Quill & Pad
IWC has Ceramic in its History and Today in its Pilot’s Watch collection
IWC has a long history with ceramic cases and today they are usually found in the brand's Big Pilot^s Watch collection.
Quill & Pad
IWC has a long history with ceramic cases and today they are usually found in the brand's Big Pilot^s Watch collection.
Monochrome
Alberto Santos-Dumont, the Brazilian aviator, and Louis Cartier shared a passion for machines and mechanics. In 1904, Louis Cartier presented Santos-Dumont with the first purpose-designed wristwatch with a solid, rounded square case and rivets on the bezel. The idea behind the watch was to allow Santos-Dumont to consult the time in the cockpit without having […]
Monochrome
Cartier’s longstanding affair with the intrepid Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont shows no sign of abating. Santos-Dumont’s request to Louis Cartier to create a timepiece that would let him consult the time without taking his hands off the controls resulted in the men’s first wristwatch in 1904. Characterised by sleek geometric lines, Cartier’s Santos-Dumont model has […]
Monochrome
It makes perfect sense for the world’s first custom-made pilot’s wristwatch to be equipped with a dual-time function. Fair enough, Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont probably didn’t cross too many time zones in his early flying machines, but combining the iconic Santos watch designed for him by Louis Cartier with dual time indications is a match […]
Fratello
We are lucky to have reached a phase in the modern industry where the standards of mass production are such that watches can endure all sorts of conditions. The adage “they don’t make them like they used to” hasn’t entirely panned out with watchmaking, at least regarding production quality (design, aesthetics, and luxury culture certainly […] Visit The IWC Fliegerchronograph 3706 - A Trusty Companion And Neo-Vintage Gem to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
The Navitimer is one of a very small handful of watches that is quite simply an undisputed classic. If you say the name, it conjures an immediate image in the mind’s eye: a busy pilot’s chronograph with an uncommon (but completely useful) slide rule bezel. It has the look of a real flight instrument because in a very real sense that’s exactly what it is. But the very idea of what a Navitimer can be has changed a lot in recent years, with the introduction of references that skip the chronograph entirely. The Navitimer is now more than just a single iconic watch, it’s a collection of aviation inspired watches that use the classic as a starting point but branch out into all kinds of new areas. It’s the kind of thing that purists, frankly, sneer at. But it’s an undeniably shrewd move by Breitling to get the Navitimer name out there, and the watches on the wrists of new customers who may not be interested in a toolish chronograph whose design hasn’t changed much for decades. So now, in an expansion of the collection tied to Breitling’s 140th anniversary, we have a new Navitimer GMT and Automatic 41. The Navitimer Automatic 41 is perhaps the most straightforward execution of the Navitimer aesthetic, sans chronograph, yet. It’s not the first Navitimer in a 41mm case without a chrono complication, but it is the first without a date at the 6:00 position. This dateless execution is considerably cleaner and will probably be of greater appeal to enthusiasts than ...
SJX Watches
To celebrate its 140th anniversary, Breitling is launching the Navitimer Automatic GMT 41. Zooming into the watch, the signature slide-rule bezel is still present, although this Navitimer omits the chronograph and replaces it with a GMT function. Featuring a 41 mm case in either stainless steel or 18k rose gold, it retains the classic Navitimer style, albeit with a cleaner look without the chronograph sub-dials. Initial Thoughts After revamping the Navitimer in 2022, Breitling gave its trademark aviator’s chronograph more vintage-inspired aesthetics, including more compact cases. Given that the Navitimer is synonymous with the chronograph, it’s not unreasonable to criticise the GMT has having lost some of the spirit of the original. However, I dig the cleaner aesthetics without the pushers and the triple registers. And this is also more affordable. Most Navitimer chronographs are equipped with the in-house B01 movement, resulting in an hefty entry price of US$9,600. The Navitimer Automatic GMT 41 is equipped with an ETA calibre, resulting in a slightly more affordable price that starts at US$6,200 on a stainless steel bracelet. Many other brands in this price bracket now utilise in-house or heavily improved movements, which puts this at a disadvantage in terms of mechanics. That puts it in the middle of the pack for accessible GMT watches: not as affordable as a Longines or the same value proposition as a Tudor, but it has the advantage of the classic Navitimer look th...
Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward is expanding its military watch line, with the new C63 Valour chronograph. Past Christopher Ward military watches have paid tribute to the British Army, Navy, and Air Force. The C63 Valour is the first watch in Christopher Ward’s lineup dedicated to all three branches. In creating the C63 Valour, watch designer Will Brackfield turned to “the British Military quartz watches of the 1980s, with applied and polished numerals.” The C63 Valour similarly features applied numerals and an applied logo in steel that pop against the black dial. In military watches, legibility is key, and it’s clear the C63 Valour draws on pilot watches in particular with its large Arabic numerals. It’s a minimalist watch face, with a lot of information laid out very simply, making it easy to read and a pleasure to look at. Lumed hour and minute hands make sure that it’s easy to read even at night. The three branches are represented on the watch in the steel subdials, which feature a light blue hand for the Air Force, a dark blue hand for the Navy, and a red hand for the Army. The caseback also features the three heraldic crests of the military branches, along with the queen’s crown in honor of the late Queen Elizabeth II. The watch features a 39mm stainless steel case with a lug-to-lug of 45.8mm. Inside is a battery-powered movement with a lifespan of three years and accuracy of plus or minus 10 seconds a year. Fitting for a watch that also pays tribute to the Royal Nav...
Teddy Baldassarre
Historically, Breitling is a watchmaker known for two horological specialties: aviation watches and chronographs. In its most famous timepieces, in fact, like the Navitimer and Chronomat, the two genres elegantly merge into an iconic whole. While this is still largely the case today, Breitling has also staked out for itself a successful and impactful niche in the category of dive watches; its robust and stylish Superocean collection, introduced in 1957 during the early heyday of recreational diving, continues to command a large and avid audience today. Now divided into two distinctively different yet historically related families - the Superocean and Superocean Heritage - and offering both three-hand and chronograph models in a steadily growing array of sizes, materials, and colorways, Breitling’s seaworthy fleet offers a sporty option for just about everyone. Here is a brief history of the Superocean and a guide to the modern collection. 1957: Ref. 1004 Diver and Ref. 807 Chronograph The launch of the original Superocean, Breitling’s first purpose-built divers’ watch, in 1957, was timed to commemorate 25 years at the helm of the company for Willy Breitling, the only son of founder Gaston Breitling and the inventor of such enduring classics as the Chronomat and Navitimer. Commercially, it was also driven by the growing popularity of scuba diving as a hobby and the subsequent market desire for wristwatches that could be worn underwater. Several of that genre’s p...
Revolution
Fratello
Not to let its recent Aerospace B70 Orbiter hog the spotlight, Breitling is also unveiling a plethora of new Navitimers. Curiously, only one of these Navis is a chronograph, and it’s in the form of the limited-edition self-winding 18K red gold Cosmonaute. Considering there are nine other watches (double that with strap variants) without a […] Visit Breitling Unleashes A Slew Of New Navitimers, Including An Automatic Cosmonaute to read the full article.
Deployant
Hands-on with the new Breitling Navitimer 41. Both the Automatic as well as the GMT models are explopred in this novelty release article.
Monochrome
Since the 1970s, Yema has been partnering with various branches of the French defence force as an official supplier of timing instruments. This longstanding partnership encompassed various iterations of Yema’s iconic Superman dive watch, which could be found on the wrists of Helicopter Rescue Divers as well as French Air Force Pilots. Expanding its collection, […]
Time+Tide
Breguet CEO Lionel a Marca gave us the exclusive that a bracelet was coming to the Type XX/20, and now it has finally arrived!The post A new bracelet has been introduced into the Breguet Type XX / Type 20 collection with a micro-adjustment system appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
eBay Finds is back! This bi-monthly installment will feature a selection of watches currently listed on eBay that have caught the eye of editor Christoph McNeil (@vintagediver). If you come across any hidden gems on the ‘Bay drop us a note at info@wornandwound.com for potential inclusion! Vintage Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster By now I think most vintage watch collectors are familiar with the fantastically named Nivada Grenchen Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver. I mean, you just can’t beat a watch that literally covers all the bases right? There are numerous iterations of the Chronomaster, and this is one of the better looking ones in my opinion. The black dial is nice and clean with gorgeous lume, with bright white hands for excellent contrast. The chrono seconds hand has a large lollipop tip. The large steel case is unpolished with sharp edges and sweet chamfers on the lugs. Even the crown is signed with the Nivada logo. Overall this is a great piece. The seller states the watch works but is a little slow and the chrono seconds hand doesn’t quite reset to zero, so keep that in mind when bidding. View auction here Vintage Wittnauer Here we have a really cool looking vintage Wittnauer. The steel case is nice with really good looking lugs, and it looks unpolished with sharp edges. Seller doesn’t state the size but I’d guess about 34mm wide. The silver dial gives off Polerouter vibes with the outer chapter ring. Thin steel hands with nice lume plots that match the...
Hodinkee
Plus a wild card entry from Bell & Ross.
Monochrome
Founded in 1861 in Schramberg, Germany, Junghans was once the largest clock manufacturer in the world, renowned by many for Max Bill’s famous Bauhaus kitchen clock. Moving from clocks to more specialised timing devices, Junghans produced everything from flight instruments to speedometers and from pilot’s watches to chronometers and chronographs, without forgetting the brand’s role […]
Fratello
Welcome to another Sunday Morning Showdown here on Fratello. Please get yourself ready because today’s confrontation promises to be a good one. In 2022, IWC introduced a new version of its Pilot’s Watch - the Mark XX. Then, last year, Zenith took it one step further with a complete revision of its Pilot line. That’s […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Zenith Pilot Automatic Vs. IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XX to read the full article.
Monochrome
Last year, IWC unveiled a pair of Big Pilot watches inspired by the iconic Mercedes G-Class, particularly the powerful AMG G 63 version, a completely excessive and irrational EUR 200k machine boasting 585 horsepower and accelerating from 0 to 100 km/h in just 4.5 seconds, all of that in a 2-meter high body that was […]
Worn & Wound
“Just a Minute” is a short-form video series designed to present all the facts about our favorite products in under 60 seconds. These are easy to consume and provide quick but thorough rundowns on everything you need to know. We continue to receive great feedback about this format, so we intend on creating more videos just for you. As always, we encourage you to join our rewards program to earn points and save with every purchase. The Windup Watch Shop team is also available to schedule a consultation with you and answer any questions you have. Finally, use code WWSFIRST on your first purchase from the Windup Watch Shop to enjoy 10% off select items. Today’s double feature hails from the DIN Hamburg line from Laco. Based in Pforzheim, Germany, Laco approaches its 100th anniversary by continuing to build purposeful tool watches for a variety of specialists. The DIN lineup is particularly interesting as its watches are built to the exacting standards of the Deutsche Industrie Norme, now known as the German Institute of Standardization. The two references featured today may share the same foundational case, but they are two very different watches indeed. The pilot watch is exactly what you’d expect from a company that cut its teeth on building pilot’s watches, while the GMT is a paragon of legibility in the skies. Check out the video below for more, and shop the full Laco collection in the Windup Watch Shop here! “Just a Minute” is a short-form video series de...
Time+Tide
We get our hands on this motorsports-oriented chronograph ahead of the 2024 Formula 1 World Championship kicking off this weekend.The post The IWC Pilot’s Watch Performance Chronograph 41, a Mercedes F1 collab, is the brand’s first proper racing chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
This black and green BR-03 dive watch is unafraid to show its age.
Monochrome
Talking about Bell & Ross means talking about square watches. The two go hand in hand, like a fine wine and a good piece of cheese. The brand became known for its circle-in-a-square design since the first BR 01 in 2005, and even today, Bell & Ross finds ways to keep it fresh and interesting. […]
Monochrome
Hanhart, the German brand that started life in Switzerland as a manufacturer of stopwatches before relocating to Germany in 1902, gained renown as a producer of Flieger (pilot’s) chronographs. In the mid-1950s, Hanhart built the 417, the first pilot’s chronograph for the German Armed Forces, with an emphasis on robustness, reliability, and readability. In circulation […]
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