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Dive Watches · Page 41

3,961 articles · Page 41 of 166
The Holy Trinity of Watches (And A New Trinity For 2025) Teddy Baldassarre
May 19, 2025

The Holy Trinity of Watches (And A New Trinity For 2025)

When we talk about "the Holy Trinity of Watches" or "Holy Trinity of Swiss Watchmaking," or "the Big Three," most of us watch aficionados agree on which watchmakers we're referring to: Vacheron Constantin, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet (that would be in ascending order of age). How did this triumvirate of historical maisons - one of which has been making watches since before the 19th Century, two of which remain family-owned - ascend to the highest echelons of prestige in the eyes of the watch connoisseur community? Each has its own intriguing history and can claim its own milestones in the evolution of modern watchmaking. Here, we briefly tell each of their stories and spotlight some of the timepieces that have made them immortal.  PATEK PHILIPPE Founded: 1839; Headquarters: Geneva, Switzerland; Ownership: Stern Family; Notable models: Calatrava, Nautilus, Aquanaut, Sky Moon Tourbillon Since its founding in 1839 in Geneva, Patek Philippe has been a leader in high watchmaking, pioneering many complications and design elements that are now seen widely throughout the watch industry. Polish watchmakers Antoine Norbert de Patek and Francois Czapek partnered to form the original company, Patek, Czapek, & Cie.; French horologist Jean Adrien Philippe, who invented the keyless winding and setting system still standard on watches today, joined in 1845, and the Genevan manufacture has been known as Patek Philippe ever since. Among its many horological milestone...
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Doxa Adds a Steel Bezel to the SUB 200 Diver Worn & Wound
May 19, 2025

Doxa Adds a Steel Bezel to the SUB 200 Diver

Doxa added a GMT to their collection for the first time in years to much fanfare recently (we covered it here). This watch got quite a bit of press and stirred considerable interest within the enthusiast community, but to my mind it was only the second best watch the brand showed us when we met with them in Geneva last month (that’s second out of two, just to be clear). I’m not sure what it is, exactly, but I’m a little over the whole “put a GMT on it” approach to product development that the industry has been stuck in for the last few years. Do we really need the ability to track two or more time zones on every watch? And should we really be doing it with movements that perform this function almost by accident and are nearly impossible to use correctly if you’re actually traveling? I’m trying not to be a hater, really I am, but every time I see a new GMT equipped watch that’s just a riff on an existing diver or chronograph, as if a GMT complication is just an extra side on a barbecue platter, I ask myself what it is that we’re doing here, really.  A new version of the Doxa SUB 200 was the other watch Doxa was showing in Geneva last month, although it was embargoed until last week, so I couldn’t come out of that meeting with the blistering hot take that it actually makes a lot more sense as a watch than the SUB 250T GMT, which to me feels like something ChatGPT might invent if you asked it to think of Doxa watches that don’t yet exist. This SUB 200 i...
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Do Tudor’s Price Increases Create More Space For Players Like Formex, Longines, And Sinn? Fratello
May 19, 2025

Do Tudor’s Price Increases Create More Space For Players Like Formex, Longines, And Sinn?

The 39.5mm Formex “Baby” Reef represents, to me, the sort of value for money we were once accustomed to with Tudor’s Black Bay series in the COVID era. Although that was just a few short years ago, Tudor is moving upmarket, allowing brands like Formex, Longines, and Sinn to sweep in and fill its former […] Visit Do Tudor’s Price Increases Create More Space For Players Like Formex, Longines, And Sinn? to read the full article.
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Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Railmaster (2025) Vs. Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M (38mm) Fratello
May 18, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Railmaster (2025) Vs. Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M (38mm)

This week, Omega launched two new versions of its 38mm Railmaster. One features a gray gradient dial, while the other has a beige gradient dial. They share a flat, matte, time-only layout, which sets them apart from the current Seamaster Aqua Terra lineup. The new Railmaster is also €1,000 less expensive than the similarly specced […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Railmaster (2025) Vs. Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M (38mm) to read the full article.
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Introducing: An Icy New White-Dial Variant Of The 39mm Longines Legend Diver Fratello
May 16, 2025

Introducing: An Icy New White-Dial Variant Of The 39mm Longines Legend Diver

The 39mm Longines Legend Diver is one of those rare watches that all of us at Fratello HQ like. While most watches spark at least some kind of debate among Fratello editors, the Legend Diver is universally admired. So when Longines releases a new dial variant, we pay attention, especially when it is a crisp […] Visit Introducing: An Icy New White-Dial Variant Of The 39mm Longines Legend Diver to read the full article.
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Introducing: The Seiko 5 Sports SRPL83, SRPL85, SRPL87, And SRPL89 Fratello
May 15, 2025

Introducing: The Seiko 5 Sports SRPL83, SRPL85, SRPL87, And SRPL89

Over the past six years, the current Seiko 5 Sports collection has become widely diverse. First announced in August 2019, spec-wise, it wasn’t a direct successor to the famous SKX dive watches. However, with the discontinuation of the SKX series and the SRPD models’ visual link to those watches, it’s clear where the inspiration came […] Visit Introducing: The Seiko 5 Sports SRPL83, SRPL85, SRPL87, And SRPL89 to read the full article.
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Seiko SKX007 Review Teddy Baldassarre
May 15, 2025

Seiko SKX007 Review

We never really know how – or when – it happens, but some watches manage to achieve an iconic status that gives them a certain immortality long after discontinuation. We know the types, from the Speedmaster to the Submariner to the Royal Oak. But not all icons are pricey and they’re certainly not all Swiss. Enter the Seiko SKX007, a watch without a nickname, whose reference number is as recognizable as any of the aforementioned icons I just listed. The SKX, as we call it shorthand, is the value king in all of horology because of its capability from top to bottom, literally. Today we are going to be examining the SKX007, a watch that Seiko has since moved on from and never truly replaced. We will look at it at face value (as well as current secondary market value), for the watch’s impact on collector culture, and for its staying power even in the face of no longer remaining in production. Seiko SKX007 History And Specs In order to properly contextualize the SKX007, we must go back in time to the 1970s, when Seiko made its first impactful dive watch. Notice how I say "impactful," as the lot of you ready yourselves to remind me not to discount the 62MAS. For the record, I am not – at least not entirely. The 62MAS has proven to be a classic for Seiko, but the diver that really put the brand on the map in terms of culturally relevant tool watches was the Ref. 6105 which was worn by Martin Sheen in the film Apocalypse Now. It has since gone on to take the name of his c...
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Serica Introduces the 5303 PLD, a New Diver Made in Collaboration with the French Navy Worn & Wound
May 15, 2025

Serica Introduces the 5303 PLD, a New Diver Made in Collaboration with the French Navy

Serica has unveiled the new 5303 PLD, a new dive watch the brand has developed in partnership with the French Navy. Specifically, the watch was developed with the EOD (Explosive Ordinance Disposal) team, which, I think most people will understand, is a fairly highly specialized and dangerous diving discipline. The watch follows the form and function of Serica’s popular 5303 diver, but with a few small tweaks that distinguish it from the standard version without calling out to its inspiration too overtly.  The most notable and obvious change from the standard 5303 is the new bezel, which has a “DT Max” scale as opposed to the standard dive bezel that allows you to count minutes from a given start time. The DT Max bezel features twin scales (minutes and meters) that display the “maximum working time” at a given depth. This allows a diver, in theory, to ascend continuously without decompression stops, a necessity for EOD divers. The number at the outer scale (“profonduer,” or depth) relates directly to a number on the inner scale, the number of minutes a diver can safely work. Not super functional for anyone not on a dive, but it provides a very real reminder of the danger of the sport, and adds a certain charm to the piece. The bezel itself is rendered in a shade the brand refers to as “abyssal blue,” and it’s a very nice shade that further sets this diver apart from other watches in the Serica lineup.  Serica has also tweaked the dial in small ways for...
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Omega Railmaster Review Teddy Baldassarre
May 15, 2025

Omega Railmaster Review

The Omega Railmaster can best be put into historical context as of one of the most recognizable names in its category that arguably gets the least amount of attention. It hasn’t been a mainstay for the brand, and currently sits in purgatory, with no modern Railmaster existing in the contemporary Omega collection. It’s a black sheep with serious historical credentials that should have been a perennial adversary to the Rolex Explorer, and yet it became instead something of an enthusiast darling, a relic of esoterica. I would argue that it just missed its initial window to hit immortality, courtesy of little more than bad timing. It was, and remains, one of the coolest designs from a brand that really could rest on its laurels behind the Speedmaster and Seamaster. And with those two models mentioned, let’s properly understand the what, where, how, and why of the Omega Railmaster. Okay, and also the when. In 1957, Omega basically released the only three watches any brand would ever have to release to prove everlasting viability. Well, in theory, two of those brands seem to have done the trick – the Railmaster was just icing on the cake. Think of it like when Rolex unveiled the Submariner and the Explorer in the very same year, followed closely by the GMT-Master. Those three watches have experienced continuous production since that time and represent the core ethos of Rolex today. Similarly, in ‘57, we saw Omega unveil a trilogy of watches: The Seamaster, the Speedmas...
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Worn & Wound
May 15, 2025

Windup in a Bay 2025: Campfires, Cold Water, Watches, and Gear with Marathon Watch Company and Prometheus Design Werx

The second annual Windup in a Bay expedition brought the Windup spirit straight to the Monterey Bay Area, running in tandem with the Windup Watch Fair San Francisco. This year’s adventure wasn’t just about diving-it was about building a full-circle experience, starting with a scenic campout at Elkhorn Ranch, and culminating in an open-water dive off the dramatic coast of Carmel. Returning as the dive watch sponsor was Marathon, whose reputation for hard-use, no-nonsense dive watches is second to none. New to the mix: Prometheus Design Werx, coming aboard as the official gear sponsor and loading out the crew with equipment designed to meet every challenge, whether by land or by sea. The post Windup in a Bay 2025: Campfires, Cold Water, Watches, and Gear with Marathon Watch Company and Prometheus Design Werx appeared first on Worn & Wound.
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A Hands-On Introduction To The New Omega Railmaster With A Beige Or Gray Gradient Dial Fratello
May 15, 2025

A Hands-On Introduction To The New Omega Railmaster With A Beige Or Gray Gradient Dial

With recent Speedmaster and Seamaster releases, Omega quietly put the new watches on its ambassadors’ wrists to hint at what was coming. We could have missed it, but we don’t think the same happened with the newly revised Railmaster. Supposedly, there was a leaked image, but it came with very little information. Luckily, we’ve recently […] Visit A Hands-On Introduction To The New Omega Railmaster With A Beige Or Gray Gradient Dial to read the full article.
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Rolex Explorer II 16570: The Best Value Rolex GMT Teddy Baldassarre
May 14, 2025

Rolex Explorer II 16570: The Best Value Rolex GMT

My first Rolex was an Explorer II 216570 with black dial and I absolutely loved that watch. It was rarer than the GMT-Master II or Submariner, and didn’t have the ceramic bezel, which I found to be a little too glossy and “luxe” for what I was looking for in a watch at the time. I kept and wore the heck out of that watch for almost six years until I just felt like it didn’t speak to me anymore. The 42mm wide “Maxi” case seemed too big and the big, thick hour and minutes hands just began to bug me. I can’t explain why I was so dead set on the 216570 rather than the older 16570 at the time but I can certainly say that now, in 2025, the Rolex Explorer II 16570 is not just my preferred iteration of the modern spelunking watch, but an all-timer from Rolex. I’ve started to refer to the 16570 as a “Forever Rolex” because it ticks all the boxes - size, reliability, dual-time functionality, and discrete aesthetics - all while remaining one of the few Rolexes that isn’t immediately recognizable to every casual observer. Let’s take a look at why I’m such a big fan of this old-school Rolex. Case and Specs: The Other Rolex GMT Measuring 40mm wide and 12.2mm thick with a 47mm lug-to-lug height, the 16570 is an eminently wearable Rolex. And while this is very obviously a sport/tool watch, these proportions make for a very versatile and subdued piece. No, there isn’t a rotating bezel with a nickname-ready color combo here. Rather, there is a demure, fixed ...
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Girard-Perregaux Reintroduces The Deep Diver In Collaboration With Bamford Watch Department Fratello
May 14, 2025

Girard-Perregaux Reintroduces The Deep Diver In Collaboration With Bamford Watch Department

As many of you know, the late ’60s and the first half of the ’70s were an era of design experimentation in the watch industry. While Girard-Perregaux might not be the first name on people’s tongues when it comes to funky watches from this period, don’t think the brand didn’t have any. With the Casquette […] Visit Girard-Perregaux Reintroduces The Deep Diver In Collaboration With Bamford Watch Department to read the full article.
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Comments 1

  1. Tomek
    ISO 6425 is real standard, not marketing talk. Good that article mention this. Too many watches claim 'dive ready' but not certified. Unidirectional bezel and screwed crown are not optional if you go deep.

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