Dress Watches · Page 32

Has Dennison risen from the dead?

Going from making 200,000 cases a year to relaunching with a hot new dress watch, Dennison is on the up and up.The post Has Dennison risen from the dead? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Editors' Picks: Our Favorite Seiko Watches Of All Time

One of the most iconic and beloved watch brands in history, Seiko is ubiquitous among newcomers, seasoned watch collectors, and everyone in between. Choosing one watch from a brand which has a catalog with such breadth and depth is not an easy task but the team here at Teddy was asked to do just that. Unsurprisingly, the answers ranged from contemporary dress watches to niche limited editions paying tribute to Sci-Fi classics. So, without further ado, here are our picks for our favorite Seiko watches. Let us know what you think and share your own in the comments. Mark Bernardo: Seiko Prospex SBDY025 "Save the Ocean" Edition How does one choose a “favorite” Seiko? As someone who writes about watches for an audience that appreciates all different kinds of watches, I’ve always found superlatives like “favorite” and “best” to be daunting. At the watch-industry trade shows I’ve attended over the years, I have often been posed with the question of what were my favorite new releases. My responses, invariably, have tracked not necessarily with my personal tastes but with the watches that made for the most interesting stories for my watch-savvy readers. And when it comes to Seiko, its history is chock full of interesting stories — the first Japanese-made chronograph watch in 1964 and first Japanese divers’ watch in 1965; the original Seiko Astron, the first quartz watch, in 1969, and its successor, the Astron GPS model, in 2012, to name just a handful. There has...

The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Chronograph Gets a Solid Gold Movement

Having reintroduced its reversible chronograph in steel or gold last year, Jaeger-LeCoultre (JLC) now does one better with the Reverso Tribute Chronograph in pink gold – with the case, dial, and movement bridges in pink gold. Featuring the double-sided display of the iconic design, the new chronograph has a solid gold dial laser-engraved with fine horizontal lines, while the open-worked dial on the reverse reveals the pink gold bridges adorned with Côtes de Genève. Initial thoughts The original Reverso Chronograph was launched in 1995, equipped with one of the first manually-wound integrated chronograph movements developed post-Quartz Crisis (I can only think of the Piguet cal. 1180 that was earlier), making it notable piece of horological history. The 1995 original was a limited edition of 500, so the revival of the movement last year, while not imaginative, was a good thing. The new Reverso Tribute Chronograph is a distinct variation of last’s year model that is no doubt superior thanks to its all-old execution, in contrast to regular-production version that features a movement with conventional rhodium-plated brass bridges. The use of a gold movement also brings to mind Reverso models of the 1990s and 2000s that employed similarly precious movements. Everything about the new Reverso Tribute Chronograph is appealing, except the price of US$66,000. It’s almost twice as expensive as the standard model in pink gold, which is difficult to justify even considering th...

Highlights: Metiers d’Art at Phillips Hong Kong

With the Geneva sales over, the auction season now moves to Hong Kong, where Phillips is staging a pair of sales: Toki, a theme sale dedicated to watches related to Japan, and the traditional The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XIX. Taking place over three days from November 22-24, the sales total 346 lots, including a notable line-up of metiers d’art timepieces decorated with artisanal techniques. They range from an enamelled Bulgari Serpenti to a Vacheron Constantin Les Masques quartet. We round up metiers d’art highlights from the two sales. The catalogues with online bidding for Toki and HKWA XIX. TOKI Lot 65 – Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts “Kimono” Ref. 5077P-097 Patek Philippe’s annual Rare Handcrafts offerings are often centred on several themes, and in 2013, resulting in several models with Japanese motifs, including this Calatrava ref. 5077P with a cloisonné enamel dial. The technique of enamelling is well known: a mixture of silica sand, metal oxides for colour, and oil is painted on a surface before being baked in an oven at temperatures exceeding 800°C. to melt the paste to form enamel. Cloisonné adds an additional layer of complexity by employing gold wires to form the motif, with the enamel painted into the cells form by the wires. Here the wires form a cherry blossom motif typical of traditional kimono fabric. According to Phillips, only four examples were produced with this dial, with the present watch being the first to emerge at auction. This wat...

Breaking News – The IWC Portugieser Eternal Calendar Wins the GPHG 2024 Aiguille d’Or (And All Prize Winners)

The 2024 edition of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève has just unveiled the grand winner of this year’s awards ceremony! Often regarded as the Oscars of Watchmaking, the GPHG stands for a celebration of all things surrounding mechanical watchmaking. A specially selected jury, which included our founder and editor-in-chief Frank Geelen, has narrowed down […]

Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph Limited Edition In Full Rose Gold Attire

The new stainless steel Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph was among our favorite releases during Watches and Wonders 2023. The contrast between the clean blue/gray sunburst dial and the open-worked chronograph dial especially earned our admiration. Of course, the version with a rose gold case and indexes on its black sunburst dial was also very impressive. […] Visit Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph Limited Edition In Full Rose Gold Attire to read the full article.

Introducing – The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph, now in full Pink Gold

The classic Reverso Chronograph, a watch initially presented in 1996, is a piece of great historical importance. It was the first manually wound integrated chronograph to be developed in the post-quartz era, marking the return to classic watchmaking. Last year, Jaeger-LeCoultre presented the Reverso Tribute Chronograph, a Duoface model looking back at this 1990s classic, […]

Owner’s Review: the Rolex Oysterquartz 17013

When I began this journey, many years ago and aided by guiding voices from the wider watch community in its various guises, there seemed to be many arbitrary categories than one needed to ‘fill’ in order to have a complete collection. A diver, a dress watch, a chronograph, a beater. These are generally understandable distinctions, even though they are still fairly arbitrary categories which seem to be mostly designed as a justification for buying a new watch. Thankfully, a prevailing tide of “buy what you like” swept over my own journey, and I ended up creating my own categories. In some cases they are rather hard to define, but do the job of ensuring I don’t have too much overlap – meaning everything gets worn. One category I never bought into was the “birth year” watch. Why would it be important to own a watch that was made in the same year I was born? Unfortunately, as I have aged I have grown more fond of watches produced around that time, and I have also become more comfortable in embracing my age (but note that I’m still trying not to give too much away). As such, when a birth year Rolex Oysterquartz Ref 17013 listed for sale, appeared fleetingly on my Instagram feed as I opened the app (before disappearing from sight), I was drawn to it. Fortunately, I recognized the style and composition of the photography and quickly tracked down the watch at UK based reseller Kibble Watches. When I saw the production year, wheels set in motion in my brain about ...

Got gold? The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph has plenty (live pics)

The case, the dial, the movement... They are all solid rose gold [insert drool emoji].The post Got gold? The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph has plenty (live pics) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Bremont’s Latest Terra Nova is a Caramel Colored Limited Edition

I think it’s possible that when it’s all said and done, no brand will have had a more consequential 2024 than Bremont. I can imagine a watch environment three or four or five years out into the future where this brand is fundamentally changed (even from how we see it now, after what most would agree is a tumultuous recent period), and we can pinpoint the start of that change in 2024. Specifically, at Watches & Wonders 2024, when the brand unveiled its new look, and the watch world, almost in unison, shook their heads.  We wrote about Bremont’s big rebrand when it happened, after getting a look at the watches themselves. It’s the single article we’ve published this year that I find myself being asked about over and over again. The Bremont rebrand comes up at local watch meetups, in Instagram group chats, and even in conversations with enthusiasts at our Windup events this year. People still have strong opinions about Bremont’s new direction. Predictably, something else has happened: more people are seeing these watches in person, and public opinion is shifting accordingly.  I stand by my original assessment, which is mostly just total confusion and a desire to wait and see what happens next. I thought the new Supermarine references I saw were quite unremarkable, but the Terra Nova references, particularly the simple time only model, had some promise. I still like the way this looks in the wrist shot I took in the Bremont booth at Watches & Wonders, even if the...

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s latest Master Ultra-Thin Date demands a rethink of the GADA label

This dress watch, with its striking blue-grey dial, is the horological equivalent of a smart pair of jeans, Jamie argues.The post Jaeger-LeCoultre’s latest Master Ultra-Thin Date demands a rethink of the GADA label appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

eBay Finds: A Vintage Seamaster in Great Condition, a Funky Seiko LCD, and a Classic Bulova Diver

eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Bulova Deep Sea  Bulova made a plethora of dive watch models back in the day, and a few of them have been reissued as modern ‘heritage’ remakes. The reason is the vintage Bulova divers are almost all awesome, and this 666ft diver is a perfect example. This model came in two styles, the silver dial seen here and also a black dial. Some were branded as “Snorkel” and some did not have that model name on the dial, like this one. This example is in excellent condition, and the original dial looks fantastic with the original lume. The diver’s bezel is missing the lume pip and the numbers and lines should have black paint, but otherwise this is a stellar example. The original crown is signed as it should be, and the movement is clean and runs well per the seller. These are hard to find in this shape these days. View auction here Vintage Mido Multifort  Here’s a great little vintage Mido Multifort Powerwind dress watch. The nearly 30mm steel case is in good condition, maybe mildly polished at some point, but the caseback is nice and sharp. The silver dial is clean and looks original, with nice stylized numbers and slim arrows. The dauphine hands have large lume filled plot...

The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Small Seconds In Pink Gold And Blue Makes My Head Spin

The new Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Small Seconds defines watch charisma. The proportions, material, and colors work wonders - and not just for me. Everyone in the Fratello office wanted to get their hands on this particular Reverso. In the introduction article, I expressed how I couldn’t wait to try on this watch. It didn’t […] Visit The New Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Small Seconds In Pink Gold And Blue Makes My Head Spin to read the full article.

The Exaequo Melting Watch is a Surrealist Take on Watch Design

If you’ve been paying attention to the world of the Hype Watch over the last few years, you’ve no doubt stumbled upon the hypiest Hype Watch of them all: the Cartier Crash. OK, maybe it’s not the hypiest Hype Watch, but it’s close. In terms of genuine rarity and the Crash’s ability to show up on the wrists of movie stars, recording artists, and top tier influencers with regularity, it’s certainly a big part of the conversation. There are a lot of reasons why the Crash has become so sought after in recent years, but one of them is certainly a movement among the larger watch market to pieces that are, at least on the surface, more unusual, and lead with design. The Crash, then, is really part of the rising tide that is lifting the ship of shaped cases more generally. And that brings us to the Exaequo Melting Watch, an unusual avant-garde design with a shaped case that is, at least in some ways, Crash adjacent, but a small fraction of the cost and quite a bit more approachable.  Longtime enthusiasts might remember the Exaequo Softwatch from the 1990s, which has carried on cult favorite status even to this day. The Melting Watch is effectively the modern rendition of the Softwatch, and has been brought back this year in a well timed bid to take advantage of a movement toward uncommon shapes and designs.  While the possibly apocryphal story of the Crash involves a Tank being accidentally melted in a fire after a car wreck, Exaequo has always proudly touted their w...

Why The A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 With Onyx Dial Is The Wildest Stealth Wealth Flex

A Unique, Fully-Engraved Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1500A for Charity

Continuing its annual tradition, Patek Philippe has just revealed its unique creation to benefit Children Action, the Nautilus Ref. 5711/1500A. Slated to be sold at auction with all proceeds going to the Geneva charity, the Nautilus Ref. 5711/1500A is entirely stainless steel and entirely engraved. The engraved Nautilus is the latest one-off wristwatch Patek Philippe has created for the charity founded by Swiss financier Bernard Sabrier that helps disadvantaged children. Past watches include the Calatrava Pilot Travel Time ref. 5524T in titanium and last year’s ref. 5270T in titanium with a green dial that sold for almost CHF10 million. The case, bezel, bracelet, and case back are hand engraved with a “Maori-inspired” motif that’s matched with a dark grey dial. While aftermarket engraving has been applied to various Nautilus models in the past, this is the first factory-original specimen decorated in this manner. Patek Philippe’s catalogue does include several complicated models decorated with engraving, most famously the Sky Moon Tourbillon ref. 6002, but they all complicated and in precious metal. This is the first and only Nautilus (or sports watch of any sort) with an engraved case, and also the only steel model with engraving. The watch is accompanied by a pair of matching cufflinks in engraved steel, which are equally unique as Patek Philippe ordinarily only sells gold cufflinks. The matching cufflinks ref. 205.9057A-010 The Nautilus Ref. 5711/1500A will be...

Biver Reveals Unique Automatique for Charity

Although it’s been less than two years since its founding, Biver has already launched its second model, the Automatique. Using that as the base, the brand created the Automatique “Echoes of this Moment”, a unique piece crafted in collaboration with a Swiss artist for TimeForArt, a charity auction taking place in November to benefit the Swiss Institute, a nonprofit focused on contemporary art education. Initial thoughts The standard Automatique is undeniably a finely executed watch, especially the micro-rotor automatic calibre within. Although the aesthetics of the regular-production model aren’t perfectly cohesive, the exquisite quality of the movement and attention to detail make it one of the most interesting new time-only creations from an independent. This unique piece improves the aesthetics of the Automatique because it simplifies the design. The standard version has an elaborately finished dial that combines too many elements – faceted indices, brushed sectors, an engraved seconds track, and sharp polished hands. In contrast, the unique Automatique keeps the look simple, while still having a complex, artisanal dial decoration. Here the handmade dial – that’s both engraved and enamelled – can be admired for what it is, with no distractions. An artful dial The New York-based Swiss Institute was set up to promote contemporary art through events and exhibitions. Now in its second edition, TimeForArt was conceived to benefit the non-profit. Biver is one o...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Breguet Classique 5177 Vs. A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1

Last week, two dress-watch giants presented new versions of existing watches in their collections. First, A. Lange & Söhne showed us four new references of the Lange 1 to celebrate the model’s 30th anniversary. Then, Breguet presented us with a new platinum version of both the Classique 5177 and 7787. So, for this week’s Sunday […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Breguet Classique 5177 Vs. A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 to read the full article.

Bring a Loupe: A Rolex Explorer With RAF Provenance, A Scroll Lug Patek Calatrava, And A 'Geezer' Audemars Piguet

All that and more in this week's edition of Hodinkee's What's Selling Where column.

First Look – The Piaget Andy Warhol Clou de Paris Watch, Now Officially Uniting Two Icons

Thanks to a licensed collaboration with The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, Piaget has been permitted to rename its cult 1970s Black Tie dress watch, which is now officially “the Andy Warhol watch”. Celebrating this meaningful association with the undisputed King of Pop Art and long-time watch collector and friend of the brand, […]

Piaget Introduces the Andy Warhol Clou de Paris

Elegant and distinctly 1970s in style, the Piaget Andy Warhol Clou de Paris is modelled on an oversized quartz wristwatch once owned by Andy Warhol. Originally known as the Black Tie Vintage Inspiration, the model has now been renamed thanks to Piaget’s recently inked partnership with The Andy Warhol Foundation for the Visual Arts, making it the first timepiece bearing the name of the American artist. Part of Piaget’s catalogue for a decade, the new Andy Warhol wristwatch gains a reworked bezel decorated with Clou de Paris, replacing the stepped bezel on the preceding version. The latest iteration sports a blue meteorite dial, but the model can be customised via Piaget’s “Made to Order” programme that includes a variety of mineral stone dials as well as dial and case options. The original version with a stepped bezel, here with a malachite dial Initial thoughts Andy Warhol was a watch collector who own over 300 timepieces – all of which were sold at Sotheby’s after his death – including seven by Piaget. One of them as a chunky yellow gold watch with powered by the Beta 21, a pioneering Swiss quartz movement. Piaget is making the most of this association by renaming the Black Tie model and expanding the options offered to clients. Piaget does several things well, including ingenious, record-setting ultra-thin movements, but it really excels at elegant, retro dress watches like the Andy Warhol. While the original Black Tie model was essentially a remake of th...

Auction: Breguet 3218 Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Wristwatch at Christie’s

One of the most intriguing and significant watches in Christie’s upcoming Geneva auction on November 11 is Breguet no. 3218, a tonneau-shaped wristwatch with a perpetual calendar and retrograde date sold in 1935. In all likelihood the first wristwatch ever with these complications, no. 3218 is also notable for its provenance: the original owner was Paul Iribe, Coco Chanel’s romantic partner. The watch is going under the hammer with a low estimate of CHF100,000 – modest considering its significance. According to Christie’s, there are only four known wristwatches with perpetual calendar and retrograde date made in the first half of the 20th century, regardless of brand, and this is one of them. Two others were also made by Breguet, while the final example is the unique Patek Philippe ref. 96 (no. 860’182) that is the classic round Calatrava case. This watch, no. 3218, is the earliest of the four, making it likely the first-ever perpetual calendar wristwatch with retrograde date. (Another wristwatch retrograde perpetual calendar and minute repeater is known, the Vacheron Constantin “Don Pancho” that is also tonneau-shaped.) The 18k white gold case remains well preserved Beyond its intrinsic features, no. 3218 is also historically interesting for its first owner. The watch was sold by Breguet in May 1935 – for a then-astronomical 10,000 francs – to Paul Iribe, a French designer who is perhaps most famous for being Coco Chanel’s lover. In September 1935, not...

Hands-On With The Surprisingly Impressive Echo/Neutra Rivanera

It’s time for a confession: dress watches are generally not for me. This is due to my predominantly casual everyday style and a lack of formal events in my life for which a dress watch would be most appropriate. But that doesn’t say anything about my passionate love for the genre. Dress watches show a […] Visit Hands-On With The Surprisingly Impressive Echo/Neutra Rivanera to read the full article.

30th Anniversary Editions from A. Lange & Söhne: Lange 1 with Black Onyx Dial in Platinum and Lange 1 with Blue Dial in Pink Gold, both in Two Very Wearable Sizes

A. Lange & Söhne celebrates the birthday of a legendary watch, the watchmaking flagship of our time: the Lange 1 collection featuring outsize date, asymmetrical dial, and an outstandingly finished mechanical movement is now extended with four new limited edition models.