Monochrome
Gérald Charles Genta, one of our time’s most respected and well-known watch designers, sold his eponymous brand Gerald Genta to Bulgari in 2000. However, instead of resting on his laurels and enjoying a stress-free retirement, he created a new brand, naming it – again – after himself; Gerald Charles. In 2003, Genta sold the company […]
SJX Watches
Parmigiani Fleurier has just launched the Tonda PF Automatic 36mm ‘Sunlit Ivory’ SHH Edition, a limited edition for Singapore retailer Sincere Fine Watches. More compact than the rest of the collection that ranges from 40 mm to 42 mm, its svelte dimensions are an answer to collectors’ calls for smaller watches, which is a positive development from both an ergonomic and aesthetic standpoint. Limited to 50 pieces, the watch will be available exclusively at Sincere Fine Watches and SHH boutiques across Southeast Asia. Initial thoughts Let’s get this out of the way: this is an integrated-bracelet luxury sport watch. But the Tonda PF, and this SHH edition specifically, is a thoughtfully conceived watch that deserves a second look despite the numerous offerings in this segment. Its appeal primarily comes down to the size and execution, which differentiates this from its peers. The sizing, in particular, is just about perfect. While 36 mm may sound small, the visual size is enlarged by the large dial opening, narrow bezel, and the integrated bracelet, giving it presence without bulk. Furthermore, the 8.6 mm case is thin enough to slip under a shirt cuff, but substantial enough to not feel dainty. There are also a number of well-considered details, such as the guilloché dial, platinum bezel, and no-date format, which plant the Tonda PF Sunlit Ivory firmly on the dressy end of the luxury sport watch spectrum. But the Tonda PF is still sporty – featuring a 4 Hz movement, ...
Worn & Wound
I have long been skeptical of the integrated bracelet sports watch. It’s a genre of watch that I’ve never really lusted after, and while I can certainly appreciate the craftsmanship of a Royal Oak bracelet or the collectability of a rare Nautilus, these watches have always been mostly about flaunting wealth, and they kind of all bleed together to look like one another at a certain point, which leads me to wonder what that says about the taste of those who prize them so highly. Still, everyone once in a while an integrated bracelet sports watch comes around that is almost accidentally appealing to me, usually because of how it undermines the tropes of the genre. I suppose I also just have a soft spot for the Maurice Lacroix Aikon collection. There’s something about the accessibility and variety of these watches that I’ve always enjoyed. The latest entry in the Aikon collection from Maurice Lacroix is the summer ready Quartz Colors collection seen here. The name, as is often the case, kind of gives away what we’re dealing with. These Aikons, with references in both 35mm and 40mm, are powered by quartz movements, and they do indeed feature colors. The 35mm variants give you the option of a “Sunset Pink” or “Deep Sky Blue” dial, while the 40mm watch comes in sky blue only. The smaller versions of the Aikon Quartz Colors are also accented with diamonds at the hour markers. The press materials for the Quartz Colors releases suggest that Maurice Lacriox was ...
Hodinkee
Plus a classic dress watch from Patek and a gorgeous time-only option from Grand Seiko.
Fratello
Although one might think that visiting watch manufactures gets old, trust me, I am still as excited about it as I was many years ago. That’s especially true when visiting a brand like Chopard, which boasts three production facilities where nearly everything happens in-house. Chopard has been on a roll with the Alpine Eagle models, […] Visit A Visit To The Three Chopard Manufacturing Sites In Switzerland to read the full article.
Fratello
Last year, the IWC Ingenieur returned. The original Gérald Genta design got reworked and, when launched in steel and titanium, proved an alternative to the (un)available Royal Oak and Nautilus, the most iconic of Genta-penciled watches. A recent visit to IWC’s museum in Schaffhausen, on the banks of the river Rhine, sparked a couple of […] Visit The IWC Yacht Club II Ref. 3212 Is A Genta Design I Would Like To See Reborn to read the full article.
SJX Watches
After unveiling the Tonda PF “No Date” earlier this year, Parmigiani continues to expand its line of sports watches, now with the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph in pastel shades of grey as well a “Milano Blue”, while retaining the clou triangulaire guilloché. Milano Blue (left), Arctic Grey (middle), and London Grey (right) Initial thoughts The Tonda PF Sport is a more elegant alternative to conventional sports chronographs. The guilloché dial is decorative but sporty with “panda” registers, while the case feels relatively slim. And the new dial colours add to the appeal, both by offering more variety and a less traditional palette. The changes are only cosmetic, with the dial, case, and PF070 movement remaining the same. Consequently, the price remains rightly unchanged at CHF29,700 – a fair value proposition especially considering the specs and construction of the PF070. New colourways The latest models are fundamentally new variants of the Tonda PF Sport Chronograph released last year. They retain the same clean styling, with silvered dials and contrasting registers, a look historically associated with motor racing-inspired chronographs. The dial includes the customary applied “PF” emblem at 12 and a date window between four and five. Although it contrasts against the dial, the date display is relatively discreet and coherent design-wise. The date numerals sits vertical in a square window, presumably to evoke a dashboard instrument panel. The dial is d...
In episode 82 of A Week in Watches, things turn to the unconventional. Well, unconventionally shaped, that is. Yes, this week features three new watches, each featuring sculptural cases that break the mold. First, we have Anoma making its debut. Then we have Holthinrichs, who have launched a new entry-level line. Lastly, Credor celebrates its 50th anniversary by bringing back a little-known watch by a well-known designer, Gerald Genta. This week’s episode is brought to by the Windup Watch Shop. New in the shop are everyday carry items by Gerber, including knives, multi-tools, and camping utensils. Check those out and their ever-growing catalog of new and interesting watches from brands like Fortis, Louis Erard, Nivada Grenchen, and more. Windup Watch Shop The post A Week in Watches Ep. 82: The Death of the Circular Watch Case (Well, Not Really) appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Time+Tide
These two overlooked smart casual luxury sports watches are aficionado's picks - we put them head to head.The post The underrated Girard-Perregaux Laureato versus the understated Urban Jürgensen One appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Recently revived by Louis Vuitton’s La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), Gérald Genta has just taken the covers off the Gentissima Oursin. Comprising three watches inspired by a 1994 model, the Oursin is a gently reworked take on the original, retaining the round, pebble-like case covered in studs and subtly facetted sapphire crystal. Though compact like the original, the modern-day Oursin is instead cased in titanium but fitted with solid-gold studs. Initial thoughts In contrast to last year’s Mickey Mouse minute repeater, the Oursin is simple in terms of the movement, but it stands out for the complexity of the case construction as well as the striking design that is quintessential Genta. Though the revived Oursin faithfully recreates the original, subtle improvements have been made to the design, most notably with the reworked lugs tucked under the case, giving it a seamless outline. Another upgrade is the Zenith Elite movement within that replaces the ETA of the original. The new Oursin, however, remains similar in size to the original at 36.5 mm. I personally would have wanted something a little bigger, because the compact dimensions make the watch feel more decorative and ornate. The Oursin starts at CHF22,000 in titanium with white gold studs, with the version featuring diamonds on the studs priced at CHF32,000. While not quite a value proposition, the prices are fair considering the construction as well as brand. Quintessential Genta French for “[sea] urchin”, o...
Worn & Wound
Walking into Grand Seiko’s Madison Avenue boutique last week, I was ready for a fun evening with great company. After all, that’s what you expect anytime you go to an event hosted by Complecto. What I wasn’t expecting was the opportunity to check out the latest and greatest from Credor, the recently relaunched Locomotive, just a day after its public launch. Timed to celebrate the 50th anniversary of Credor, the revival of the Locomotive resurrects a long-dormant design from probably the most influential and well-known watch designer of the 20th century, Gerald Genta, and it more than lives up to both his name, and that of Credor. And speaking of names; when is a Seiko, not a Seiko? I admit, it’s a slightly odd question, but it bears asking. Seiko sells watches at just about every conceivable price point for every conceivable customer. But whether you’re picking up a Seiko for $79.94 on Amazon or a Kodo Constant Force Tourbillon for $350,000, every watch in the Seiko lineup will always have something in common - the word “Seiko” on the dial. It’s hard to think of another watch brand that not only sells watches at such dramatically different prices, but that doesn’t shy away from putting the same name on their entire collection. Sure, there are slight differences we learn to decode. Grand Seiko and Prospex elicit different reactions from collectors than Seiko 5 or Astron but, fundamentally, Seiko proudly declares just about every watch they make a Seiko. ...
Hodinkee
Are these sea-urchin-inspired watches an intentional move by the newly revived Gérald Genta brand to create something fashion related?
Time+Tide
We might've expected a new Mickey or Grande Sonnerie, but Gérald Genta surprises with its first post-revival release.The post The Gérald Genta relaunch begins with the unexpected Gentissima Oursin appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Mr Gérald Genta needs no introduction anymore. One of the most famous watch designers of our time, responsible for the creation of icons such as the Royal Oak or the Nautilus, he also created watches under his own name. From 1969 on, Genta produced exceptionally complex watches (incl. an automatic tourbillon grande sonnerie, often considered […]
Revolution
SJX Watches
Seiko just unveiled the Astron GPS Solar 2024 Limited Editions SSH157J1 and SSJ027J1. Both feature a transparent, patterned dial inspired by the starry night sky and a multi-faceted angular titanium case with contrasting satin and mirror-polished surfaces. Though styled like conventional watches, they are high-tech and run on Seiko’s proprietary GPS solar movement, which is accurate to +/- 15 seconds per month and has six months of power reserve. Initial thoughts Well liked for its value-minded offerings, Seiko does well with watches like the new Astron GPS. They are practical, high-quality watches that have some of the stylistic glamour of pricier timepieces thanks to the facetted case and integrated bracelet. Seiko Astron GPS Solar 2024 Limited Editions SSJ027J1. Featuring a reasonable prices of US$2,200 and US$2,500 respectively, the new Astron pair offers are amongst the more expensive electronic watches but executed as well as mechanical offerings in the same price segment. The titanium are finished well and the moulded sky-blue dials with applied indices are unusual elaborate for electric watches. Putting the high-tech movement aside, the quality of the dial and case are good for the price range. Bang for your buck The Astron GPS Solar models offer a chronograph function and run on a GPS solar movement with a power reserve of about 6 months. They are each equipped with different movements, with the SSH157J1 offering additional functionalities like the world time a...
Revolution
Monochrome
Most of Delma’s repertoire is sporty, verging on instrument-style watchmaking incarnated by the highly impressive 5,000m-rated Delma Blue Shark IV. The brand has long demonstrated its ability to create robust and capable watches at fair prices. But today, Delma has decided to embrace the other end of the spectrum with its answer to the highly […]
Revolution
Fratello
I’d happily admit to being smitten with Parmigiani Fleurier’s new look. The hits seem to be coming thick and fast this year, following the brand’s Watches and Wonders novelties. After the focus on the rebirth of the Toric, we get three new versions of the Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Chronograph this time. Parmigiani’s intricate […] Visit Introducing: Three New Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Sport Chronograph Variants to read the full article.
Time+Tide
For the 50th anniversary of the brand, the Gérald Genta Credor Locomotive returns as a 300-piece limited edition in titanium.The post Gérald Genta’s Credor Locomotive returns for the 50th anniversary of the brand (live pics) appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
Good things come in teeny tiny packages.
Monochrome
Openworked or skeletonised watches are treats for the more mechanical-minded admirers of watchmaking, and the more complex the movement, the better. In 2016, Audemars Piguet increased the viewing pleasure two-fold when it unveiled its Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel Openworked ref. 15407. As its name indicates, the movement was equipped with two balance wheels, one […]
SJX Watches
After having designed the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (1972), IWC Ingenieur (1974), and Patek Philippe Nautilus (1976), Gerald Genta also penned the Seiko Credor Locomotive in 1978. Now Seiko has revived the Credor Locomotive, preserving much of the original’s aesthetics but executing it in the brand’s proprietary “high-intensity” titanium and installing the new Credor CR01 automatic movement. The 1978 sketch of the Locomotive Initial thoughts Probably the last of the 1970s integrated bracelet sports watches Genta designed, the Locomotive is typical of his work of the period. In fact, the design is arguably an amalgamation of his better-known creations. Though it brings to mind his other work, the Locomotive is distinctive and definitely polarising. The Locomotive isn’t Genta’s best creation, but for some reason I like it. I’m familiar with the original and it has charm, despite being a little weird. I am sure the new limited edition will have far superior fit and finish, which will boost the intrinsic appeal. At the same time, the retail price of US$12,000 is competitive, especially when set against the Swiss competition like the IWC Ingenieur. Forward motion Named locomotive in the hope that it would propel Seiko forward, the Locomotive was designed by Genta at the request of Reijiro Hattori, a grandson of Seiko’s founder and uncle of current Seiko Group chairman Shinji Hattori. Genta’s original sketch for the Locomotive is dated 1978, and the watch was l...
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