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Dive Watches · Page 46

Introducing: The Ulysse Nardin Diver Air Fratello
Apr 3, 2025

Introducing: The Ulysse Nardin Diver Air

We’re used to outlandish creations from Ulysse Nardin, but today’s Diver Air may be the most extreme yet. The brand set out to create the world’s lightest mechanical dive watch and has gloriously succeeded. Intriguingly, several collaborators were brought on board, including materials companies that normally work on automobiles. Ulysse Nardin takes me back to […] Visit Introducing: The Ulysse Nardin Diver Air to read the full article.

[VIDEO] The Tudor Goes Deep with Pelagos Ultra Worn & Wound
Apr 2, 2025

[VIDEO] The Tudor Goes Deep with Pelagos Ultra

Tudor’s most technical dive range receives its most technical entry yet. Over the last few years, we’ve seen the Pelagos expand quite dramatically, starting with the introduction of the FXD series, which has ranged from military-spec via the M.N. to carbon fiber chronographs, to a GMT, to standard varieties, as well as the smaller-wrist-compatible Pelagos 39. For 2025, however, we’re seeing a return or a close relative to the original Pelagos, with a 1000m variant called the Pelagos Ultra. At double the water resistance of the original, 1000m is undoubtedly the headline of the Ultra, but there are many subtle changes to the design that give this new watch its own personality. First, the case is a touch larger at 43mm in diameter (vs 42mm for the original), 52mm lug-to-lug (my measure), and 14.8mm thick. While these dimensions sound imposing, they were more tolerable than expected on the wrist, largely because of the lightweight grade 2 titanium construction. The spacing between the dial and the crystal was reduced to keep the case relatively thin, or at least not thicker than the original. As such, the rehaut was redesigned to be flat and a touch wider. While I am a bit remiss to see the steeply angled rehaut with cutouts of the original get cut, as I found it a particularly enjoyable design that added a contemporary and aggressive edge to the watch, the new version is less distracting and allows for more dial space. In turn, the applied hour markers and hands are la...

Tudor Introduces a New Black Bay 58 in Red, with Some Surprises Worn & Wound
Apr 1, 2025

Tudor Introduces a New Black Bay 58 in Red, with Some Surprises

Tudor returns to the Black Bay 58 in a major way at this year’s Watches & Wonders, with an update inspired by a 1990s prototype that had been nearly lost to time. The latest 58 comes in a bold burgundy colorway, with a bright red dial and matching bezel. It’s a decidedly different approach to the Black Bay 58, which has been, in our minds, a thoughtful reinterpretation of an old fashioned tool watch. This new version is significantly more extroverted in its personality and appearance – it has considerably more flash than your standard issue 58.  The broad strokes of this Black Bay 58 are effectively in line with earlier versions of the watch. It maintains the 39mm case with the same mix of brushed and polished finishing. Circular and rectangular hour markers are generously filled with luminous material, and of course we have the “Snowflake” handset that is common to all Black Bays. But there are a number of small refinements and improvements to this 58 make it feel a bit more contemporaneous with other recent Tudor releases.  First, bracelet selection. For the first time, the Black Bay is available on a five-link, Jubilee-style bracelet. It’s a natural fit for a watch like the 58 and immediately gives it a look that is a bit dressier and less tool oriented. It’s still available on a three-link bracelet as well, but this bracelet is now fitted with Tudor’s T-fit clasp (as is the five-link, and the optional rubber strap). Like the Black Bay 68 we covered ea...

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay 68, the Biggest Black Bay Yet Worn & Wound
Apr 1, 2025

Tudor Introduces the Black Bay 68, the Biggest Black Bay Yet

It’s a big year, literally and figuratively, for the Black Bay. This year, Tudor has introduced the all new Black Bay 68, continuing with a naming convention that began with the Black Bay 58 all those years ago. The new Black Bay 68 fills out the range of vintage inspired Black Bays with an all new size for the range, coming in at 43mm. According to Tudur, the new size was created to meet demand from customers who wanted a dive watch with a larger footprint. After the Black 58 and Black Bay 54 (both under 40mm) and the longstanding “standard” Black Bay coming in at 41mm, the Black Bay 68 represents genuinely new ground for the collection in terms of size, and signals that the small watch trend that many say started with the Black Bay 58 might be coming to an end.  If you’re familiar with the various forms of the Black Bay, there won’t be too many surprises here. The case is stainless steel with a unidirectional black bezel, with dial options in blue and silver. The dials are subtly domed and have a barely-there radially brushed finish, and are matched with large lume filled hour markers. The hands are the now familiar “Snowflake” style launched in 1969. While the case is 43mm, the important thing to note about these watches is that they are proportionally identical to the Black Bay 54 and Black Bay 58. So, in spite of the larger size, they wear in a way that feels quite familiar if you’ve spent any time at all with either of those earlier Black Bays. Accor...

Tudor Adds The Larger Black Bay 68 To Its Extensive Black Bay Lineup Fratello
Apr 1, 2025

Tudor Adds The Larger Black Bay 68 To Its Extensive Black Bay Lineup

In a surprise twist, Tudor goes bigger and bolder in 2025. A completely new introduction at this year’s Watches and Wonders is the 43mm Tudor Black Bay 68. This addition to the brand’s extensive Black Bay lineup gets its name from the year that Tudor came up with the famous Snowflake hand. The brand introduces […] Visit Tudor Adds The Larger Black Bay 68 To Its Extensive Black Bay Lineup to read the full article.

The New Tudor Pelagos Ultra Dives Deeper Than Ever Before Fratello
Apr 1, 2025

The New Tudor Pelagos Ultra Dives Deeper Than Ever Before

Tudor takes its dive watches rather seriously, and the new Tudor Pelagos Ultra is about as serious as they come. The brand has been making divers since 1954. Back then, the deepest-diving model had a humble 100m water resistance rating. Since then, the brand has kept busy evolving, looking to improve its formula. That quest […] Visit The New Tudor Pelagos Ultra Dives Deeper Than Ever Before to read the full article.

Introducing: Tudor’s Burgundy Black Bay 58 And Opaline Black Bay Pro Fratello
Apr 1, 2025

Introducing: Tudor’s Burgundy Black Bay 58 And Opaline Black Bay Pro

Tudor’s releases at Watches and Wonders this year were always going to be a source of excitement for me. As a Tudor owner, I like the brand’s variety of approachable watches at competitive price points. Now we have some updated models in the Tudor Black Bay line to discuss. Today, Tudor has introduced several novelties. […] Visit Introducing: Tudor’s Burgundy Black Bay 58 And Opaline Black Bay Pro to read the full article.

A. Lange & Söhne Plays the Classics with the Minute Repeater Perpetual SJX Watches
Apr 1, 2025

A. Lange & Söhne Plays the Classics with the Minute Repeater Perpetual

Topping A. Lange & Söhne’s 2025 line-up is the Minute Repeater Perpetual. Featuring a compact platinum case and black enamel dial, the new flagship watch of the Saxonia line marks the first time Lange has combined these two classic complications on their own. Limited to 50 pieces in platinum, the Repeater Perpetual is positioned near the top of the current catalogue. Beyond the technical complexity, it’s been endowed with an exceptional white gold and black enamel dial crafted in-house, and features the frosted movement finish that’s often reserved for the brand’s special editions. Initial thoughts It’s always nice to see a brand cover new ground, especially when that ground is the tried-and-true combination of a minute repeater and perpetual calendar. It’s an extravagant, decadent watch that combines one of the most legible perpetual calendar layouts with one of the industry’s most technically sophisticated minute repeaters. Beginning with its compact form, the Repeater Perpetual packs 640 components inside a platinum case that’s just 40.5 mm wide and 12.5 mm thick; roughly the same dimensions as a Rolex Submariner. It features an enamel dial in deep black, which is always a risk, since even the tiniest imperfections tend to stand out vividly. A cynic might point out that the new calibre L122.2 is largely a mashup of a Langematik Perpetual and Richard Lange Minute Repeater, but to do so would be to miss the point. The movement is everything Lange does be...

In-Depth: Rolex Land-Dweller SJX Watches
Mar 31, 2025

In-Depth: Rolex Land-Dweller

The most discussed debut of Watches & Wonders 2025, the Rolex Land-Dweller is an entirely new model with a new case and bracelet, but that’s not why it is significant. While Rolex is conventionally associated with incremental innovation, the Land-Dweller is game changing. Not because of the design, but because it’s equipped with perhaps the ultimate mechanical movement produced at scale in contemporary watchmaking, a calibre that’s the subject of 16 patents. (The finer technical details can be found in our accompanying story.) The cal. 7135 inside the Land-Dweller is a new, sophisticated calibre equipped with an indirect-impulse, double-wheel escapement that’s entirely in silicon – christened Dynapulse – matched with a ceramic balance pivot. And it’s a high-frequency calibre running at 5 Hz or 36,000 beats per hour. Cumulatively, that makes for a superior timekeeper on the wrist. The Land-Dweller debuts in two sizes, 36 mm and 40 mm, in three basic variants: white Rolesor, Everose gold, and platinum. There are also a handful of high-jeweller versions. The Land-Dweller in white Rolesor on Roger Federer’s wrist. Image – Rolex Initial thoughts The Land-Dweller is both surprising and predictable. The styling is surprising; the integrated bracelet echoes historical watches like the Oysterquartz and ref. 5100 Beta 21 but I never expected it. The Land-Dweller looks and feels surprising for a Rolex Oyster. At 9.7 mm it’s the slimmest Oyster Perpetual in the cat...

Ulysse Nardin Debuts Lightest Diver’s Watch SJX Watches
Mar 31, 2025

Ulysse Nardin Debuts Lightest Diver’s Watch

At Watches & Wonders 2025, Ulysse Nardin is taking the covers off the lightest ever mechanical dive watch, the Diver [Air]. Weighing only 52 grams, strap included, UN’s newest diver is unexpected and impressive in a number of ways.  Initial thoughts UN’s engineers have succeeded in marrying lightness with utility in the Diver Air. The case, strap, and the movement in particular, have all been developed to carry as little weight as possible - without compromising structural reliability. At 52 g with the strap, and 46 g without, the Diver Air weighs about as much as 10 sheets of A4 paper. Impressive as it is, however, the Diver Air doesn’t really look the part, which is arguably its biggest weakness. Visually the Diver Air is almost undistinguishable from the standard Diver X Skeleton, which is a shame given that this is entirely different. The result is a missed opportunity in creating something that looks like what it is, an ultra-light performance watch.  The movement, however, looks good in a contemporary manner, with clear sapphire jewels and a clean, industrial finish. The seven grams UN-374 movement At the core of this ultra-light diver lies an in-house movement engineered for both lightness and sturdiness - the UN-374, with 90% recycled titanium bridges. The UN-374 only weighs a staggering 7 g and yet can run for 90 hours on a full wind at a 3 Hz frequency. Based off Diver X Skeleton’s UN-372, the new UN-374 was tweaked to keep its structural stability ...

Comments 1

  1. Tomek
    ISO 6425 is real standard, not marketing talk. Good that article mention this. Too many watches claim 'dive ready' but not certified. Unidirectional bezel and screwed crown are not optional if you go deep.

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