Dress Watches · Page 20

Celebrating The Cartier Tank’s Evolving Legacy With The New Tank Américaine European Limited Edition

Few watches have transcended time, trends, and geography quite like the Cartier Tank. The prototype emerged in 1917, during the turmoil of World War I, and displayed design inspiration from the robust geometry of the Renault FT-17 tanks on the Western Front. The original Tank was Louis Cartier’s bold vision of modern elegance. Its clean […] Visit Celebrating The Cartier Tank’s Evolving Legacy With The New Tank Américaine European Limited Edition to read the full article.

Atelier Wen’s Ancestra 蛟 (Jiāo) Reimagines The Dress Watch With Chinese Myth And Mastery

Introducing the Ancestra, a New Dress Watch From Atelier Wen

Since 2022, you could be forgiven for thinking of Atelier Wen as “the Perception company.” The brand didn’t start with their popular integrated bracelet sports watch, but as the demand for these types of watches grew, Atelier Wen has done their best to keep the Perception at the forefront of the conversation. They’ve done this through small runs of new dial colors and limited editions with various partners that allow them to play not just with color but the guilloche work that is the Perception’s calling card.  But it was never Atelier Wen’s goal to make the Perception their own version of the Royal Oak, a watch that completely defines the brand to the point that other collections are barely playing second fiddle. The conceit of the brand has always been to celebrate traditional craft techniques through the lens of Chinese culture. Look at their first release, the porcelain dialed Odyssey, alongside the Perception and you begin to see the brand’s vision more clearly. Now, a new collection has been unveiled, that will hopefully continue to broaden the brand’s appeal.  The Ancestra is a rather ambitious dress watch that’s quite complex in its design, but in a somewhat under the radar way. The centerpiece of the watch is the 925 silver dial which incorporates two traditional artistic crafts: hand hammering and grand feu enamel. The dial is produced by Kong Lingjun, a master Chinese enameler. After the dial is hammered, Lingjun gets to work on the enamel pr...

An Interview With Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO Jérôme Lambert

The Reverso took a prominent spot during Watches and Wonders 2025. Not only were the new Reverso watches the highlight of the Jaeger-LeCoultre booth, but they were also the talk of the town. Earlier this year, before Watches and Wonders, I traveled to Jaeger-LeCoultre’s headquarters in Le Sentier to see the new Reverso collection in […] Visit An Interview With Jaeger-LeCoultre CEO Jérôme Lambert to read the full article.

Stowa General Manager Kevin Müller Continues the Brand’s Long Enthusiast Legacy

Change is a scary thing. Change at a small, enthusiast-favorite brand is downright terrifying. As watch collectors and enthusiasts, we’re constantly on the lookout for the next thing - the new exciting brand, the unexpected novelty, the rising watchmaker yet to be truly discovered. But that search for the ‘new’ is only possible thanks to the reliable backstop certain brands have built for enthusiasts since the modern enthusiast market developed in the latter part of the 20th century. Stowa is absolutely one of these backstop brands. A reliable step on the ladder for developing enthusiasts, Stowa - which was founded in 1927 but has existed in its modern form since 1996 - has sat squarely at the heart of the watch community as long as I’ve been interested in watches. As long as I’ve been aware of them, Stowa has been the place to go for high-quality, affordable pilots’ and marine watches, and has paired those standards with elegant Bauhaus-inspired dress watches and chronographs (among other things). That much is absolutely still true, but you’d be forgiven for expressing concern when, in 2021, Jörg Schauer (who had owned and operated the brand since 1996) sold Stowa to Tempus Arte, the German watch group best known for their ownership of Dresden-based Lang & Heyne (who in turn are best known for their highly finished tri-lugged case architecture). Since then, there has been a tremendous amount of hemming and hawing over the existential question of Stowa...

A Rare Bird: Credor Introduces the Goldfeather Tourbillon

Credor is a brand that even after several years of writing about watches professionally still feels truly exotic and mysterious to me. Most brands, even those at the very high end, are fairly easy to peg once you spend some time with the watches and do all the research that comes along with learning about these things. But Credor is so rare in the United States, and so niche in terms of its appeal, it’s a brand that has eluded me even as it fascinates me. It’s also feels in some ways like it’s multiple brands in one. They make the most complicated and extravagant watches under the very large Seiko umbrella, but an alert set for “Credor” on WatchRecon returns endless affordable and quite beautiful quartz dress watches, along with the odd contemporary Spring Drive powered piece. All made, of course, for the Japanese market.  Last week, Credor introduced a watch that will probably not be seen in my WatchRecon alerts anytime soon, sitting at the opposite end of the spectrum from those affordable dressy pieces. The new reference is GBCF999 and is part of the Goldfeather collection, a series of very refined dress pieces that explore a variety of decorative arts in watchmaking. The Goldfeather Tourbillon, as it’s officially known, is the first time a tourbillon has been featured in the collection, and the watch also incorporates a number of other advancements in decoration and iterations to the Goldfeather case design.  We have to start, of course, with the dial, wh...

Rolex Submariner Review

The Rolex Submariner enjoys a nearly impeccable resume these days, and is largely seen as the modern dive watch archetype, having first set the template in 1954. The Submariner has seen a steady evolution during its production span, and remains essentially the same today as it was in the ‘50s and ‘60s. It’s a simple watch to understand and enjoy, and while modern Rolex aren’t quite the same function-forward tools they once were, the Submariner remains a symbol of that connection. It’s also just as capable as ever. There have been many transitional references throughout the Submariner’s life, but there is one reference in particular that has drawn the ire of the enthusiast community, and that is the reference 114060 produced between 2012 and 2020. Today, I’ll be taking a look at why that is, and offering a few words in defense of this outlier.  Rolex Submariner 114060 Case and Wearability The Submariner has been a ~40mm watch since the late ‘50s, and while the reference 124060 officially changed that, moving to a 41mm diameter, it was the 114060 before it that was the first to really push the envelope of that label. While the shiny new ceramic bezel got most of the attention when this generation of the Submariner was introduced, it was the new so-called "muscle case" that would raise eyebrows. Rolex doesn’t generally succumb to trends, but it’s worth noting that this period was marked by increasing case sizes, and as a result, the 114060 (and its more c...

Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Date in Pink Gold

A. Lange & Söhne refreshes its arguably most avant-garde collection with the Zeitwerk Date in pink gold matched with a dark grey dial. The new Zeitwerk Date joins the existing model in white gold as a regular production model, and retains the L043.8 movement featuring the signature digital time display driven by a constant force mechanism. The Zeitwerk Date is one of Lange’s simplest watches in terms of information displayed – just the time and date – but stands out as one of the brand’s most technically complex creations. Despite the low volume of production and esoteric mechanics, the Zeitwerk is also one of Lange’s most iconic models, alongside the Lange 1 and Datograph, thanks to its striking design that departs from the usual aesthetics of the normally staid brand. Initial Thoughts While the original Zeitwerk Date in white gold was the first of the second-generation Zeitwerk, bringing with it sweeping changes to the Zeitwerk movement, the new model is stylistic variation that serves to fill a gap in the collection. It offers more choice (actually just a binary choice) for someone looking for a Zeitwerk that is more complex than the base model, but not ready to go all the way to the Zeitwerk Minute Repeater that costs five times as much. The original Zeitwerk Date was a good, perhaps even great, watch inside and out, and this is too – though it could probably could have come a little sooner. It’s still a large watch, but the bulk is easy to justify consi...

Introducing: The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Date In Pink Gold With A Gray Dial

In 2009, the German brand A. Lange & Söhne surprised the world with a mechanical digital watch based on a clock in an opera house in Dresden. A decade later, the watchmakers from Glashütte in Saxonia presented an even more digital version of that watch, the white gold Zeitwerk Date. Why was it more digital? […] Visit Introducing: The A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Date In Pink Gold With A Gray Dial to read the full article.

Elliot Brown Introduces the Colorful New Chromatic Collection of Rugged, Vintage Inspired Quartz Dive Watches

One of the brands I’ve most enjoyed getting to know through our Windup Watch Fairs is Elliot Brown. Based in the UK, the brand offers an almost overwhelming variety of purpose built tool watches in a frequently sober, no-nonsense design language. The watches remind me at times (in a good way) of those you might have come across when the “big watch” trend was at full steam and brands sought to capitalize on the popularity of Panerai and others who traded in a hyper-masculine approach to watch design. Elliot Brown’s watches are quite a bit more considered, however, and they’ve attracted the attention of tool watch enthusiasts for their authentic perspective, undeniably solid build quality, and a pretty compelling value as well.  Their latest release, the Chromatic Collection series of Bloxworth Heritage divers, is both a great example of what Elliot Brown has been excelling at in recent years, and a confident step in a slightly different direction. If you scroll through the watches in Elliot Brown’s catalog on their website, you’ll see lots of watches in muted tones: black, dark green, navy blue. Simple dials designed for easy legibility as opposed to flash. But the Chromatic Collection adds a welcome bit of color to the brand’s vintage inspired diver with four new references that emphasize color and feel tailored to summer wear.  The four new variants include the bold Bloxworth Orange, Bloxworth Seaglass Blue, Bloxworth Drunk Tank (with pink accents), and ...

First Look – The Stylish Van Speyk Courage

Classical dress watches never go out of style, and can come in all sorts of shapes, sizes and levels of complexity. Generally, the more complex a watch becomes, the more expensive it will be. But, every now and then, something comes along that gives you a bit more than just the running time, without going […]

Up Close: Patek Philippe Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Ref. 6159G

Just launched earlier this year, the Patek Philippe Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Ref. 6159G-001 is the latest in a long line of perpetual calendars with retrograde date, dating to 1993 in the modern day and even further with vintage watches. Though essentially identical in terms of function and display, the ref. 6159G is the most modern take on the concept to date, while being entirely improved in terms of the movement and case. The key elements that distinguish the ref. 6159G are the dial and case: the translucent sapphire dial is tinted in grey and black, while the case sports a bezel and case back finished with clous de Paris guilloche. It’s an unusual combination, but appealing overall, although some elements, like the generous dose of lume, feel out of place. Initial thoughts Patek Philippe’s catalogue is still mostly classically oriented, with watches like the Calatrava ref. 6196P capturing the traditional Patek Philippe style. But the brand has been moving towards a more modern aesthetic. Not all the attempts in the direction have been successful, but the ref. 6159G fortunately manages to do it well. Being modern in flavour also sets the ref. 6159G apart from its predecessors like the ref. 5159. While earlier generations of the retrograde perpetual calendar were fairly evolutionary in style, the ref. 6159G is visually unique. Fundamentally, the ref. 6159G is not exceptionally novel – but it looks good. The hobnail bezel and sapphire dial is a surprising combi...

Tusenö’s SuperVintage offers a fresh new blend of old-school looks

Swedish brand Tusenö has made a bold move, departing from sports watches to shaped dress watches with this stylish cocktail-inspired piece.The post Tusenö’s SuperVintage offers a fresh new blend of old-school looks appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A Closer Look: Patek Philippe Calatrava 8-Day Ref. 5328G

The Evergreens – The Complete History of the IWC Big Pilot Collection

We’ve recently reviewed the history of what is probably the most emblematic collection from IWC, the Portugieser. A range that has been around since the 1930s, it somehow encapsulates everything IWC is known for: complications, style and precision. But there’s another, more recent collection that’s as important, if not even more impactful, one that traces […]

Introducing – The Voutilainen 28 Kohan, a Singular Fusion of Swiss Craft and Japanese Art

When it comes to modern independent watchmaking at its highest level, few names stand out like Kari Voutilainen. Renowned for blending classical Swiss horology with meticulous hand-finishing and artistic expression, Voutilainen’s workshop produces some of the world’s most coveted time-only watches, none more so than his Vingt-8 and 28 series. But then come proper métiers […]

Introducing – The IWC Portofino Automatic Day & Night 34 in Gold

For many fans of IWC, the first collections that spring to mind are the brand’s emblematic Pilot watches, the iconic Portugieser and the Ingenieur. However, there is another collection at IWC with a more classical, understated and timeless character named after the Italian seaside village of Portofino. Appealing to men and women alike, the latest […]

[VIDEO] Introducing the Tusenö Supervintage, an Unexpected Dress Watch from Sweden

At last year’s Windup Watch Fair in New York City, Blake Malin found me on the first day, among throngs of people eagerly crowding around tables looking at countless cool watches, to tell me I had to see the new watch from Tusenö. Tusenö is a Swedish brand that’s been around for about ten years that I mostly associate with pretty good but not overly adventurous sport and tool watches. Some designs lean a bit more elegant, but they are mostly pretty sporty in their personality. They always have very nice details and are executed to a high standard, but they’ve often felt just a bit outside my wheelhouse for one reason or another. So when Blake told me I had to see their new release, which wasn’t yet released but just previewed at the show, I wasn’t quite sure what to expect, and thought maybe he had confused me with Devin.  That, of course, was not the case, and it became immediately clear once I saw the Supervintage in person. This dress watch is a genuinely strange left turn for Tusenö, and if there’s one thing I’m a huge fan of, it’s when a brand challenges themselves, and does something unexpected. I like a big swing, and that’s what the Supervintage feels like. In the same way that Serica, echo/neutra, and other brands have made an impression recently with oddball dress watches, Tusenö is using this genre of watch design as a sandbox for experimentation. This is one of my favorite developments (or “trends,” if you must) in the watch industry ...

Just Because – What If Rolex Expanded the Perpetual 1908 Settimo Range? Here Are Some Predictions

“How the Settimo gold bracelet elevated the Perpetual 1908 dress watch from elegant to exceptional.” This is how we began our review of what was basically only a metal bracelet added to an existing model from Rolex. Objectively speaking, the Perpetual 1908 on the Settimo bracelet is nothing new technically. Only the gold, multi-link bracelet […]

Seiko Still Makes a Cartier Tank Lookalike, and they Just Introduced Three New References

Back in May, I wrote about a Seiko release that got me thinking about the brand’s current perception among watch enthusiasts. Those Seiko 5 sports watches were a clear throwback, I think, to a time period when Seiko was the brand of distinction and choice for fans of affordable watches. Those days are gone. We still love Seiko, of course, but there’s just a lot more competition, and everyone’s game has been stepped up a bit. It’s worth remembering, too, that the Seiko of a decade ago wasn’t just the enthusiast’s choice for divers. Seiko has always made a huge variety of watches in all different styles, and another recent release from the brand is a good reminder of that, and a throwback release in its own way.  Back in the day, being involved in watch forums meant that you’d see endless questions about what watches to buy as an alternative to any number of rare, expensive, or otherwise unattainable luxury watches. That way of thinking about watch collecting has really shifted in recent years with the growth of the microbrand scene and the wide acceptance of new, original designs. But a nicely made “dupe” still has a place, and Seiko is about as good as anyone at delivering. The new SWR103, SWR104, and SWR106 are simple rectangular dress watches running on a quartz movement that retail for a little over $300. They also look a whole lot like the Cartier Tank, down to some very specific details.  Seiko has made a Tank dupe for as long as I’ve been intere...

Hands On: Piaget Andy Warhol

Having first introduced its Beta 21-inspired wristwatch over a decade ago, Piaget rebooted the concept this year by renaming it the Piaget Andy Warhol thanks to a freshly inked agreement with the American artist’s foundation. The watch retains the same oversized style format defined by a many stepped bezel and clean dial, but now adds the option of customisation in both dial and case materials. Though pricey for a time only watch, the Andy Warhol is arguably Piaget’s best formal dress watch for men. It’s just as elegant as the brand’s round watches, but substantially more distinctive. And the Andy Warhol nickname makes it more memorable than it was before. Initial thoughts Piaget’s most significant recent watch in technical terms is unquestionable the Altiplano Ultimate Concept, but ironically it is somewhat too thin to be elegant. The wafer-slim case feels a little strange on the wrist. The Andy Warhol, on the other hand, is large, but elegant and especially glamorous in certain variations like the malachite dial. In fact, the case is oversized – the case is 45 mm wide – but very thin around 8 mm, giving it a sleek profile but large presence on the wrist. And up close the multiple steps on the bezel give the design surprising flair given its overall simplicity. The large cushion form easily passes for a 1970s watch, but this is not an exact remake. Instead it is loosely based on the Piaget Beta 21, a pioneering quartz wristwatch, a specimen of which was owne...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tissot PRX Quartz Vs. Tissot PRC 100 Solar Quartz

Last week, we organized a sophisticated confrontation between two platinum dress watches. This week, we decided to keep it a little more low-key. Recently, Tissot introduced its new PRC 100 Solar Quartz with the state-of-the-art Lightmaster technology integrated into the watch’s crystal. The demand for this new watch is already higher than the supply, so […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tissot PRX Quartz Vs. Tissot PRC 100 Solar Quartz to read the full article.

Hands-On: the Farer Lissom “Lindley”

British independent brand Farer is heating up the summer scene with a new line of dress watches: the Lissom collection. The result is fun, classy, and beautifully true to the brand’s bold design language. I had the purple dialed “Lindley” in for review, but there are five total watches in the Lissom collection, offering a great mix of bright color combinations and more traditional neutrals. Every watch in the Lissom line has unique characteristics, but they have one thing in common – each reference shares a name with influential figures in the fields of botany and the natural sciences. I learned that my review sample was named in honor of John Lindley (1799 – 1865), an English horticulturist whose research, botanical illustrations, and championing of a natural system of plant classification were influential in his field.  The emphasis a first impression should have on watch purchase history should be studied. In my own collection, I have an array of watches with varying degrees of “love at first sight” influence – it doesn’t ultimately sway me one way or the other when deciding to purchase a watch. However, very few watches I’ve handled have elicited the audible gasp that accompanied my unboxing of the Lissom Lindley. In the name of science, much like its namesake, I’ve attempted to deconstruct why I was so immediately taken with this watch.  At 38mm in diameter with a thickness of 7.95mm, the Lindley is svelte, sharp, and downright dreamy on the wr...

Patek Philippe & Tiffany: The History Behind The Hype

As longtime, mutually beneficial relationships in the world of high luxury go, the one between Patek Philippe and Tiffany & Co. is perhaps the most quintessential. The esteemed Swiss watchmaker behind classic timepieces like the Calatrava and Nautilus and the elite retailer/jeweler renowned for its distinctive blue gift boxes have been partners for more than 170 years, and Patek Philippe watches with a Tiffany signature are among the rarest and most coveted items on a serious watch collector’s wishlist. In this feature, I explore the long and prestigious history behind Patek Philippe’s Tiffany watches and spotlight how the two world-famous brands continue to collaborate today.  Patek Philippe: The Origin Story The company that would be known as Patek Philippe had its foundation laid in 1839, when a Polish watchmaker named Antoni Norbert de Patek and his business partner, Czech-born François Czapek, partnered to form Patek, Czapek, & Cie, in Geneva. The company produced pocket watches for a relatively brief period before disagreements between the two founders precipitated the dissolving of the partnership, and the firm, by 1845. That same year, Patek began a new partnership with a French watchmaker named Adrien Philippe, whose historical claim to fame was the invention of the keyless winding system for watches. Together, they established a new company, Patek & Cie., to continue making watches, which officially became Patek, Philippe, & Cie. in 1851. That year was pivo...