, especially after Steve McQueen wore one in Le Mans, the Monaco gets new livery that embodies its racing heritage. The tricolour dial in green, silver, and yellow is dressed in classic motorsports colours. The titanium case is also a nice touch, instead of conventional steel. However, this Monaco is powered by the Sellita-derived and modular Calibre 11, instead of the in-house Heuer 02 that was found in last year’s equivalent Formula 1 edition. The rationale for the Calibre 11 is a logical one: it allows for an unorthodox nine o’clock crown that replicates the layout of the vintage Monaco, whereas the in-house calibre necessitates a conventional three o’clock position. But the new Monaco still costs CHF9,100, which is less than the models with the Heuer 02 but not that much less. As a result, it’s not as good a value proposition as its counterparts with the in-house calibre, though it is an appealing execution in terms of colours and materials. An old-school design The familiar square Monaco case is in...

Hands-On With The Titanium TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Racing Green Fratello
Sep 19, 2024

Hands-On With The Titanium TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Racing Green

I have a weird, ambivalent relationship with the TAG Heuer Monaco. While I am a great fan of its design and legacy, I am not a fan of the actual watch on my wrist. Or at least, I wasn’t. That’s why I was a little apprehensive when going into this hands-on review. The Monaco’s square […] Visit Hands-On With The Titanium TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Racing Green to read the full article.

Hands-On: the Xeric Artemis Chronograph Worn & Wound
Sep 18, 2024

Hands-On: the Xeric Artemis Chronograph

Picture this: You’re playing Thursday night trivia and the DJ asks which watch was first worn on the moon. The softball question generates bar-wide high fives as everyone celebrates their collective awareness of Buzz Aldrin’s Speedmaster that forever married watches and space travel into pop culture lore. Less than a year after we took our first small steps on the moon, the Apollo 13 mission sought a return to our celestial stomping grounds. Once again, a watch stole our collective attention, this time as part of the ill fated Apollo 13 mission. The world heard the phrase “Houston, we’ve had a problem here” and held its collective breadth as the safe return of three astronauts packed into a Lunar Module 200,000 miles from earth became dependant on their ability to precisely time a 14 second burn of the module’s thrusters – a task achieved with a NASA qualified Omega Speedmaster. John F. Kennedy famously declared that we choose to go to the moon not because it is easy, but because it is hard. While nothing about the nearly tragic Apollo 13 story makes this land-loving watch nerd want to get a closer view of the stars, others feel inspired to embody Kennedy’s words and to keep pushing farther… 586 times farther, to be exact. Kicking off this exciting new phase of space travel is NASA’s Artemis Program, which will bring a new generation of astronauts to the moon with new technology to be used on the quest for Mars. The Watch Watch collectors looking to cel...

Hands-on – The Glashütte Original SeaQ Chronograph and its Elegant “Silver Screen” Dial Monochrome
Sep 18, 2024

Hands-on – The Glashütte Original SeaQ Chronograph and its Elegant “Silver Screen” Dial

The SeaQ series, part of Glashütte Original’s Spezialist collection, made its debut in 2019, representing the German brand’s interpretation of the classic diver’s watch and drawing inspiration from the Glashütte Spezimatic Type RP TS 200, originally introduced at the end of the 1960s by the East German GUB (Glashütter Uhrenbetriebe). While the vintage Spezimatic models […]

Shining a Light on the A. Lange & Söhne Lumen Collection Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 18, 2024

Shining a Light on the A. Lange & Söhne Lumen Collection

When A. Lange & Söhne makes a contribution to watchmaking, whether in the areas of technology, design, materials, or any combination of these or other elements, it tends to go above and beyond the call - to challenge itself to reach a little higher, to put its own distinctly Saxon spin on things. This philosophy is evident particularly in the brand’s approach to complications: not just a moon-phase, but a moon-phase that’s accurate for more than a century. Not just a tourbillon, but the first tourbillon with a stop-seconds mechanism. Not just a split-seconds chronograph, but the first “triple split” chronograph to make comparative time measurements of not just seconds and minutes but multiple hours.  It was in that overachieving spirit, no doubt, that Lange developed its own signature illumination system for watch dials, rolling it out in 2010 on the second generation of the groundbreaking Zeitwerk model that it had introduced the year prior. The system, called “Lumen” and patented in 2013, illuminates not only dial elements like hands and indexes in the dark but also components normally hidden beneath the dial’s surface, like date disks and decorated plates, wheels and bridges. Lange’s technical solution to the challenge of charging all of the elements uniformly - luminous-treated surface details like hands, hour markers and subdials, as well as non-treated parts beneath the surface - was a dial made of sapphire and coated with a semi-transparent ...

Lunar Loveliness With The Louis Moinet Black Moon Limited Edition Fratello
Sep 17, 2024

Lunar Loveliness With The Louis Moinet Black Moon Limited Edition

When we think of Louis Moinet, chronographs come to mind. After all, the company’s namesake invented the complication in 1816. Today, though, we’ll look at a different level of functionality. The moonphase complication is also traditional, but the new Black Moon Limited Edition ushers a novel method of displaying the lunar cycle. Admittedly, a stodgy […] Visit Lunar Loveliness With The Louis Moinet Black Moon Limited Edition to read the full article.

The Latest Seiko Prospex Speedtimers are Here Worn & Wound
Sep 17, 2024

The Latest Seiko Prospex Speedtimers are Here

“In this world nothing can be said to be certain, except death and taxes.” It’s been 235 years since Ben Franklin wrote those words, and I think it’s fair to say he pretty much hit the nail on the head with them. That said, he lived in a different time, so I’d like to offer an update for 2024. “In this world nothing can be said to be certain, except death, taxes, and new Seikos.” Isn’t that better? For the last five years or so, Seiko has slowly been expanding its lineup of mechanical chronographs, and nowhere is this more apparent than in its line of automatic Prospex Speedtimers. Last year, we saw that line expand with the introduction of the 1970s-inspired SRQ047 and limited edition SRQ049. This year, Seiko is building on that model’s success with a fresh pair of reverse panda–dialed chronographs, the SRQ051 and SRQ053. The mechanical Prospex Speedtimer lineup is split into two distinct designs, a slightly dressier bi-register design somewhat reminiscent of the Hamilton Intra-Matic Chrono, though very much an interpretation of Seiko’s original chronograph, the 5719, and a tri-register layout with a sportier case. The SRQ051 and SRQ053 belong to the latter group and feel like the big brother to the immensely popular Solar Speedtimer chronographs we’ve seen iterated upon in the last few years. These latest Seiko chronographs are well-sized, measuring 42mm across, 14.6mm thick, and 49.5mm lug-to-lug. Having spent some time with last year’s models,...

Baltic Prismic Stone Dial Review Teddy Baldassarre
Sep 17, 2024

Baltic Prismic Stone Dial Review

I’ve been covering and getting to know the team at Baltic watches for about half a decade now, and in those five years I have watched the brand – with founder Etienne Malec at the helm – transform itself from “microbrand,” playing in the vintage-inspired sandbox, to venerable player in the game, full stop. Where we once heard the Baltic name and immediately thought of watches like the Aquascaphe or Bicompax chronograph, the intervening years have seen launches like the MR-01 micro-rotor model, and the Prismic (foreshadowing) with sprinkles of appearances at Only Watch thrown in for good measure. Returning to the Prismic, that watch debuted earlier this year and represented a venture into fresh territory for a company mostly known for producing tool watches (the MR-01 being the lone prior exception). So when I walked into the Beau-Rivage Hotel in Geneva, Switzerland during Watches & Wonders this year to say hello to my pals at Baltic, I expected to see the entire current catalog and get my hands on those Prismics which I did not yet get a chance to see in person.  Little did I know that they would have three surprises on hand… in April… nearly six months before they were et to be released. I am, of course, talking about the three new limited additions to the Prismic lineup which launched this week. They take the same case construction as the existing models – 36mm wide by 9.2mm tall – but pack a real punch by way of the dials. Where the standard Prismic ...

A Multi-Function Omega Seamaster Regatta for the America’s Cup SJX Watches
Sep 17, 2024

A Multi-Function Omega Seamaster Regatta for the America’s Cup

Having become the official timekeeper for the most prestigious event in yachting, Omega is a key partner at the 37th America’s Cup now taking place in Barcelona. The watchmaker has just unveiled the Seamaster Regatta America’s Cup, an analogue-digital sailor’s wristwatch. Unlike the earlier commemorative Seamaster Diver 300M, the Seamaster Regatta was conceived as a tool. In fact, it is descended from the Speedmaster X-33 of 1998 that was designed for astronauts. Like the X-33, the Seamaster Regatta is equipped with a quartz movement that combines analogue and digital displays in a multi-function package that includes a chronograph, sailing logbook, temperature gauge, accelerometer, and a regatta countdown. Initial thoughts The Seamaster Regatta is something of an anomaly in contemporary horology. It is a quartz-digital instrument that’s arguably purpose built for professional, yet carries a luxury watch price tag of over US$7,000, making it almost as expensive as the mechanical Seamaster 300M chronograph with an in-house movement. And the Seamaster Regatta stands out as one of the rare recent luxury watches that are quartz-digital, since the heyday of such timepieces was in the late 1990s (the comparable Breitling B-1 was launched in 1998 for instance). By the usual standards that watch enthusiasts use to judge a premium watch, the Seamaster Regatta feels expensive. Yet like the X-33 before it, the Seamaster Regatta appears to be an excellent tool. Moreover, it ...

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