Tourbillon Watches · Page 19

Introducing: The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monotourbillon Dr. Woo Episode III - Prepare Yourself For An Imaginary Intergalactic Trip

The third time that Dr. Woo, LA-based tattoo artist to the stars, and Genevan watchmaker Roger Dubuis collaborate, it takes on a galactic peace mission. The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monotourbillon Dr. Woo Episode III shows design elements only found in the unimaginable depths of space. After traveling galaxies yet unknown to humankind, the creative expedition […] Visit Introducing: The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Monotourbillon Dr. Woo Episode III - Prepare Yourself For An Imaginary Intergalactic Trip to read the full article.

Introducing - H. Moser & Cie Turns Up The Heat with the Pioneer Spiced Aqua Collection

If there’s something that cannot be said about H. Moser & Cie. is that the brand plays it safe. Looking at the recent releases of the brand, you’ll see dials in some of the most unusual and audacious colours. Take, for instance, the Pink Streamliner Cylindrical Tourbillon for Alpine, the zesty Pioneer Concept Citrus Green […]

Greubel Forsey Reworks the GMT Balancier Convexe

Greubel Forsey has refined its GMT Balancier Convexe with improved wearability due to a slightly smaller case, while maintaining the model’s trademark three-dimensional rotating globe. This is paired with some subtle, but interesting tweaks to the movement itself, including a new, and more elaborately decorated, escape wheel. Initial Thoughts Since the original GMT in 2011, the three-dimensional globe has become a Grebuel Forsey signature. Time zone-related complications are a natural fit for a sports watch, so much so that the brand’s first sports watch was a GMT. The brand has built on the GMT concept through multiple iterations, but the current version is arguably the most focused, without a tourbillon (or four), to distract from the core idea. The latest GMT Balancier Convexe is essentially the same as the previous model, but more wearable. It’s still a large watch, but scaled down and also might lightweight. The added power reserve indicator is also appreciated, and in hindsight, it’s odd that the function was absent in the first place given the utility of a power reserve display on a manual-wind travel watch. The World on Your Wrist Grebuel Forsey’s sporty Convexe cases have always worn somewhat smaller than specifications suggest due to the lug-less design, and the curved sapphire crystal back, which allows the watch to hug the wrist. However, a large watch that wears well is still a large watch. For the new GMT, Grendel Forsey has trimmed the case diamete...

Up Close: Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 Tourbillon

Urban Jürgensen has been revived in fine style thanks to its investors and of course Kari Voutilainen. With the Finn in charge of watchmaking, the reborn brand made its debut with a trio of watches led by the flagship Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 Tourbillon. Inspired by the Oval pocket watch made by Derek Pratt for Urban Jürgensen, the UJ-1 is impressive in its execution, from construction to decoration. The quality is evident across the watch, which is unsurprising given Mr Voutilainen’s role in its conception and production. And the occasionally controversial lugs give an otherwise classical watch a distinct character. Initial thoughts The fine details of the UJ-1 are easily apparent in the metal. The movement decoration and construction are both impeccable, and so is the guilloche on the dial. But it is details like the engine turned case back and typography that give the UJ-1 that little bit of extra refinement. It is obvious from the photos, the movement quality is outstanding. Frosting, black polishing, chamfering, and so on – all are expertly accomplished. Moreover, all of the decoration is done in a traditional, often manual manner, rather than being mostly done by machine and then finished off by hand as is increasingly the case now. But finishing is merely the more obvious aspect of the appeal. The construction of the movement is equally impressive. It captures the style of the Oval pocket watch, including the three-dimensionality and clean aesthetics. Even though...

Konstantin Chaykin Puts on a Masquerade with the Joker Iron and Gold Masks

Konstantin Chaykin has introduced two new additions to the Wristmons collection-Joker Iron Mask and Joker Golden Mask. The skeletonized masks don’t conceal much at all, putting the cadrature on full display. Chaykin launched the first “skeleton” Wristmon back in 2021 with the one-off  Martian Tourbillon for Only Watch. The Joker Iron Mask and Joker Golden Mask were teased as early as 2023, but production was delayed by the ambitious Stargazer Wristmon project the same year. Initial Thoughts For better or worse, Konstantin Chaykin isn’t famous for his intricate clocks or creative complications. It was his Joker watches that put him on the map, at least outside of Russia. In a way, these are novelty watches, but Chaykin’s creativity has kept the Joker series relevant far longer than expected, and he’s managed to work some of his most ambitious ideas, like the Stargazer and ThinKing, into the Joker design language. The Iron and Gold Mask watches are austere compared to other entries in the Wristmons series, which makes them a good option for those interested in Chaykin’s work, but themselves a little too serious to wear his more whimsical creations. The openworked dial and retrograde date also add technical appeal that’s lacking on typical wristmons.  The Module Behind the Mask The module is decorated with a traditional frosted finish, applied through sandblasting, inspired by historical pocket watches but with contrasting highly polished bevels for a more...

Introducing - The Hautlence Helix; Central Cylindrical Tourbillon and Double Retrograde Display

Born in 2004, Hautlence – whose name is an anagram of the Swiss city of Neuchâtel – has had its ups and downs but somehow remained dear to our hearts here at MONOCHROME. Disruptive, built around unusual time displays, housed in bold TV-shaped cases, the brand embarked on a new chapter in 2022 under the […]

Breguet Type XX Chronographe 2075

The Breguet Type XX, originally produced for France’s military pilots in the 1950s, is one of the most significant and influential watches with aviation ties, and represents the historical and, to many watch enthusiasts, largely unknown link between the Breguet family’s two areas of multigenerational savoir faire: watchmaking and aeronautical technology. The new Type XX Chronographe 2075, unveiled last week as part of Montres Breguet’s ongoing celebration of its 250th anniversary, stylishly pays tribute to this shared history in two distinctive iterations based on one of the very first civilian-marketed models. Origin of the Type XX A bit of history and background: Abraham-Louis Breguet, founder of the eponymous watchmaking maison, is known to many of us as one of the world’s most important watchmaking pioneers, whose many accomplishments include the invention of the tourbillon, keyless winding of watch movements, and the ubiquitous Breguet hands. Several generations of his family continued the horological tradition, but one great grandson, Louis-Charles Breguet, found another calling, in the burgeoning field of manned flight, founding Breguet Aviation in 1911. The company, today a part of Dassault Aviation, developed cutting-edge aircraft for the military units of Louis’ native France, including the famed Breguet 19 bomber used during World War I. Despite the ownership change in the watch business, both branches of the Breguet families kept close ties both to e...

Editorial: Urban Jürgensen is Back

Despite missing the original 2023 target, the revival of Urban Jürgensen has proceeded surprisingly swiftly, especially since the brand is making its debut with three all-new models, including the flagship UJ-1 tourbillon – a substantial achievement in a relatively short period of time. The brand was only acquired at end 2021 by a consortium led by American financier Andrew Rosenfield, which installed Kari Voutilainen at its helm, whose presence explains a great deal of the brand’s momentum and product quality. The impressive UJ-1 movement with a flying tourbillon incorporating a remontoir Mr Voutilainen is now co-chief executive of Urban Jürgensen as well as a shareholder; the watches certainly bear the hallmarks of his work, namely top-class execution. Rosenfield senior’s son, Alex, is fellow co-chief executive primarily focused on crafting the brand’s image, which is a little fresher than the artisanal watches would imply. Now in his seventies, Rosenfield senior is president of Guggenheim Partners, the investment bank and asset manager, but more importantly, a collector of independent watchmaking for several decades. Mr Rosenfield has been a client of Mr Voutilainen’s for many years now, and owns one of the biggest collections of the watchmaker’s timepieces in the world. Andrew Rosenfield. Image – Urban Jürgensen The allure A wealthy, successful individual buying a watch brand is not a novel happening. The allure of owning a prestigious luxury watch mar...

First Look - The Return of Urban Jürgensen, and the New UJ-1 Tourbillon, UJ-2 Time-Only and UJ-3 Perpetual

A couple of days ago, we published a long, in-depth article on the history of one of the most important watchmaking dynasties, Urban Jürgensen. There were more reasons for this article than just celebrating this historic name, which was founded in 1773. This article was here to prepare the grounds for what is happening today, […]

Urban Jürgensen Introduces the UJ-3 Perpetual Calendar

Urban Jürgensen closes its newly launched model lineup with a surprising creation, the UJ-3 . An integrated perpetual calendar that elegantly builds on the base of time-only UJ-2, the UJ-3 is equipped with a calendar module developed in collaboration with independent watchmaker Andreas Strehler. The UJ-3 is the third and final watch in Urban Jürgensen’s relaunch lineup, which was among this year’s most unexpected (but welcome) surprises. Initial thoughts The introduction of a perpetual calendar along with the two other models is an impressive move by the team at Urban Jürgensen. Brands typically debut with a single model; Urban Jürgensen has managed three all-new watches. The fact that in addition to a tourbillon (and a special one at that) of the UJ-1, Urban Jürgensen managed to develop a complex perpetual calendar is nothing short of remarkable. Moreover, the perpetual calendar of the UJ-3 integrated with the movement, and not merely added as a module.  Urban Jürgensen is being transparent in revealing the UJ-3 is a collaboration between Voutilainen and watchmaker-engineer Andreas Strehler. This openness is important, especially for independent watchmakers. The acknowledgement also adds pedigree to the piece given Mr Strehler’s good reputation. Personally, I find the UJ-3 more cohesive in design compared to the UJ-2. The calendar indications better fill the dial space, and the hands are no longer too small for the face. Also, the dial appearance evokes the p...

Urban Jürgensen Debuts the UJ-2 Time-Only

Urban Jürgensen’s entry-level model is now the time-only UJ-2. The brand’s new design language includes nods to the past without being repetitive. Compared to the limited-edition UJ-1 tourbillon, the UJ-2 is a simpler and (relatively) more accessible watch, with a calibre inside that can serve as a base for complications in the future. Initial thoughts The UJ-2 shows no obvious direct influence from past watches and marks the beginning of Urban Jürgensen’s new approach. The styling is reminiscent of Breguet’s work, but the fine details are traceable to Jürgensen’s own creations. Inside, a new movement bears Voutilainen’s unmistakable touch. The gilded, grained caliber appears plain at first glance, but it is of high quality and strikingly original in many respects. Among the four versions of the UJ-2, one in particular catches the eye. The rose-gold model in particular, with its bright silvered dial recalls George Daniels’s Millennium series, thanks to the off-center dial and gold dial rings. The small seconds sub dial is rather large, with its diameter almost spanning the watch face diameter. Along with its lopsided placement, it makes for an interesting sight. The dial as a whole looks classical, but with a slight minimalist touch - same as in the UJ-1. The movement inside looks to be the base for models to come. In a growing trend of using new materials, longer power reserves and high frequencies, the UJ-1 caliber remains quintessentially traditional,...

In-Depth: Urban Jürgensen UJ-1 250th Anniversary Tourbillon

Led by Kari Voutilainen and backed by an American collector, Urban Jürgensen has been revived in grand style. The brand’s inaugural watch is undoubtedly one of this year’s most surprising launches, the UJ-1 250th Anniversary Watch. The first of three new models, the UJ-1 is a limited edition that pays tribute to the Oval, a pocket watch created by Peter Baumberger and Derek Pratt that is perhaps brand’s greatest timepiece. Having been dormant for a while and a little confused in terms of focus (including jumping on the fad of an integrated bracelet sports watch), the brand is now running full steam ahead and going back to its high horology roots with a trio of models, led by the UJ-1 that lives up to expectations, and then some. Initial thoughts The UJ-1 sets the tone for what is to come from Urban Jürgensen by Kari Voutilainen. Even before turning the watch over and admiring its movement, the execution of the dial hints at the quality within, reflecting the fact that Mr Voutilainen is an undisputed master of guillochage. At first sight the piece shows an engine-turned face that is tastefully restrained. The collective style of Breguet, Jürgensen, Pratt and Voutilainen can be immediately discerned from the dial. While wearing all the marks of traditional engine-turned dials, the proportions, the typeface and the “zero” marker make it look a little updated and almost leaning on the minimalistic.   The subtle change suggests that the brand is truly going into a...

Frederique Constant Classic Tourbillon Manufacture Unveiled in Mother-of-Pearl at Couture 2025

Introducing - The Frederique Constant Classic Tourbillon Manufacture, now with Light Blue MoP Dial

The tourbillon has long been one of the long list of complications developed internally by Frederique Constant, used as a stand-alone feature or even paired with a perpetual calendar. And, in classic style for the brand, often with a price that’s well below the industry average. A couple of years ago, in line with its […]

Introducing - The Laurent Ferrier Sport Auto 79 now in Red Gold

The Sport Auto, first released in 2022, wasn’t the first attempt of Laurent Ferrier to create an elegant sports watch with an integrated bracelet. This must be credited to the Grand Sport, a large and high-end model with a tourbillon. However, the Sport Auto was even more important, as it entered the coveted category with […]

Hands On: F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain 20th Anniversary

Although Francois-Paul Journe is best known for his inventions like the Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite and Resonance, not to mention the whole suite of Octa models, the Chronomètre Souverain was also arguably one of his brand’s foundational models. This year F.P. Journe is marking two decades of the watch with the Chronomètre Souverain 20th Anniversary, which is essentially the original in new dress – the dial is now dark blue with applied gold numerals. Initial thoughts When the Chronomètre Souverain debuted in 2005 – the same year as the Breguet Tradition that was recently revived – it was novel and exciting; I remember the buzz amongst enthusiasts then. The F.P. Journe brand was barely six years old. The Chronomètre Souverain was then one of the rare few time-only watches from an independent watchmaker, and it had an all-new movement to boot. Today it is less exciting for sure, but the movement remains surprising novel for a basic calibre. As an entry-level watch, the Chronomètre Souverain remains excellent (even if availability is an obstacle). Although the Chronomètre Souverain is the simplest mechanical F.P. Journe watch, the cal. 1304 inside still retains the technical hallmarks of the brand, namely elegant, concise engineering and symmetry. Clever touches include the “invisible” gear train; only the regulator and barrels are visible on the main plate. From its conception, the cal. 1304 was conceived for chronometry. The utility and strength of t...

The seven affordable tourbillon watches you’d actually want to buy

Tourbillons can be many things, but can they be affordable? These seven watches are proof that they can.The post The seven affordable tourbillon watches you’d actually want to buy appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

H. Moser & Cie. Launches a Formula 1 Streamliner Duo

For its partnership with the Alpine Formula 1 team, H. Moser & Cie. debuts a pair of firsts for the brand: the Streamliner Alpine Drivers Edition is its first skeletonized chronograph, and the Streamliner Alpine Mechanics Edition is an entirely new model and the brand’s first true smartwatch – not counting the Swiss Alp Watch – with special digital functions tailored to the needs of an F1 team. While the regular production Streamline Flyback Chronograph already has a racing aesthetic, it’s been dialed up to match to the Alpine team colors, with the blue-coated steel case being notable. And the digital Streamliner is more than just a commemorative watch. Most Formula 1 sponsorships are just that, but Moser decided it wanted to contribute a tool the team can rely on during the season, just as mechanical watches were decades ago. Both will be sold as a set, though the smartwatch will be available individually to owner’s of the Streamliner Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton “Alpine”. Initial Thoughts Nothing is off the table for Moser, whose past “concept” watches included a watch made from a cheese-filled composite, one covered in living plants, and the infamous Swiss Icons watch. Even with that in mind, a smartwatch is unexpected, though it makes sense given the brand’s stated goals with the collaboration. Referring to the smartwatch, Chief executive Edouard Meylan says “we wanted to create a measuring instrument that meets the demands of a Formula 1 team,...

Hands-on - The Surprisingly Attainable Horage Autark Tourbillon

We’ve covered independent Swiss watchmaker Horage many times in the past few years, including several of its in-house movements from automatics to micro-rotors to tourbillons. The latest Autark Tourbillon separates itself as it’s truly a rare feat in watchmaking, combining a micro-rotor and tourbillon within the in-house K-TMR calibre. It’s all wrapped in Grade 5 […]

Introducing - The New Arnold & Son x Chronopassion Double Tourbillon “Landscape”

In 2014, Arnold & Son marked 250 years of John Arnold’s horological legacy with the debut of the Double Tourbillon Escapement, a timepiece that introduced a mechanically ambitious concept: two independent time displays, each driven by its gear train and regulated by its tourbillon. This duality, both technical and aesthetic, was made possible through separate […]

Introducing - The New Hublot Square Bang Tourbillon 4-Day Power Reserve in 3D Carbon

Following the detonation of Hublot’s extroverted Big Bang chronograph in 2005, the collection gradually expanded with several sub-families unified by their bold designs and distinctive fusion of materials. A couple of these sub-collections, like the Spirit of Big Bang with its tonneau-shaped case and the more recent Square Bang, departed from the round shape of […]

Hands-on - The Arnold & Son Constant Force Tourbillon 11, a Tribute to Some of the Greatest Watchmakers

In haute horlogerie, few relationships have shaped timekeeping history quite like that of John Arnold and Abraham-Louis Breguet. Bound by shared respect and a deep commitment to mechanical innovation, their friendship helped lay the groundwork for modern precision watchmaking. Arnold & Son’s latest release, the Constant Force Tourbillon 11, is a tribute to that legacy […]

Introducing - The Platinum Edition of the IWC Big Pilot’s Watch Tourbillon Le Petit Prince

IWC forged a fruitful partnership with the heirs of Antoine de Saint-Exupéry in 2006, the famous French author of Le Petit Prince, who was also a pilot and adventurer. The first Big Pilot’s Watch to seal the relationship appeared in 2013, setting the flight path for the Le Petit Prince sub-collection with retro styling and […]

New: Ba111od Chapter 4 Onyx Flying Tourbillon

Ba1110d once again partnered with with Olivier Mory to bring this next iteration of their flying tourbillon, now in a very discreet, onyx dial.