Hodinkee
Hands-On: The Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean For 2025
A closer look at the fourth generation of Omega's modern dive watch, which was recently redesigned for 2025.
Dive Watches · Page 20
Hodinkee
Monochrome
Introducing - Yema Superman Bronze CMM.10 Limited Edition
Among French watchmakers, few names carry as much heritage and affection as Yema. Founded in 1948 in Morteau, the brand’s history is tied to adventure and innovation, with the Superman diver becoming its most emblematic creation. Over the past decade, Yema has made a remarkable comeback, not only reviving its legendary designs but also re-establishing […]
SJX Watches
Seiko Hits the Slopes with Bold Seiko 5 Sports Limited Editions
Southeast Asia may be better known for tropical heat than snow-covered slopes, but that has not stopped Seiko from launching a pair of winter sports-themed Seiko 5 Sports Winter Sports limited editions in collaboration with Thong Sia Group (TSG), the brand’s exclusive retail partner in Singapore, Hong Kong, and other key Asian markets. Executed in unconventional purple and brown colourways, the two models build on the familiar “5KX” platform, pairing the line’s accessible pricing and diver-inspired design with hues said to be inspired by winter sports equipment. Produced in limited quantities and exclusive to TSG’s markets, the watches reflect Seiko’s ongoing willingness to use the Seiko 5 Sports collection as a platform for bolder aesthetics that might feel risky at higher price points, but feel entirely at home here. Initial thoughts While some brands have caught flack for releasing endless limited editions, that is arguably a strength of the Seiko 5 Sports line, which is an ideal canvas for iteration by virtue of its already ubiquitous diver style and impulse buy-friendly pricing. While collectors often gravitate towards safer colours such as black, blue or white when spending thousands of dollars, purple and brown (and even pink) are much less intimidating when priced under US$400. According to Seiko, the purple and brown colour choices were inspired by winter sports equipment; I can imagine the purple pairs perfectly with Patagonia. Snowbound Both colourwa...
Worn & Wound
A New Twist on the Ocean Inspired Dive Watch LE from Zenith and Topper
The last few weeks of the year are usually pretty quiet on the new release front, but there have been a handful of last minute limited editions come across the wires recently that are definitely of at least some interest. We just brought you news of a new Doxa LE from our friends at Topper Jewelers in Burlingame, CA, and in what amounts to an insanely quick turnaround, they’re back again with what surely has to be their final release of the year, a new collaboration with Zenith. This watch does one of my favorite things a watch can do, which is to completely hide its coolest feature most of the time, only allowing it to be visible under very specific conditions. It’s the same reason I love the less obvious and more subtle Grand Seiko dial textures – it’s the watch equivalent of a secret handshake. The Defy Extreme Diver Topper Edition is built on Zenith’s contemporary diver platform, an overengineered, 600 meter diver in the Defy line. Zenith has done a nice job of building out their diver selections in the last year or so, almost to the point where it’s hard to believe that they went so long without a true diver in the collection. At the moment, enthusiasts have the choice between the Defy Extreme Diver like the one seen here, or an only slightly more sedate “Revival” diver that’s essentially a one to one recreation of a vintage reference. The shared DNA between the two is obvious, and the way Zenith has positioned these watches within their own cata...
Monochrome
Introducing - The Full-Lumed Doxa SUB 250T GMT Great White Topper Edition
Following a well-received collaboration between Doxa and Topper Jewelers, last year’s white-hot SUB 300T Great White, the partnership returns for 2025 with another creation: the Doxa SUB 250T GMT Great White Topper Edition. Limited to 100 pieces, this new release builds upon the compact, travel-ready SUB 250T GMT introduced earlier this year, offering a fresh […]
Monochrome
The ABCs of Time - Your Guide to Functional Watch Bezels, From Diver to Tachymeter and Rare Ones
By and large, most information on your watch comes from the dial. Sometimes there are functions on the back, like a power reserve indicator or an addition to the case, like on the Pierre Kunz Spirit Diver with a Boyle-Mariotte depth gauge that can measure down to 80 metres. Functional watch bezels, however, add functionality […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
3 Best Dive Watches From Germany We Tested (That Most People Ignore)
Explore 3 overlooked German dive watches that deliver real-world value, serious durability, and surprising wrist comfort.
WatchAdvice
My Father’s Longines HydroConquest GMT, Two Years On (Owner’s Perspective)
The Longines HydroConquest GMT is one of Longines’ most modern references, but has it stood up to two years’ worth of my father’s ownership standards? Let’s ask him! Purchasing Expectations: A utilitarian watch, fit for my dad’s lifestyle Clever micro-adjustment system A Flyer-style GMT, helpful for international travel Ownership Reality: Some design elements we disagree with Durability of the rubber strap Can you see the date? Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for Money: 9/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 8/10 When it comes to dive watches, very few can genuinely be called underrated. It’s a thoroughly complete subgenre of horology, filled with some of the most iconic collections in watchmaking history. Submariner, Fifty Fathoms, Seamaster, Aquaracer, Black Bay… these are just a few names that define the dive watch enthusiast’s vocabulary. But more often than not, the price-to-performance ratio is heavily skewed. These collections carry not only cultural weight but a sense of luxury as well, and their prices rarely reflect their intended purpose. Tangentially, I told a friend earlier this year that I believed Submariners are the most mistreated watches in history: built to withstand extreme pressures, yet typically left to gather dust in a safe. Diving Into The New Longines Hydroconquest GMT 43mm One dive watch that avoids this fate is the Longines HydroConquest. Luxurious yet fairly priced, high-performance without pretension, it has consis...
Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Kermit Review: The First Green Submariner
The watch enthusiast community has a way with nicknames, especially when it comes to Rolex. While the Crown has never embraced the proliferation of highly specified pet-names for its most popular models outright, it is a helpful shorthand for quickly differentiating between references. Especially if you, like me, have difficulty pulling reference numbers off the top of your head. We’ve already covered some of the other mean green makes from the Crown in depth, like the Rolex Hulk and the Submariner Starbucks. Today, we’re going to be wading into the weeds of the Submariner, nicknamed after the world’s most famous frog, and getting into the nitty-gritty of how it came to be, and how to differentiate it from other similar-hued Rolex watches. [toc-section heading="Context and History"] Image: Bonhams While the history of Rolex’s most iconic can be traced back to the early 1950s, the story of the “Submariner” Kermit is a much more contemporary one. If you’re in the mood for a more in-depth historical lesson, I will refer you now to our complete guide to the Submariner here. This leg of our journey starts in 2003, a major anniversary year for the Rolex Sub. As watchmakers are wont to do, the Crown decided to celebrate the 50th birthday of the Submariner with a special anniversary edition. In a playful move that polarized the purist collectors, Rolex debuted the Submariner reference 16610LV, which was differentiated most obviously by its bright green bezel. Th...
Worn & Wound
Albishorn Introduces their Latest “Imaginary Vintage” Type 10
Albishorn is a brand based on one of the most tantalizing concepts that we’ve come across: vintage watches that never existed. I’ve thought about this conceit quite a bit since the brand was launched a few years ago. In some ways, it’s not so different on the surface from any other “vintage inspired” watch. The vast majority of them, after all, never existed. The Black Bay, for instance, takes inspiration from a great many vintage Tudor and Rolex watches, but it’s not a one to one recreation of anything – it never actually existed. But Albishorn is different. They place their watches in an imagined reality. Each one is its own “sliding doors” moment brought to life in watch form – a thought experiment about how things might be if they had turned out just a little differently. The Type 10 is pitched as an imaginary ancestry to the Type 20, a very real watch that just about everyone reading this will be at least somewhat familiar with. Imagining a predecessor to the Type 20 also means imagining the infrastructure to create it, the timeline on which it would have been made, and even design details that might have been improved or altered in the later (and real) watch. Today, Albishorn releases a new variant of the Type 10, which they’re calling the Type 10 Officer. Like previous Type 10s, this is a monopusher chronograph designed in the language of military issued watches. This one has a white dial, which the brand explains makes more sense for an Of...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Military Watch Showdown: Hands-On Testing The Marathon TSAR vs CWC SBS Diver
We’ve tested both of these iconic military watches to break down design, build, and military-grade toughness.
Monochrome
Introducing - The Tuxedo Dial Returns with the New Serica Ref. 6190 TXD
Since its founding in 2019, Serica has built a loyal following for its elegant take on tool watches. Designed in Paris by Jérôme Burgert and Gabriel Vachette (of Les Rhabilleurs publication), Serica’s creations blend the discipline of military design with what is best described as distinctly French refinement. The brand’s collection comprises the 5303 Diver […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The Seiko ‘Save the Ocean’ Diver I Didn’t Expect to Like Finally Gets It Right
Seiko introduces a limited Save the Ocean 1965 Heritage Diver with a teal sunburst dial, gray bezel, and upgraded microadjust clasp.
Teddy Baldassarre
Best Solar-Powered Dive Watches For Every Budget
While solar-powered quartz technology has been around for decades, it’s still a relatively new innovation in the centuries-old watch world. I wouldn’t say the solar-powered revolution has fully arrived (especially as contemporary enthusiasts continue to find appeal in the craftsmanship of mechanical calibers in an increasingly digital world), but the technology has undoubtedly become more reliable and refined in recent years. The convenience and ease of being able to charge up your watch in both natural and artificial light sources, as well as the security of the long-lasting battery life, actually lend themselves well to more high-stakes and tactical situations. Riffing on that theme, I’ve scoured the watch industry for the best solar dive watches on the market. Down below, you’ll find what I believe to be the most compelling solar divers out there for your reading pleasure, offered at a wide range of price points so everyone can get in on the fun. [toc-section heading="Citizen Eco-Drive Promaster Dive Titanium"] Case: 44mm, Material: Super Titanium, Water Resistance: 200 meters, Caliber: E168 Solar, Price: $575 It was Citizen who truly revolutionized the genre of solar-powered watches in the '90s. The brand was the very first to launch pieces that could power up with both sunlight and artificial light sources with the launch of its Eco-Drive technology, and it remains a leader in the category today. While Citizen has quite a number of solar-powered watches that...
Hodinkee
Dispatch: Diving With The New Tudor Pelagos FXD Black
With a few notable changes from its original spec, the new black FXD chases MilSub glory.
Hodinkee
Watch It: 'Wristwatch Revival' Restores A Rolex Deepsea That Was Heavily Damaged In The Palisades Fires
The hour-long video covers a months-long restoration of a Rolex diver that looked almost unrecognizable after being pulled from the ashes of a house fire.
Monochrome
Introducing - Eska Launches the New Racing Chronograph Automatic, a Sub-500 Euros Take on Motorsport Design
Originally founded in 1918 in Granges, Switzerland, Eska Watches vanished during the quartz crisis and was revived in 2024 by Christophe Chevreton and Sinicha Knezevic. The partners quickly captured the essence of Eska’s heritage and adapted it to modern trends. The rebirth began with the Amphibian 250 dive watch and the Heritage Chronograph, both assembled […]
Time+Tide
We chat with Jialing Cai, 2025’s Female Fifty Fathoms winner, on blackwater photography and her new Blancpain watch
Jamie chats with the dynamic young marine biologist about her journey as a diver and photographer, and her relationship with Blancpain.The post We chat with Jialing Cai, 2025’s Female Fifty Fathoms winner, on blackwater photography and her new Blancpain watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
Omega Co-Axial Movement Explained: A Radical Invention
What is a Co-Axial Movement? More specifically, what is the now-famous Co-Axial Escapement that has become a standard feature on most all Omega watches? In short, it's both a radical concept by one of the modern era's most revered watchmaking geniuses and the culmination of a Swiss watch brand's longtime dedication to improving watchmaking accuracy. Here is the story of Omega's co-axial movements. [toc-section heading="Early Omega Movements"] While it is best known these days for its signature watch models, like the Speedmaster “Moonwatch” and the James Bond-worn Seamaster, Omega has also been a pioneer in movement-making since nearly the beginning. The company was founded in 1848 by 23-year-old watchmaker Louis Brandt (with family, above) in the Swiss village of La Chaux-de-Fonds. Originally called La Genérale Watch Company, and eventually renamed Louis Brandt et Fils after Brandt’s sons joined the business, it originally produced key-wound pocket watches from parts supplied by local artisans, After the growing company moved from La Chaux-de-Fonds to the more bustling town of Bienne, in the Swiss Canton of Bern, it pioneered a series of industrial watchmaking techniques and also began making its own in-house movements. The first one, called the Labrador, launched in 1885 in a now-legendary series of pocket watches. Nearly a decade later, in 1894, came the company’s chef d’oeuvre, the 19-ligne Omega Caliber, which was notable at the time for its enviable acc...
Teddy Baldassarre
9 New Watches Released This Week
Even with the year coming to an end, we are still seeing a slow trickle of new watch releases ranging from a new MoonSwatch to a Breguet showstopper celebrating the maison's 250th anniversary. Here are the notable new watch releases from this past week as well as the new updates to the Tudor Ranger and Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean (hey, we can be a little flexible with the "week" rule). As brands squeeze in final announcements before the calendar flips, it's a reminder that the watch world never really rests. And if you want to see our favorite watches of the year, make sure to check out the Teddy Top 40 Watches of 2025 which just got a big update. [toc-section heading="TAG Heuer x Fragment Design Carrera"] TAG Heuer continues its collaborative relationship with Hiroshi Fujiwara and his fashion brand, fragment design, with the release of a new glassbox Carrera this week. The watch takes design cues from fragment’s signature style, meaning monochromatic in nature, with minimal details to place emphasis on the broad strokes for contrast. The black-on-black dial is framed by a white internal bezel structure, which is domed under the glassbox crystal. The date aperture is placed at the 12 o’clock position, with the first and 11th of the month using the fragment lightning-bolt logo in lieu of the numeral. This is fitted within the excellent 39mm steel Carrera case, and utilizes TAG Heuer’s TH20-00 automatic chronograph movement, visible through an exhibition caseback. Thi...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Rolex Submariner vs Glashütte Original SeaQ: We Tested The Sub Alternative Everyone Overlooks
The SeaQ is often overlooked in the shadow of the Sub. We tested both watches to see which feels better beyond the honeymoon phase and which one we’d actually buy.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds: Great Vintage Listings from Seiko, Omega, Benrus, and More
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion. Vintage Seiko Bell-Matic 4006-6010 Starting this week off with a solid vintage Seiko Bell-Matic alarm watch. The steel case is nice, unpolished with sharp edges. The silver dial has a cool linen texture that gives it a great vintage look. Applied, raised steel markers with dauphine hands and the classic Seiko day/date window at three complete the look. Overall this is a clean example of a Bell-Matic. The only bummer is that it doesn’t come on the original bracelet. However, slap a nice leather or croc strap on this and you’ll have a gem! No movement picture but the seller states the watch runs well. View auction here Vintage Omega Seamaster DeVille Looking for a nice treat for yourself for the holidays? Check out this sweet vintage Omega Seamaster DeVille. The DeVille is Omega’s dress watch version of their iconic Seamaster line, and this example would be from the 1960s. The slim yellow gold filled case is superb and unpolished. You can still see the subtle chamfers on the delicate lugs. The classic Omega silver dial is super clean, with slim stick markers and stick hands. There is an applied gold Omega symbol and name at twelve. The Omega signed crown is correct and original. T...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
HGP’s Affordable Chronograph Brings Mecaquartz Charm to a Classic Diver Shape
HGP launches the Diver 200M Chrono-Mecaquartz, a chronograph in a Monnin-style case, priced from $395 and one of 2025’s standout watches.
Fratello
Fratello’s Top 5 GMT Watches Of 2025 - Featuring Nomos, Tudor, Rolex, And More
Another Friday, another list! This week, we continue the series of our favorite watches of 2025. This week, we’re focusing on our favorite GMT watches released in the past 12 months. After last week’s list of dive watches, GMT watches are an easy second category. Just like last week, we picked our five favorites from […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 GMT Watches Of 2025 - Featuring Nomos, Tudor, Rolex, And More to read the full article.
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