Skeleton & Openworked Watches · Page 26

INTRODUCING: A striking engraved masterclass from the Parmigiani Fleurier La Rosa Celeste

Parmigiani Fleurier is experiencing a mammoth resurgence under the watchful eye of Guido Terreni – we had a taste of this with their incredible releases from Watches & Wonders like the Tonda PF Skeleton. Today’s topic, however, honours the brand’s founder and master watchmaker, Michel Parmigiani. A special person deserves a special watch. This prompted … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: A striking engraved masterclass from the Parmigiani Fleurier La Rosa Celeste appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Franck Muller Vanguard Skeleton Colour Dreams is a joyful riot of mad-cap fun

Ever wondered what happens when you take the colour wheel and throw it at a watch with extreme craftsmanship and precision? Well, we recently found out. Franck Muller and colour share a healthy, two decade-long relationship, marked by the release of the first Colour Dreams model during the turn of the millennium. From the Crazy … ContinuedThe post The Franck Muller Vanguard Skeleton Colour Dreams is a joyful riot of mad-cap fun appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Kudoke Makes a Hollywood Debut in ‘Last Looks’

Seeing an Omega Seamaster in the latest James Bond is hardly a surprise. Independent watchmakers, however, rarely get the same Hollywood opportunities that deep-pocketed brands like Omega do. But tiny German watchmaker Kudoke managed to make it to the big screen without a well-funded marketing campaign. This story starts with American novelist Howard Michael Gould, who released Last Looks in 2018. A mystery novel centred on a disgraced detective, Last Looks was on its way to the silver screen shortly after publication with Charlie Hunnam and Mel Gibson in starring roles. Dominic Monaghan’s character wearing the Kudoke Real Skeleton A crucial Kudoke skeleton While the filming Last Looks, the producers reached out to the husband-and-wife team behind Kudoke, Ev and Stefan, for a watch to be worn in a movie without providing much details. According to Ev, the email from the producers initially seemed to be a random piece of spam. After all, most watches with prominent placements in films are the result of hefty advertising budgets. But then Kudoke received another email with the same request from another sender. This piqued their interest but left Ev and Stefan wondering why any producer would choose a watch most of the audience would never recognise? Soon enough, the Kudokes were sent excerpts of the script. To their surprise, the watch was not merely an accessory, but it was a central part of the plot, a crucial clue for solving the mystery in fact. The Kudokes natural...

The Piaget Polo Skeleton and the Polo Date Are Evergreen

The Angelus x Revolution Chronodate ‘Angels’ Share’ is the Sports Chronograph with a Soft Touch

The Angelus Chronodate that was relaunched this year can trace its roots all the way back to the original Chronodatos from the 1940s, a triple-calendar chronograph that were scarce commodities at the time. Despite retaining the big eye counters and central date indicator, the current Chronodate is resolutely contemporary with a multi-part exoskeleton case made […]

Highlights: Complications at Phillips’ Hong Kong Auction

Having covered highlights from the independent watchmakers at Phillips’ The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XV, we now dive into the complicated timepieces in the sale that takes place on November 28 and 29 – an appropriate theme given that the three most valuable lots according to the estimates are complicated watches from Patek Philippe. In this roundup, we look at nine lots that stand out. Some like the ref. 5207P with the uncommon mahogany guilloche dial are six-figure, headline lots, while others are value propositions that might slip under the radar but worth noting, like the Cartier Privé Tonneau XL Skeleton Dual Time. Registration for bidding and the entire catalogue for sale can be accessed here. The ref. 5207P with a brown guilloche dial and matching obsidian inlays in the case and slide Lot 817: A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Time Zone “Buenos Aires” Here, we have the Lange 1 Time Zone that was first introduced in 2005. With the trademark Lange 1 dial layout and oversized date, the Time Zone maintains the recognisable Lange 1 style with its “Golden Proportions” despite being able to do much more than a standard Lange 1. This particular variant came about when Buenos Aires retailer Simonetta Orsini requested a limited edition for Argentina. The cities disc thus has Buenos Aires (“B. AIRES”) to indicate UTC-03:00, instead of Rio de Janeiro as is the norm for the model. But more significant for the Lange enthusiast is the silver dial with blue hands and ma...

Introducing the Franck Muller Vanguard Skeleton Color Dreams

Wei and Jeremiah discuss the intricate crafting and finishing of the Franck Muller Vanguard Skeleton Color Dreams. This eye-catching, kaleidoscopic timepiece leverages advanced manufacturing technology to fashion each component individually.

Highlights: Independent Watchmaking at Phillips Hong Kong Auction

With the curtain having just come down on the Geneva sale season, auction houses are migrating to Hong Kong for the second half of the autumn auctions. Going on the block at Phillips’ The Hong Kong Watch Auction: XV are 270 lots that encompass heavy-hitters and “hype” watches, but as usual we’ll take a look instead at a few interesting watches, starting with a selection of independent watchmaking. We round up nine notable creations from the independents, mainly time-only watches with high-quality construction and unique design, such as a Voutilainen Vingt-8 with a skeletonised dial and the Ludovic Ballouard Upside Down. The auction takes place on November 28 (lots 801-938) and November 29 (lots 939-1070). The full catalogue and sale registration can be accessed on Phillips.com. Lot 829: Roger Dubuis Hommage H37 A modern-day chronometer heavily inspired by traditional watchmaker – the aesthetics are a practically a revival of styling from the good old days – the Hommage H37 is an easy watch to like. Living up to its name, the Hommage pays tribute to classical gentlemen’s watches. It’s a three-hander in a classically-sized 37 mm case that contains a Lemania-based self-winding movement certified as a chronometer by the Besançon Observatory. The Hommage case was modelled on the Patek Philippe ref. 1463 “Tasti Tondi” chrongraph, though the resemblance is less obvious on the time-only model. But the simple lines are undeniably appealing despite their sim...

Sarpaneva Introduces the Valtteri Bottas “Kilpisjärvi”

Inspired by the northern lights, the Sarpaneva x Valtteri Bottas “Kilpisjärvi” continues the Finnish’s brands tradition of artfully applied Super-Luminova. This 17-piece limited edition Stepan Sarpaneva’s third model dedicated to Valteri Bottas, a fellow Finn who competes for the Alfa Romeo Formula 1 team. Unlike the first pair of Bottas editions that made by Mr Sarpaneva’s more affordable S.U.F. brand, the Kilpisjärvi is a full-fledged Sarpaneva watch so it has an elaborately open-worked dial, unusually shaped case, and in a first for the brand, the Chronode P1003 automatic movement inside. Initial thoughts Born into a family of designers and artists, Stepan Sarpenava unsurprisingly has a strikingly distinct aesthetic. This comes through in all of his work, despite the diversity of his offerings. With its open-worked dial and multi-coloured lume, the Kilpisjärvi might seem similar to his recent releases, but it is notably different. In contrast to the earlier editions that were heavily figurative, the Kilpisjärvi is abstract, especially during the day. In fact, the dial pattern is almost graceful, though the aggressive Sarpaneva styling is still obvious in the hands and case. Only at night when the Super-Luminova glows is the northern lights motif easily apparent. For anyone who enjoys Mr Sarpaneva’s unusual aesthetic, the Kilpisjärvi is easily appealing – with two caveats. One is the size, which at 46 mm is large and places it amongst the biggest Sarp...

Zenith Introduces the Defy Extreme “Buddy Franklin”

An Australian rules football player who’s a Zenith ambassador, Lance “Buddy” Franklin recently scored his 1000th goal and is now ranked fifth amongst the all-time highest scorers of the Australian Football League (AFL). To celebrate the occasion, Mr Franklin turned to Zenith to create something special, resulting in the two-piece limited-edition Defy Extreme “Buddy Franklin”. Mr Franklin will keep one watch while the other example is going under the hammer at online auctioneer Loupe This with all proceeds going to the Australian Literacy and Numeracy Foundation, a national charity that brings education to marginalised communities. The auction is now live on Loupe This and ends on on November 7, 2022 at 2:00 am GMT-5 (New York) or 3:00 pm GMT+8 (Singapore). Registration for bidding and full lot details can be accessed here. Lance “Buddy” Franklin Initial thoughts A larger and more rugged version of the Defy 21, the Defy Extreme is a big, sporty watch with an open-worked dial – a seemingly familiar formula. But the Buddy Franklin edition is different with its two-tone case and red dial. It moves away from the typical design of such watches and instead has a more restrained aesthetic that helps tame the 45 mm case size. The only downside of the watch is the fact that only one will be publicly available, and at an auction rather than for a fixed priced. But with the estimate being the retail price of the regular production model, the Buddy Franklin editio...

VIDEO: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton

It’s always a safe assumption that watches from Vacheron Constantin are going to be exquisite in all aspects, yet still nothing prepares us for those occasions when they release something infinitely special. The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton gets every possible element right despite being quite a complicated package, and seeing it as … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Louis Horror and seconde/seconde/ reveal the spooky skeletons in their closets

Louis Erard is no stranger to collaboration, having released some of their most successful pieces in partnership with the likes of Massena LAB and legends like Alain Silberstein and Vianney Halter. Another on the long list of associates is Romaric André of seconde/seconde/, working together to produce a brilliant take on the brand’s regulator design, … ContinuedThe post Louis Horror and seconde/seconde/ reveal the spooky skeletons in their closets appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hublot Introduces Big Bang Unico Gourmet in Damasteel

A watchmaker that endlessly experiments with new materials, Hublot has once again employed a novel alloy for its quintessential sports chronograph. Inspired by the brand’s celebrity-chef brand ambassadors who include Anne-Sophie Pic and Yannick Alléno, the Big Bang Unico Gourmet has a case of Damasteel, a striking, patterned steel that’s often used for high-end knives. Initial thoughts The Unico Gourmet is typical Hublot in how it employs a novel material for visual effect. For that reason it will surely appeal to existing fans of the brand who enjoy the Hublot aesthetic. But the case material is Damasteel – not generic Damascus steel but a proprietary alloy made with a patented process by a Swedish specialist. While the alloy has been used in watches before, it’s more often used for pricey custom knives. The unusual metal means the watch will appeal to nerds who appreciate materials technology. The watch happens to look good and also different from the average Hublot. The patterned steel echoes the aesthetics of the skeletonised movement, creating a coherent combination of textures. In other words, the material is perfect match for the Big Bang. In contrast, it’s easy to image that an ordinary round watch with conventional dial would have been overwhelmed by the intricate texture of Damasteel. Since the watch is already loud with its striking pattern, it has been wisely been scaled down to just 42 mm, which is small for a Big Bang. As a result, it will sit w...

My Top 6 Independent Watches From The Upcoming October 29 Ineichen Auction ‘Complications: Skeletons & Tourbillons’ (With Videos Of The Watches)

“Complications: Skeletons & Tourbillons" is the title of the upcoming Ineichen two-part watch auction on October 29 and December 3, 2022, and it’s a title that attracted Ian Skellern's attention. There are 50 watches in the auction, a nice mix of both big and independent brands, so it’s well worth scrolling through the online catelogue, especially if money is burning a hole in your wallet because you can’t find a retailer with stock.

VIDEO: The Speake-Marin One & Two Openworked Tourbillons

Homogenous design. In a marketplace where it seems consumers have tunnel vision towards particular design segments, watch manufacturers have often bent to the trend of the moment rather than forge their own path. While many watch geeks love innovation and fresh aesthetics, brands do not always see the incentive from the broader marketplace. Speake-Marin, however, … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Speake-Marin One & Two Openworked Tourbillons appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Skeletons & Tourbillons Complications: October 29 Live Auction

Kudoke Real Skeleton Starring In Feature Film ‘Last Looks’ Heads To Auction

While watching television, Ian Skellern spied a Kudoke Real Skeleton in a feature film called 'Last Looks' starring Charlie Hunnam and Mel Gibson. That watch is now being auctioned in New York in December. Here's its backstory.

Kudoke Skeleton Plays a Starring Role in Last Looks

In-Depth I: Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003

The first complicated mechanical watch from the brand in its six decades years of history, the Grand Seiko Kodo Constant-Force Tourbillon SLGT003 is an impressive example of high horology. The Kodo is self-explanatory: it is equipped with a highly skeletonised and sensitively finished movement boasting a one-second remontoir and tourbillon, both mounted on the same axis. The Kodo is an interesting watch in all respects, tangible and intangible, making it worth a detailed examination – exactly the focus of this two-part series. In this first instalment, we explain the development and conception of the Kodo, as well as the decoration of its movement. In the second part that will be published subsequently, we detail how the movement works and analyse how it compares to the competition. A surprise Evolved from the T0 concept movement unveiled just two years ago, the Kodo is undoubtedly a milestone – and a major step upwards – for the Japanese watchmaker that’s historically been focused on simple but high-quality everyday watches. Like conventional Grand Seiko (GS) watches, the Kodo is all about high-quality timekeeping, but it is far from simple. An example of a typical Grand Seiko, which is strikingly different from the Kodo, yet not so different in terms of philosophy Well known for its quest for high precision – amongst its earliest timepieces were observatory-tested chronometers – GS has done much research and development in the cutting-edge timekeeping techn...

Our Predictions In The Tourbillon Category Of The 2022 Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG): To Win This The Tourbillon Needs To Be Very Special

Five of the six watches in this Tourbillon category are either openworked or dial-less, so their visuals are not dissimilar. Five of the six are also one-minute tourbillons. One-half of the finalists have flying tourbillons, while another boasts a cylindrical tourbillon, and yet another has a constant-force tourbillon. How will our panel ever choose a winner?

HANDS ON: The Hamilton Ventura XXL Skeleton and Ventura S

One of the best things about Hamilton is the way in which they’ve continued to deliver to the customers they’ve always aimed to please - watch lovers without astronomical budgets. Although mechanical watches are inherently a luxury to some degree,  Hamilton continue to hit the spot with some of the best value Swiss watches out … ContinuedThe post HANDS ON: The Hamilton Ventura XXL Skeleton and Ventura S appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Audemars Piguet Introduces the Code 11.59 Tourbillon “Onyx”

Despite a rocky reception when Audemars Piguet debuted the line in 2019, the Code 11.59 collection is gaining traction, especially after several facelifts that bestowed smoked dials, two-tone cases, as well as open-worked movements on the line. Continuing the evolution – and improvement – is the Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon that combines white gold and black ceramic in a novel two-tone case. More striking is the unexpected simplicity of the dial, which is a polished expanse of onyx stone, resulting in the most striking version of the model to date. Initial thoughts Since the launch of the collection, most Code 11.59 model have been redesigned in a manner that is somewhat formulaic, though the results have been attractive. The makeovers usually involved brighter dial colours or new materials, like the recent Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon that got an aventurine glass dial. In comparison, the latest redesign is a surprise that proves less is more. Stark and minimalist yet far from plain, the onyx dial easily sets the watch apart from its peers in the collection. It does that by streamlining the dial, even removing the Arabic numerals that are a signature element of the Code 11.59. Aside from the onyx dial, I also like the smart application of coloured accents. Though it is mainly in silver and black, it has just the right amount of rose gold details in just the right places to give it warmth and a bit of a vintage feel. And the black is also smartly utilised...

INTRODUCING: The Cvstos Metropolitan PS Skeleton Cafu & Breel Embolo

The World Cup is coming and Cvstos are clearly getting excited. This intriguing microbrand loves their football, as is clear from their two brand ambassadors. The first of these is Cafu, the Brazilian defender often regarded as the best right back of all time, having won more caps for his country than any other player. For … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Cvstos Metropolitan PS Skeleton Cafu & Breel Embolo appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing the Franck Muller Vanguard Rose Skeleton

Earlier this August, Wei sat down with Franck Muller’s CEO, Nicholas Rudaz, to take a first look at the new Vanguard Rose Skeleton collection. This watch was originally conceived as a special edition for the brand’s Singapore retail partner, Cortina Watch, but now comes in a stunning configuration of black diamonds and champlevé enamel.