Pilot Watches · Page 18

IWC’s Pilot’s Chronograph 41 Finally Gets a Ceramic Case

In the midst of what can only be described as Ingenieur Mania at Watches & Wonders a few weeks ago, IWC quietly unveiled a pair of watches in their Pilot collection that would have certainly been the headline grabbing highlights in almost any other year. It’s interesting in terms of strategy (they clearly wanted to focus heavily on the new Ingenieur, a watch that has been long requested by collectors and clearly represents years of fine tuning) and because, well, the new Pilot’s Chronographs on display were kind of awesome, and show that even in an off year, IWC is completely committed to maintaining their King of the Pilot Watch status.  What we have here are two 41mm Pilot’s Chronographs in ceramic, which represents the first time the brand has gone ceramic in this particular size. You’ll recall that last year the marquee releases were two colored ceramic Pilot’s Chronos (in “Tahoe” white and “Woodland” green), but both were in a somewhat unwieldy 44.5mm case. The 41mm size was introduced in steel in 2021, a welcome downsize from the 43mm case IWC had been using immediately prior, and has since seen versions in titanium and Ceratanium. IWC has demonstrated a fondness for variety when it comes to materials, so it was only a matter of time before the smaller pilot chrono got the ceramic treatment.  First up, the Pilot’s Chronograph in “Oceana,” a shade of blue developed with Pantone, and inspired by the color of overalls worn by members of the Uni...

A Picture of Good Stealth: Luminox Unveils the Master Carbon SEAL Automatic

When it comes to military watches, my mind draws a bold red line between two distinct types. First, there’s the batch that originates from the vintage kin. You know, the Dirty Dozen field watch, the stoic flieger, and of course the quintessential stainless steel diver. Then there’s the modern and robust digital watch equipped with the innovative case material and a slew of multi-functions that you’d need more than two hands to count. But the happy medium between the two has always been within Luminox, a brand that has fostered and maintained a partnership with the U.S. Navy SEALs for three decades and counting. The latest addition to the Navy SEAL Luminox collection blends together a new case material and their patented Luminox Light Technology, while still keeping the spirit of analog time – it’s called the Master Carbon SEAL Automatic inspired by the Frogmen’s grind, grit, and durability. The Master Carbon SEAL Automatic utilizes a lightweight and rugged case made out of CARBONOX+. This forward-looking material boasts ultra-strong and weatherproof properties that in weight, equates to three times lighter than titanium. The unique feature that comes along with the “+” in the CARBONOX+ name is its stealthy gray tint which also displays the fingerprint-esque carbon fiber pattern that is individual to each watch. Except with the Master Carbon SEAL Automatic, the carbon fiber execution is much more subtle, displaying less of the white swirls we’ve seen in ot...

Hands-On with All the New Zenith Releases at Watches & Wonders

Zenith relaunched their Pilot this year, in one of the most closely watched releases of Watches & Wonders. It’s one of those watches that was just hard to know what to make of it until seeing it in the metal (or ceramic), but both Zach Kazan and Blake Buettner were surprised by it in different ways. Here are their thoughts on the new Pilot watches, as well as a pair of genuine sleepers: a Defy Revival Shadow in bead blasted titanium, and an all new Defy Skyline in full ceramic (including the bracelet).  Pilot Zach: What I found when I finally went hands-on with the Pilot watches at Watches & Wonders last week was a collection of aviation inspired watches that didn’t feel the need to hew too close to tradition, either Zenith’s or the genre of pilot watches more generally. These watches, actually, reminded me of my favorite vintage Defy references in a surprising way, in that they were weird and unexpected, but still worked and were fun to wear. This isn’t a typical pilot watch in the same way a Defy from the mid-70s isn’t a typical sports watch. Their sensibility is tweaked just a little, to the point where there are few direct comparisons you can make to other watches. I guess what I’m trying to say is that they’re original in a way that few watches in this category are anymore.  The chronograph is the standout, in my opinion, and if I had to choose, I’d take the one in steel. There are two things about this watch that I really love. First, the way the ac...

Bell & Ross Adds an Attractive Blue GMT to the Collection

Bell & Ross has expanded their offering of GMT equipped watches at this year’s Watches & Wonders with the BR 03-93 GMT Blue. A GMT complication is perhaps the most natural additional feature for a watch that’s so tied to aviation. The iconic square case shape of the BR 03 is modeled after what you might find on an instrument cluster in an aircraft. For this new reference, Bell & Ross is employing a combination of colors that are not frequently seen together, at least within the Bell & Ross catalog, but they complement each other incredibly well.    The story here starts with the dial, which is a gorgeous shade of bright blue with a sunray finish. Bell & Ross tells us they’ve designed the dial with pure functionality in mind, thinking through the complementing colors in terms of legibility. Large Arabic numerals at the cardinal positions combined with big lume filled hands immediately orient the wearer of the watch to the local time at a glance. The oversized red arrow on the GMT hand is also lume filled and meant to be similarly immediately identifiable. As is the custom for Bell & Ross with recent releases, lume has been emphasized and applied liberally across the various dial furniture. Everything on the dial is big and well defined, and one can imagine it would be hard to confuse local for GMT time, and vice-versa.   The case is classic Bell & Ross, rendered in stainless steel and measuring 42mm across. Rather than a traditional blue and red bezel, Bell & Ross ...

VIDEO: Bell & Ross’s new BR 03-93 GMT Blue, BR 03-92 Diver White Bronze and BR 05 Green Gold

Bell & Ross was started in 1992 by two young Frenchmen from Paris, Bruno Belamich and Carlos A-Rosillo. Over 30 years later, the brand has created numerous horological icons, now has movements developed by Kenissi and enjoys the support of part shareholder Chanel. In this video, Bell & Ross co-founder Carlos A-Rosillo introduces his eponymous […]

Zenith Relaunches the Pilot with Two New Aviation Themed Watches

It’s the year of the Pilot for Zenith. After shoring up their Chronomaster collection and injecting new life into the Defy over the last few years, Zenith has returned to the Pilot collection and given it a complete revamp. The Pilot is a historic line for Zenith, having trademarked the word “Pilote” all the way back in 1888 (and “Pilot” in 1904). In the early days of the company, the brand focused largely on the manufacture of flight instruments and watches for pilots. They of course weren’t the only brand to cut their manufacturing teeth on the burgeoning need for these types of devices, but were (and still are) the only brand to trademark the word “Pilot,” which allows them the opportunity to use it on the dial in a way other brand’s can’t. The new collection is a stab at bringing something very old in Zenith’s history and making it new in a very explicit way. In other words, these aren’t vintage inspired pilot’s watches, but something far more contemporary. There are two new watches making their debut this week, each in two different materials, for a total of four new Pilots flying their way into boutiques soon enough. The Pilot Automatic is a three hander running on the El Primero 3620, the same chrono-less EP movement found in the Defy Skyline collection. We get a date at 6:00, right below a horizontal line that is meant to recall indicators on a pilot’s instrument panel to refer them back to the horizon line. The Arabic numerals are large...

IWC’s Pilot’s Watch line-up gets four new additions

For Watches & Wonders 2023, IWC have introduced three new references of IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41. Among the new trio are new cases in Oceana blue ceramic and 18k 5N gold. The Big Pilot’s Watch Perpetual Calendar is also now available with a racing green dial. IWC releasing more variety of Pilot’s Watches should … ContinuedThe post IWC’s Pilot’s Watch line-up gets four new additions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Take Some Me-Time With Oris & The New ProPilot X Kermit Edition

Oris is expanding on their popular ProPilot X range of watches this year (a watch we reviewed here), but probably not in the way you were expecting. Meet the ProPilot X Kermit Edition, a green dial ProPilot X with a positive message and an easter egg up its sleeve. This watch represents Oris’ first time collaborating with Disney’s The Muppets franchise to create a truly unique experience around their popular pilot watch, and it gives us a deeper insight into Oris the brand than ever before. The theme of this watch is taking a minute for yourself, not taking life too seriously, and a reminder to have some fun.  The most striking detail of this ProPilot X is, obviously, the bright green dial. It’s not just any green, this is a key lime pie, cartoon level of green, and with a name like this you had better bring it. And bring it Oris most certainly has with this dial. I’d go so far as to say they could have ditched the white hour markers altogether and fully leaned into the concept, but they are there, so there is a level of practicality to the watch. There’s even a date window, but that part isn’t as straightforward. The big reveal of this watch happens on the first of every month, where the date window will reveal not a number, but an icon of the watch’s namesake, Kermit the Frog, of The Muppets fame. This is the once a month reminder to take a step back, lighten up a bit, and reflect on the positives in your life. That’s the idea, at least, and it might jus...

Zenith’s Pilot Watches Take Flight at Watches & Wonders

Engineering a classic: The history of IWC’s Ingenieur

While IWC is rightly known for their wide range of classic Pilot’s watches, including the Big Wrist Energy radiating from their Big Pilot’s models, their many chronograph references, and the flieger-style Mark series, there’s another name that’s no less important in their history: The Ingenieur. First developed in the 1950s for technical and scientific applications, … ContinuedThe post Engineering a classic: The history of IWC’s Ingenieur appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Vivified Air: Fortis Livens Up Their Flieger Collection with New Dial Colors

Human flight has long been an inspiration and a momentous force within Fortis’ history. Dating back to as early as 1929, Lady Grace Drummond-Hay completed the world’s first circumnavigation in a Zeppelin LZ127 – on her wrist, a Fortis Harwood. In 1995, Fortis was also a part of a record-breaking flight that took aeronautical photographer, Alexandre Paringaux, to an altitude of 30,045m, reaching speeds as high as Mach 3.13 in a Mig-25 PU. Around that time, Fortis had also released their first-ever Flieger, aptly named the Sky-watch. Fortis Flieger F-43 Bicompax Petrol Inspired by the functional designs of the B-Uhr harkening back to WWII, the Sky-watch had all the tell-tale features of a traditionally designed pilot’s watch – can’t miss Arabic hour numerals, triangular 12 o’clock marker, and sword hands. Up until today, particularly the use of a black dial, splash of orange accents, and sickly green markers and hands, that design has largely remained unchanged. Recently, Fortis has injected some color into their entire Flieger collection with an array of different dial colors giving their pilot’s watch a new-found contemporary energy. Fortis Flieger F-39 Petrol First up in the Fortis fleet, we have the Flieger F-39 and F-41 sporting three new dial colors: Black, Petrol, and Liberty Blue. The difference that immediately stands are the markers and hands that no longer have the faded luminova shade. Instead, they’ve been whited out, but still remain legible a...

Nivada Grenchen Breaks the Mold by Teaming Up with Fratello on the Brand-New Racing Chronograph

Nivada Grenchen’s formula for success is quite simple. Since the brand came back bursting onto the scene by re-releasing collection mainstays in the Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver and the Antarctic in 2020, Guillaume Laidet and Remi Chabrat has continued to tap into the brand’s expansive vintage catalog full of no-fuss field watches, funky divers and bold chronographs. Bit by bit, Nivada Grenchen has given us a full-on history lesson with a steady cadence of re-releases built for the modern day wearer and enthusiast. The brand has also made more of a concentrated effort by providing more affordable options with the same charming vintage aesthetic. I think I can speak for everyone when I say, we welcome all of this with open arms (especially the affordable part). But Nivada Grenchen isn’t just a one trick pony. We’ve seen the brand take more of an open-minded approach via their collaborations. Heck, we got a flurry of them to close out 2022, with each special edition piece embracing what their collaborative partner brings to table, while simultaneously encapsulating the brand’s 70’s vintage design language. I’ve said this plenty of times, and I’ll say it again, collaborations allow brands to let their hair down. To step outside of the box. To try something entirely new. And the result is something quite refreshing for us enthusiasts. That’s exactly what we’ve been getting from Nivada Grenchen and their forays into the collaborative space. Now Nivada Gren...

The Tutima x Revolution M2 Coastline Chronograph is a Modern Flieger That Hits all the Right Notes

Watches with a military heritage or connection have always held the fascination of collectors and enthusiasts, due to their robust qualities and a love for the romanticized ideals of fighting for one’s country. And then there is a special class of chronographs used throughout history by German military pilots, also known as fliegers, that have […]

Introducing: The Breitling Navitimer Was Released 70 Years Ago – And This Year It's Back In A Big Way

Three sizes, two case materials, and one legendary pilot's watch.

Nivada Grenchen Gives Us the Best of All Worlds with Chronoking Meca-Quartz

Nivada Grenchen’s Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver represents their interpretation of a multi-functional steel sports chronograph teeming with vintage attributes. The collection’s signature – a two subdial display, tachymeter scale integrated into the outer dial, and a rotating bezel that subtly incorporates a 12 hour display giving the already highly capable chronograph the ability to track another timezone. The vintage aesthetic doesn’t just harken back to the designs of your classic steel sport of watch of the 60’s and 70’s, it actually pulls from the very same design cues of the original Nivada Grenchen chronographs. Nivada’s current Chronoking Manual in particular retains the collection’s design language, but doubles down on the age-old appearance with its chocolate-toned subdials and yellow markers. Topping it all off, the Chronoking encases a Sellita SW510 manual movement in a tidy 38mm case. These are all attractive features and the norm within the Chronoking, as well as the rest of the Chronomaster Aviator Sea Diver collection. The only caveat here is that their chronographs are positioned within a crowded price tier filled with brands offering something relatively similar in design and function. However recently, Nivada Grenchen released a very enticing iteration of their Chronoking in the Chronoking Meca-Quartz. Albeit sold out, the Nivada Grenchen Chronoking Meca-Quartz includes all the charming traits and functionality at an approachable $479. Vi...

Airain Updates their Type 20 in a Stealthy Gray Limited Edition

Airain, the heritage watch brand that made a triumphant return in 2020 with their Type 20 reissue, is back with a new spin on the popular (and historic) chronograph that gives it a sleek and under the radar look. Airain, you might remember, is one of the original French manufacturers of the Type 20 chronograph, the military aviator’s watch issued to French pilots in the 1950s and 60s. Several watchmakers were contracted by the French Ministry of Defense to produce the watches to spec, including Mathey Tissot, Dodane, and, most famously, Breguet. Vintage examples of the Type 20 are highly collectible, and Breguet of course still produces a variety of excellent chronographs under the moniker. Brands like Hemel and Massena LAB have also gotten in on the Type 20 action recently, which might harken a boom in interest in these very specific chronographs.  The specificity, I think, is part of the charm. Like other watches built for military purposes, the Type 20 was made to a certain standard, with certain key features, regardless of the manufacturer that actually produced it. In the case of the Type 20, those requirements included a black dial with registers at 3:00 and 6:00, giving the wearer the ability to time events up to 30 minutes in duration, along with a 38mm case diameter, a rotating 12 hour bezel, lumed hands and Arabic numerals, and accuracy to within 8 seconds per day. The other key feature was that the chronograph needed to have flyback functionality, a requireme...

INTRODUCING: The Hanhart Pioneer Flieger One NightBlue delivers a contemporary twist on an old favourite

Hanhart’s Pioneer One range is getting even more modern with a black PVD case The almost-iridescent blue dial matches the suede leather strap The dimensions are still large like a traditional flieger at 42mm Heritage can get you far in the watch world, but a brand can’t rest on its laurels forever. The Pioneer 417 … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Hanhart Pioneer Flieger One NightBlue delivers a contemporary twist on an old favourite appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Longines Reaches Back Nearly 100 Years for their Latest Heritage Release, the Pilot Majetek

Longines receives a lot of well deserved acclaim from the watch community for the tasteful way they recreate historical watches. They not only have a knack for getting the proportions and small details of these watches just right, but over the years they’ve been incredibly smart about the watches they select to reissue. Longines is essentially curating a living museum of watches that are important not just to their own brand history, but watch history writ large. Even if a particular reference is not to your taste, the fact these watches are out there preserving the brand’s heritage is important – it allows enthusiasts to really learn something about watch history, even if they never own the watch in question. Their first novelty of 2023 is a prime example of Longines teaching all of us a little bit about their past. The Longines Pilot Majetek is an uncommon pilot’s watch with a design that has roots in the 1930s.  When we think of aviation watches, our minds probably go to simple designs rooted in pure legibility. The IWC Mark series, for example, provides something of a foundation for how we understand pilot watches today. Big numerals, plenty of lume, and generous proportions. For a time in the 1920s and 30s, however, pilot’s watches made by Longines were defined by a feature we now associate with a very different type of tool watch: a rotating bezel. These so-called “aviation counters” placed an emphasis on timing the duration of a flight, and used a sim...

A Kind of Majetek – The New Longines New Heritage Pilot Watch

Longines Introduces the Pilot Majetek

Long associated with professional pursuits in the early years of the 20th century, Longines made watches worn by explorers, scientists, soldiers, and aviators. Examples include the chronographs made for the hydrographic institute of the Italian navy in the 1930s and the wristwatches supplied to the British army in the 1940s. One of the brand’s most distinctive watches from the period was the cushion-shaped aviator’s watch made for the personnel of the Czech air force in 1935, which has now been reimagined as the Pilot Majetek. Initial thoughts The Pilot Majetek is actually Longines’ second outing in reissuing the Czech air force original. Launched almost a decade ago, the first reissue had too many elements (including a date and “automatic” on the dial) that instantly gave away the fact that it was a modern watch. In contrast, the Pilot Majetek avoids those pitfalls. The design is not a like-for-like reproduction of the original as it has a bulked-up case with crown guards and a wider bezel amongst other tweaks. But it doesn’t have any design elements that stand out as being inappropriate in a vintage-inspired watch. So on its face the Pilot Majetek appears to tick all the boxes as a vintage reissue, but with a big few caveat. Though I’ve yet to see it in person, it is almost certainly a bulky watch at 43 mm in diameter and over 13 mm high, essentially the same dimensions as a chunky sports chronograph and certainly much larger than the 41 mm original, whic...

The Longines Pilot Majetek is a wrist-mounted flight instrument with a storied past

From measuring Lindberg’s first transatlantic flight to the monopusher chronograph worn by Amelia Earhart and the Weems, Longines’ tradition of pilot’s watches is a storied one. By the time the 1930s rolled around, Longines had developed a simple system for tracking time in the form of an arrow that rotated with the bezel. You could … ContinuedThe post The Longines Pilot Majetek is a wrist-mounted flight instrument with a storied past appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Pre-Owned Picks: Five Unusual Watches That Are New To The Shop

Most of us are familiar with a Submariner or a Navitimer, so now let's look at the hidden gems in some of the most popular brand's catalogs.

A black dial finally makes its way into the IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 collection

Black quietly makes its debut within the standard IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 collection. This latest iteration of the 2021 model measures in at 41mm in diameter and 51.8mm lug-to-lug. The watch features IWC’s 69835 calibre and the brand’s patented EasX-CHANGE system. The Pilot’s Watch is arguably the brand’s most recognisable line, and among the more … ContinuedThe post A black dial finally makes its way into the IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph 41 collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Breitling Pays Tribute to Giants in the Sky with Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Boeing 747

When the Boeing 747 was revealed to the world in 1968, it instantly introduced a new era in air travel. Those in attendance, press and interested aviators alike, had no words for what they were looking at. The sheer size of the aircraft and its distinct upward curve above the flight deck was nothing like any other plane that was carrying passengers 30,000 feet up in the air at the time. It quickly became a coveted experience to travel in a Boeing 747, and that’s saying something considering this was a time where people got dressed up to fly in an airplane. Not like now, where sweatpants, a cozy hoodie, and noise canceling headphones are the norm. Flying back then was an event. The lore of the Boeing 747 only grew, as it was featured in many films including the 1973 James Bond flick, Live and Let Die. Even till this very day, the 747 is the aircraft of choice for the President of the United States. Introducing For The First Time Ever, The Boeing 747 But like all good things, they must come to an end. After 1,570 individual jets and 53 years of navigating the skies, the Boeing 747 has finally decided to retire. And to celebrate the original jumbo jet, Breitling has released a limited edition piece in partnership with Boeing called the Navitimer B01 Chronograph 43 Boeing 747. Breitling has a history that is deep rooted in aviation. Their very first designs, from dial layout to various complications, were created with pilots in mind. With both brands having a rich heritage i...