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Dress Watches · Page 17

Fabian Pellet Debuts with Artisanal L’Essentiel SJX Watches
Oct 23, 2025

Fabian Pellet Debuts with Artisanal L’Essentiel

Fabian Pellet emerged last year as one of the more interesting and unusual independents with the L’Essentiel. Where most new faces in the field are freshly-graduated watchmaking students, Mr Pellet was previously a watchmaking teacher. A Swiss native working in Tokyo since 2022, Mr Pellet is one independent watchmaker to watch. The new version of L’Essentiel looks virtually identical to the three-piece platinum limited run from 2024. This updated model is now housed in a titanium case, and even though the production is inherently limited, it extends beyond three pieces. Initial thoughts The watch itself appears unassuming at first: a simple time-only model with a white enamel dial and a case defined by fairly plain lines. But when taking a closer look at the finer details, especially when turning the piece over, this can’t be dismissed as just another time-only indie piece.   The movement inside the watch is clearly meant to be the center of attention, thoughtfully hidden underneath the simple, pocket watch-like dial. The calibre was crafted fully by hand; Mr Pellet does not use CNC machines even for the cutting of the raw blanks for the mainplate and bridges. The movement is clearly heavily influenced by a historical watches, both visually and in terms of its construction, which adds to its flair. All of its qualities aside, L’Essentiel remains a time-only watch, which has become somewhat of a trope with both new and established independents. It seems like a new ...

Toto Wolff’s Race-Worn IWC Big Pilot XPL to Hammer for Charity SJX Watches
Oct 22, 2025

Toto Wolff’s Race-Worn IWC Big Pilot XPL to Hammer for Charity

A highlight of IWC’s long-standing partnership with Laureus Sport for Good, the organisation’s annual charity auction returns for 2025 with something a little different. Rather than a simple blue-dialed edition of a standard model, IWC is instead offering an existing watch with special provenance. Hammering this Saturday, the Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL Toto Wolff was worn by the Mercedes-AMG team boss himself during the recent Singapore Grand Prix. As ever, all proceeds benefit the Laureus Foundation Switzerland. Bidding is currently live online, and will conclude on October 25th at the Laureus Charity Night in Zurich. Initial thoughts IWC has cultivated an enduring partnership with Laureus Sport for Good dating back to 2005. It’s a good cause that uses sports programmes to improve the lives of children in over 40 countries. For the annual charity auction, IWC typically produces a special model with a blue dial for the charity auction each year. Over time, most of the brand’s collections have been tapped for service, from the Da Vinci to the Portofino and the Portugieser. Naturally, the emblematic Pilot’s Watch has reported for duty over the years as well. For 2025, IWC has departed from its own norms and is offering a single unit of the existing 100-piece Toto Wolff edition of the Big Pilot’s Watch Shock Absorber XPL. The twist is that it’s the actual watch worn over race weekend by team principal Toto Wolff himself, so the printed signature on t...

Cartier Tank a Guichets Review: A Quirky Art Deco Classic Returns Teddy Baldassarre
Oct 20, 2025

Cartier Tank a Guichets Review: A Quirky Art Deco Classic Returns

Usually, when we think of Cartier, our thoughts turn to classical luxury and elegance rather than military-style minimalism. However, the world-famous maison and “jeweler of kings” has long dabbled in both worlds, at least when it comes to watchmaking. And there is no better example of a timepiece that embodies that ethos than the rather unexpected headliner of Cartier’s new releases at the 2025 Watches & Wonders salon: the Cartier Privé Tank à Guichets.  The Tank à Guichets, of course, is an evolution of the original Cartier Tank watch, which is itself a historical example of a modern luxury item with clearly military inspiration (it’s right there in the name, actually).  Throughout its prestigious history since being unveiled in 1917 by its inventor, Louis Cartier, the Tank has evolved in ways that are both subtle and revolutionary and has appeared in forms of which many of us might not even be aware. Some of these more exotic and unusual Tank pieces have found their way back into the main collection in recent years as part of the Cartier Privé series, and it is from this series that the new Guichets, in its three distinctive iterations, does indeed hail.  The Original Cartier Tank But let’s start off by establishing where this watch’s design legacy began. The classic, original Cartier Tank, which didn’t actually go into serial production until 1919, derived its name and its rectangular, curvilinear case shape from the World War I-era Renault FT-17 t...

SJX Podcast: The Titanium Episode SJX Watches
Oct 20, 2025

SJX Podcast: The Titanium Episode

On Episode 15 of the SJX Podcast, Brandon shares insights picked up at Citizen’s Super Titanium event in Paris, where he had the opportunity to speak with the brand’s materials engineer. Still on the theme of titanium, SJX shares his views on the new Cartier Santos in the lightweight metal, and the different strategies of these brands which are playing to their respective strengths. Another big story from this week is the launch of the new Petermann Bédat Reference 1825. Though it’s not made of titanium, it’s a strong third act (and a hint of what’s next) for the brand. Is there still white space in the market for highly finished time-only watches? Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.  

New: IWC Limited-Edition Portugieser Automatic 42 Year of the Horse Deployant
Oct 18, 2025

New: IWC Limited-Edition Portugieser Automatic 42 Year of the Horse

The Limited-Edition Portugieser Automatic 42 Year of the Horse is a commemorative timepiece released by IWC Schaffhausen to mark the upcoming Lunar New Year. Limited to 500 pieces, it features a 42.4mm stainless steel case, a burgundy dial with gold accents, and the IWC-manufactured 52011 caliber offering a seven-day power reserve. The rotor is shaped like a galloping horse, visible through the sapphire caseback. Pricing for this model is listed at approximately €14,800, though regional availability and final retail prices may vary.

The Tissot Classic Dream Now Has a Powermatic 80 Movement Worn & Wound
Oct 17, 2025

The Tissot Classic Dream Now Has a Powermatic 80 Movement

One of my worst traits-according to my husband, my therapist, and the middle school youth pastor-is that I am greedy. Unfortunately, I have to agree. It’s not that I want everything; it’s just that I want choices. Well, luckily for me, dear Reader, Tissot has delivered. Their latest release, the Tissot Classic Dream, powered by the Powermatic 80 movement, now comes in seven new references. For others, this may feel like overkill, but for me? It’s just right. Each of the new Classic Dream models has all the makings of a daily driver. These dress watches clock in at 40mm, but don’t wear large on the wrist. Part of that is thanks to the watch’s proportions: Tissot has given the simple, no-frills dial plenty of room to “breathe,” leaving only the thinnest sliver of stainless steel as the case. Add in a variety of dial colors and metal options-yellow gold PVD, rose gold PVD, blue sunray, black sunray, you name it-and there’s truly something for every style. And if that’s not enough, each watch comes with the option of a leather strap or a bracelet. It’s a Swiss buffet of options, if you ask me. The real star here is the Powermatic 80 movement, powering the Classic Dream series for the first time. As Tissot notes, this makes Swiss automatic watches even more accessible to a broader audience. The Powermatic 80 promises (you guessed it) up to 80 hours of power reserve and consistent performance for all-day, everyday wear, with an average daily precision...

Serica Doubles Down On Vintage Charm With The Parade Ref. 1174 Linen Series Fratello
Oct 16, 2025

Serica Doubles Down On Vintage Charm With The Parade Ref. 1174 Linen Series

Late last year, Serica released the stylish Parade ref. 1174. It was the French brand’s first step in the realm of dress watches, and it garnered much praise. Now, Serica takes the Parade a step further with two linen dials, transporting us to the 1960s and ’70s, when linen dials were common in the watch […] Visit Serica Doubles Down On Vintage Charm With The Parade Ref. 1174 Linen Series to read the full article.

Comments 2

  1. Anonymous
    the whole point of a dress watch is that it disappears on your wrist. precious metal cases, minimal dial, two hands. that's the formula.
    1. Anonymous replying to Anonymous
      totally agree on the invisibility factor, but i'd push back on "two hands only." a good three-hander with a clean dial still disappears just fine. it's really about restraint, not the hand count.

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