Hodinkee
Introducing: The A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Moonphase 25th Anniversary
The sixth limited-edition in the Lange 1 25th anniversary series celebrates the German watchmaker's unusual take on a moon phase display.
Hodinkee
The sixth limited-edition in the Lange 1 25th anniversary series celebrates the German watchmaker's unusual take on a moon phase display.
Deployant
The sixth model of the anniversary collection shows the moon by day and by night - the Lange 1 Moon Phase "25th Anniversary". Details within.
SJX Watches
With one watch unveiled each month since January, we are now more than halfway through the 10-piece Lange 1 “25th Anniversary” set. The latest addition, the Lange 1 Moon Phase “25th Anniversary” was supposed to be launched in June, but instead made its debut this month to coincide with the opening of the brand’s Zurich boutique. First introduced in 2002, the Lange 1 Moon Phase is essentially the base Lange 1 with the clever incorporation of a moon phase in the sub-seconds. Subsequently, the second generation Lange 1 Moon Phase also evolved to feature a more advanced moon phase display. The new and improved Lange 1 Moon Phase was novel for the fact that its moonphase display also doubled up as a day and night indicator. Instead of a single disc with two fixed moons as is convention, the display relies on a rotating figure of 8, with each end forming one gold moon. The “8” is superimposed on an independently revolving blue disc that represents the sky. Half the disc is in a light blue, indicating day time and the second half is dark blue for the night sky, with laser-cut stars dotting it. The deconstructed display of the Lange 1 Moon Phase On the commemorative Lange 1 Moon Phase “25th Anniversary” however, the moons are in white gold keeping in line with the anniversary colours of silver and blue. The dial of the watch is solid silver, with blued steel hands and blue printed numerals. Visible through the sapphire case back is the 25th Anniversary set’s ...
Revolution
Lange introduces the sixth timepiece as part of the Lange 1 25th anniversary collection, the Lange 1 Moon Phase “25th Anniversary”.
SJX Watches
While it’s a new brand that just made its debut, Genus is founded on the watchmaking talent of an industry insider who has spent a lifetime working on complications. Its first watch is the GNS 1 that tells the time with an ultra-exotic complication with the minutes travelling across the dial like a train. Conceptually the GNS 1 harks back to the burst of creativity that started in the early 2000s, when watchmakers went all out with imaginative complications to display the hours and minutes. This was the heyday of the Harry Winston Opus series and the birth of brands like MB&F and Urwerk. The brand Genus was founded by entrepreneur Catherine Henry and Sébastien Billières, founder of GMTI, a specialist watchmaking workshop. The son of a watchmaker, Mr Billières started his career at Roger Dubuis in 1999, followed by a stint at Urwerk. In 2011, he set up GMTI, which specialises in primarily in assembly and servicing of complicated movements for major watch brands. Now staffed by 25 watchmakers, GMTI’s repertoire is diverse, ranging from tourbillon movements bearing the Poinçon de Genève, or Geneva Seal, to time-only movements produced on an industrial scale. Telling the time According to Mr Billières, the GNS 1 is the realisation of his long-held ambition of creating his own watch, after spending his career doing it for others. The GNS 1 is essentially an exceptionally avant-garde display of the hours and minutes. Even when static the face is impressive...
SJX Watches
Last year’s Akrivia Chronomètre Contemporain made its young creator, Rexhep Rexhepi, a star, but the brand’s foundational watch is actually the “AK” series. Chunky and slightly sporty, the AK watches are a world away from the classical styling of the Chronomètre Contemporain, but boast the same level of movement finishing, along with a bonus of elaborately hand-hammered dials. The second model in the AK series was the AK-02 Tourbillon Heure Minute, or “Hour Minute” – a time-only watch with a tourbillon regulator. The AK-02 is probably the finest finished tourbillon wristwatch in its price segment, and in the price segments above it as well. The AK case It’s a fairly large watch, with the case measuring 43.0mm with and 12.9mm high. But the lugs are short so it feels fairly compact on the wrist. And because the AK-02 is typically found in a steel case, as is pictured here, or occasionally titanium, it is usually lightweight. Gold cases are available for a modest premium, though rarely requested. The case feels like it’s trying too hard, and consequently feels overly built, with thick lugs and a high case band. It’s too chunky for my taste, and doesn’t quite suit the refined movement inside. That being said, the AK-style case has it fans for several reason. The design is distinctive, more distinctive than the old school Chronomètre Contemporain case. And it is also finished to a high degree, with contrasting polished and brushed surfaces; the...
Time+Tide
When you look at Jaeger-LeCoultre’s core offerings from their Reverso and Master Collection lines it’s easy to see why the brand has something of a reputation for straight, sober watchmaking. But don’t forget that Jaeger-LeCoultre is also capable of absolute top-shelf high-complication, high-jewellery pieces like this (frankly astonishing) Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Zodiaque. So what … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Jaeger-LeCoultre’s Master Grande Tradition Tourbillon Zodiaque appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Every couple of years Vacheron Constantin gives one of its watches the ‘Collection Excellence Platine’ treatment, constructing the watch entirely in platinum, from case to the stitching on the leather strap. First introduced in 2006, the ‘Collection Excellence Platine’ range now consists of nine models, including the Traditionnelle World Time, Patrimony Traditionnelle 14-Day Tourbillon as well as Traditionnelle Complete Calendar that was launched last year. Now the line is joined by the hand-wound Traditionnelle, a simple, time-only watch executed in the most precious way possible. Small, heavy and monochromatic A focused exercise in classic dress watch design, the Traditionnelle Manual-winding is among the leading candidates in the category of hand-wound, time-only dress watches. It is arguably the quintessential Vacheron Constantin formal watch, being free of complications and superfluous elements. And though it faces strong competition from the likes of the A. Lange & Söhne 1815 and Patek Philippe Calatrava, the Traditionnelle ‘Collection Excellence Platine’ (CEP) is unique in being all-platinum, end to end. With the CEP treatment, the watch has evolved to its ultimate form. The dimensions of the case remain unchanged – 38mm wide and just 7.77mm high. It features discreet decorative details like a fluted case back and straight, angular lugs that incorporate the form of a Maltese cross. But in the area where most time-only dress wat...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Curious if the infamous Seiko Tank is right for you? Check out the stats, pros, cons, and everything else you need to know right here!
Hodinkee
The Knightsbridge Mecca gets a special run of 20 green-tinted dress watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The Codek Spiral is a bold watch. Part of the danger of wandering outside the lanes of standard design styles is that the identity of the watch can get lost. The Spiral is mostly a dress watch, however it is not clearly a dress watch.
Time+Tide
Increasingly, I’m finding myself drawn to watches that are understated, unassuming expressions of classical perfection. Which goes a long way to explaining why I was so into the Blancpain Villeret Extra Flat. This is an exquisitely simple watch. Two hands, no date and a manually wound movement. A pure expression of classical watchmaking if ever … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Dressy but not delicate, the Blancpain Villeret Extra Flat 6605 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
At this year’s SIHH, our Chief Editor shares his thoughts and feelings when he first saw the LANGE 1, and his passion for this special timepiece.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: Dress watches are one of those timepiece genres with very specific ‘rules’, and can be hard to nail. One watch that always manages to look elegant and on point in a dressy situation is the Cartier Tank. Like this Tank Louis Cartier we looked at a while back … It’s hard to overstate … ContinuedThe post This is the ultimate dress watch, and it has been for more than 100 years appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
This month's Lange 1 release for the Anniversary of the watch is the Lange 1 Timezone, in 25th Anniversary colours. Limited Edition of 25 pieces.
Revolution
A. Lange & Söhne continues the celebration of the iconic Lange 1’s 25th birthday with the Lange 1 Time Zone “25th Anniversary” edition.
Hodinkee
The distinctive travel watch gets a sleek blue-and-silver treatment.
Deployant
As we alluded to in our SIHH coverage, a new Lange 1 will be revealed every month on the 24/25th to celebrate the 25th anniversary of the Lange 1. Today’s article is delayed from our usual publishing time of 9:30pm Singapore time (now) to 2 am Saturday Singapore time due to the embargo requirements putRead More
Hodinkee
A thoroughly modern take on a classic dress watch.
Hodinkee
A look back at a wonderful travel watch from the heart of German watchmaking.
Deployant
In this week's Throwback Sunday article, we take a look at some of the finest two-hand watches that are available in the market right now.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: The Santos de Cartier is the perfect dress watch for modern times. Adaptable, versatile and restrained - but with a clear personality. It’s also based on a watch that’s more than 100 years old. Which really is a testament to good design. Long live the Santos! Few watches can rival Cartier’s Santos in terms … ContinuedThe post Cartier’s Santos de Cartier is the perfect dress watch for 2019 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Interested in the Orient Bambino? People call it the perfect budget dress watch. But does the timepiece stand up to the hype? Let's find out.
Time+Tide
In 2014, with the launch of its first Octo Finissimo (hand-wound) models, Bulgari rewrote the rules of skinny. Until then, an ultra-thin watch was defined by discreet styling, a round case, precious metal – in short, the ultimate dress watch. Then along came Octo Finissimo, with its shape-shifting trick of looking both supermodel-skinny and swaggeringly … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: Blacked-out – the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatic ceramic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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