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Dress Watches · Page 8

12 Best Tonneau Watches: Breaking the Mold Teddy Baldassarre
Mar 23, 2026

12 Best Tonneau Watches: Breaking the Mold

For over a century, the traditional round case has dominated the horological landscape, granting a sensible, utilitarian canvas for reading the time. However, for those who seek to venture off the beaten path, the tonneau or barrel-shaped watch affords a thrilling and historically rich alternative. The silhouette of the tonneau watch features gently bowing, convex sides that transition into straight or slightly curved ends that allow the case to sit more securely and comfortably than a straight-edged shape. At the same time, the straighter ends give it enough structure to maintain presence and balance, rather than feeling overly soft or shapeless. First introduced in the early 20th century as a stylish departure from the ubiquitous pocket watch, the tonneau case came forth as a defining silhouette of the Art Deco movement, its beautifully curved architecture proving inherently ergonomic and capable of tracing the natural shape of your arm. Today, the attraction of the tonneau or barrel-shaped case is stronger than ever. It has become a highly popular alternative to the classic circle, occupying a middle ground between sporty and dressy. Whether you are looking for an integrated sports watch that screams 1970s chic, an aggressive contemporary skeletonized masterpiece, or a refined dress watch, the tonneau and barrel configurations of today represent a conscious and stylish rebellion against the ordinary. [toc-section heading="Tissot PRX Damascus Powermatic"] Price: $1,175, ...

King Seiko VANAC Review: Vintage 1970s Style Meets Modern Seiko Engineering WatchAdvice
Mar 20, 2026

King Seiko VANAC Review: Vintage 1970s Style Meets Modern Seiko Engineering

The King Seiko VANAC blends a bold 1970s-inspired design with Seiko’s modern 8L45 movement and a new vintage-style leather strap. What We Love: The textured dials with the gold coloured accents The angular vintage-style case The proportions and size for ease of wearing What We Don’t: The movement accuracy could be better at this price point The leather straps could not be up everyone’s alley The clasp on the strap doesn’t feel as solid as the watch itself. Overall Rating: 8.1 / 10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 7.5/10 Build Quality: 8/10 The King Seiko VANAC is a watch designed to talk to the collector market, and as such, the VANAC name is one that long-time Seiko collectors will recognise straight away. Today, the modern re-interpretations of the VANAC stay relatively true to the original models, but of course, with modern materials and standards. They’re instantly recognisable with those in the know, and do harken back to a time where the Avant-Garde was becoming more the industry norm across certain collections. So, before we get into this review, let’s take a short walk back in time… King Seiko’s VANAC Line Returns In A New Lease On Life A Brief History Of King Seiko’s VANAC First introduced in 1972, the VANAC line represented a bold departure from the more traditional King Seiko dress watches. Designed primarily for the Japanese market, VANAC watches were intended to be Vibrant, Active, New, Advanced, Comfortable — the meaning...

Greubel Forsey Bids Farewell to the Balancier Convexe S² SJX Watches
Mar 17, 2026

Greubel Forsey Bids Farewell to the Balancier Convexe S²

Greubel Forsey’s entry-level sports watch has been in production for five years and is now at an end. The brand is saying goodbye with a pair of final editions, the Balancier Convexe S² in ceramic. The first version is entirely in white ceramic, and the second is black ceramic with the bezel and case back in 18k red gold. Each limited to 11 pieces, the two editions share the same movement, but decorated differently to match the case. It’s manual wind, time-only calibre that is anything but simple; the movement is equipped with the brand’s trademark inclined balance wheel as well as titanium bridges and plates. Initial thoughts A bestseller for Greubel Forsey when sports watches were all the rage, the Convexe line (and related sports models) is gradually being reduced. The Balancier Convexe S² is one of the few sports models that Greubel Forsey has launched since the change in management resulted in the pivot towards more classical watches, exemplified by last year’s Nano Foudroyante. It might be also one of the last: Greubel Forsey notes besides the end of the model’s production, “[this year] also marks the beginning of a gradual transition toward an almost entirely new collection”. While this change in direction has been welcomed by many enthusiasts who appreciate Greubel Forsey returning to its root, the Convexe watches do have their charm. The Balancier Convexe S² illustrates this – the case is large but ergonomic and wearable, and the sporty constru...

Stellar Small Seconds: Orient Star M45 F7 SJX Watches
Mar 17, 2026

Stellar Small Seconds: Orient Star M45 F7

Orient Star doubles down on dress watches with the dignified M45 F7 Small Seconds in three new colours inspired by the night sky. With its small seconds layout, power reserve indicator, no-date format, and sub-40 mm case size, the M45 is clearly targeting the enthusiast market. Initial thoughts While more casual and “sporty” watches have been the foundation of the watch market for decades, Orient, and its upscale sibling Orient Star, are arguably known best for its more formally coded watches, such as the entry-level Orient Bambino. From there, Orient Star’s M45 collection represents a tempting upgrade, featuring a slew of refinements inside and out that make it a good value proposition despite the higher price. Beyond the technical specifications, the M45 F7 Small Seconds also reflects Orient Star’s ongoing effort to carve out a distinct identity within the broader Japanese watch landscape. While brand has long been appreciated for delivering strong value, the M45 line shows a growing confidence in formal watches, which is needed given the fierce competition from micro-brands in the sports watch segment at the same price point. Visually, the watch could benefit from being even smaller, as the small seconds sub-dial is too close to the centre of the dial, but that is true of many, if not most, of its (few) competitors in this price segment that offer a small seconds format. Collectors have come accept this as a normal trade-off of contemporary watches that use hist...

Hands-On With IWC Schaffhausen’s Beautifully Executed Ingenieur Automatic 35 WatchAdvice
Mar 13, 2026

Hands-On With IWC Schaffhausen’s Beautifully Executed Ingenieur Automatic 35

In 2025, IWC Schaffhausen introduced a first for the Ingenieur collection, unveiling three new models in a compact 35mm case size. For this hands-on review, I had the chance to spend some time with one of my favourite pieces from the new lineup. Read on to find out why it left such a lasting impression! What We Love: 35mm case size wears exceptionally well Gold toned grid patterned dial works beautifully with an 18k 5N gold case Wrist prescence of the watch is undeniable What We Don’t: Non-skeletonised rotor 42-hour power reserve can be slightly low by modern standards. With an open case back, this 35mm Ingenieur doesn’t have an anti-magnetic soft iron cage like older Ingenieurs. Overall Rating: 8.75/10 Value for Money: 8.5/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 8.5/10 Build Quality: 9/10 Inspired by Gérald Genta’s iconic 1970s Ingenieur SL design, the 35mm Ingenieur timepieces retain the signature elements that define the original collection, from the integrated bracelet to the distinctive grid dial and the five-screw bezel, now perfectly re-proportioned into a smaller, more wearable format! IWC Schaffhausen has several stand-out collections from past to present, with one of the most influential in shaping the brand being their Pilot’s collections. Then we also have the Portugieser, which played a pivotal role in shaping IWC’s identity with its elegant design and technical watchmaking. Alongside these two iconic collections sits the Ingenieur. 1955 IWC Ingenieur Ref....

The Most Important Watches of the 1990s Teddy Baldassarre
Mar 13, 2026

The Most Important Watches of the 1990s

Given the rapid, cyclical nature of trends, it seems that the cultural zeitgeist proclaims every few years that “the 90s are so back.” I think the better question is, did the 90s ever really leave? Well, it's a good a time as any to revisit the 1990s watches that defined this seminal decade. Since the recent release of Ryan Murphy’s “Love Story” limited series retelling of Carolyn Bessette and John F. Kennedy Jr.’s relationship is gripping the pop-cultural imagination, it seems that I can’t open my phone without being digitally transported back to the 90s. While I could resist this specific flavor of nostalgia, it feels more fun to dive right in and lean into the latest obsession with the 90s, translating it into the context of watches. The 90s, after all, is quite a quirky and compelling era of watchmaking. Case sizes were getting bigger, marketing was getting flashier,  the industry was still righting itself after the quartz shakeup, and designs that still ring relevant today made their initial debuts. So without further ado, let's hop on in the metaphorical time machine to take a journey through the defining watches of the 90s. [toc-section heading="Cartier Tank Française"] Image: Sotheby's Selfishly, I’m going to kick us off with one of my favorite watches that came out of the 90s. Pretty much an immediate hit when it debuted in 1996, the Tank Française is where Cartier’s iconic design adopted a more laidback attitude. A marked shift from the forma...

Editors' Picks: Our Favorite Affordable Dress Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Mar 12, 2026

Editors' Picks: Our Favorite Affordable Dress Watches

Choosing a watch is hard, but zeroing in on a specific type of watch should theoretically make it easier. That is, of course, unless you intentionally make that more difficult…which is exactly what we’ve done. For the latest episode of Editors' Picks, we challenged the Teddy Team to choose the best dress watch – in their opinion – under $1,500. This mission is straightforward in theory, but more complicated in practice. As the watch market continues to change and prices increase each year, finding the best in a category at reasonably attainable price points only gets more difficult. But down below, we're taking that challenge in stride and using it to create a compass for the audience. Today’s under $1,500 mission deals directly with more affordable dress watches, and we are here to prove you don’t need to break the bank to look like a million bucks in formal wear. Is this list definitive? No, and it's not intended to be. Feel free to jump into the comments to let us know which is your favorite and any watches you would add to the list. Danny Milton: Frederique Constant Classic Index Black Price: $1,195 This price point becomes increasingly harder to sort out as time goes by, but nonetheless, I am zeroing in on a brand that has masterfully navigated the balance between homage and innovation. Frederique Constant might very well be the most underrated watch brand in terms of its ability to produce in-house manufacturing at a price that doesn't break the proverbi...

Kollokium’s Projekt 02 Variant B Treads New Terrain SJX Watches
Mar 11, 2026

Kollokium’s Projekt 02 Variant B Treads New Terrain

Having teased its newest collection with a family and friends edition last year, Kollokium has finally taken the wraps off the Projekt 02 Variant B, which offers a low-profile die-cast stainless steel case and a terraced topographical dial. A massive box-form crystal contains the scene, offering a panoramic view of the 67 pieces that comprise the nine layers of the dial. A limited edition of 399 pieces, the Variant B is a well-priced entry point to the world of independent watchmaking, and could easily be worn daily. Initial thoughts Kollokium is a relatively new name in independent watchmaking, but the company’s three founders, collector Amr Sindi, designer Barth Nussbaumer, and Louis Erard managing director Manuel Emch, bring a trained eye and a fresh perspective to the brand. With a strong emphasis on design, underpinned by a simple but competent calibre, Kollokium seems to have mastered the game of trade-offs required to market a distinctive watch at an affordable price. Left to Right: Amr Sindi, Barth Nussbaumer, Manuel Emch. The Variant B is fundamentally a simple time-only watch, powered by an off-the-shelf La Joux-Perret cal. G101, an increasingly common base movement prized for its economy and autonomy, with a healthy 68-hour power reserve. But Kollokium’s watches are anything but ordinary, owing to the brand’s unusual dial treatments and case processing. The Variant B is technically the first publicly available version of the Projekt 02, which debuted last ...

Kurono Tokyo’s First Dive Watch is Also a Dress Watch Worn & Wound
Mar 10, 2026

Kurono Tokyo’s First Dive Watch is Also a Dress Watch

If you forced me to place a bet, perhaps on a platform like Kalshi, on what the latest release from Kurono Tokyo would be, there’s probably no way I’d put even a nickel of my own money on a dive watch. And if you told me that the dive watch in question would be of a unique modular design, I’d probably just be even more confused. That’s basically how I felt when I first saw the news of the new “Kurono Diver’s” watch from Kurono, which is basically two watches in one, and represents a hard left turn for a brand that we thought we had figured out. I feel like I talk a lot about how nice it is to be surprised in this industry, and this is a great example of a watch that I don’t think anyone saw coming and gives us all a chance to contemplate something a little different. Before we get into the Diver’s though (the name of the watch is stylized somewhat confusingly with the possessive apostrophe ‘s’), it’s worth setting the proper context for Kurono Tokyo, because this watch upends a lot of the expectations collectors probably have for the brand. The first thing to understand is that Kurono is the brainchild of watchmaker Hajime Asaoka, widely recognized as one of the great independent watchmakers in the world. His Kurono line has become popular over the last few years as it gives enthusiasts who might not be inclined to pay well into the five figures for an Asaoka branded watch a chance to get a lot of his aesthetic in an affordable package. It’s a dif...

A Wishlist for Watches & Wonders 2026 SJX Watches
Mar 9, 2026

A Wishlist for Watches & Wonders 2026

Each year I find it surprisingly difficult to crystalise what I want to see from Watches & Wonders – perhaps I find it hard to hope for things I know will never come. Sometimes dreams aren’t logistically possible. For example, a compact Spring Drive chronograph probably isn’t reasonable given Grand Seiko already has its hands full scaling production of another new Spring Drive movement. At other times, imagination is bound by brand strategy: Cartier could easily steal the show with a quartz Crash Must priced along the same lines as a Tank Must – but never will. But I believe that the following watches, which I’d like to see from Patek Philippe, Grand Seiko and Credor, and Tudor are plausible enough to hope for. The following images were created without the use of generative AI. Patek Philippe In 2023, Patek Philippe launched the ref. 5316/50P, a minute repeating tourbillon with retrograde perpetual calendar and smoked sapphire dial. It remains among the brand’s best complicated offerings, other than the ref. 6301p, at least in my view. Last year Patek Philippe followed up with the ref. 6159G, which featured a smoked sapphire dial and the same perpetual calendar on a more pedestrian base movement. But if there is one reference more deserving of the smoked sapphire treatment than any other, it is the ref. 5236p in-line perpetual calendar, as imagined below in platinum. In 2021, Patek Philippe revived the historic in-line perpetual calendar, which is strongly asso...

26 Marvelous Moonphase Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Mar 6, 2026

26 Marvelous Moonphase Watches

The tracking and recording of time has always been inextricably linked with the mysterious motions of the heavenly bodies, primarily that of the sun around which Earth revolves and of the moon, Earth’s own satellite, whose monthly trek around our planet has inspired astronomers, poets, navigators, and yes, watchmakers to explore and understand its unique place in our cosmos. Watchmakers over the years have expressed their fascination with Luna, both its romantic and scientific aspects, in some of their most creative and innovative timepieces. Here are 26 of our favorite and best moonphase watches available now that we think shine particularly bright. [toc-section heading="A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Moon Phase"] Price: On Request, Case size: 38.5mm, Thickness: 10.2mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 30 meters, Movement: Manually Wound L121.3 The iconic Lange 1, unveiled in 1994 as the flagship of the revived A. Lange & Söhne brand, has been the wellspring of numerous creative variations and additional complications, among them this elegantly appointed model that marries an ultra-precise moon-phase display with an ingenious day-night indicator. The former’s gold moon waxes and wanes over a star-dappled blue disk and tracks the actual lunar cycle with near pinpoint accuracy, requiring adjustment just once every 122.6 years. The watch’s 38.5-mm case houses the German watchmaker’s manufacture Caliber L.121.3, whose luxurious, traditional Saxon deco...

Interview: the Convictions of James Lamb Worn & Wound
Mar 5, 2026

Interview: the Convictions of James Lamb

It’s a fair assumption that if you’re the kind of enthusiast that’s interested in independent watchmaking, the allure of something a little different isn’t lost on you. The independent watch space is a wildly diverse one that’s full of outsider artisans, but even in a field of outsiders, English watchmaker James Lamb is something of an anomaly.  Lamb’s watches genuinely don’t look like anything else on the market. While they’re all time-only affairs, they feature an offset sub-dial layout that frees up the outer portion of the dial to be used as a decorative space. With his Origin Series, Lamb applies strikingly colorful enamel work to the outer dial section. With his latest release, the Linea Edition, Lamb has collaborated with one of the UK’s most respected ornamental engravers, Joanne Ryall, to create a line of watches with beautifully hand-engraved titanium and gold outer dials.  While the dials are showstopping displays of handcraft, Lamb’s watches also feature completely handmade cases (read: no CNC machines used), which he crafts out of Argentium silver. Lamb’s case designs are robust and understated; they do a fabulous job of grounding the watch’s bold dial designs, but the craftsmanship that goes into them is something serious horology enthusiasts fawn over. For Lamb, a self-proclaimed watch industry isolationist, doing things like crafting his cases entirely by hand is kind of the whole point of making watches.  Lamb deliberately avoids...

Hands On: Gérald Genta “Geneva” Time-Only SJX Watches
Mar 2, 2026

Hands On: Gérald Genta “Geneva” Time-Only

Like its sister brand Daniel Roth, Gérald Genta recently unveiled a model that is entirely new, rather than one based on the brand’s historical designs. The Geneva time-only is a two-hand watch with a minimalist yet distinctive design that manages to capture the spirit of 1980s and 1990s Gérald Genta without being a remake. The cushion-shaped case was debuted last year with a six-figure minute repeater, but now the brand has now applied the design to something more affordable, relatively speaking. Inside is a Zenith Elite automatic that’s been dressed up surprisingly well, above and beyond the usual presentation of the calibre. Initial thoughts The revived Gerald Genta’s debut model, the Oursin, was a reissue of sorts. The Geneva, on the other hand, is a more original creation that’s no doubt inspired by the typical Genta aesthetic, but not a like-for-like remake. It’s a testament to the design that the Geneva could pass for a 1990s Gerald Genta watch even though it is not. The Geneva almost wears like a 1990s watch as well. It’s compact by today’s standards, though these proportions would have been extra-large 30 years ago. Its slimness and narrow lugs give this a formal feel, though the colours are more vivid than usual for a dress watch. The dial is definitely more 21st century than the case, especially with the grained finish, but the gradient colour is evocative of the 1970s and suits the style of the watch. I imagine a great many more colours can be s...

Comments 2

  1. Anonymous
    the whole point of a dress watch is that it disappears on your wrist. precious metal cases, minimal dial, two hands. that's the formula.
    1. Anonymous replying to Anonymous
      totally agree on the invisibility factor, but i'd push back on "two hands only." a good three-hander with a clean dial still disappears just fine. it's really about restraint, not the hand count.

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