Hodinkee
Introducing: The New Reverso Tribute Duoface Tourbillon
Double the dials, double the fun. And if those two faces don't keep your head spinning, watch out for that tourbillon.
Dress Watches · Page 52
Hodinkee
Hodinkee
Introducing: The New JLC Reverso Small Seconds Takes A Colorful Turn
Flip the new ultra-slim Small Seconds Reverso and you'll find 4 different colored dials.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Chronograph
And yes, that's steel.
Time+Tide
Zenith’s Defy Skyline Black Ceramic models cross over to the dark side of horology
The Skyline series gets two new models, decked out in sinister full black ceramic The Defy Skyline Skeleton Black Ceramic is a real contender among stealth-wealth showpieces Both models are powered by time-only El Primero calibres Zenith’s Defy collection has gone over to the dark side for Watches and Wonders. The brand has just released … ContinuedThe post Zenith’s Defy Skyline Black Ceramic models cross over to the dark side of horology appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Carrera Date is a quarter in colour
Four new colours for a traditionally sized TAG Heuer Carrera time-only model A revised case profile with improved thickness and wearability Upgraded from Calibre 5 to Calibre 7 History is a hugely important aspect of any new Carrera release, owing to the rich heritage of the model and the moments and personalities associated with it. … ContinuedThe post TAG Heuer Carrera Date is a quarter in colour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The Colorful New Patek Philippe Calatrava 6007G
Red, blue, and yellow accents make for a more casual Calatrava.
Time+Tide
Cartier’s new Privé Tank Normale collection honours the OG
The Cartier Tank Normale is the original 1917 Tank design from Louis Cartier This is the 7th entry into the rare Privé collection, succeeding the Crash, Tank Cintrée, Tonneau, the Tank Asymétrique, Cloche and Tank Chinoise Offered in standard and skeleton forms, with the standard models also available on case-matching precious metal bracelets – all of … ContinuedThe post Cartier’s new Privé Tank Normale collection honours the OG appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The new Cartier Tank Louis Cartier collection is all about mosaics, lacquer, and gold
Four new Cartier Tank Louis Cartier models The two mosaic models utilise tri-gold (white, rose and yellow) finished dials Two models bring the green and burgundy lacquer dials from the 2021 Must collection into the manually wound Tank LC format The Cartier Tank is one of the most iconic watch designs of all time, and … ContinuedThe post The new Cartier Tank Louis Cartier collection is all about mosaics, lacquer, and gold appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds: Gold Cases, Textured Dials, and Calculators
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Gold Longines Here’s a little gem that has loads of style and bling despite its small size. The case is solid 14k yellow gold, but is only 31mm wide, so not really for those with big wrists. What it lacks in size it makes up with design and style. The bezel is two tiered, with the bottom tier having a crosshatched texture that matches the gold dial, and the upper tier has radial grooves at each hour that also serve as the hour markers. The lugs are thin and smooth for a nice contrast. The gold dial has crosshatched texture and looks to be in great shape the printed Longines logo and applied flying hourglass badge, with thin stick hands. Quite simple and elegant, while blingy at the same time. The crown is signed which is always nice to have. No movement pics but seller states it runs and keeps time. Really great looking gold dress watch for those that like a smaller watch. View auction here. Hamilton LED Calendar Watch More gold, but this time gold plated and definitely a more ‘modern’ design than the Longines above! This vintage Hamilton LED watch has a classic future 1970’s look which is what I love about these vintage LED watches. Condition is fantastic, and the wat...
SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Rare Handcrafts 2023 Exhibition in Geneva
As is now tradition, Patek Philippe is unveiling its Rare Handcrafts collection for the year at its boutique in Geneva alongside Watches & Wonders (W&W) that takes place at the same time. Open to the public from April 1 to 15, Rare Handcrafts 2023 encompasses 67 timepieces – including 22 Dome Clocks and a dozen pocket watches – all decorated with a variety of artisanal techniques ranging from wood marquetry to cloisonné enamel. Amongst the highlights from the collection is the Calatrava ref. 5189G-001 “1948 Nations Grand Prix” (pictured above), a wristwatch with a cloisonné enamel dial depicting the automobile race that took place in Geneva from 1946 to 1950. Another is the pocket watch “Leopard” ref. 995/137J-001 that is finished with wood marquetry on its back and champlevé enamel along the case and bow. “Leopard” ref. 995/137J-001 In addition to the new launches, the exhibition also has on show a selection of vintage and antique timepieces from the Patek Philippe Museum. Rare Handcrafts 2023 is open daily to the public from April 1 to 15, except on Sundays. Patek Philippe Salons Rue du Rhône 41 1204 Genève Switzerland Admission is free but registration is required and it can be done on Patek.com.
Worn & Wound
Czapek Embraces Titanium in New Dark Sector Antarctique
One of our favorite high-end independent brands of late has been Czapek, and their Antarctique collection, which has a seemingly endless range, from their remarkable openworked Rattrapante Chronograph, to the serene time-only Frozen Star. This week, the collection welcomes a new addition, in a new material, it’s the Titanium Dark Sector. This is a slightly different expression of the Antarctique design language that we’ve seen in the likes of the Passage De Drake, bringing a slate like appearance to the monotone frame with enough small details to capture your attention. It’s still a modern integrated design and houses the brand’s own showstopper movement, so if you’re a fan of the Antarctique but prefer toned down symmetry, this watch is likely to check all the boxes for you. The Titanium Dark Sector features an integrated case and bracelet design that’s rendered fully in titanium, which should make the 40.5mm diameter and 10.5mm thickness all the more svelte on the wrist. The bracelet integrates to the case via articulating central link that fits into the center of the case, allowing for an even flow around the wrist. Unlike the 38.5mm case Antarctique, this titanium bracelet will not feature chamfers on the final production model. Additionally, there will not be customization options on this watch other than a trio of strap options. The flat gray dial of the Dark Sector is sparse, with all the action happening toward the dial’s perimeter. Applied sections o...
Worn & Wound
Phillips to Auction a Patek Philippe Owned by Aisin-Gioro Puyi, the Last Emperor of China
Last week, news of the latest marquee lot to go under the hammer via Phillips broke across watch media. The phrase “historically significant” is often used to describe high profile vintage watches that go up for auction, but very few actually feel truly historic. I would argue that this particular Patek Philippe, a watch that once belonged to Aisin-Gioro Puyi, the Last Emperor of the Qing Dynasty, meets just about any definition for historically significant that you can come up with. Not only did it belong to a figure from our relatively recent history that marked a profound change in a nation’s history, but in terms of vintage Patek, this complicated Calatrava is worth studying even outside the scope of its significant owner. If you’re not familiar with Puyi’s story, a brief introduction or refresher is certainly in order to properly contextualize the watch. Aisin-Gioro Puyi became the Emperor of China at the age of 2, abdicated his throne at 7, and was held as a political prisoner by the Soviets following World War II. Puyi led an uncommon and complex life through a period of great political upheaval, but it’s notable that despite the title of Emperor that was thrust upon him as a boy, he never held significant power as a world leader. In his brief stint as the final Emperor of the Qing Dynasty he was essentially a figurehead, and later served as the puppet leader of Manchukuo for the Japanese following their invasion of Manchuria in 1932. Puyi is seen by s...
Hodinkee
Buying, Selling, & Collecting: A Rare, Complicated Patek Calatrava You Might Not Have Known About Is Coming Up For Auction
Phillips just announced it's auctioning 'The Last Emperor's' 1-of-8 Calatrava. Here's what we know about early, complicated Calatravas.
SJX Watches
The Intrigue & Significance of the Patek Philippe Owned by the Last Emperor of China
A historically important Patek Philippe Calatrava ref. 96 with full calendar and moon phase will soon be offered at Phillips, but the news isn’t so much about the watch itself but the story behind it. While extraordinarily rare in itself, the ref. 96 quantieme lune is exceptional for its provenance: its original owner was Aisin-Gioro Puyi, the last emperor of China and heir to a 4,000-year old imperial throne. As the final ruler of the Qing Dynasty, Puyi was arguably a hapless individual overcome by circumstances and overtaken by history – a life dramatised in the Bernardo Bertolucci’s film The Last Emperor – leaving him with a mixed reputation and legacy. The ref. 96, however, makes clear his appreciation of mechanical timepieces. Yet this long-lost imperial watch is extremely flawed on its face. But the heavily-aged dial, seemingly severely damaged, also echoes the tale of Puyi’s brief reign, a turbulent time when an empire met its end and a feudal dynasty was transformed into a modern nation. Image – PaddleWaves An Emperor’s timekeeper Ascending the throne at age two in 1908, Puyi was destined for a life of absolute power. But shortly after, the child Emperor witnessed the collapse of Imperial China and his family’s four century-old dynasty in the wake of the Xinhai Revolution of 1911 that gave birth to the Republic of China. In 1932, perhaps unwitting or naive, he became the titular ruler of Manchukuo, the puppet state of Manchuria that was controlle...
Hodinkee
Culture Of Time: Jay-Z Wearing A Jaeger-LeCoultre Tribute To 1931 Reverso At Carnegie Hall
Jay-Z and his watches. Historically, he's been an AP man. He even had a limited edition watch created in his honor, and donated his personal Audemars Piguet Las Vegas Tourbillon to charity, which ended up selling for $220,000 to this man. Then, with the release of Watch The Throne, the world heard him say "New Watch Alert: HUBLOT" and he can be seen wearing a Hublot Classic Fusion in the video.
SJX Watches
IWC Debuts Customisation for Portugieser Chronograph
With luxury brands vying to offer clients individuality in products, customised watches are now fairly common. The trend began at aftermarket providers, but establishment watchmakers are gradually making such offerings available beyond their highest-end clientele. The latest entrant is IWC with its Individualisation Service, a surprisingly straightforward customisation process that’s a first for a mainstream watch brand. Available at just two locations for now, the service allows clients to personalise a Portugieser Chronograph; anyone can walk into either of the IWC stores in Shanghai or Dubai and select a case material, match it with a variety of dials and straps, with the finished watch ready in about three weeks. The caveat: the customised watch costs an CHF1,500 over the retail price of the standard-production model. Initial thoughts Despite the clunky name, IWC’s Individualisation Service is definitely a welcome development since it’s a factory-official customised watch that is relatively accessible in price. Customisation is typically offered to only a brand’s biggest-spending clients, so this democratises the concept to a degree. Granted, it’s being trialed at just two locations, but it will surely be rolled out more widely once its commercial viability is proven. That said, the Individualisation Service has limitations. It allows clients to choose from a range of fixed options, rather than allowing free rein to tweak or redesign the watch. So if you...
Deployant
Seriously fun: Six watches to prove that dress watches need not be boring
In this week's article, we are selecting six watches to prove that dress watches do not necessarily need to be serious and boring.
![Cartier Introduces the Clash [Un]limited](https://watchesbysjx.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/03/Cartier-Clash-Unlimited-watch-3.jpg)
SJX Watches
Cartier Introduces the Clash [Un]limited
Cartier’s best known watches are often symmetrical and formal, think Tank or Santos, but also animal inspired, most notably the Panthère. But its latest suite of ladies’ watches is unconventional in its mix of forms and finishes. Inspired by the jewellery collection of the same name, the Clash [Un]limited is edgy, modern, and different from the brand’s usual offerings. Initial thoughts While I can’t profess to be an expert in ladies’ watches, the Clash is both an interesting and appealing design to my eye. It is an intriguing mix of design elements that might seem ill-matched on their face but somehow work well together. So the dial and facetted crystal are obvious retro, but they go well with the studs and balls of the bracelet; the whole is greater than the sum of the parts. At the same time, the edgy styling of the Clash doesn’t feel like Cartier, which has a predominantly classical or Art Deco house style. In fact, the Clash seems like something from a brand more associated with streetwear, like Louis Vuitton for instance. That said, the colourful variant of the Clash does evoke Cartier’s signature Tutti Fruitti jewellery. Chic yet eccentric Launched in 2019, Clash de Cartier was perhaps Cartier’s first collection of jewellery with a distinct streetwear aesthetic, one heavy on studs and spikes. According to Cartier, however, Clash took inspiration from the work of Jeanne Toussaint (1887-1976), the brand’s longtime artistic director who favoured...
Hodinkee
How I'd Spend $100K: First, I’d (Predictably) Buy A Vintage Rolex And A Speedmaster. Then Go Quartz, Dressy, And Gold.
After locking down the essentials, I'd spend on undervalued dress watches from Cartier, Breguet, and Lange.
Hodinkee
Introducing: The IWC Portugieser Automatic 40 Gets A Salmon Dial!
But we may have to wait a couple months to see it for ourselves.
Hodinkee
Introducing: Cartier Refreshes The Tank Française With Modern Updates (Live Pics)
Small changes make for a sportier Tank. Plus, a large steel model now features an automatic movement.
Revolution
First Look: The Brand New Cartier Tank Francaise is a Paragon of Sports Chic
In 1996, Cartier the unrivalled King of Elegance, introduced the Tank Francaise, the first Tank with an integrated bracelet design which had gradually been gaining traction since the 1970s. It took the classicism of form from its icon of icons, the Tank, and married it with a bracelet that was at once masculine in its […]
Hodinkee
Hands-On: The New Cartier Tank Française Is No Ladies' Watch
The recent upgrades prove that this is a timepiece with a very unisex agenda.
Hodinkee
Buying, Selling, & Collecting: Here's Why I Traded My Cartier Santos-Dumont For A Tank
Whoops, now I have both.