Quill & Pad
The Pelagos 39, is now more compact, moving from 42mm to 39 mm. Even more impressive and where the most notable change will be felt, the thickness has been reduced from 15mm for the Pelagos 42 down to 11.8 for the Pelagos 39.
Time+Tide
Utility was Alpina's focus for this year's fair, expanding the Seastrong Diver and Alpiner ranges.The post Every Alpina release at Watches and Wonders 2024 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
In the pantheon of modern enthusiast brands, it’s hard to deny that Tudor sits at the top of the heap. One simple explanation for this is that Tudor is really good at giving us what we want - almost. They also have a history of giving us something exceedingly close to exactly what we ask for, with a slight twist, then having us fall in love with it anyway. When Tudor introduced the Black Bay 58, it was a clear winner. If you’ve ever been to an event where watch collectors gather en masse you’re sure to have run into one. But the original black colorway, with its heavily vintage coloring and gilt accents, wasn’t quite the modern aesthetic some people were looking for. That watch came three years later when Tudor dropped the Black Bay 58 Blue kind of out of nowhere on a random day in July 2020 (although pretty much any day that summer would have felt decidedly random). The Black Bay 58 was off like a rocket. So it wasn’t much of a surprise when, in 2021, Tudor released two more versions of the 58. What was a massive surprise was that the two new additions to the lineup were each made in precious metal. Naturally, people had thoughts. I, for one, was on board with the move, and the Black Bay 58 925 Silver is easily one of my favorite Tudors. For as much as people seemed to generally like these watches, there was a clear sense that something was missing. That something was a bracelet. Now, Tudor has solved that problem, at least for the Black Bay 58 18K. In just ab...
Fratello
Today, the Zodiac brand is predominantly associated with dive watches. But if we look back in time, we can find the Zodiac Hermetic family, which hides a few very interesting non-diving models. Among the Valjoux 72-powered chronographs and 24-hour Aerospace Jets sits one very appealing dresser that got my attention about four years ago. In […] Visit #TBT A Virgin-Like Zodiac Hermetic Small Seconds to read the full article.
Monochrome
Despite not being the most spotted watch genre during the Geneva Watch Week – there was a clear focus on smaller, more elegant and colourful timepieces this year – the dive watch remains one of the most important categories, with fierce competition between big manufactures and smaller independent brands. A key element of all watch […]
Hodinkee
The Aquanaut and Nautilus lines have taken a water-resistance hit on paper, but what does that mean from a practical perspective?
Hodinkee
It’s no “blue steel,” but the Aquanaut remains undefeated when it comes to elegant travel complications.
Hodinkee
Plus a Patek Gondolo, and a green JLC Reverso Tribute.
Fratello
Belfast is not high on the list of cities we associate with watches. But the capital of Northern Ireland plays a pivotal part in the story of the young Nomadic Watches. The brand’s name relates to the city’s famous shipbuilding industry. Additionally, Nomadic’s home base is visually integrated into the design of its watches. I […] Visit Hands-On With The Nomadic Maraí 401 Crimson Dawn - A Dive Watch With Roots In The Belfastian Harbor to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Omega just released a new take on its Speedmaster with a vintage-inspired dial for the upcoming Paris 2024 Olympics that begins 100 days from now. Available in Moonshine Gold or stainless steel, the Speedmaster Chronoscope “Paris Olympics 2024” features a silver dial with black registers, along with solid gold numerals and gold-plated hands. Initial thoughts Omega is known for the many commemorative timepieces to mark the Olympics over the years, with the most recent one being Seamaster Diver 300m Paris Olympics Edition. A variety of Omega models have received the Olympics treatment, so the appeal really depends on the specific model, rather than the commemorative aspect. The new Chronoscope certainly looks good, with the gold accents on the dial giving it a more vintage feel, particularly on the steel model. That version brings to mind mid-20th century chronographs that combine gilt hands and markers with contrasting steel cases. With only the dial being unique to this edition, it remains chunky at 43 mm. Although large on paper, it is not all that large in reality, due to the short lugs of the Speedmaster case. I would imagine it to wear reasonably well on an averaged-sized wrist, given that the 42 mm Speedmaster Moonwatch wears well across most wrist sizes. The new Chronoscope ranges from US$9,500 to US$51,400, depending on the metal and strap configuration. Although the value proposition is decent for the steel model, the Moonshine gold version is harder to justif...
Time+Tide
The legendary dive watch brand focuses on the Submersible for Watches and Wonders 2024.The post Every Panerai released at Watches and Wonders 2024 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
There are dive watches that you wear to go diving and there are dive watches that you wear - well, maybe afterward, to the country club where you go to talk about diving. It is this latter category that we’re focusing on with this list - so-called “luxury” dive watches, timepieces that still offer all the functionality and toughness one requires of a diver (all of the watches listed come in at 200 meters or more of water resistance) but do so at a higher level of elegance than elevates them from tool watch to dress watch - i.e., precious metal or exotic-material cases, extra complications, exclusive designs, artisanal executions, or a combination of the above, all of which account for their accordingly lofty price points. Here are a dozen that qualify. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver Price: $30,500, Case Size: 42mm, Thickness: 14.2mm, Water Resistance: 300m, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Audemars Piguet Caliber 4308 Audemars Piguet added a purpose-built dive watch to its Royal Oak Offshore collection of boldly styled sport-luxury timepieces - which spun out of the original, classic Royal Oak series - in 2010. The Royal Oak Offshore Divers feature 42mm cases that are integrated not into metal bracelets (like those of the core Royal Oak models) but into sleek, sporty rubber straps suited for underwater submergence. The cases are water-resistant to 300 meters and the dials, with the hallmark “Mega Tapisserie” textured motif, host a pair...
Time+Tide
Zenith have resurrected the Defy Extreme Diver with full vigour and in-your-face attitude.The post The Defy Extreme Diver brings back a diver to the Zenith catalogue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
There's just something about green at Augusta in April.
Fratello
It’s Sunday morning! To be more exact, it’s the Sunday of Watches and Wonders. It’s the last day of this year’s fair before it’s in the history books. With the Fratello team back home and the Genevan dust clouds starting to settle, it’s time for our first Sunday Morning Showdown featuring one of the novelties […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay Master Chronometer Vs. Rolex Submariner 124060 to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Last year, Tudor revealed an updated version of its classical diver, the Black Bay 41 with a refreshed crown, bracelet, and bezel designs. Initially presented with a rich burgundy-hued bracelet, the brand has now introduced a more monochrome aesthetic, showcasing a new black dial accentuated by silver markers. Initial thoughts This year’s latest release is interesting to say the least. It encapsulates the enduring allure of traditional dive watches, but the modern color scheme takes from the classic allure. Unlike its predecessor, the new model does away with any gilt accents – which bestows this timepiece with a more minimalist and utilitarian aesthetic. True to Tudor’s tradition, the value proposition remains exceptional. Priced at US$4,225 for the steel model with a rubber strap (slightly higher with bracelet options, whether the five-link version or the vintage-inspired riveted bracelet), it compares favourably with similar sports watches. The Black Bay’s winning formula lies in its straightforward design with classic cues, excellent craftsmanship, and accessible price, solidifying its status as a compelling diver choice. Last year’s Black Bay 41 with its burgundy red bezel and gilt accents A black and silver livery One questionable aspect of the revamped design is the similarity it bears to the modern Rolex Submariners. The clean, silvered accented black dial resembles the iconic Submariner more than ever. Save for the new uniform colour scheme, the watch ha...
Worn & Wound
Here’s a thing you may or may not know about Watches & Wonders: there are very few genuine surprises once we hit the Palexpo floor. Almost every brand (Rolex, Tudor, and Patek are the big holdouts) send press releases to media weeks before the show so coverage can be prepped. By the time we walk into a meeting with virtually any brand exhibiting, we already have the key information on their new novelties and are just looking for additional context, hands-on impressions, and an opportunity to get those all important photos. But sometimes brands hold back a release or two, and this will sometimes result in the kind of extremely welcome surprise I experienced when I visited Zenith early this week. One of my favorite brands has dive watches again. We already told you about the Defy Skyline Chronograph, but in addition to that watch Zenith had an even bigger (literally and figuratively) Defy up their sleeve. The new Defy Extreme Diver represents the brand’s long awaited return to the dive watch category, and they’ve done it where you’d expect: within the highly technical and sometimes brazen Defy range. The new Extreme Diver has an imposing 42.5mm titanium case with the characteristic 12 sided bezel common to other Defys, and outside this fixed bezel we get a ceramic dive bezel. The case is rated to an extremely unnecessary 600 meters, which is the same depth as the original Defy diver, the A3648, from 1969. The dial utilizes the star pattern that has become standar...
SJX Watches
Rolex has unveiled a luxe version of one of its top-of-the-line divers, the Deepsea ref. 136668 LB, which boasts a blue lacquer dial paired with a yellow gold case and bracelet. The timepiece makes a significant statement while preserving all the depth performance associated with its steel Deepsea Sea-Dweller. Initial thoughts Rolex has been hinting at forthcoming novelties on social media for a while, sparking anticipation among enthusiasts like myself who speculated that perhaps a new Submariner model was in development. However, the brand surprised us with something pretty unexpected. The new Deepsea features the iconic blue and yellow gold colour scheme reminiscent of past Submariner models, which adds a touch of nostalgia to the release. With a diameter of 44 mm, this watch carries considerable weight, especially with its heavy yellow gold construction, which adds substantial heft to the wrist. Priced at US$52,100, it far surpasses the cost of comparable steel models, which are roughly a third of its price. However, considering the solid yellow gold construction, the price is fitting, considering the current market climate. Blue and yellow gold The latest model is a successor to the steel Deepsea Sea-Dweller. It maintains the renowned pressure-resistant architecture, with a ceramic compression ring and the Ringlock system for the bezel. Sporting a vibrant blue hue, the bezel, compression ring and dial all sharply contrast with the gilded gold lettering on the dial a...
SJX Watches
Tudor unveils the latest addition to its “BB58” range of smaller dive watches series, the Black Bay 58 GMT. Retaining the slim proportions and classic styling of the original model, the new BB58 seamlessly integrates a practical second time zone. The vintage-inspired design gains a burgundy and black “Coke” bezel with gilt accents that’s reminiscent of the classic GMT wristwatches – or more specifically a classic GMT – but with a thoroughly modern, high-spec movement. Initial thoughts Tudor fans have long wanted a more compact GMT, which is arguably the most practical of affordable complications. Before this launch, the dual time zone offerings in the brand’s catalogue were the chunky 41 mm Black Bay GMT and the smaller Black Bay Pro that is 39 mm but quite thick at over 14 mm high. In that context, the new Black Bay 58 GMT is an ideal size: 39 mm but substantially thinner than the Pro. While the proportions are new, the affordability is familiar. Priced at US$4,400 on a strap, and US$200 extra on a bracelet, the Black Bay 58 is likely the best value proposition for a dual time zone watch in this price segment. The only downside of the new GMT is perhaps the colour: red and black might not be for everyone. I for one hold out hope for a one in “Pan Am” colours. Vintage-inspired and travel-ready The BB58 GMT sticks to Tudor’s established formula for its dive watches. That includes “snowflake” hands, with the signature lozenge hand used for both the ...
Deployant
We take a look at the novelties from Tudor, in this year's Watches & Wonders 2024. This includes additions to the Black Bay and Clair de Lune collection.
Fratello
Sometimes when you’re successful, you get a street or a park named after you. When a watch becomes a bestseller, it gets its very own collection. Well, that’s what happened at Montblanc, anyway. In 2022, the brand introduced the Iced Sea dive watch in the 1858 collection. Now the coolest of divers stands on its […] Visit Introducing: The Montblanc Iced Sea 0 Oxygen Deep 4810 And Iced Sea Automatic Date Bronze And Burgundy to read the full article.
Monochrome
Once upon a time, Alpina clearly demarcated between its Alpiner collection geared for land adventures and its Seastrong models designed for underwater exploration. In 2022, Alpina beefed up its Alpiner sports watch with a powerful 200m water-resistant Extreme case with new embossed dial textures. Today, the brand fuses the distinctive Extreme cushion-shaped case with the […]
Fratello
In 2013, Oris released the Aquis Depth Gauge, which spawned a new collection of modern dive watches. This deep diver had a unique mechanical depth gauge, highlighting the brand’s ambition to create practical applications rather than superfluous complications. The Aquis was made a bona fide collection when the core design cues of the Depth Gauge […] Visit Introducing: The Updated Oris Aquis Date Range to read the full article.
Hodinkee
With 600 meters of water resistance, the new Defy Extreme Diver fills a big gap in the Zenith lineup.
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