Dive Watches · Page 28

Worn & Wound

Oct 9, 2025

The Tudor Black Bay and the Myth of the One Watch Collection

The idea of a “one watch collection” has been a fascination of mine as I’ve gotten deeper into the hobby. Part of the reason, I’m sure, is the growing anxiety I feel when I look down at my similarly growing watch collection and realize that many of these things are simply not getting worn as much as I’d like them to be. This, I’ve learned, is an extremely common sentiment among those with our affliction, and it’s perhaps what leads to every “for sale” post on the various enthusiast forums where we try desperately to thin the herd.  So a one watch collection, which is admittedly not really a collection at all, feels a bit like a utopic fantasy for someone with a herd of watches spiraling slowly, and then quickly, out of control. “Fantasy” here is the key word. I’ll point out right up front that I have no real intention of selling everything off, or limiting myself to one watch in any way, shape or form. The variety that has always been part of this hobby is what draws me in deeper and deeper, and I’ve come to accept to a degree that I’ll always have a number of watches at my disposal, even if I can’t quite come to a decision on what that number should actually be.  And yet, as a thought experiment, the one watch collection persists. We discussed it on a podcast recently and we got so much feedback I wanted to expand my thoughts a little on my own choice for this hypothetical one watch collection, and pretty soon you’ll see our contributors ...

Read article

Worn & Wound

Oct 9, 2025

Le Forban Sécurité Mer Introduces the Marseillaise, a New Diver with a (Very Strange) Rubber Bund Strap

I love a bit of fashion history, especially when it comes to how our modern clothes came to be. Take, for instance, the high heel. Did you know it was originally designed as a riding shoe in 10th century Persia, in which the heel was made to sit in the stirrup? Or that the jockstrap was originally for “bike jockeys” to help keep things comfortable on old (and presumably not so aerodynamic) bicycles? Or that the Hawaiian shirt, now synonymous with dads at Margaritaville, was first designed using Japanese kimono fabric in the early 1900s? All of that is to say that fashion is ever-evolving and with some quite surprising origins, if you ask me. Another accessory with an interesting – if not murkier –  history is the bund strap. Some say the name comes from the word Bundesrepublik, while others say it’s from Bundeswehr (I try not to split hairs too much in German – as you know, it’s such a forgiving language). Some say the leather strap protected against discoloration of brass watch cases from skin perspiration, while others say it was to protect against the extreme temperature change of the metal for pilots. In any case, we know that a) the design originated among pilots during World War II and b) it’s a badass strap design that often doesn’t get enough attention. Which leads me (finally) to the release of Le Forban Sécurité Mer’s Marseillaise dive watch with a bund-style strap. The French brand has taken its 1979 Monnin model as the springboard (or sho...

Read article

Fratello

Oct 8, 2025

Seiko Europe Introduces The Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver’s GMT Seashadow SPB534

In 2023, Seiko debuted its Prospex GMT models. Based on the groundbreaking 1968 300m-rated Professional dive watch, the current offerings have a similar form, including an external rotating bezel and strong case shape. The watches have proven popular, and since the initial release, the brand has predictably announced several limited editions. Today, we have a […] Visit Seiko Europe Introduces The Prospex 1968 Heritage Diver’s GMT Seashadow SPB534 to read the full article.

Read article

Teddy Baldassarre

Oct 7, 2025

Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT Review: Tudor's Most Versatile Travel Watch?

Tudor has been on a roll in recent years with expanding its contemporary repertoire of watches, and has debuted several heaters across its collection this year alone. But if I were to pick out one model as a standout among the bunch over the past few years, I think that a release from 2024 still takes the cake as its most impactful addition to its modern catalog – the Black Bay 58 GMT. I know everyone might not agree with me here, and we’re all entitled to our own unique favorites (I will say the Black Bay Pro is a close second, for transparency), but there’s something about the Black Bay GMT that continuously impresses me. From its wearability to its versatility and great color palette, there’s a lot to love. So, as a testament to my Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT favoritism, today, I’m diving into the depths with this watch, exploring how it came to be, what works about it, what it possibly leaves to be desired, and, of course, some speculative guesses on where I think the brand might go next. Some Context and History  As always, it’s necessary to begin at, well, the beginning, and do a little bit of digging into the brand’s legacy to chart the trajectory of how we get to the Tudor Black Bay 58 GMT. For an even further exploration into the longstanding history of Tudor GMT watches, I will refer you now to this definitive guide on the subject here. Unlike its luxurious older sibling, Tudor’s connection with GMT functionality can’t really be traced back anywher...

Read article

Hodinkee

Oct 6, 2025

Hands-On: Unimatic's Modello Uno Prodiver 600m Is All Titanium, No Frills, And Better For It

I don't need my diver watch to slice, dice, and julienne fries. But I do think that everyone needs a watch like this.

Read article

Worn & Wound

Oct 6, 2025

Citizen Introduces a Trio of Limited Edition Series8 Watches Inspired by Japanese Cityscapes

Citizen has introduced a trio of limited edition watches in their Series8 collection, all of which are inspired by Japanese cityscapes and urban environments. It’s a bit of a departure for the Series8 collection in terms of aesthetics, or at least the point of inspiration, as these watches have typically ruminations on the natural world, or are simply stark, traditional designs that highlight the geometry of the case and integrated bracelet. These new watches all have quite a bit going on in terms of dial texture and the use of gold tones, neither of which are exactly subtle in these references.  The centerpiece of the three new LEs is a new 880 Mechanical, reference NB6035-55H, which has a gray coated case and bracelet and a textured white dial with gold tone accents. According to the Citizen, the design inspiration here is that of city lights on fallen snow against an asphalt backdrop. Of the three new watches seen here, this is the only one equipped with a GMT complication, so we also get a white and black 24 hour bezel that complements the dial quite nicely. The movement is a Citizen caliber 9054 (made by Miyota), which has local jumping hour capabilities. The case measures 41mm in diameter and 13.55mm tall, and it’s a limited edition of 1,600 pieces with a retail price of $1,695. The other two watches in Citizen’s cityscape trilogy are both 890 Mechanical references, essentially a diver with an internal rotating bezel. The NB6060-58H is likely the most straight...

Read article

Monochrome

Oct 6, 2025

Introducing - The Doxa SUB 250 Ahmed Seddiqi 75th Anniversary Limited Edition

When you turn 75, it means you can look back at three-quarters of a century of achievements and celebrate them with friends and partners. Marking the 75th anniversary of UAE’s leading luxury retailer, Ahmed Seddiqi & Sons, cult brand Doxa launches a special edition that brings the brand’s 1973-born SUB 250 into sharp contemporary focus […]

Read article

Time+Tide

Oct 5, 2025

Yema inaugurates its high-end Millésime Editions with a titanium tourbillon Superman force majeure

The upwardly-mobile French brand has taken its iconic dive watch, cased it in titanium and housed a manufacture tourbillon movement within.The post Yema inaugurates its high-end Millésime Editions with a titanium tourbillon Superman force majeure appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Read article

Worn & Wound

Oct 3, 2025

Behind the DIN 8330 Standard for Pilot’s Watches

Standards and certifications in watchmaking were primarily developed for chronometry, as well as to reassure the buyer that their watch had been thoroughly tested to a certain level of accuracy. The standards we see most often in the technical specifications are COSC, METAS, and other company or regional chronometry certifications. In modern watchmaking, other key standards like the ISO 6425 dive watch standard, which was developed in the 1990s and followed by watch companies, also come into play. These standards were largely based on various military set standards for watches; however, since each military set their own requirements, there was not one universally followed standard. The International Organization for Standardization (ISO) published specific requirements and testing procedures for a watch to be officially designated a “Diver’s watch”. While there is no ISO standard for pilot’s watches, there are specific requirements set by militaries around the world. One of the most well-known standards is from the WWII German pilot’s watch known as the “Beobachtungsuhren” or “B-Uhren.” B-Uhren pilot’s watch standards are well documented and are still followed by many watch companies to this day. In March 2012, Sinn lead an initiative in collaboration with the Faculty of Aerospace Technology at the Aachen University of Applied Sciences to create TESTAF – Technical Standard for Pilot Watches. TESTAF was developed so that a pilot’s watch meets all mod...

Read article

Fratello

Oct 3, 2025

Hands-On With The New Aquastar Benthos Professional

If you’ve been sleeping on Aquastar, it’s high time to get on board and take a look at the brand’s dive watches. Since 2020, the revitalized company has released a flurry of watches under its two core collections. The Deepstar models represent the dawn of recreational diving during the ’60s. On the other hand, the […] Visit Hands-On With The New Aquastar Benthos Professional to read the full article.

Read article

Teddy Baldassarre

Oct 2, 2025

Omega Speedmaster vs Seamaster: The Icons Compared

If you're relatively new to the watch collecting game and are ready to graduate to your first Omega watch, you're probably pondering a question that has confronted many others before you: Speedmaster or Seamaster? Spaceworthy historical chronograph or tough but stylish diver? Buzz Aldrin or Jacques Cousteau? The official watch of NASA or the official watch of James Bond? Both of these megapopular Omega watches have rich, amazing stories to tell and both today offer a plethora of options in terms of colorways, materials, and even added complications - all while still remaining true to their heritage. In this feature, we compare and contrast the Omega Speedmaster vs Seamaster in the pursuit of helping prospective buyers make a (hopefully) more informed decision on their first - or next - Omega watch.  Omega Speedmaster vs Seamaster: Far From Their Roots In terms of seniority as a product family, the Omega Seamaster has almost a decade on its chronograph sibling. The Seamaster as we know it today is one of the most iconic of dive watches, but in 1948, when Omega introduced the first model by that name, the “dive watch” as we know it in the modern sense didn’t really exist. The original Omega Seamaster was positioned in contemporary advertisements as a watch for “town, sea, and country” - a dress watch for gentlemen that was distinguished from its many competitors by its adoption of a new waterproofing system that Omega had developed for the watches it produ...

Read article

Time+Tide

Oct 1, 2025

Timex launches its higher-end Atelier line with the Marine M1a, emphasising proportion over spectacle

Designed by Giorgio Galli, Timex's "first luxury watch" is a robust mechanical diver with a surprisingly minimalist aesthetic.The post Timex launches its higher-end Atelier line with the Marine M1a, emphasising proportion over spectacle appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Read article

Fratello

Sep 29, 2025

Hot Take: The New Tudor 1926 Luna - Nailing It On The First Try?

The new Tudor 1926 Luna marks an unexpected first for the brand - a moonphase complication. We have come to expect new variations within the Black Bay or Pelagos lines. This time, though, Tudor chose its most understated collection for a milestone complication. The result is a 39mm dressy number with the brand’s very first […] Visit Hot Take: The New Tudor 1926 Luna - Nailing It On The First Try? to read the full article.

Read article

SJX Watches

Sep 29, 2025

Orient Star’s Manual-Wind Moon Phase is Slick and Silicon

The Orient Star M45 F8 Mechanical Moon Phase Hand Winding is the brand’s first manual-wind moon phase, and also the first in years with a solid dial, making it a refreshing change of pace from the brand’s usual fare that leans towards open-worked and occasionally over-designed styling. Initial Thoughts Excepting the vintage inspired Diver 1964, the M45 F8 moon phase is the most attractive watch in the Orient catalog to my eye. Most of the brand’s designs are too busy for my tastes, so these entries are a welcome departure that will certainly appeal to enthusiasts with more classical tastes. The moon phase disk itself, with mother-of-pearl inlay, is a highlight. And the absence of a seconds hand is a pleasant surprise, though the moon phase sub-dial feels naked without the traditional co-axial small seconds hand. Since the small seconds version of this calibre is not compatible with the moon phase module, Orient could have moved the Orient Star logo onto the sub-dial for more visual balance. Most importantly, this is a manually wound watch – with a competent movement – in a price segment where such things are hard to find. Looking at Japanese watches in particular, manual wind options from Grand Seiko and Credor are significantly more expensive, while Seiko, Orient, and Citizen dropped their entry-level manual watches years ago. Pleiades About two years ago, Orient Star reorganised its catalog by launching M Collections, a family of watches each named after astron...

Read article

Time+Tide

Sep 28, 2025

The Tudor Black Bay Pro’s thickness is a feature, not a flaw: the pros of exploring the boundaries of your personal taste

Having an open mind to explore the perimeters of what watches you think you can wear can be a very worthwhile exercise.The post The Tudor Black Bay Pro’s thickness is a feature, not a flaw: the pros of exploring the boundaries of your personal taste appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Read article

Fratello

Sep 28, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Lorier Neptune Vs. Baltic Aquascaphe MK2

Welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown! Daan and Thomas face off with two affordable vintage-inspired dive watches this time. Thomas defends the Lorier Neptune, while Daan represents the new Baltic Aquascaphe MK2. These contenders have the aesthetic of ’50s and ’60s dive watches and house modern Miyota movements in 39(.5)mm cases. The Lorier costs US$599, […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Lorier Neptune Vs. Baltic Aquascaphe MK2 to read the full article.

Read article

Worn & Wound

Sep 27, 2025

Watches, Stories, and Gear: Peak Design x Sitka, Spinnaker’s Nessie, Polyagonal Turning, and a Cool New F1 Merchandise

Rereleased: The Peak Design x Sitka Optifade Marsh Slide Lite Peak Design has once again collaborated with Sitka, hunting and outdoor experts, on a limited edition Slide Lite camera strap. Crafted in Sitka’s Optifade Marsh pattern, this strap blends comfort, versatility, and Peak Designs quick-connection system with the unique aesthetics and outdoors benefits of Sitka’s legendary concealment know-how. Wether you’re trying to blend in, or stand out, this camera strap might just be the perfect accessory for you.  Full specifications of the strap and details on how this collaboration came to be are available on Peak Design’s website.   Spinnaker and Scottish Watches release the Nessie Pear Diver Spinnaker Watches has announced its newest rendition of the Fleuss Automatic Nessie Pearl Diver Limited Edition, created in collaboration with Scottish Watches. This timepiece plunges into the depths of Loch Ness, drawing inspiration from Scotland’s legendary waters and its most mysterious inhabitant. Powered by a Miyota 8245, this collaborative piece features a mother of pearl dial, and Nessie illustrations on the small seconds dial and rotor. Limited to 650 pieces, the Nessie Pearl Diver was released on September 65, and retails for $425. For more details on the release, check out the official release page here. Tactile Turn Polyagonal Collection While Tactile Turn might be known for their cylindrical, machine finished writing devices, they’re unlocking a new machining...

Read article

Quill & Pad

Sep 27, 2025

Tudor Black Bay 58 Reviewed by Tim Mosso - This Silver 1950s-Rolex-Submariner-Homage Might Be Tudor’s Best Watch?

The Tudor Black Bay 58 925 is a crazy dive watch and it offers a better fit than larger Black Bay diver. Tim Mosso takes an in-depth look at Tudor's most unusual and compelling sports watch.

Read article

Time+Tide

Sep 26, 2025

Doxa’s SUB 200 ‘Dune’ is a sandy sequel that sticks the landing

This limited edition vintage-inspired skin diver won over Jason thanks to its sandy fumé dial and modern specs.The post Doxa’s SUB 200 ‘Dune’ is a sandy sequel that sticks the landing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Read article

Fratello

Sep 26, 2025

Spinnaker And Scottish Watches Team Up For The Nessie Pearl Diver

There is something about a watch tied to a good story. Whether it is a mythical creature, a historical figure, or a place that sparks the imagination, the right narrative can elevate a watch beyond being just another diver in the lineup. Spinnaker has leaned into this idea more than once, but its latest release […] Visit Spinnaker And Scottish Watches Team Up For The Nessie Pearl Diver to read the full article.

Read article

Two Broke Watch Snobs

Sep 25, 2025

Would You Buy a $1,000 Timex Diver? The New Marine M1a.

Timex debuts the Marine M1a, a $950 Swiss-made dive watch and the first release under its new high-end Atelier line.

Read article

Worn & Wound

Sep 25, 2025

From the Seiko SKX to the SPB317: How I Fell in Love with Seiko Again

At the end of summer 2014, Dad gave me my first mechanical watch. There was nothing ceremonial about it; he simply handed me the box in the car. “I’m starting a new tradition, and it’s a grown-up gift since you’re heading to college,” he said. I looked down at the box. It said Seiko. I was familiar with the brand. In fact, it was what I had been wearing up to that point: reference SNE039, a mid-sized solar-powered watch that Grandpa gave me when he saw me showing interest in it. I still have it. But this Seiko was different. It was a reference SKX173, a sibling of the beloved SKX007 dive watch that has led many a good man down the rabbit hole. It had a waterproof case, rotating dive bezel that I had no clue how to operate, and most importantly, an automatically winding movement.  “It’s easy – just shake it a bit to get it going,” said Dad. (OGs will remember the caliber 7s26’s lack of hand winding). I took the watch out of the box and shuffled it back and forth gently to coax it to life. It did, and as I stared at the sweeping seconds hand, I marveled that a microscopic team of gears, levers, and springs were all working harmoniously just to tell time. As an incoming engineering student, I couldn’t have asked for a better gift. I secured the black rubber strap on my wrist, and that was that. The remainder of the summer was spent reading everything I could get my hands on about Seiko watches and mechanical timekeeping at large. The excitement of movin...

Read article

Monochrome

Sep 25, 2025

Introducing - The new Tudor 1926 Luna, the Brand’s First Moonphase Watch

When you think about Tudor, you probably have in mind the image of a cool Submariner-inspired dive watch, with a retro-styled case and dial, and a solid manufacture movement by Kenissi inside. What I’ve just described is basically the Black Bay collection, which has been the brand’s cornerstone for over a decade. With this in […]

Read article

SJX Watches

Sep 25, 2025

Tudor’s First-Ever Moon Phase Wristwatch

In a surprise launch from a brand best known for its dive watches, Tudor just rolled out the 1926 Luna. It’s a thinnish, 39 mm dress watch with a moon phase – a first for Tudor – as well as a date, though in the typical Tudor style the case is still rated to 100 m and fitted to a solidly constructed steel bracelet. And unusually for a new launch from Tudor, the 1926 Luna is equipped with an ETA (or Sellita) calibre, which means lower specs than models powered by Tudor’s in-house movements, but also substantially more affordable at just US$2,800 or CHF2,400. The 1926 Luna debuts in three dial colours, including a champagne iteration that was conceived with the help of Jay Chou, a Taiwanese singer who’s one of the most famous musicians in the Mandarin-speaking world. Initial thoughts Tudor has long excelled at sports watches with high specs and low prices – making them some of the best value propositions out there – but dress watches have always been a weakness. The brand has made several attempts at dress watches with mixed results. The 1926 Luna, on the other hand, is much more promising. The design is classical, even a little conservative, but the look is appealing. The brushed dial in metallic colours give this a much more modern look than the rest of the 1926 line, which appears a little dated. Purists will complain about the date window, and it probably looks better on a leather strap than a bracelet, but the 1926 Luna is a strong proposition in its price...

Read article