Chronograph Watches · Page 72

Bring a Loupe: A Space-Worn Omega Speedmaster, A Heuer Carrera, And A CL Guinand Pocket Watch For The Olympic Club

All that and (one) more in this week's edition of Hodinkee's What's Selling Where column.

The Return of the Omega Speedmaster CK 2998

Omega Introduces the Second First Omega in Space

Any day that a new Speedmaster is introduced made out of a material other than Bioceramic is a good day. That’s one of the indisputable laws of watch media, and we’re seeing it play out right before our eyes with the release of the new First Omega in Space Speedmaster. This is, of course, the second First Omega in Space, following the discontinued first First Omega in Space, a tribute to the…first Omega in space, which happened to be a reference CK2998 Speedy on the wrist of astronaut Wally Schirra. That original FOiS release was a fan favorite Speedmaster for the entirety of its production run, which ended about four years ago.  The Speedmaster has developed a reputation with watch collectors as a classic that hasn’t changed a whole lot over the course of several decades of small iterations. While that’s certainly true when you look at the slow progression of the Speedy over the course of many years, the power of the FOiS was always in how it showed the clear contrasts between very early Speedmasters and the most modern examples in the catalog. Because of course there are changes from the Speedys of the 60s compared to those of today, and they really come through when you can view them side by side. The FOiS, as a vintage reissue, really made the most of this, offering a very clear alternative to collectors who might have a preference for vintage aesthetics but not want to actually own a vintage example of the watch.  The new First Omega in Space is very much ...

Introducing: The Omega 'First Omega In Space' Speedmaster Returns With A New Blue-Grey Dial

On the outside, it's a vintage CK2998, on the inside, it's pure modern Omega engineering.

Omega Launches New Speedmaster “First Omega in Space” With Cal. 3861

If you thought Omega had reached its limit with vintage Speedmaster reissues, think again. Meet the latest revival in the iconic line: the new Omega Speedmaster First Omega in Space Anniversary Series. Powered by the cutting-edge Co-Axial Master Chronometer caliber 3861, this release isn’t just about the movement-it's a nod to a bygone era, with a twist.

Omega Revives the Speedmaster “First Omega in Space” with Cal. 3861

Omega is reissuing the Speedmaster CK2998 with the Speedmaster “First Omega in Space” that’s powered by powered by the latest-generation Moonwatch movement, the Co-Axial Master Chronometer cal. 3861. But the “First Omega in Space” (FOIS) is also a keen-eyed remake of the original and sports a detail enthusiasts will appreciate: the stepped dial is a subtle grey-blue dial that replicates the unique colour found on certain vintage Speedmasters made in the 1960s. Initial thoughts Omega issues enough vintage-inspired Speedmaster models that even someone familiar with watches like myself is sometimes confused. For the uninitiated, the FOIS and Speedmaster 321 “Ed White” will look very similar, but for the enthusiasts the distinction is clear. That said, the FOIS is one of the most appealing recent Speedmasters. The attention to detail in design is obvious and impressive. Moreover it’s a vintage remake with a twist: the grey-blue dial is esoteric enough that it looks different, but still a detail that Speedmaster fans will appreciate. The faux-vintage lume is a bit too much, but from a design perspective it works as the parchment lume complements the grey-blue dial. Add to that Omega’s typically high quality and relatively affordable price – this is marginally less expensive than the Moonwatch cal. 3861 with a sapphire crystal – and the new FOIS is both compelling and good value. CK 2998 returns The second Speedmaster model after the CK2915, the CK2998 was ...

The second-generation Speedmaster First Omega in Space is back, with a few key differences

After being discontinued in 2020, the First Omega in Space is back and has a few tweaks which make it a true homage.The post The second-generation Speedmaster First Omega in Space is back, with a few key differences appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing – The New 2024 Speedmaster First Omega In Space, Returning in Vintage Shape

Without a doubt, one of the most iconic chronographs ever produced by the Swiss watchmaking industry is the Omega Speedmaster, born in 1957 (as part of a trilogy of Master watches). However, the Speedmaster shot to notoriety in 1969 when the watch landed on the Moon as part of the Apollo 11 mission – earning its title […]

Hands-On With The New 2024 Omega Speedmaster FOiS (First Omega in Space)

Almost four years ago, we announced that Omega was discontinuing the Speedmaster FOiS (First Omega in Space) model. The watch debuted in 2012 to commemorate the first Omega chronograph worn in space on the wrist of NASA astronaut Walter “Wally” Schirra during his Sigma 7 mission. The Speedmaster on Schirra’s wrist was a second-generation (CK2998) […] Visit Hands-On With The New 2024 Omega Speedmaster FOiS (First Omega in Space) to read the full article.

Apollo Astronaut Edgar Mitchell’s Space-Flown Rolex GMT-Master Comes Up For Auction

Let’s start with some perspective: fewer than 700 human beings have ever been to space. Of them, only 24 went to the Moon. And of those 24, only 12 set foot on its rocky surface. Edgar Mitchell was number six. Most wore NASA-issued Speedmasters, which are property of the US government and will not be […] Visit Apollo Astronaut Edgar Mitchell’s Space-Flown Rolex GMT-Master Comes Up For Auction to read the full article.

Insight: The Advantages of a Vertical Clutch Chronograph

The vertical clutch has become the de facto standard in modern chronograph movements thanks to its mechanical and practical benefits. The widespread and varied use of the vertical clutch is illustrated by the many recent movements that employ the mechanism, ranging from the Rolex Cosmograph Daytona to the Breitling B01 to the MB&F LM Sequential Evo. The proliferation of the vertical clutch is easily explained by its merits. Having explained the construction of a vertical clutch, we now turn to its advantages over the traditional horizontal clutch (or lateral coupling). Figure 1: A simplified cross section of a vertical clutch A vertical clutch serves to transfer energy from the going train of the movement to the chronograph going train, accomplishing this via a vertical motion. Figure 1 illustrates its key parts: a flywheel (yellow) geared to (or even part of) the going train; a cone (grey) that is linked to the chronograph seconds mobile, and vertically tensioned by a spring (red); a pair of pincers (blue) that engage with the cone, lifting or lowering the cone.  When the cone is raised and engaged with flywheel, the chronograph starts running, and when the cone drops and disengages, the chronograph stops. One of the most apparent advantage of the vertical clutch is the low kinetic friction generated during coupling and uncoupling of the chronograph, as friction is produced only by the sliding motion of the pincers and the vertical motion of the cone. The Rolex Cosmogra...

Lorca Unveils their Model No.2 Chronograph

Lorca, founded just about two years ago by New York City based watch enthusiast and recording artist Jesse Marchant, has unveiled their second watch. The new watch, the appropriately named Model No.2, is a follow up to the GMT we looked at in the early months of 2023, and subsequently developed a cult-like following among many discerning vintage watch aficionados. Lorca taps into something that is tough to put your finger on, but is nevertheless kind of obvious when you have one in hand. They could be vintage watches if you didn’t know any better – they are sized to feel like true mid century timepieces. But at the same time, they could really only be born out of the experiences of a present day collector and enthusiast, someone who cares about the little details enough to put them front and center on his idiosyncratic designs.  The Model No.2 is a chronograph that is immediately linked thematically with the Model No.1 GMT thanks to its vintage inspired size (it measures 37mm) and ornate details. It’s a sports watch, for sure, but it veers strongly toward the elegant end of the spectrum. This does not feel like a “tool watch” to me at all, in spite of its rather robust properties that are, frankly, fairly standard these days with any modern watch, no matter the style.  The design cue that will likely stand out most prominently to those who encounter the Model No.2 is the bezel, which has a guilloche pattern consisting of very fine straight lines engraved in som...

My 25 Years Of Owning The Omega Speedmaster Professional

On this very day, October 1st, 25 years ago, I bought my first Omega Speedmaster watch. I was a student at the time and obsessed with watches, specifically, Omega Speedmasters. My first purchase was a Speedmaster 145.012 with caliber 321. One evening, I was cycling in the city center of The Hague and passed a […] Visit My 25 Years Of Owning The Omega Speedmaster Professional to read the full article.

The Certina DS-7 Chrono gets an automatic movement and a padel inspired dial

With subtle nods to padel with its grid dial texture, the new DS-7 Chrono Auto from Certina is a great all-around entry-level chronograph.The post The Certina DS-7 Chrono gets an automatic movement and a padel inspired dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

First Look – The New Ice-Blue, Europe-Only Seiko Presage Style60’s SRPL19

Released in 2021, the Presage Style60’s was positioned as Seiko‘s vision of a casual, all-rounder-oriented and vintage-inspired watch. Far from the classism of the Craftsmanship Series or the funky colours of the Cocktail models, this collection was loosely based on the 1964 Crown watch, Japan’s first wrist chronograph – hence the sporty touch of this […]

Revival-Brand Edouard Koehn Debuts Split-Seconds Chronograph

A dormant name recently revived, Edouard Koehn was once famous for its high-quality pocket watches, usually signed “Ed. Koehn”, one of which inspired the Legacy Rattrapante Split-Seconds Chronograph. Powered by an automatic calibre made by Concepto, the Legacy Rattrapante has a fired enamel dial inside a stainless steel case. Initial thoughts Though it was resurrected only a short while ago, Edouard Koehn has put out a variety of watches, ranging from chunky sports watches to world-timers. The Legacy Rattrapante is its most classical design to date. The styling essentially replicates a vintage pocket watch, so it’s not imaginative, but the functional simplicity is appealing. But because the watch employs a Concepto calibre, it is thick at 14.6 mm high, which is at odds with the vintage-inspired design. And the Legacy Rattrapante is also pricey at almost CHF16,000, or about US$19,000. Though the fired enamel dial is an expensive bonus, it still costs double the Habring² Doppel, which has a more sophisticated movement for almost half the price. Pocket watch style Born in Germany, Edouard Koehn (1839-1908) was a watchmaker who worked at Patek Philippe before establishing his own brand in Geneva that produced watches signed “Ed. Koehn” as well as under the brand name, H.R. Ekegren, a Danish brand he acquired. Koehn’s son, also named Edouard, inherited the firm, which went bust during the Great Depression. Several years ago, the Edouard Koehn trademark was acquir...

Introducing the Louis Erard 2300 Sport Chronograph

When I think of Louis Erard, two things tend to spring to mind: regulators and collaborations. As a brand, they have mastered each of these, and they have contributed to some of my favorite releases in recent years (the brand’s whimsical collaborations with Alain Silberstein spring to mind as a high watermark). The consequence of this success is it can be easy to ignore the other things Louis Erard does well. With the new Louis Erard 2300 Sport Chronograph, the brand is trying to remind us. When compared with mother-of-pearl dialed regulators, this latest trio of limited edition sports watches - each of which will be available in a “99-piece limited edition numbered in multiples of 3” - is a more down-the-middle release than we’re used to seeing from Louis Erard. But as one might expect from the brand, a closer look will reveal Louis Erard’s signature touch. On its surface, the 2300 Sport Chronograph is a fairly by-the-number Valjoux 7750-powered sports chronograph, with a large case (44mm across, 52.4mm lug-to-lug, and 15mm thick in well-finished Grade 5 Titanium) reminiscent of straight-lug Speedies and Carreras, a black ceramic bezel, and the very familiar 6-9-12 layout with day and date that most often accompanies the iconic movement. But the signature Louis Erard touch is there and, as with so many of their other watches, the magic here comes with the dial. When you take a moment to step back and think about it, chronograph dials - with their multiple ...

Unveiling The Lorca Model No.2 - A Connoisseur’s Chronograph

It’s been roughly 18 months since Lorca founder Jesse Marchant unveiled his debut watch. Praised by the press and enthusiasts alike, the Model No.1 GMT presented a unique take on a multi-time watch. Instead of following the typical GMT category codes, Marchant created a watch much more characterized by its overall vintage-inspired elements. The result […] Visit Unveiling The Lorca Model No.2 - A Connoisseur’s Chronograph to read the full article.

Four IWC Watches And Their Wearers Return Safely From Space

Four IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph Edition “Polaris Dawn” models in white ceramic with space-blue dials are back on Earth. Along with their wearers, they launched from NASA’s Kennedy Space Center in Florida at 05:23 EDT on September 10th, 2024. The four members of the crew and their watches safely splashed down off the coast of […] Visit Four IWC Watches And Their Wearers Return Safely From Space to read the full article.

Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph European Limited Edition In Green

Last year, TAG Heuer released two colorful versions of its 42mm Carrera Chronograph. Of course, the watches took inspiration from car racing. This year, the brand continues on the same track with a new limited edition that is only available in Europe. Although this one is also colorful, it’s a bit more toned down and […] Visit Introducing: The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph European Limited Edition In Green to read the full article.

Review: the new Norqain Independence Skeleton Chrono 42MM Limited Edition

Deployant reviews the latest Norqain Independence Skeleton Chrono 42MM Limited Edition! Here's our review on the Norqain's first skeletonized chronograph!

First Look – Certina Adds a Chronograph to its Integrated Sporty DS-7 Collection

Last year, Certina ventured into the popular 1970s-inspired integrated-bracelet sports watch category. In this space, fellow Swatch Group brand Tissot has made waves with its highly successful and accessible PRX series. While the 2023 Certina DS-7 Powermatic 80 models offer a simple time-and-date functionality, they bring a more contemporary, slimmer, and less angular design, setting […]

Hands-On With The Louis Moinet Speed Of Sound Chronograph

Today, we go hands-on with the Louis Moinet Speed of Sound chronograph. This is a stunning modern watch with a vintage heart. As we’ll see, the rare vintage movement has been modified functionally and cosmetically to offer a novel moonphase display. Credit is due to Louis Moinet for creating innovative ways of displaying traditional time-related […] Visit Hands-On With The Louis Moinet Speed Of Sound Chronograph to read the full article.

First Look – The New and Colourful Louis Erard 2300 Chronograph Sport in Titanium

The La Sportive collection of chronographs, a staple in Louis Erard‘s catalogue for several years, has been rebranded to reflect the brand’s forward-looking vision – now called the 2300 collection. The name also pays homage to the postal code of La-Chaux-de-Fonds, a watchmaking centre near Le Noirmont, where Louis Erard is based. To mark this […]