Dress Watches · Page 17

The New Bremoir South Beach, and the Influence of Art Deco Design

Virtually every watch enthusiast is familiar with Art Deco, even if they don’t know it. Art Deco, short for Arts décoratifs, first appeared in Paris in the 1910s and spread across the globe over the following two decades. You may not be familiar with Art Deco’s principles - bold geometric forms and streamlined, mechanical aesthetics, among them - but you are almost assuredly familiar with some of its most famous designs, like the Cartier Tank and JLC Reverso. Worn & Wound contributor and Art Deco enthusiast Christoph McNeill considers Art Deco “the pinnacle of design,” and says he loves the beauty of the Machine Age design movement’s expression of curves and lines, obsession with mechanical aesthetics, and “streamline” nature. Wristwatches, which became popular about the same time Art Deco came onto the scene, was a natural medium for Art Deco design. “Because they’re little, tiny machines, right? said McNeill. “It sort of went hand-in-hand.” Vintage Art Deco watches from Christoph’s personal collection So, what does Art Deco design look like in watches?  “It means clean lines, very specific fonts,” said watch collector and seller extraordinaire Eric Wind. “I think of a lot of rectangles, squares, things like that. Less round, unless it’s round within a rectangle. A lot of black on silver. I think of that kind of high shine chrome when I think about Deco as well. More silver than gold.” Wind cites “a lot of Pateks from the 20s and ...

Xu Beihong Immortalised in Enamel on Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso

One of the most famous Chinese artists of the modern era, Xu Beihong is best known for his ink paintings of horses and birds, which are amongst the most valuable examples of 20th century Chinese art. Three of those equine works have been reproduced in miniature enamel on the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Enamel “Xu Beihong”. Presented in the classic Grande Taille case size, this limited edition trio continues Jaeger-LeCoultre’s longstanding tradition of transforming the case back of the Reverso into a blank canvas for art. Past works that have been miniaturised for the Reverso include Claude Monet’s Venice paintings and Shahnameh, an epic poem of ancient Persia. Initial thoughts Like other miniature enamelled Reversos, the Xu Beihong trio is impressive. The original artworks are already beautiful, and they have been reproduced in exceptionally fine detail. Even if you don’t like the works, the enamelling is clearly top quality. But like the other recent enamel Reversos, the Xu Beihong trio is expensive in comparative terms. The retail price for similar watches was almost half today’s level six years ago. This is not unique to JLC of course. But JLC doesn’t have the cachet, after a few slow years, for such strong pricing, unlike say, Patek Philippe or a hot indie brand. That’s not entirely fair since they are beautiful watches with finely executed miniature enamelling, but it is the state of affairs. Two Horses Horse running and standing Notably, this is ...

Hands On: The Cartier Santos in End-to-End Titanium

In a first, Cartier has just unveiled the Santos de Cartier LM in titanium. Its flagship sports watch now features a case and matching bracelet in matte, bead-blasted titanium – specifically grade 23 titanium – while retaining all of the other familiar Santos design elements, including the exposed screws and traditional silvered dial. The Santos in titanium is powered by the same industrial 1847 MC movement found in its steel counterpart, and costs about 20% more, but has a great deal more tactile appeal. The watch is large, lightweight, and low-key. Initial thoughts The Santos was originally conceived as a sports watch in 1904, albeit not of the sort known today. The original was an aviator’s watch, but a tiny and thin watch more comparable to a 21st century dress watch. That history, however, meant that Cartier has rolled out several sporty-ish versions of the Santos in the past. It’s surprising that it took Cartier this long to put together a Santos in titanium. The smooth, blasted case finish has a great deal of tactile appeal, and the muted, matte aesthetic is equally appealing. Some might see this as being way too similar to the steel model – the two are indistinguishable at a distance – but that is part of its appeal. Almost twins, titanium (left) with a bead-blasted finish, and steel with a brushed finish and polished bezel Though the material is different, the exterior finishing is almost identical to that of the steel model, except that the brushed fi...

Introducing: A. Lange Söhne Saxonia Thin In Two New Onyx-Dialed Limited Editions (Live Pics)

Two upsized models in Lange's two most precious metals, each limited to 200 pieces.

Introducing – The New A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin Onyx Editions, in Honeygold or Platinum

First introduced in 2011 and refreshed in 2016, the Saxonia Thin has always been the most distilled expression of A. Lange & Söhne’s philosophy of elegance, reducing watchmaking to its essentials with just two hands and a perfectly judged sense of proportion. This year, the manufacture presents two new special editions that bring a modern […]

A. Lange & Söhne Launches Two New Saxonia Thin Special Editions

A. Lange & Söhne’s Very-Thin Saxonia Gets an Onyx Makeover

Almost exactly a year after the Lange 1 with an onyx dial, A. Lange & Söhne is following up with the Saxonia Thin Onyx. It’s essentially an upgraded version of Lange’s simplest and most affordable model, replacing the conventional silver dial with one of polished onyx stone. Available in either platinum or Honeygold – each is limited to 200 pieces – the Saxonia Thin Onyx is even more of a formal dress watch than its regular production counterpart. Notably, both variants are unique editions of the model as neither platinum or Honeygold is part of the standard offering. Initial thoughts Last year’s Lange 1 30th Anniversary with an onyx dial was an exceedingly simple but extremely appealing watch. Lange has applied the same formula to the Saxonia Thin with equal success. Admittedly, the makeover isn’t imaginative or novel, but the result is striking. The Saxonia Thin Onyx is utterly simple yet unusually reflective thanks to the polished stone dial. The look and feel is that of an ideal black tie watch. It’s probably a bit too concise and shiny for everyday wear, but I wouldn’t mind one on the wrist. Choosing between the two is difficult. They are very different yet very much the same. Both, in fact, retail for exactly the same. The platinum version has a slight edge for me, simply because of general preference for the metal. The new dial and case metal, however, come at a hefty premium. The standard model in gold retails for a bit under US$25,000, while the o...

New onyx dials for Lange Saxonia Thin in Honeygold and Platinum

Lange releases additions to their Saxonia Thin collection with two references, both with onyx dials. One in Honeygold and the other in platinum.

A. Lange & Söhne gets ready for black tie season with onyx-dialled Saxonia Thins in Honeygold and platinum

Limited to 200 pieces for each metal, these dressy Langes in Honeygold and platinum are understated show-stoppers.The post A. Lange & Söhne gets ready for black tie season with onyx-dialled Saxonia Thins in Honeygold and platinum appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Another Masterclass in Simplicity: A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin Onyx Limited Editions

A. Lange & Söhne expands its Saxonia lineup with two striking new versions of the Saxonia Thin. Available in 18K Honeygold and 950 platinum, these limited editions are paired with glossy onyx dials, showcasing a minimalist design taken to its most sophisticated extreme. The black gemstone surface gives the Saxonia Thin Onyx an even more […] Visit Another Masterclass in Simplicity: A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Thin Onyx Limited Editions to read the full article.

Omega Speedmaster vs Seamaster: The Icons Compared

If you're relatively new to the watch collecting game and are ready to graduate to your first Omega watch, you're probably pondering a question that has confronted many others before you: Speedmaster or Seamaster? Spaceworthy historical chronograph or tough but stylish diver? Buzz Aldrin or Jacques Cousteau? The official watch of NASA or the official watch of James Bond? Both of these megapopular Omega watches have rich, amazing stories to tell and both today offer a plethora of options in terms of colorways, materials, and even added complications - all while still remaining true to their heritage. In this feature, we compare and contrast the Omega Speedmaster vs Seamaster in the pursuit of helping prospective buyers make a (hopefully) more informed decision on their first - or next - Omega watch.  Omega Speedmaster vs Seamaster: Far From Their Roots In terms of seniority as a product family, the Omega Seamaster has almost a decade on its chronograph sibling. The Seamaster as we know it today is one of the most iconic of dive watches, but in 1948, when Omega introduced the first model by that name, the “dive watch” as we know it in the modern sense didn’t really exist. The original Omega Seamaster was positioned in contemporary advertisements as a watch for “town, sea, and country” - a dress watch for gentlemen that was distinguished from its many competitors by its adoption of a new waterproofing system that Omega had developed for the watches it produ...

SJX Podcast: Quest of Time

On episode 11 of the SJX Podcast, SJX and Brandon Moore discuss the monumental La Quête Du Temps astronomical clock that Vacheron Constantin just unveiled in Paris alongside the companion Quest of Time wristwatch. We also tackle Tudor’s first moon phase complication and what it means for the brand’s collection of dress watches. SJX also shares his views on the news that Rolex chief executive Jean-Frédéric Dufour will be giving the keynote at Dubai Watch Week, a move that’s largely unprecedented for the industry’s most impenetrable brand. We also chat about the other big news in the world of watch fairs, Audemars Piguet’s return to Watches & Wonders in 2026. Last but not least, we discuss what Girard-Perregaux’s new movement platform might reveal about the future of the brand. Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and Youtube.  

Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak Chronograph RD#5, a Thin Watch with Tall Ambitions

Audemars Piguet (AP) reinvents the chronograph with the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph RD#5. Inside the titanium and palladium BMG case – standing just 8.1 mm high – is the cal. 8100, a new take on the chronograph mechanism that employs spring-loaded racks to gather and store energy. The RD#5 is the fifth and final instalment in the “RD” series of watches that underline the impressive technical know-how of AP, particularly its Le Locle manufacture that evolved from Renaud & Papi (APRP). Conceived with the goal of creating a chronograph that is extra slim and easy on the fingers, the RD#5 boasts exceptionally light and comfortable pusher feel, an instantaneously-jumping minutes counter, and an exceptionally slim profile (thanks in part to peripheral winding), all while remaining amenable to industrial-haute horlogerie manufacturing. It’s one of the most technically interesting debuts of 2025, and we explain AP’s new take on the chronograph in detail below. The cal. 8100 with its unorthodox chronograph and peripheral rotor Initial thoughts Outwardly just another Royal Oak, with the same ideal proportions and class-leading bracelet as the iconic “Jumbo”, the RD#5 is actually one of the most innovative mechanical chronographs in recent years. Perhaps the only comparison for out-of-the-box chronograph construction is AgenGraphe that was unveiled almost a decade ago. The watch was evidently developed with two goals in ...

Review: The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater

Jaeger-LeCoultre unveils the new Reverso Tribute Minute Repeater with an enameled and guilloched dial on one side and an openworked dial on the other.

Patek Philippe Calatrava Review: The Quintessential Dress Watch?

More than 90 years ago, Patek Philippe launched the watch that would become its signature, the legendary Calatrava - informed by Bauhaus simplicity, conceived of economic pragmatism, and boldly establishing the template for scores of men’s dress watches to follow. Today’s Calatrava collection is vast, comprising numerous high complications, but the basic time-only dress version remains the gateway drug for many a budding Patek enthusiast. In 2025, Patek Philippe unveiled the latest version, the salmon-dialed Ref. 6916, which represents the culmination of many decades’ worth of evolution on both the aesthetic and technical sides. Here is the story behind the Calatrava, and why it has become an undisputed icon of understated luxury. Reference 96 (1932) In the throes of the Great Depression, a new era was dawning for one of the great horological houses of Switzerland. Like much of the rest of the watch industry, Patek Philippe, which traced its prestigious history all the way back to 1839, had fallen on hard times by 1932. That was the year that brothers Jean and Charles Stern, founders of Fabrique de Cadrans Stern Frères, a successful Swiss dial-making factory and a longtime supplier for Patek Philippe, acquired the latter company and swiftly began the work of updating its product portfolio. In a modern age increasingly dominated by the wristwatches that had surged in popularity since the end of World War I, Patek’s output still largely consisted of ornate, highl...

Hands-On With Two Praesidus Victory Watches - Champagne And Classic

About a month ago, Dave wrote about a new series of dress watches from Praesidus. This was a first for the young brand that usually focuses on military-themed field watches and chronographs. But even if it is a dress watch, it would not be a Praesidus without a link to a historical military event. The […] Visit Hands-On With Two Praesidus Victory Watches - Champagne And Classic to read the full article.

David Candaux Thinks Differentially with the DC12 MaveriK

After a few quiet years, David Candaux has introduced the DC12 MaveriK – the brand’s fourth model and its first without a tourbillon. A deceptively complicated time-only watch, the DC12 features twin escapements linked by a differential, a mechanism deeply rooted in the twentieth century history of the Vallée de Joux. Housed in an organic 39.5 mm titanium case, the DC12 is the most affordable watch yet from the Le Solliat-based watchmaker, but retains the brand’s signature push-button crown below the dial. Initial thoughts An experienced constructor who can count the MB&F HM6 and Jaeger-LeCoultre Hybris Mechanica à Grande Sonnerie among his credits, David Candaux launched his eponymous brand in 2017. But he would be the first to tell you it was not an easy start, managing to sell just 14 watches during his first four years in business. This is not uncommon in the world of independent watchmaking; look around at some of the most popular independent brands today and you’ll hear a similar story about their early days. Mr Candaux’s business subsequently picked up some momentum, and in the past four years the brand claims to have made an additional 42 pieces. If true, it’s an encouraging sign for a watchmaker with something of a chequered past as an independent constructor, who is said to have had difficulty meeting obligations to client brands. In some ways, the DC12 is the embodiment of this journey, being simpler and cheaper than Mr Candaux’s previous models....

Tudor’s First-Ever Moon Phase Wristwatch

In a surprise launch from a brand best known for its dive watches, Tudor just rolled out the 1926 Luna. It’s a thinnish, 39 mm dress watch with a moon phase – a first for Tudor – as well as a date, though in the typical Tudor style the case is still rated to 100 m and fitted to a solidly constructed steel bracelet. And unusually for a new launch from Tudor, the 1926 Luna is equipped with an ETA (or Sellita) calibre, which means lower specs than models powered by Tudor’s in-house movements, but also substantially more affordable at just US$2,800 or CHF2,400. The 1926 Luna debuts in three dial colours, including a champagne iteration that was conceived with the help of Jay Chou, a Taiwanese singer who’s one of the most famous musicians in the Mandarin-speaking world. Initial thoughts Tudor has long excelled at sports watches with high specs and low prices – making them some of the best value propositions out there – but dress watches have always been a weakness. The brand has made several attempts at dress watches with mixed results. The 1926 Luna, on the other hand, is much more promising. The design is classical, even a little conservative, but the look is appealing. The brushed dial in metallic colours give this a much more modern look than the rest of the 1926 line, which appears a little dated. Purists will complain about the date window, and it probably looks better on a leather strap than a bracelet, but the 1926 Luna is a strong proposition in its price...

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Reverso Tribute Enamel ‘Xu Beihong’

Seiko Tank Review: This $210 Dress Watch Is A Hidden Gem

Seiko has no shortage of dress watches, many of which come from the Presage collection, which boasts some of the best values out there. That said, I recently came across a watch that not only comes from the Japanese brand's more basic, entry-level Essentials collection, but is actually the cheapest Seiko out there at the moment. Yes, the Seiko SWR064 is affectionately dubbed the Seiko Tank for obvious reasons, but there is something distinctly Japanese about it. I had my initial doubts about this watch, but when factoring in the design, style, and price, there was no real way of getting around the fact that this is a starter dress watch that exudes value. Let's get into why. Seiko "Tank" Case The case of this Seiko “Tank” is done in stainless steel, with a gold-plated finish that really fits in with the retro styling. I’m usually really turned off by gold-plating but the cohesiveness with the dial elements pulls it together. As for the size, it measures 27.9mm wide, 38.5mm tall, and 6.7mm thick (30 meters of water resistance). For the sake of comparison, the Cartier Tank Louis “Extra Large” comes in at 27.75mm wide, 38.1mm tall, and 8.18mm thick, so the sizes are very close. There’s not a lot of chatter about this watch out there but I did notice some people say it’s too big to be anything like a Tank, which is demonstrably false. The similarities don’t stop there, as the positioning of the brancards is similar - though I do wish they were just a little b...

Introducing: The Nicolas Delaloye Renaissance In Tantalum

Independent watchmaking is often most interesting when it balances tradition with something fresh. That is exactly what Nicolas Delaloye has done with the Renaissance. On paper, it’s a classical dress watch with an enamel dial and a hand-wound movement. However, the case is made of tantalum, one of the most intriguing and difficult metals to […] Visit Introducing: The Nicolas Delaloye Renaissance In Tantalum to read the full article.

Introducing: The Ming 37.05 Lunatic

Ming is probably best known for its simple, time-only watches. After all, these are the types of pieces responsible for the small brand’s dramatic rise in popularity. However, the eight-year-old brand has offered chronographs, GMTs, worldtimers, and other complications. In 2021, the first Ming watch with a date indicator arrived. It also included a moonphase […] Visit Introducing: The Ming 37.05 Lunatic to read the full article.

Watch Bezels: Every Type Explained

If you’re new to your appreciation of fine watches, you have undoubtedly read a lot of references to and heard a lot of opinions about watches’ bezels. It is somewhat of an esoteric term but it describes something very simple and essential. The bezel is the front part of the case (often but not always ring-shaped) that frames the dial and secures the crystal. Bezels can be made of the same material as the case middle and/or the caseback, but can also be made of a different material. Here we run down the various types of watch bezels you’re likely to encounter. Polygons and Exposed Screws Watch cases, of course, are not uniformly round, which means that bezels, the front-facing parts of those cases, can also be found in a variety of shapes - sharply squared or rectangular, like the Cartier Tank and Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso (above); softy cushion-shaped, like the Panerai Luminor and Vacheron Constantin Historiques American 1921; oval-shaped, like the Breguet Reine de Naples and other luxury ladies’ models; tonneau (“barrel”-shaped), like the Hublot Spirit of Big Bang and many Richard Mille models; and a host of others that combine elements of these and other polygonal shapes.  The shape that has proven to be the most popular and influential is the octagon: eight-sided bezels have proliferated ever since Audemars Piguet launched the Royal Oak (above) in 1972, and watchmakers have also dabbled in other unconventional shapes: the sharply faceted bezel of the Zeni...

Grand Seiko After Dark, “Moonlit Birch” SLGW007

Grand Seiko has been fairly quiet over the summer, but has just unveiled the latest addition to its Evolution 9 collection, the “Moonlit Birch” SLGW007. Effectively a new variant of the “Birch Bark” SLGW003 with a steel case and navy blue dial, the Moonlit Birch is a competent alternative to its titanium stablemate. In other words, it’s an attractive new livery for what was already a compelling watch, and retains its best characteristics including a nuanced and ergonomic case, gorgeous dial furniture, and the brand’s latest manually wound cal. 9SA4 movement. Initial thoughts The original “Birch Bark” launched last year and was one of the standout releases at Watches & Wonders due to its elegant case profile and impressive new movement. The Moonlit Birch is identical in most respects, but the case is stainless steel, rather than titanium, and the dial is finished in navy blue instead of bright white. Despite these modest differences, the Moonlit Birch is appealing in its own right. The dial texture is subtle, but it’s enough of a Grand Seiko calling card to prevent the watch from looking too generic; a common trap for time-only dress watches. The stainless steel case exhibits the brand’s Evolution 9 styling, which gives the Moonlit Birch a bold, angular presence. In answer to the demand for slimmer options from Grand Seiko, the dimensions are nearly ideal, 38.6 mm in diameter and just under 10 mm thick. The watch is powered by the cal. 9SA4, which is pa...