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Chronograph Watches · Page 86

5,967 articles · Page 86 of 249
Rolex Turn-o-Graph: What You Should Know About the Rolex Tool Watch th Teddy Baldassarre
Jun 14, 2024

Rolex Turn-o-Graph: What You Should Know About the Rolex Tool Watch th

From the beginning of 1953 to the end of 1954, Rolex had perhaps the most productive and impactful period that any watchmaker had ever managed in a two-year stretch. The Explorer, the gold standard of adventure-oriented luxury watches, debuted in the summer of 1953 and the first Submariner, the quintessential diver’s watch, was manufactured that same year. The Submariner’s public debut wasn’t until 1954 at the Basel Watch Fair, but it wasn’t the only trendsetting Rolex watch the Crown released that year: the other was the original GMT-Master, the dual-time travel watch against which all others are measured. Photo: Matthew Bain We all are familiar with the three iconic Oyster Perpetual timepieces above, but few may be aware that Rolex released another tool watch in 1953, whose production not only preceded that of the Submariner and GMT-Master but whose signature design feature influenced the look of both. That watch is the Rolex Turn-o-Graph, the first serially produced Rolex tool watch equipped with a rotating bezel that could be used for timing intervals. (To be thorough, it should be noted that it was not the very first Rolex watch with such a feature: the Zerographe Ref. 3346, made way back in 1937, takes that honor, along with the distinction of being the first Rolex watch with a movement made in-house -  with a flyback chronograph, no less. The rarest of unicorns, the Zerographe (below) is nearly forgotten today, rarely mentioned in official Rolex literatur...
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De Bethune Launches Two New DB Eight References Worn & Wound
Jun 14, 2024

De Bethune Launches Two New DB Eight References

A little over a year on from the release of the DB Eight, De Bethune is following up the mono-usher chronograph with two new variants, each in gold, and each of which offers a welcome look back at the early days of the brand.  De Bethune is a brand well-versed in the avant-garde. The name alone tends to conjure images of remarkably blue tourbillons with spring-loaded lugs, and other sci-fi-esque watches. In the last few years, De Bethune has become well known for pushing the boundaries of watchmaking in both a technical and aesthetic sense - they even sent a watch to (near) space on the wrist of Michael Strahan. If you’re only familiar with De Bethune thanks to watches like the DB28 Kind of Blue Tourbillon or the DB28GS Yellow Submarine, looking back at the early days of De Bethune might come with a bit of a surprise. Early De Bethunes stood out not because of any outrageous architecture or wild case finishing, but rather thanks to a refined - and very traditional - look, backed up by the technical prowess of Denis Flageollet, the brand’s founder. The DB8 was one of these early, very traditional watches. Though still identifiable as a De Bethune thanks to its bullet lugs and three-part case, the DB8 was (in most senses) a very traditional take on the concept of a mono-pusher chronograph dress watch. The new DB Eight is a fitting follow up to that watch, holding on to much of the original’s concept and charm, but with each and every detail refined and update...
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Introducing: The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph In Lamborghini Squadra Corse Green Fratello
Jun 14, 2024

Introducing: The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph In Lamborghini Squadra Corse Green

There’s a new “hyperwatch” on the starting grid. It’s the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph in Verde Mantis. This energetic green hue also dominates the livery of the SC63, the first Lamborghini hybrid racing car prototype that will race in the 92nd 24 Hours of Le Mans this weekend. The car also competes in […] Visit Introducing: The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph In Lamborghini Squadra Corse Green to read the full article.
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Zenith Defy Revival A3648 Review Teddy Baldassarre
Jun 13, 2024

Zenith Defy Revival A3648 Review

There is no doubt that most enthusiasts think of the brand Zenith and picture, in their mind’s eye, a chronograph – a chronograph powered by the now storied El Primero automatic chronograph movement which debuted in 1969. Triple use of the word chronograph in one sentence notwithstanding, it punctuates the kind of watch associated with this powerhouse of a brand. And 1969 was a monumental year for automatic chronographs. But it was also the year Zenith introduced its punchy, ready for the 1970s, and decidedly orange dive watch: The Defy A3648. Yes, a Zenith diver was released the same year as the El Primero…and the latter clearly took off on a trajectory far different from that of its aquatic counterpart. Vintage Zenith A3648 from around the time of the watch's launch. Over the past decade or so, Zenith has proven itself to be unmatched in the watch game when it comes to revivals, homages, re-editions, whatever you like to call them (Zenith literally calls them “Revivals” so we will too). Some Zenith Revival models are modern riffs on vintage designs, with slight tweaks, while others are near 1:1 recreations. Think back to the Defy Revival models of the past two years, with both black and ruby dial options. Those were authentic recreations down to the vintage-style clasps (an under-looked component of homage, if you ask me!). At Watches & Wonders 2024, Zenith returned to the 1969 well and brought its spunky orange dive watch back to life in the form of the De...
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Introducing – New Colours and Materials for the Singer Reimagined 1969 Chrono and 1969 Timer Monochrome
Jun 13, 2024

Introducing – New Colours and Materials for the Singer Reimagined 1969 Chrono and 1969 Timer

Singer Reimagined, founded by Rob Dickinson of Singer Vehicle Design fame and Marco Borraccino, a watch designer, raced into the watch world with the Track 1, an incredible 1970s-inspired chronograph with a high-end movement designed by watch wizard Jean-Marc Wiederrecht (Agenhor). Capitalising on the profound ties between petrol heads and cog heads, Singer Reimagined is […]
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More MoonSwatch: Omega and Swatch Team Up Again for a “Mission on Earth” Worn & Wound
Jun 12, 2024

More MoonSwatch: Omega and Swatch Team Up Again for a “Mission on Earth”

There are only a few certainties in life: death, taxes, and new MoonSwatches being released every five or six months. Yes, as you’ve undoubtedly heard by now, Swatch and Omega have once again taken over your Instagram feed, knocking out three new versions of the MoonSwatch. This release follows a pair of Snoopy themed MoonSwatch moonphases, and of course the Blancpain x Swatch “Scuba” Fifty Fathoms. These new MoonSwatches hew closer to the original idea of the watch, but each is just a little extra, like guacamole on a burrito, which one of them kind of looks like if you squint.  The three watches seen here make up the MoonSwatch “Mission on Earth” series, and as the name would suggest are inspired by earthbound phenomena. The “Desert” variant has a tan BioCeramic case and taupe dial, with an aesthetic inspired by, well, the desert. Slightly more adventurous is the “Lava” MoonSwatch, with a bright red case and an orange chronograph seconds hand that pays homage to the Omega “Ultraman” Speedmaster. The third watch, and the best of the three in my opinion, is the “Polar Lights,” which features a turquoise case and a dial inspired by the aesthetic of aventurine.  As many readers will surely recall, I’m not the biggest fan of the MoonSwatch. What was once a charming idea and perhaps a way to get new enthusiasts into the hobby quickly became something of a money grab. A predictable result, no doubt. But now that there’s a regular cadence to these...
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Omega Unveils the MoonSwatch “Mission On Earth” Trio SJX Watches
Jun 12, 2024

Omega Unveils the MoonSwatch “Mission On Earth” Trio

Following the MoonSwatch “Snoopy” released in late March, Swatch continues to grow its bestselling line with the MoonSwatch “Mission On Earth”, a trio of models dressed in eye-catching colours, including one inspired by the Speedmaster “Ultraman” and another by aventurine glass. Initial thoughts The Mission On Earth editions stand out from the rest of the MoonSwatch line-up, especially the Polar Lights and Lava models. Unlike earlier MoonSwatch models in muted colours, Polar Lights features a “starry” blue dial modelled on sparkly aventurine glass, while Lava is a nod to the historical Speedmaster “Ultraman” with its orange hand. The new models continue to be priced at US$270, making them the same value proposition as earlier versions – they are affordable but feel equally inexpensive. The continual new additions to the line, however, will inevitably diminish the desirability of the MoonSwatch. While this might disappoint some early adopters, it is a logical step for Swatch, since the MoonSwatch has boosted its business tremendously, while the brand has no other product that enjoys comparable demand. Earthbound The Mission on Earth collection is made up of three watches. All are similar to earlier MoonSwatch models, but the new trio incorporate a detail Speedmaster enthusiasts will appreciate: radially arranged numerals on the sub-dials, as found on the experimental Speedmasters made for the Alaska II and III projects commissioned by NASA. Inspired by...
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Farer Relaunches the Popular Cobb and Seagrave Monopusher Chronographs, Now with GMT Functionality Worn & Wound
Jun 12, 2024

Farer Relaunches the Popular Cobb and Seagrave Monopusher Chronographs, Now with GMT Functionality

The latest release from Farer once again shows us that small brands are doing some of the most interesting things in the watch industry this year. Their new Monopusher GMT collection is no different, combining a popular travel complication with an old-school monopusher chronograph. With the rerelease of both the classic Cobb and Segrave monopushers, we’re seeing a new direction for the British brand that ups the proverbial ante on their line-up. Generally speaking, it’s fairly rare to see a watch that has both a chronograph and a GMT complication – and especially so for one to also have enough real estate to not look too jumbled. But that’s exactly what Farer was able to accomplish with these two new references. Using the classic Heuer Autavia GMT Ref. 1163 as its inspiration, Farer was able to take elements from this classic reference without veering into just reinventing the wheel. The distinct colorways of both Monopusher GMT models is what makes them so uniquely Farer. The color choices of both watches play into the brand’s identity and suit a wide range of customers’ preferences. The Seagrave, with its textured black dial, is on the more conservative side. The Cobb, by contrast, is a little more bold with a sky blue dial and yellow accents. The Segrave may be a bit more subdued, but it’s the small touches and tonal variations which show the amount of thought that has gone into the design. The black gravel dial is offset by blue minute markers and a pair ...
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Introducing: The Return Of The Farer Monopusher Chronograph Cobb And Segrave - Now With A GMT Function! Fratello
Jun 12, 2024

Introducing: The Return Of The Farer Monopusher Chronograph Cobb And Segrave - Now With A GMT Function!

I am one of those collectors who would eventually like to have a one-of-each collection. Rather than focusing on one brand, style, or complication, this feels like a great way to embrace watchmaking. The challenge lies in keeping to a sane budget as the complications increase. But with the Farer Monopusher Chronograph GMT Cobb and […] Visit Introducing: The Return Of The Farer Monopusher Chronograph Cobb And Segrave - Now With A GMT Function! to read the full article.
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Introducing – The Mido Multifort TV Big Date Tunes into a More Luxurious Channel Monochrome
Jun 12, 2024

Introducing – The Mido Multifort TV Big Date Tunes into a More Luxurious Channel

Mido’s decision to revisit some of its vintage models and update them with contemporary specs has resulted in some very attractive yet affordable pieces. Models like the 1960s-inspired Ocean Star Decompression Timer with its colourful dial, the 1930s-styled Patrimony Chronograph and the more recent Multifort TV Big Date are winning combinations of retro details and modern […]
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Three New MoonSwatch Mission On Earth Editions - Lava, Polar Lights, And Desert Fratello
Jun 11, 2024

Three New MoonSwatch Mission On Earth Editions - Lava, Polar Lights, And Desert

Following the two MoonSwatch Snoopy watches (here), Swatch introduces three new models based on Omega’s iconic Speedmaster design. The previous MoonSwatch introductions linked to Apollo 13’s Snoopy models from Omega, and the new MoonSwatch models pay tribute to the beauty of planet Earth. Three new models will go on sale at Swatch boutiques on June […] Visit Three New MoonSwatch Mission On Earth Editions - Lava, Polar Lights, And Desert to read the full article.
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Fratelli Stories: Shanka’s Omega Speedmaster Was A Fascination Decades In The Making Fratello
Jun 11, 2024

Fratelli Stories: Shanka’s Omega Speedmaster Was A Fascination Decades In The Making

In this edition of Fratelli Stories, I sit down with Fratello reader Shanka. While growing up in Sri Lanka and Australia, he gravitated towards watches made for adventure, and none more so than the Omega Speedmaster. Shanka has been a Fratello reader for many years. Since he and I both live in Australia, I had […] Visit Fratelli Stories: Shanka’s Omega Speedmaster Was A Fascination Decades In The Making to read the full article.
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Hands-On With The Racing-Inspired Depancel Série-R Tangerine Chronograph Automatic Fratello
Jun 11, 2024

Hands-On With The Racing-Inspired Depancel Série-R Tangerine Chronograph Automatic

The French brand Depancel has captured the hearts of people who love classic racing-style chronographs. The colorful and diverse racing chronographs of the 1960s and ’70s continue to offer plenty of inspiration for Depancel’s new models. With the new Série-R Tangerine Chronograph Automatic, the brand once again looks to the greats from the past while […] Visit Hands-On With The Racing-Inspired Depancel Série-R Tangerine Chronograph Automatic to read the full article.
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Comments 4

  1. C. Almeida
    The framing here is frankly a bit off. A chronograph is hardly the most-engineered complication in Swiss watchmaking; that crown belongs to perpetual calendars and minute repeaters. That said, the automatic chronograph remains the most *accessible* complicated movement for volume producers, and that's a worthier claim. The 1969 reference is apt, though the real innovation happened years before.
    1. Ben W. replying to C. Almeida
      Fair correction on the engineering hierarchy. But I'd add: the "accessibility" angle gets muddied fast once you're actually trying to buy one. A Daytona or even a Tudor Chrono sits behind waitlists and AD games that make "accessible" feel like marketing speak. The movement's elegant, sure, but the secondary market lottery around these watches tells a different story about what buyers actually face.
  2. Reece
    thinking about getting my first chrono and this helped a lot. is a vintage automatic worth learning on or should i just grab something new first. also how much should i realistically spend.
    1. WristBuzz Team replying to Reece
      This all depends on your own feelings and what you like to spend. Pretty hard to answer imho.

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