Skeleton & Openworked Watches · Page 5

Hands-On: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked

The Audemars Piguet (AP) Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked 39 mm is an appealing new variant of a watch that’s already in short supply, famous as much for its scarcity as its octagonal bezel. Seen previously in white gold, the Jumbo Openworked returns at the top of its class with a case made from lightweight titanium and palladium bulk metallic glass (BMG), a material that gives the bezel its almost ethereal mirror finish. The Jumbo Openworked is not a limited edition, but its undeniable appeal will make it hard to come by, even by Royal Oak standards. Ideal configuration The Royal Oak is one of the most sought-after watches in the industry, and one of the few collections that consistently trades at a premium to retail, according to WatchCharts. With its iconic Genta design, slim form factor, and high-end calibre, it’s easy to see why. That said, some configurations are more appealing than others, and this titanium and palladium version of the Jumbo Openworked ranks highly in the Royal Oak pantheon. It’s worth exploring why it works. Starting with the sizing. In 1972, the Royal Oak was broad and flat by industry standards, but the “Jumbo” moniker now feels misleading for a 39 mm watch. Ironically, the “Extra-Thin” designation also feels misleading for the opposite reason - 8.1 mm is plenty thin, but there are now so many thinner watches that the terminology feels out of date. Setting aside AP’s historical naming conventions, the Jumbo Openworked...

A Closer Look: Daniel Roth Extra Plat Skeleton

Review: the new Orient Star M34 F8 Skeleton Hand Wound

Orient Star sent us a loaner for the new M34 F8 Skeleton Hand Winding model. Here is our hands-on review after a month on the wrist.

The Best Skeleton Watches For 2026

The skeleton watch or skeletonized watch is a style of timepiece that is almost exclusively the domain of watches with mechanical movements. The process of skeletonizing a watch is simple - in theory. By opening up the dial and caseback and stripping out some large areas of movement parts, the maker of a skeleton watch reveals the "bones" beneath the surface. In practical terms, skeletonizing a watch can be done minimally or it can be done to an extreme level, and in both case the result can often be polarizing. Whether you love or hate the style, skeleton watches are nearly always a reliable conversation starter among enthusiasts of mechanical wristwatches. To keep those conversations going, we've compiled this list of some of the best skeleton watches on the market today. Before diving into the list, let's clear up some of the jargon you can expect to come across. First off, there are two other terms that tend to be lumped in with the subject of skeleton watches, namely “open heart” and "openworked." "Open heart" tends to describe a type of dial aperture that reveals usually just the balance wheel beating away but very little else. ”Openworked” is a term that is commonly used as an alternative to "skeletonized" since being popularized by Audemars Piguet (more on that below). Essentially, openworked and skeletonized are interchangeable in describing the same aesthetic. So, on this list there will be skeleton(ized) and openworked watches but not open-heart w...

Hands-On With The Rado Anatom Automatic Skeleton

It’s time for a short confession: generally, I am not the biggest fan of skeletonized watches. While I greatly appreciate the possibility of witnessing a caliber in action, I much prefer to see it in action through a sapphire display in the case back. It’s purely an aesthetic thing because, as a design fanatic, I […] Visit Hands-On With The Rado Anatom Automatic Skeleton to read the full article.

Introducing - Chronoswiss Goes Bold with the new Space Timer Gravity

Chronoswiss, once best known for classically-styled regulator watches or skeletonised chronographs, has embraced a far more expressive, colourful and demonstrative design. The Space Timer collection is at the centre of this change, translating the traditional regulator display into rather bold compositions inspired by the cosmos. With the new Space Timer Gravity edition, Chronoswiss focuses not […]

First Look - New and Vibrant Dial Colours for the Hamilton Jazzmaster Open Heart Series

The Jazzmaster collection by Hamilton is where classical watchmaking meets contemporary design, offering mechanical substance without unnecessary ornament. With the latest Jazzmaster Open Heart models, not to be confused with the skeleton versions, Hamilton expands the series with a wide range of dial colours across three sizes, to please as many clients as possible.  The […]

SJX Podcast: Louis Vuitton & De Bethune Travel in Style

SJX has just returned from the Tokyo launch of Louis Vuitton’s third independent watchmaking collaboration, this time with De Bethune. Episode 29 of the SJX Podcast covers what it means for both brands, and unpacks the details of both the GMT Louis Varius wristwatch and the monumental sympathique clock that it can be paired with. Brandon and SJX also provide hands-on analysis of the Escale Worldtime and Daniel Roth Extra Plat Skeleton that debuted during LVMH Watch Week in January. Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

Orient Star’s M34 F8 Skeleton is Space-Age Tech

Orient Star marks a milestone with the M34 F8 Skeleton Hand Winding 75th Anniversary, combining the brand’s technically adept, manually wound skeleton calibre with a novel, laser-engraved meteorite pattern in a maximalist open-worked package. The M34 F8 Skeleton also stands out for the tech inside the mechanical movement: proprietary silicon escape wheel with a novel, optimistic geometry that helps the M34 punch above its weight from a technical standpoint. Initial thoughts Last year, Orient Star launched the brand’s first manually wound moon phase – made of mother-of-pearl no less – for fans of understated, formal watches. Now celebrating its 75th anniversary, Orient Star has cast aside restraint to mark the occasion with something for a more maximalist breed of collector. The new skeleton has a blacked-out case and bracelet and an open-worked version of its top-of-the-line F8 movement. Notably, the movement plates are bridges, which are exposed front and back, are decorated with a laser-etched meteorite motif that is impressively detailed. This skeletonised anniversary limited edition also features the latest technology from its powerhouse parent company Seiko Epson, including a silicon escape wheel with an especially advantageous design. While silicon is increasingly common in the watch industry, it is used primarily for hairsprings. This puts Orient on the list of short brands with a proprietary silicon escape wheel that includes blue-chip names like Patek Phil...

Hands On: Daniel Roth Extra Plat Skeleton Rose Gold

Daniel Roth announced a subtle shift in its direction with the recent Extra Plat Rose Gold Skeleton. While the brand’s prior models like the tourbillon were essentially remakes of models made by the brand in the 1990s, the Extra Plat skeleton is an entirely new model that shares practically nothing with historical designs save for the case shape. Because the Extra Plat skeleton is, well, skeleton, it ably shows off the quality of execution on both sides. Beyond finishing, the movement also stands out for details that illustrate the taste of its constructor(s). It’s telling that the movement could have been done more simply without anyone noticing, but it wasn’t. Initial thoughts Daniel Roth’s resurrection got off to a strong start, underpinned by watches with top quality execution. The initial models, however, were remakes of 1990s originals. A brand with Daniel Roth’s ambitions (and well-resourced backer) won’t go very far with only replicas of historical models. The Extra Plat Skeleton illustrates the people behind the brand understand that. The Extra Plat Skeleton, in contrast, is the first all-new model rolled out by Daniel Roth in its current form. It encapsulates all of the strengths of the brand, namely the capable, high-end watchmaking of La Fabrique du Temps (LFT) and the distinctive double-ellipse case. While the Extra Plat Skeleton is powered by a movement derived from that in the Extra Plat, it is clearly a different calibre. And because the movemen...

SJX Podcast: Audemars Piguet Thinks Beyond the Royal Oak

Recorded shortly after Brandon’s return from Audemars Piguet’s launch event in Switzerland, Episode 28 of the SJX Podcast provides analysis of all the brand’s new releases, including the Neo Frame Jumping Hour, the 150 Heritage pocket watch, the upgraded Royal Oak Chronograph 38 mm and its new in-house movement, and the latest open-worked perpetual calendar, which works equally well in Code 11.59 and Royal Oak guise. The conversation also touches on the internal reorganisation at AP that saw the creation of a multi-disciplinary fabrication laboratory dubbed the ‘Fab Lab.’ Listen now on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

An Openworked Wonder by Molnar Fabry

The Classic Tech Art is the latest, bespoke time-only piece from independent watchmaking duo Molnar Fabry, and a fine example of the pair’s modus operandi. Starting off from a Vaucher cal. 5401 ébauche, the watchmakers applied extensive finishing to both seen and unseen surfaces within the movement. While this exact configuration is unique, similar designs can be commissioned from the Slovakia-based creators. Initial thoughts Molnar Fabry’s calling card is open-worked movements and the Class Tech Art doesn’t disappoint in that respect. While the case back side of the movement is richly engraved but structurally unaltered, the tastefully open-worked dial reveals the usually hidden assemblies that make the Vaucher calibre tick. The duo behind Molnar Fabry operates outside the influence of many Swiss watchmaking traditions. As a result, the brand’s house style of finishing is somewhat unorthodox. Mixes of metals are on show, along with a rich blend of textures and shapes.  The style might not be to everyone’s tastes, but Molnar Fabry’s work feels refreshingly original in today’s market. The two watchmakers shift the focus from proprietary movements and high-tech specs to true hand finishing.  That said, the Classic Tech Art exemplifies a more streamlined vision of the brand’s design language, opting away from the excessively ornate cases the brand has produced in the past. This may point towards them going more mainstream - at least to the extent that a b...

Hands On: Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked

Audemars Piguet (AP) has updated the coveted Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked, which makes its debut on the next-generation perpetual calendar platform that debuted last year. The new calibre allows for individual adjustment of each calendar indication using just the crown – no stylus (or toothpick) necessary. The first outing for the skeletonised version of this class-leading perpetual calendar is in titanium, with mirror polished accents in scratch-resistant Palladium BMG and pops of rose gold on the dial and case back, though more colourways are sure to come in due time. Initial thoughts The latest generation of the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar is arguably AP’s strongest product. It is heir to the archetypal integrated bracelet perpetual calendar sports watch, which, until recently, was held back to some extent by what had become a dated movement. In fairness, the same can be said of its obvious competitors from Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. That changed in 2025 when the Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar was upgraded with the AP’s latest perpetual calendar movement, a significant release befitting the brand’s 150th anniversary year. The calibre 7138 introduced individual correction of the date, day, month, and moon phase using only the crown, allowing for quick adjustment without tools and with greater flexibility, and support for more indications, than existing solutions. And while we already understood the movement’s clever functionality, it rema...

Hands-on - The New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Openworked

Perpetual calendars are, without a doubt, an integral part of Audemars Piguet’s history, and the Royal Oak has carried its strand very convincingly since 1984. With the introduction of the Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Openworked powered by the new Calibre 7139, AP signals a clear generational shift. Released alongside a Code 11.59 counterpart, which […]

Audemars Piguet’s Latest Gen Perpetual Open-Worked or All-Ceramic

Audemars Piguet (AP) debuts a trio of new perpetuals calendars, led by the first open-worked version of brand’s cutting edge perpetual calendar launched last year with the skeleton cal. 7139 inside the Code 11.59 and Royal Oak. And rounding out the trio is the first all-ceramic Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar powered by the cal. 7138. Initial Thoughts The open-worked version of AP’s latest-generation perpetual calendar movement arguably does most justice to a clever movement that is one of the most notable such movements on the market. While there was little visual difference between solid-dial versions of AP’s new perpetual calendars and the preceding versions, the open-worked examples are less similar, at least up close, as the perpetual calendar works are so clearly different. The new open-work dial givers owners a look at what is going on under the hood as they adjust the calendar, which I see as a significant value add given the unusual and innovative mechanics. While AP could have been more daring, the last year’s crop of Royal Oak Perpetuals were good looking watches. The new pair, in both Code 11.59 and Royal Oak formats, look nearly identical from an arms length to their predecessors. The open-worked models are mostly monochrome, the Code 11:59 is rhodium-plated white gold with a black ceramic mid-case while the Royal Oak is titanium with polished Palladium 500 bulk-metallic glass (BMG) accents and rose gold dial furniture. Neither break new ground for the b...

Introducing - The New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked 16204XT

We closely and thoroughly examined the Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra-Thin Openworked in steel (16204ST) when it was introduced for the RO´s 50th anniversary, as the model has become a reference for how Audemars Piguet approaches the skeletonisation of an icon. Since then, it has been followed by precious metal executions in white gold (16204BC) and yellow gold (16204BA). […]

Introducing: The New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Openworked "Jumbo" and 37mm Double Balance Wheel Models in Bulk Metallic Glass And Yellow Gold

AP continues to show how less can most certainly be more.

Introducing: A Trio Of New Perpetual Calendars, And A New Openworked Version Of Audemars Piguet’s Newest Perpetual Calendar Movement

The new openworked Caliber 7139 debuts in a Code 11.59 and Royal Oak, while the non-openworked Royal Oak gets an attractive new edition in blue ceramic.

Introducing - A Duo of Audemars Piguet´s Openworked Perpetual Calendars, Powered by the Latest Calibre 7139

A perpetual calendar is a complication very much dear to Audemars Piguet. Since the mid-20th century, the manufacture in Le Brassus has offered many variations on how this “celestial” mechanism could be presented, displayed and used. From the world’s first leap-year perpetual calendar wristwatch in 1955, to the ultra-thin automatic QPs of the late 1970s, […]

The Audemars Piguet 2026 Releases Makes Complexity User-Friendly, And Celebrates the Skeleton

Introducing: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Openworked

Last year, Audemars Piguet introduced the revolutionary in-house caliber 7138. The movement introduced a completely new, user-friendly way to operate the perpetual calendar functions. It also lets users adjust the calendar forward and backward, which is a huge plus if they mistakenly set it too far ahead. After the release of last year’s Royal Oak […] Visit Introducing: The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Perpetual Calendar Openworked to read the full article.

Introducing: New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Openworked And Malachite-Dial Models

I vividly remember visiting the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH), the predecessor of Watches and Wonders, in Geneva in 2010. Alongside Richard Mille, Richemont Group brands, and a few others, Audemars Piguet showcased its latest creations. That year, the Royal Oak Openworked ref. 15305 stood out to me. It was based on the […] Visit Introducing: New Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Openworked And Malachite-Dial Models to read the full article.

Audemars Piguet’s first 2026 releases: stone, skeletons, and a push toward “liveable” complications

AP might be appearing at Watches & Wonders this year, but isn't holding back with its first big round of new watches for 2026.The post Audemars Piguet’s first 2026 releases: stone, skeletons, and a push toward “liveable” complications appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

New releases from Chopard, Tissot, Hermès and more

Over the past seven days, several skeletonised watches have been announced, yet they are anything but similar.The post New releases from Chopard, Tissot, Hermès and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.