Revolution
Integrated-Bracelet Sport Watches · Page 48
Revolution
Worn & Wound
Ace Jewelers and Frederique Constant Team Up for a Limited Edition Highlife Worldtimer
Ace Jewelers, based in Amsterdam, has carved out a reputation for themselves as creators of some of the best limited edition collaborations between watch brands and retail partners. Yes, this is a category that has been growing steadily over the years, but it’s worth pointing at that Ace has been at it for a long time, well before the watch market reached the state of collab hysteria that we currently find ourselves in. Many collectors are probably aware of their regular limited releases with Nomos (they’ve done six, and they always sell out very quickly) but they’ve expanded their portfolio this year, introducing collaborations with Elka and Nivada. Their most recent LE introduces another new brand into the fold, Frederique Constant, with a version of their Highlife Worldtimer that draws on aesthetic cues established in earlier Ace releases. The Highlife Worldtimer remains one of the more compelling Frederique Constant references. The Highlife platform feels refreshingly contemporary (even though it’s based on 1970s design cues) compared to what we often think of when we picture a Frederique Constant in the mind’s eye. If your impression of the brand is that of a maker of watches in a more classical, dressier, and simply old-fashioned style, than the Highlife, a sleek integrated bracelet sports watch, is almost transgressive. And it’s proven to be a worthy canvas for Frederique Constant’s not-so-secret weapon: affordable complications. The Worldtimer, of c...
SJX Watches
Best of 2023: Notable Surprises and Unexpected Developments
Perhaps the most surprising aspect of the year was how predictable much of it was. We saw more sports watches with integrated bracelets and more time-only watches with ostensibly artisanal decoration. Paradoxically, most of the notable surprises came from establishment marques that would ordinarily be predictable. Amongst them are the Rolex Perpetual 1908 and Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Travel Time ref. 5224R, both thoughtful creations that are typical for their respective brands. Here are our picks for the year’s best surprises in watchmaking. Brandon Moore Technical Contributor An unexpected, but user-friendly complicated watch that debuted this year is the Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time Ref. 5224R, a simple dual time watch with a twist: both time zones are indicated on a 24-hour dial, eliminating the need for an auxiliary day-night indicator. Not only is the functionality appealing, but the aesthetic and ergonomic execution is done well. While 42 mm may seem large for a Calatrava, the watch is visually smaller thanks to its abundant use of applied markers on the dial and stepped case and lugs. Moreover, and importantly, it is different for Patek Philippe, which is notable since the brand usually errs on the side of the tried and tested. Who would have thought Patek Philippe would remake the Chronometro Gondolo into a wristwatch? Richard Lee Technical Editor I was surprised when I first saw the Aquanaut Luce “Rainbow” Minute Repeater ref....
SJX Watches
Best of 2023: Complications
Twenty twenty-three was a year where familiar complications were reimagined. The year’s standouts in terms of complications are characterised by good execution. Granted, most of of them are evolutionary, except perhaps for the Audemars Piguet Universelle, but a classic complication done well is arguably superior to a novel idea done badly. We asked our team members well versed with the year’s complications for their favourites and here they are. SJX The year’s most complicated and most impressive (multi) complication came from a surprising brand, Audemars Piguet. Even though it was the Royal Oak Travis Scott and Royal Oak Concept “Spider-Man” that captured the headlines, the Code 11:59 Universelle was questionably AP’s most important watch of the year from a watchmaking perspective. The Universelle manages to pack almost two dozen complications, including a grande sonnerie, perpetual calendar, split-seconds chronograph, and notably, automatic winding, into a case that’s just 42 mm wide and 15.55 mm high – a positively slender case by the standards of grand complications. By comparison, the F.P. Journe Astronomic is 44 mm by 13.7 mm, while the Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime measures 47.7 mm by 16.07 mm. AP managed to do that with sophisticated and ingenious engineering, most notably by integrating the split-seconds mechanism into the automatic winding hub. The clever technical solutions are also evident in the calendar, which has an extra-thin construction...
Quill & Pad
30th anniversary of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore: Tourbillon plus Chronograph Models
To Alexey Kutkovoy's overview of complicated Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshores (ROO), here is a very special combination of complications: chronograph and a tourbillon.
Time+Tide
We explore the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore models that prove the collection is AP’s creative playground
This video is a must-watch for any Royal Oak Offshore fans, as it breaks down the role of the collection and the crazy places it's been. The post We explore the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore models that prove the collection is AP’s creative playground appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
Video Review - The Original and Accessible Mido Multifort TV Big Date
Over the past couple of years, the luxury sports watch segment has exploded in popularity. Fueled by a demand for seemingly impossible-to-get watches like the Royal Oak and the Nautilus, people started to look elsewhere. Many brands and even some independent watchmakers presented their own spin on the concept, resulting in a wide range of […]
Hodinkee
A Week On The Wrist: The Bulgari Octo Finissimo In Yellow Gold
A watch with real style, serious technical credentials, and a healthy dose of Italian charm. Who says you can't have it all?
Quill & Pad
30th anniversary of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore: Complications from Start to Finish (well, almost)
The 30th anniversary of the Royal Oak Offshore (ROO) is an excellent time to think seriously about how good this watch is as a collector’s item. An essential aspect of this subject is mechanical watches with complications.
Hodinkee
Interview: A Conversation With Supermodel Gisele Bündchen
Talking Genta, big watches during the '00s, and color coordinated calendars at Art Basel Miami.
Worn & Wound
Experts and Collectors Weigh in on the Return of Universal Genève
Early yesterday morning, news broke in the watch world that was both surprising, and felt inevitable. Universal Genève, the highly regarded and historic Swiss brand that has been effectively dormant for years, will be revived and relaunched by the same ownership team currently steering the ship at Breitling. While the news of Universal finally getting a high profile relaunch isn’t exactly shocking (reviving heritage brands shuttered during the Quartz Crisis has been a favorite pastime in the watch industry over the last decade), we weren’t expecting the Breitling connection. The news (and reaction to it) speaks both to the great affection the community feels for the Universal Genève brand, and to the strength and financial turnaround of Breitling under Georges Kern’s tenure. Universal Genève has a long and rich history, and has grown significantly in esteem in recent years. They were part of an explosion of interest in vintage watches that began more than ten years ago, but unlike other brands that benefited from increased attention on historic vintage pieces (Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet among them), Universal Genève doesn’t exist as a modern watchmaker in a meaningful way. For that reason, there’s always been a mystique to the brand that can’t really be replicated. We can, and do, compare vintage versions of Submariners, Daytonas, and Royal Oaks to their modern equivalents, and can thus relate to these watches through a modern context or l...
Revolution
Chopard presents the Alpine Eagle Sunburnt Limited Edition
Worn & Wound
Rado Brings Back the Anatom, a Lost Classic from the 1980s
Over the weekend, Rado dipped into their archives to bring back a lost classic from the 1980s. If you can recall the early 80s (or just have a penchant for watches of this era) you might remember the Anatom. This square cased watch with a dramatically curved case and sapphire crystal has been ripe for repurposing for the last few years – it certainly has some integrated bracelet sports watch notes to it. What Rado has done with this release is take the premise of the watch from the 80s and modernize it using Rado’s contemporary design language. The result is an Anatom that doesn’t look much like the original, but clearly shares some DNA and is unmistakably a Rado. The most significant difference between the original Anatom and the new version is the more prominent use of ceramic in the present day model. Rado has always been keen to experiment with materials, especially ceramic, but they’ve really leaned into this as part of their brand identity quite heavily in the last few years. Most of the key models in their lineup are either full ceramic, or ceramic in all the important places. That’s where the Anatom fits in. The new version has a PVD coated steel midcase, but the ceramic bezel leaves a large visual impression, and we also get a ceramic crown and a ceramic overlay on the integrated rubber strap’s clasp. The case measures 32.5mm x 46.3mm and is 11.3mm tall. As with the vintage versions of this watch, the case is curved, which in turn means the dial and ...
Monochrome
Introducing - The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon High Jewellery
With the festive season just around the corner, Vacheron Constantin lights up its Overseas Tourbillon with a blaze of baguette-set diamonds. First introduced to the brand’s successful luxury sports Overseas collection in 2019, the Tourbillon model boasts a slim profile thanks to the incorporation of Vacheron Constantin’s ultra-thin tourbillon calibre 2160. The latest Overseas Tourbillon […]
Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin applies subtle bling to the Overseas Tourbillon High Jewellery
Thought that diamonds on a watch cannot be tasteful? Think again.The post Vacheron Constantin applies subtle bling to the Overseas Tourbillon High Jewellery appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
The Vacheron Constantin Overseas Tourbillon is its Most Luxurious Sports Watch Yet
Hodinkee
Pre-Owned Picks: An IWC Ingenieur Ref. IW3506 From The ‘80s, A Solid Gold Blue Dial Rolex Submariner Ref. 16618, And An Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Ref. 15510ST
Plus a killer complicated JLC Master Control and a read-to-dive Omega Ploprof.
Monochrome
First Look - The New Alpina Alpiner Extreme Chronograph
The Alpiner Extreme collection is Alpina’s take on the hyper-popular category of sports watches with integrated bracelets. Relaunched in 2022 with a robust cushion-shaped case and a textured dial, the first model took many by surprise with its regulator dial, a throwback to a popular and massive 48mm Alpina model known as the Avalanche Regulator […]
WatchAdvice
REVIEW: Hands On With The Baume & Mercier Riviera GMT Travel Time
We’ve gone hands on with the new Riviera GMT launched at the start of the year, and we must say that it’s been a bit of a surprise package! What We Love Wave motif silver dialQuick change strap systemComfortable bracelet What We Don’t No secondary strap to utilise the quick change systemNo GMT bezel, limiting true GMT functionalityLack of a screw-down crown Overall Rating: 8/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 8/10Design: 7.5/10Build quality: 8.5/10 Baume & Mercier has had its ups and downs over the years, and more recently, I feel they’ve been relegated to the bottom of the Richemont stable of brands. However, this year, with the 50th Anniversary of the Riviera, Baume & Mercier have breathed some new life into their steel sports diver and designed it for a new wave of watch lovers. For those not very familiar with Baume & Mercier, first a very quick history lesson… The new Baume & Mercier Riviera GMT Travel Time Launched in 1973, the Riviera immediately made a splash with its dodecagonal case and its slimline metal strap. At this time, very few brands had really ventured into the luxury integrated steel bracelet models, with maybe the exception of Rolex and Audemars Piguet, making the Baume & Mercier Riviera one of the first brands to do this. Interestingly, the original design was done by Jean-Claude Gueit, the father of Emmanuel Gueit who designed the Royal Oak Offshore, so the Riviera has some design provenance and links back to that era as well. The Riviera...
SJX Watches
Bulgari’s Aluminium Chronograph Gets a Gran Turismo Makeover
Bulgari recently joined forces with the publisher of Gran Turismo, the bestselling video game known for its realistic portrayal of motor racing, in a pop-culture collaboration that diverges from its past partnerships with artists or architects. The result is the Bulgari Aluminium x Gran Turismo Special Edition that’s based on the brand’s signature rubber-and-aluminium chronograph. And alongside the watches, the collaboration has also spawned the Bulgari Aluminium Vision GT concept car, which is fully playable in the game. Initial thoughts Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani, Bulgari’s Creative Director, has made known his admiration for Japanese arts and culture. This inclination is evident in the brand’s Octo Finissimo collaborations, several of which were collaboration with notable creative personalities from Japan, including architect Tadao Ando. So it’s not a surprise that he has extended the exploration of Japanese culture by calling on the Sony division that created one of the world’s bestselling video game franchises. Bulgari’s creative director Fabrizio Buonamassa Stigliani with Japanese gaming designer and Gran Turismo creator Kazunori Yamauchi. Image – Bulgari The choice of the Aluminium collection as the platform for the special edition is logical, given the sporty nature of the model and the use of aluminium in motor racing. Though the two models retain the same case and bracelet as the standard version, the distinctive feature lies in their racin...
Revolution
The Travis Scott x Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Is a Watch Collab Done Right
Worn & Wound
Review: Christopher Ward’s The Twelve 36MM (and 40MM)
Last month, I had the opportunity to put together a list of the three watches I would choose for a collection if I had a budget of $5,000. Though I stand by my choices, selected through detailed research and great care, I have one small confession to make: none of those watches had ever graced my wrist. Fearing the imaginary cries of “j’accuse!” lest my secret be discovered, I tried on one of the three at a local authorized dealer within the week. This second opportunity was graciously made possible by the editors at Worn & Wound. I’m two for three now, so thus begins a personal journey predetermined by the Horological Fates. For this review, I lived a full day in the life with The Twelve. Two of these were the highly anticipated 36mm reference – one on the classic integrated bracelet, and the other on the rubber strap option. I also sampled the 40mm stainless steel reference on the bracelet in order to properly compare them. My wrist circumference, for reference, is about 5.75 inches. Christopher Ward’s goal in this 36mm launch was greater inclusivity towards women and other smaller-wristed folks, and I’m uniquely situated to consider both sizing options from this perspective. Each watch spent a day (or more) on wrist, so I was able to assess my true feelings towards them after the immediate New Watch Glee wore off. As a newbie reviewer, one helpful piece of advice I received was to pay attention to first impressions, and run with that if it felt right. Whil...
Hodinkee
Introducing: Travis Scott Presents The AP Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Openworked ‘Cactus Jack’ LE
Houston-born rapper Travis Scott partners with AP on a new chocolate brown ceramic QP.
Time+Tide
The Vacheron Constantin Overseas 35mm untweaks my tourb for this reason…
Zach's prayers have been answered with a new, smaller Overseas.The post The Vacheron Constantin Overseas 35mm untweaks my tourb for this reason… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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