Dive Watches · Page 69

Montblanc at Watches & Wonders 2024: A Zero-Oxygen, Hardcore Dive Watch and More

Zenith Revives the Defy A3648 Diver

Zenith has return to one of its most striking vintage watches with the Defy Revival A3648. A re-issue of the A3648 of 1969, the latest Defy Revival shares the same angular, 37 mm case and distinctive fourteen-sided bezel. While the newly released model shares the styling of the original – as well as the 600 m depth rating – it has been upgraded with modern materials, like a scratch-resistant sapphire crystal insert. Initial thoughts From the Defy Revival A3691 to the Chronomaster Revival, Zenith has frequently turned to its vintage watches for reissues. The brand’s approach to reissues is straightforward: maintain the original aesthetics as much as possible while upgrading them technically modern movements, superior materials, and more robust bracelets. While not a creative formula in any sense, it is an effective one, particularly with interesting and appealing vintage models. This same formula has been applied to the Defy Revival A3648. It is a byproduct of analysing historical blueprints, thereby staying faithful to the original in most aspects, including design and the 600 m depth rating. Priced at CHF7400, the Defy Revival A3648 is a decent value proposition, though not quite to the level that Zenith was historically known for. It’s a faithful vintage re-issue of a distinctive design that’s been updated with modern materials and quality that results in robustness and reliability superior to the vintage original. Tasty Orange The defining characteristics of t...

IWC is Thinking Very Far Ahead with their New Portugieser Eternal Calendar

Watches that do more than a human being is capable of are nothing new. Rolex, Omega, and others make dive watches that are capable of reaching depths that no man or woman could survive. The Rolex Deepsea Challenge is rated to 11,000 meters (which means it’s tested to even greater depths) while the deepest point in the ocean is about 10,900 meters, give or take. That means this particular dive watch can go deeper than any depth possible on the planet. Even that, somehow, feels more practical than IWC’s big release at Watches & Wonders, the Portugieser Eternal Calendar. This is the brand’s first secular calendar, which accounts for leap-year exception rules in the Gregorian calendar that play out over a 400 year span. A calendar complication that no living human will have a chance to observe do its thing in real time is one thing, but it’s the moonphase on this watch that is truly looking ahead: IWC claims it’s accurate to 45 million years. And just think, it wasn’t even ten years ago that the Apple Watch had many in this industry scared that watchmaking could be killed by smart-gadgets. Talk about confidence.  The concept of a secular calendar will be worth a refresher for many, as it’s a truly rare complication that most brands simply don’t attempt given the incredibly long timeframes involved (the last one we discussed in these pages was from indie Furlan Marri). The gist is this: in addition to a leap year every four years, Gregorian calendar needs an ad...

Oris Updates the Aquis Date Across Three Case Sizes with Many Small Enhancements for a More Refined Experience

This year at Watches & Wonders, Oris finds itself focusing primarily on a single collection: the Aquis. For years, the Aquis has carried the torch as the brand’s flagship modern sports watch. A capable diver with an integrated bracelet (it had one before they were cool), the Aquis has been made in a dizzying variety of case sizes and dial variants over the years, with complicated models, limited editions, and even diamonds finding their way to the line. But over all that time, the Aquis itself has never really had a proper reset. That changes this year, with a new, more refined Aquis Date that seeks to improve on the old version in all the ways watch collectors care about. The new Aquis is made of a number of subtle changes that add up to a noticeable, if incremental, improvement. This is not a radical rethinking of the Aquis, but feels more like an admission from Oris that certain elements of the tried and true design could be tweaked for a better overall experience. It’s an approach, frankly, that we think more brands should take. When something is generally pretty good, it makes no sense to kill it and start from scratch. Success over a long period means little iterative changes that make your product better as performance expectations shift, and Oris seems to embrace that.  Of the changes made to the new Aquis, the most important is likely the small tweaks to the case. Oris has redefined the Aquis silhouette by making everything a little more balanced, with lugs t...

Vulcain Introduces New Dial Variants in the Skindiver Nautique Line

Back in March of last year, Zach Weiss reviewed the Vulcain Skindiver Nautique. This was a case where the headline really said it all, but of course the whole review is worth a read for a fuller context. I had some hands-on time with this watch as well, and agree completely with his sentiments. Describing the watch as “very reasonable” is really essential to understanding it. It’s not extraordinary, it’s not a revolution in watchmaking. It’s a deeply adequate and relentlessly normal execution of tried and true sports watch format: the skin diver. And that’s OK! The entire idea of the modern skin diver is really based on the fact that a handful of brands really nailed the design decades ago. It’s not a platform that needs to be played with. There are lots of new versions of this type of watch from a huge variety of brands, and I think “reasonable” is really what most of them should be shooting for.  Vulcain has just announced a total of four new variants of the Nautique Skindiver, and they strive to offer a little more variety than the initial drop from last spring. New dial variants include options in orange, brown, and green, as well as a new reference with a bronze case and black dial, and a very striking variant in yellow gold plate with a dial in a dark shade of blue. This one, I have to admit, is a little outside the bounds of reasonable, and might be striving for something a little more.  All of the new Skindiver Nautique variants have the same 38...

First Look – 4 New Bright and Colourful Vulcain Skindiver Nautique 38mm

In the past, Vulcain rightfully gained fame for its Cricket Alarm models. However, the brand also contributed to the world of diving watches during the 1960s, catering to the rising interest in recreational diving and the need for timepieces that complemented this lifestyle. Recognizing the significance of this aspect of its heritage, the recently revived […]

The new Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 42mm is a more wearable take on the icon

For the first time, a 42mm Fifty Fathoms has entered the standard production catalogue for Blancpain - offering a more wearable option.The post The new Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique 42mm is a more wearable take on the icon appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Yacht-Master 42 Titanium Vs. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique

Blancpain finally released a Fifty Fathoms Automatique in a smaller 42.3mm size for its regular collection. There’s one in rose gold, but we especially thought the titanium version was interesting. Most of all, that’s because it’s the perfect candidate to compete against the Rolex Yacht-Master 42, which since last year, has also been available in […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Rolex Yacht-Master 42 Titanium Vs. Blancpain Fifty Fathoms Automatique to read the full article.

Fratelli Stories: Finding An Omega Seamaster On The Ocean Floor

We all like the idea of finding lost treasure. Today, we get to speak to one of our readers who has turned it into a successful hobby. He has become a watch collector without ever buying a watch. Read on.  In the spirit of reflecting our shared enthusiasm for this hobby, we have been featuring […] Visit Fratelli Stories: Finding An Omega Seamaster On The Ocean Floor to read the full article.

The Doxa SUB 200T, Now With A 39mm Case

Doxa has just announced the new Doxa SUB 200T, one of their most iconic designs in a more compact 39mm case. Read more on TBWS!

Pre-Owned Picks: A Rolex 'Great White' Sea-Dweller, An Omega 'Ed White' Speedmaster 321, And A Black Cartier Tank Must

Plus a Breitling Premier Datora and a limited Panerai Mare Nostrum.

Introducing a More Compact Version of Doxa’s Iconic Diver: the Sub 200T

The word “cult” gets thrown around a lot when discussing Doxa. Their dive watches have a decidedly niche appeal and fans of the brand really love them in a way that sometimes goes beyond casual appreciation. This is a fundamentally good thing for the community whether you’re part of the Doxa cult or not, as inevitably some of that enthusiasm and goodwill spills over into the rest of the hobby. What’s interesting though is that as time passes and Doxa grows, the cult objects have become more mainstream. That’s exemplified perfectly in the new Sub 200T, a more accessible version of the brand’s signature (and perhaps strangest) watch.  The Sub 200T is one of those watches that, once you see it, you’re kind of surprised hadn’t existed until now. The Sub 200T takes the signature case lines and design language of the Sub 300 and shrinks everything down into a more wearable, casual, package. We get the same cushion style case, multi-scale bezel, small dial opening, and even the beads of rice bracelet in a footprint measuring 39mm in diameter and 41.5mm lug to lug (and 10.7mm tall). That’s down from 42.5mm in the Sub 300, so there should be a meaningful difference in how these watches wear.  Beyond the smaller package, Doxa is seemingly trying to cast a wider net in who this watch appeals to by going absolutely full tilt on color options. You can have the Sub 200T in any signature Doxa color you like, plus a new dark green option they’ve dubbed Sea Emerald. A...

Introducing: The Doxa Sub 200T – A Smaller Take On The Classic Doxa Design

A new 39mm case brings updated proportions and new colors to a value-driven addition to the Doxa lineup.

First Look – The New Doxa SUB 200T Collection, Now in a more Compact 39mm Case (Incl. Video)

The design for Doxa’s signature diving watches, labelled SUB (and in particular the emblematic SUB 300 collection), was first introduced in 1966 and proved to be the blueprint for what we know and love today. While the iconic design has been retained over the years, Doxa has been playing around with the overall concept in […]

Introducing: The 39mm Doxa Sub 200T

Doxa is an absolute fan favorite, so when a new release comes to light, it’s bound to make waves. The Sub 200T is an all-new model, but there’s no mistaking it for anything else but a Doxa. This watch should be a big hit for the brand with its smaller size and incredible number of […] Visit Introducing: The 39mm Doxa Sub 200T to read the full article.

S.U.F Helsinki Introduces the “Moomin” Diver

A bestselling franchise launched two years ago, S.U.F. Helsinki’s latest Moomin edition is the Moomin Diver. Based on the brand’s Vetehinen diver, the Moomin diver features an illustration from Moomin and the Comet that depicts the titular character diving. As with past Moomin editions, the diver features a laser-engraved and hand finished dial with lots of Super-Luminova. Initial thoughts The Moomin watches by S.U.F., the affordable sub-brand of Sarpaneva, are fun value propositions that offer a good quality of dial and case work for the price. This is typical of S.U.F. as well as Sarpaneva in their respective price segments. Priced similarly to the very first model at €5,550, the latest edition continues that while introducing a new dial motif. This is a timely change since the original dial design had already been repeated several times, including on the pricier, full-fledged Sarpaneva version. While the latest edition doesn’t have the same level of detail on the dial – it’s mostly engraved as opposed to being substantially open worked – it brings a new look with the dive watch aesthetic. Though the Moomin editions have been repeated several times, perhaps too often, this is an appealing new launch considering the price-performance ratio and relatively small edition size of 52 watches across two dial types. Diving-themed diver’s watch The new diver features a steel dial that reproduces a drawing from Moomin and the Comet, one of the many Moomin books pen...

Singer Reimagined Introduces the Divetrack

As a sister brand of Singer Vehicle Design, the “restomod” outfit specialising in Porsche 911s, Singer Reimagined naturally got its start with auto-racing inspired chronographs, namely the Track 1. Now the brand has pivoted and debuted its first diving watch, the Divetrack Chronograph. Decidedly oversized – the diameter is 49 mm – the Divetrack has the aesthetics of a dive timer, but also the functionality thanks to a clever case and dial construction. And like the Track 1, the Divetrack is powered by the smart AgenGraphe movement that consolidates all of the chronograph indicators onto the central axis. Initial thoughts Oversized dive watches are cool. Watch nerds appreciate them for the technology, design, and function even if no one really uses them for the intended purpose. This applies to the Seiko Tuna, Rolex Deepsea Challenge, and now the Divetrack. At 49 mm in diameter and almost 20 mm high, the Divetrack is unabashedly oversized. It has an appealing instrument-like design along with a clever decompression scale on the dial. And the Agenhor movement inside ranks amongst the most inventive chronograph movements on the market. But the Divetrack is priced at CHF85,000, which is surprisingly high. In comparison, the Track 1 in titanium or aluminium costs about CHF50,000. The number is difficult to justify regardless of how you slice it. Although the movement has been modified for a 24-hour counter, the modification isn’t a major one. Still, the small edition ...

Going Hands-On With The Tudor Black Bay GMT Opaline And The Tudor Black Bay Pro

It’s been almost a year since Tudor released the Black Bay GMT with the opaline white dial. Strangely enough, we never did a hands-on review of the watch. While it essentially was a line extension of the Black Bay GMT, the dial brings a certain praiseworthy attraction. The brand’s second GMT is the Black Bay […] Visit Going Hands-On With The Tudor Black Bay GMT Opaline And The Tudor Black Bay Pro to read the full article.

Blancpain Finally Gives Fifty Fathoms Fans What They’ve Been Asking For

Last year marked the 70th anniversary of Blancpain’s iconic Fifty Fathoms dive watch, and to celebrate they launched three new watches in three acts. Act One was a contemporary take on the Fifty Fathoms in stainless steel, Act Two was a high-tech modern piece geared toward pro divers in titanium, and Act Three was a historical MIL-SPEC interpretation in 9K Bronze-Gold. Despite the critical acclaim, collectors seemed to have been left wanting. There has been an appetite for a contemporary sub 45mm diameter, non-limited-edition version of the Fifty Fathoms for many years, and for 2024 Blancpain is finally making it happen with new 42mm-diameter Fifty Fathoms Automatic models in the permanent collection. They will be offered in both red gold and corrosion resistant grade 23 titanium. The latter is like grade 5 but has lower oxygen, nitrogen, and iron content. It also has better ductility and fracture toughness, which, according to Blancpain, makes it excellent in saltwater environments. Powering these new Fifty Fathoms is the in-house Blancpain Caliber 1315 automatic movement. Its construction includes three series-coupled barrels that can provide a class leading five days of power-reserve. It is elaborately decorated, at least compared to most divers, and has an 18K red gold oscillating weight sporting an NAC coating, whose design is inspired by the rotor of the original 1953 Fifty Fathoms. All of this, of course, is visible through the screw-down sapphire display back. Th...

Watching Movies: Robert Redford Debuts His Rolex 'Red Submariner' Ref. 1680 In The '70s Political Satire 'The Candidate'

Watching Movies turns three today, and so of course our watch-related movie of the week is a Redford film.

This Week In The Shop: Five Of Our Favorite Go-Anywhere, Do-Anything Dive Watches

Watches that are so much more than just divers, from a Blancpain Bathyscaphe to a Seiko Prospex GMT.

The Speake Marin Ripples Infinity Date is One of the Best Named Watches and Coolest Under the Rader Integrated Bracelet Sports Watch Options Around

I have a small obsession with watch naming conventions. I’m absolutely fascinated by the decisions brands make in what to call their watches. Some brands, for example, use only reference numbers, and collectors wind up giving the most popular watches nicknames (Grand Seiko comes to mind, although last year saw a notable exception to the rule). Then there are countless brands that incorporate language of adventure, particularly on high seas, into watch names: the Submariner, the Supermarine, the Sea-Rambler, and on, and on, and on, and on. And of course there are brands that steal a strategy from car manufacturers (or is it the other way around?) and give their watches names in one of the Romance Languages, an attempt to instill a sense of class and taste. But what I like are the simple and punchy names that get right to the root of what the watch is about. Memorable, sometimes funny names that communicate an ethos and make you go, “Oh yeah, of course,” all at once. The Speake Marin Ripples is one of my all time favorites.  The Ripples is Speake Marin’s take on the integrated bracelet sports watch, a category that seems about as far afield as you might get from the brand’s roots, but that’s a story for another day. In my opinion, the Ripple is one of the most distinctive integrated bracelet designs to come on the scene in this recent period during which everyone under the sun has tried their hand at this type of watch. It belongs, I think, in the same conversat...

Just A Minute With The Citizen Aqualand

“Just a Minute” is a short-form video series designed to present all the facts about our favorite products in under 60 seconds. These are easy to consume and provide quick but meaningful rundowns on everything you need to know. As always, we encourage you to join our rewards program to earn points and save with every purchase. The Windup Watch Shop team is also available to schedule a consultation with you and answer any questions you have. It’s not often you get the chance to own an innovative and iconic dive watch, but the Citizen Promaster Aqualand is exactly that. True to its original 1985 design, the modern Aqualand retains its hybrid analog digital display and pressure gauge, design cues that have withstood the test of time and make for an eminently capable dive watch to this day. Thanks to its depth meter and alarm/stopwatch functionality, the Aqualand is the same cool dive watch it was in the mid-1980s. Get the inside scoop by watching our video on the Promaster Aqualand below. “Just a Minute” is a short-form video series designed to present all the facts about our favorite products in under 60 seconds. These are easy to consume and provide quick but meaningful rundowns on everything you need to know. As always, we encourage you to join our rewards program to earn points and save with every purchase. The Windup Watch Shop team is also available to schedule a consultation with you and answer any questions you have. It’s not often you get the chance to ow...

Aquastar’s New Benthos 500 Founder’s Edition is the Release Dive Watch Fans Have Been Waiting For

If you’ve been following the reestablishment of Aquastar over the last few years, today marks an important milestone in the brand’s new chapter. After a series of well regarded divers offering takes on both Aquastar’s actual history and a sort of imagined version of it, we’ve finally come to the Benthos, perhaps the brand’s most famous watch, at least among the cult of divers and sports watch fanatics who have always held the brand in such high regard. This release, the Benthos 500 Founder’s Edition, very much feels like the watch that Aquastar has been building toward for the last few years, and it’s quite impressive in the metal.  First, a little background on the Benthos for those unfamiliar with its history. The Benthos was introduced in 1970 as a diving chronograph, but it uses one of the most uncommon executions of what is a fairly common complication that we can recall. This is a monopusher chronograph with a centrally mounted minute hand, and no chronograph seconds hands. That means that when you activate the chronograph, the user has the strange experience of wondering if anything just happened. But wait a minute, and you’ll see that minute hand tick over to the first minute marker, and the functionality here becomes a little more clear.  For most divers who would need to engage a chronograph underwater, it’s the minutes that truly matter, and a chronograph like this gives you exactly what you need, and none of what you don’t. The other piece...