Hodinkee
Introducing: The Zenith Defy Skyline White Ceramic Skeleton
A new color brings a summer look to Zenith's Defy Skyline collection.
Skeleton & Openworked Watches · Page 16
Hodinkee
Worn & Wound
Monta Adds a GMT Complication to the Noble Collection with the New Noble Voyager
Monta has announced an upgrade to their popular Noble collection today with the Noble Voyager. This new watch expands on the Noble concept, which is an old-fashioned luxury sport watch with distinct refined details that place just a click outside the “tool watch” category, by adding a GMT complication. This, of course, makes complete sense for a sports watch that was conceived to go anywhere. Now, when you go there (or, anywhere) you’ll be fully able to monitor an additional time zone. The execution here is quite subtle, and unless you were really searching for it, it would be easy to miss the GMT complication entirely. Monta has chosen to make the 24 hour hand a skeletonized clone of the local hour hand rather than a more traditional long hand with a broad arrow tip, or something of that nature. This helps to keep the Noble Voyager’s dial clean so that the drama of the lightly textured dégradé dials (in green or blue) remain intact. This was always my favorite design element of the original Noble, and I’m glad to see that Monta has held this over from the time and date versions of the watch. Besides the additional hand and a 24 hour scale at the dial’s perimeter, this is still very easily recognized as a Noble. The Noble Voyager’s case has nearly the same dimensions as the time and date model, measuring 38.5mm in diameter and 47mm lug to lug. The difference comes in the case height measurement, which is 10.7mm on the Noble Voyager compared to 9.7mm on ...
Fratello
Introducing: New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked Variations
Some watches are more emblematic of their manufacturers than others. The Royal Oak is certainly the brand hero for Audemars Piguet. The opening of calibers, however, is equally characteristic of the Maison from Le Brassus. So it is no exaggeration to say that an openworked Royal Oak is about as AP as it gets. The […] Visit Introducing: New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked Variations to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
The Zenith Defy Skyline Gets the White Ceramic, Skeleton Dial Treatment
I’ll be upfront here: I love the Defy. All the Defys. I’ve said many times to many people that the Defy is probably my favorite sports watch line of all time. It’s certainly my favorite corner of the Zenith catalog, and vintage Defy references are some of the coolest you can own, and somehow still represent a great value compared to comparable sports watches from other brands. To me, these watches have historically been exactly the right combination of avant-garde design and sports watch functionality. A Defy, unlike a Submariner, for example, can be both an art piece and an everyday wearer. They are also consistently interesting from a materials perspective, particularly when they get into colored ceramic, as they have with the newest Defy introduced today, a successor of sorts to one of my favorite watches from last year. The Defy Skyline White Ceramic Skeleton is in some ways a predictable, natural evolution of the current generation Defy. It takes the ceramic case and bracelet we saw in last year’s black model, turns them white, and gives us the skeleton dial treatment that debuted early last year. It’s a similar trajectory to the Defy Classic releases from several years back, which started in titanium, with colorful skeletonized ceramic versions to follow. This new reference is a little different though for how it plays with contrast. Against the stark white of the case and bracelet, we get a skeletonized blue dial and a movement in a matching shade. Tha...
Monochrome
First Look – The Zenith Defy Skyline White Ceramic Skeleton
Released in 2022, the Defy Skyline collection was Zenith‘s answer to the large demand for sports watches with integrated design and bracelet. Since its initial introduction, we have seen multiple new editions of this watch, including compact versions, ceramic models, a chronograph and even a high-frequency tourbillon. But one of the most impactful models was […]
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Bold and Ultra-Modern Roger Dubuis Excalibur Titanium Monotourbillon
Mr Roger Dubuis founded his eponymous brand in 1995, swiftly achieving success with timepieces that deftly balance traditional watchmaking craftsmanship and bold, expressive designs. Since 2003, the brand has been renowned for its expertise in tourbillon watches, starting with the calibre RD03. This fully integrated manufacture has since become a specialist in architectural skeletonised tourbillons, […]
Monochrome
First Look – Three New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked 41mm
Audemars Piguet powerfully demonstrates the theory that “two is better than one” in the Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked, a coveted collector’s model with two balance wheels for increased chronometric precision and viewing pleasure. Following the recently released 37mm tone-on-tone gold version, AP proposes a trilogy of 41mm models in steel, black ceramic and […]
Fratello
Introducing: The Garrick S3 MK2 - Open-Worked Complexities With A Personalizable Twist
Quintessential, exclusive watchmaking is more than Swiss. Garrick is a brand we’ve covered before and one that has carved its path. With the new S3 MK2, Garrick offers, along with other European brands like Grönefeld, a studied alternative to timepieces from the Alpine valleys. With a range spanning three-handers like the S6 to the Regulator […] Visit Introducing: The Garrick S3 MK2 - Open-Worked Complexities With A Personalizable Twist to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Breguet Introduces the Double Tourbillon “Quai de l’Horloge” 5345 in Rose Gold
Abraham-Louis Breguet was granted a patent for the tourbillon on June 16, 1801. On the birthday of his celebrated invention, Breguet launches the facelifted, rose gold iteration of the Breguet Classique Double Tourbillon “Quai de l’Horloge” 5345. The brand’s most formidable tourbillon, the Double Tourbillon is a remarkable timepiece that blends forward-thinking mechanics with traditional craftsmanship, all presented in a striking, oversized case. Initial thoughts While the newest iteration of the Double Tourbillon collection is not actually new (the original version was launched four years ago), the complication never ceases to amaze. The watch is an impressive demonstration of artisanal skill, with open worked movement revealing a plethora of decorated surfaces, each showcasing a different finishing technique. The three-dimensional calibre is built upon an 18k rose gold main plate that’s been engine turned with a new wave guilloche developed by Breguet. And the reverse of the watch reveals the bridges of the movement that are entirely hand engraved with a detailed scene of 19th century Paris. Beyond the artisanal finishes, the movement is a highly technical affair. It features no dial, with the movement forming the face. Not only does it include two tourbillon regulators, each with its own going train and barrel, but half of the movement itself is geared to rotate once every 12 hours. The watch is large for the classic Breguet style, but the chunky case is i...
Monochrome
First Look – The New H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Concept Minute Repeater Tourbillon
Introduced just four years ago, H. Moser & Cie‘s luxury Streamliner sports watch debuted with a flyback chronograph and swiftly expanded its complications repertoire to include perpetual calendars, tourbillons and skeletonised models. The latest Streamliner ascends the complications ladder with the combination of a sophisticated minute repeater and flying tourbillon. While Moser’s resilient Streamliner case provides a […]
Worn & Wound
Garrick Officially Unveils the S3 MK2
Garrick has officially unveiled the S3 MK2, the current top of the brand’s range, representing all that the British indie is capable of. Garrick is one of the most ambitious brands in the independent space, and like other brands that operate fully on their own terms, they have a way of doing things that looks and feels unfamiliar if you’re accustomed to more common mass produced watches. Literally every Garrick watch is effectively a unique piece, customized to each client’s specifications, and thus each watch is an opportunity for the brand to learn, adapt, and refine their approach. With the S3 MK2, Garrick has tweaked the finishing of their proprietary caliber, offering a heightened experience for those who commission one. If you follow Garrick on Instagram, you might remember that this project was initially announced in 2023, but is just now seeing the light of the day (naturally, all allocations for the remainder of the year have sold out). The S3 MK2 acts as a showcase for Garrick’s accomplishments in traditional hand finishing. The UT-GO4 is visible underneath the highly skeletonized dial, offering many opportunities for Garrick to flex their finishing prowess. Wheels, pinions, and bridges have been finished to a significantly higher spec than on the first S3 for a more coherent and luxurious look. The wheels, for instance, are grained rather than polished or frosted, which implies a greater degree of handwork. According to Garrick, other components were r...
Time+Tide
What is a skeletonised watch, and why you’ve likely been using the term wrong
Borna explores where the art of skeletonisation came from, and what the word encapsulates today.The post What is a skeletonised watch, and why you’ve likely been using the term wrong appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The new Garrick S3 MK2 ups the ante with an openworked dial and refined exclusive calibre
British independent Garrick introduces the latest and greatest variant of its latest and greatest, the S3 MK2.The post The new Garrick S3 MK2 ups the ante with an openworked dial and refined exclusive calibre appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Hands-On With The Ulysse Nardin Diver Net OPS And Diver X Skeleton OPS
Ulysse Nardin would not be the first brand I’d turn to when considering modern dive watches. But I must admit that the Diver Net OPS and the Diver X Skeleton OPS in this review immediately stood out when I saw the pictures online. Both watches feature a military-inspired camouflage look that I quite like, so […] Visit Hands-On With The Ulysse Nardin Diver Net OPS And Diver X Skeleton OPS to read the full article.
Monochrome
Hands-on – The Appealing looks of the TAG Heuer Monaco Chronograph Skeleton Dark Blue
Changes to the appearance are often a more frequent feature of the TAG Heuer Monaco series than groundbreaking innovation in its mechanics. And over the years the brand almost always successfully implemented the use of new materials and updated designs, with the recent 2023 introduction of open-worked dials to the collection preceding the launch of […]
Monochrome
Introducing – The Code 41 UNIFY Calls For Tolerance, Equality and Diversity.
Since founding Code41 in 2016, Lausanne-based designer Claudio D’Amore has set his brand apart through transparency, community engagement, and fair pricing. From a product perspective, Code41 has developed a unique portfolio of watches with distinct aesthetics, sporty vibes, and often featuring openworked dials. The brand’s latest collection, UNIFY, is somewhat more approachable and consensual. However, […]
Worn & Wound
The Latest Collaboration Between TAG Heuer and Porsche Celebrates the German Automaker’s History in Endurance Racing
TAG Heuer has unveiled their latest Carrera, another collaboration with Porsche, officially dubbed the Carrera Chronograph x Porsche 963. As watch enthusiasts know, there’s a range of how “Porschey” these collaborations get. Sometimes they simply have the German automaker’s badge slapped onto the watch somewhere, and sometimes the connection is very inside baseball, like when TAG made a new chronograph movement that accelerated at the same rate as a classic 911. This new watch is somewhere in the middle, with some clever visual winks to the car that inspired it, but nothing new under the hood. The new watch takes its specific inspiration from Porsche’s success in endurance racing. The Porsche 963, developed under Le Mans Daytona Hybrid regulations, is the current pinnacle of Porsche’s expertise in endurance, a tradition that goes back decades. This is an aggressive take on the Carrera, which is a watch that we’ve seen wear many different capes in recent years. It’s a platform that is perhaps most at home as a traditional, elegant, gentleman’s racing chronograph, but can flex into something far more contemporary with relative ease. The 44mm case is stainless steel and coated in black PVD, and has been accented with a carbon fiber bezel with a tachymetric scale. Naturally we get a complex, skeletonized dial (nothing says “modern and contemporary” like skeletonization, I guess) as well as plenty of lume. The lume is actually what most closely links t...
Deployant
New: TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph x Porsche 963
TAG Heuer releases a new Carrera Chronograph in collaboration with Porsche featuring the 963. The novelty features a new skeletonised dial.
Monochrome
First Look – Energising Summer Colours for the Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Skeleton
Rado is synonymous with high-tech ceramic, which is used to great effect on its sleek, geometric designs and vintage models alike. Rado’s 1962 Captain Cook dive watch, resurrected in 2017, was given a high-tech plasma ceramic makeover in 2021. Not only did it feature a ceramic case and bracelet, but its dial was also skeletonised […]
Worn & Wound
Roundup: The Panels of Windup Watch Fair San Francisco
One of the highlights of the Windup Watch Fair in San Francisco last month was the plethora of amazing programming that took place throughout all three days of the event. The Gateway Pavilion at Fort Mason had an ideal room dedicated to creating the kind of panel content that we’re fond of making here at Worn & Wound. Fortunately, we had a slew of incredible industry professionals on site to glean some great insights! Here’s a roundup of panels from the big show. Time on Screen: Dunkirk with William Wood In celebration of the release of their most ambitious watch to date, William Wood CEO Jonny Garrett joined Zach Kazan and Kyle Snarr on stage at the San Francisco Windup Watch Fair to talk about Nolan’s film and share the story of the Dunkirk Watch. The new limited edition watch was made in partnership with and in tribute to the Massey Shaw, a London Fire Brigade Fire Boat that played an important role in evacuating British forces from Dunkirk Beach in the early stages of World War II. Introducing the Christopher Ward Twelve X Zach Kazan sits down with Mike France, CEO of Christopher Ward, to chat about one of the absolute highlight watches of the show: The Twelve X. For the 10th anniversary of the SH21, new for 2024, Christopher Ward has debuted the Twelve X. Not their first skeletonized watch, they claim to have removed even more material than ever before, exposing parts of the movement that have previously been hidden. The Twelve X will be an open series watch, de...
Monochrome
Introducing – The Speake Marin Openworked Dual Time Terracotta
Speake Marin’s One & Two Dual Time Openworked model was released in 2019, a sophisticated GMT with retrograde date combined with the brand’s eccentric layouts and distinctive Piccadilly case. For summer 2024, Speake Marin turns up the volume with the vibrant terracotta-orange tones of the Openworked Dual Time Terracotta. Following the first Openworked Dual Time […]
Deployant
New: Ulysse Nardin updates their OPS capsule collection
The Ulysse Nardin Diver NET OPS and Diver X Skeleton OPS are the latest additions to the brand's Diver collection, bringing a fresh and utilitarian OPS colorway to these performance-oriented timepieces. The Diver NET OPS is notable for its sustainable construction, featuring a case made from 95% recycled stainless steel and a unique composite material comprising upcycled fishing nets and carbon fibers, offering a robust yet environmentally conscious design. Its 44mm case is complemented by a unidirectional timing bezel crafted from Carbonium, a material known for its strength and lightweight properties derived from the aerospace industry. The Diver X Skeleton OPS, on the other hand, showcases a premium approach with its DLC-coated titanium case and intricate skeletonized design, providing a glimpse into the watch's mechanical intricacies. Both models maintain the brand's commitment to precision and durability, with water resistance suitable for professional diving and a design that's both modern and tactical.
Monochrome
Just Because – Audemars Piguet Unveils an Unprecedented Polychrome Camouflage Gold Alloy
Earlier this year, alongside multiple new watches such as the RO Perpetual with John Mayer and the Sand Gold alloy applied to an RO Openworked Tourbillon, Audemars Piguet also presented an unexpected and entirely novel multi-coloured ceramic called chroma ceramic featuring a polarising but cool camouflage pattern. In the same vein, Audemars Piguet now applies […]
Monochrome
First Look – Two New Gold Versions of the AP Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked 37mm
Openworked or skeletonised watches are treats for the more mechanical-minded admirers of watchmaking, and the more complex the movement, the better. In 2016, Audemars Piguet increased the viewing pleasure two-fold when it unveiled its Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked ref. 15407. As its name indicates, the movement was equipped with two balance wheels, one […]