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Tourbillon Watches · Page 2

First Look – The Marco Tedeschi MT1.1 Tourbillon 7 Jours, The Evolution of a Watch once Made by Kross Studio Monochrome
May 22, 2026

First Look – The Marco Tedeschi MT1.1 Tourbillon 7 Jours, The Evolution of a Watch once Made by Kross Studio

Kross Studio has never been about conventional watchmaking, whether through its openworked designs or collaborations tied to everything from Star Wars to Batman. Last year, the Geneva-based brand introduced the MT1 Tourbillon, a manually wound tourbillon with a smooth lug-less case, crown-free construction, and fully openworked movement design. It was also a watch that carried […]

Hands-On: The H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Tourbillon Skeleton Hodinkee
May 22, 2026

Hands-On: The H. Moser & Cie Endeavour Tourbillon Skeleton

The Schaffhausen-based H. Moser & Cie. made quite an unconventional splash this year at Watches & Wonders, with its completely out-of-left-field collaboration with Reebok for the Streamliner "Pump," a watch-and-sneaker release that only this brand could somehow manage to pull off. But there was a release that kind of slipped under the radar earlier in the year that I think offers a really excellent combination of Moser's strengths in one watch, which warrants a closer look. I'm talking about the Endeavour Tourbillon Skeleton launched at the end of January, and it's been a watch I've wanted to see in person since the announcement went live. On paper, it seems like a simple enough concept: take the skeletonized flying tourbillon movement Caliber HMC-814 introduced back in 2024 for the integrated bracelet Streamliner collection, and pair it with one of Moser's more classic and conservative Endeavour silhouettes. For me, that skeletonized flying tourbillon caliber has remained one of my favorite architectures that the brand has ever come out with, and I think the extra bit of elegance gained with the Endeavour case makes it stand out on its own. That 40mm Endeavour case, in 5N red gold, should feel very familiar to those who like Moser's designs. It is a twist on a dressier silhouette that looks simple from the top down, but at any other angle, the Endeavour has many interesting little design touches, from the concave bezel to the distinctive sculpting of the case flanks. They...

Hands On: FVF Genève FVF1 “Seven Poets” SJX Watches
May 21, 2026

Hands On: FVF Genève FVF1 “Seven Poets”

FVF Genève founder Franc Vila has created a unique piece of his flagship tourbillon for a noted European collector of independent and complicated watches who goes by @thedeadwatchsociety on Instagram. The FVF1 Tourbillon “Seven Poets” is a romantic twist on the day complication that assigns a daily reading from one of seven historical poets. Initial thoughts Franc Vila is a man of many passions. His atelier in central Geneva is packed with art, and each piece has a story — I can’t think of anyone better to create a poetry-themed watch. Neither, it seems, could the lucky owner who commissioned the Seven Poets. The watch is fundamentally similar to the standard FVF1 C2 Tourbillon Superligero, with its 42.5 mm case, titanium monocoque construction, seven-sided day roller, and flying tourbillon architecture. Even in its basic configuration, the FVF1 is a distinctive offering that relaunched Mr Vila’s career after he parted ways with his eponymous brand. But the Seven Poets is anything but basic. Like the “Today” edition reviewed last year, the Seven Poets deviates from the norms of traditional watchmaking. Instead of indicating the day of the week, the day roller has been repurposed to feature the hand-engraved names of seven poets that are personally meaningful to the owner who commissioned the watch. I liked the conceptual, philosophical statement made by the “Today” edition, and the Seven Poets takes it one step further. This simple change to an indicat...

Highlights: Striking Complications from Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet at Christie’s Hong Kong SJX Watches
May 21, 2026

Highlights: Striking Complications from Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet at Christie’s Hong Kong

Two leading practitioners of fine watchmaking, Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet face off at Christie’s upcoming Hong Kong auction, Important Watches: Featuring “Kronos: Titans of Time”, “The Eternity” and “The Chronicle” Collections. The catalogue features blue chip high complications such as the Sky Moon Tourbillon, as well as under-appreciated neo-vintage discoveries, and the most striking of this selection doesn’t even chime. Lot 2424 – Patek Philippe Sky Moon Tourbillon Ref. 5002P-001 While Patek Philippe’s Sky Moon Tourbillon started as a supporting act to the Star Caliber 2000, miniaturising the latter’s planisphere with moon passage and phases, its mindshare has far surpassed its larger sibling. It was Patek Philippe’s most complicated wristwatch when first launched, and the super-watch of the 2000s. Collectors entering the watch world during that time speak of it with the same nostalgia and reverence 2000s kids give to the Bugatti Veyron. The design was rather contemporary for early 2000s Patek Philippe, and looks nothing like its successor, the baroque ref. 6002. At 42 mm in diameter, it was also notably large — the ref. 5016 with which shares most of its movement, was only 36 mm in diameter. It was forward thinking in another way, selling an extremely expensive, astronomical complication as an off-the-rack product, continuing Philippe Stern’s “build it and they will come” attitude that began with the Calibre 89. Patek Philippe’...

Experiencing The A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret Tourbillon Honeygold At The Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este Fratello
May 20, 2026

Experiencing The A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret Tourbillon Honeygold At The Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este

When we write about watches at Fratello, we typically have three levels of engagement with the product. First, we have our basic introduction articles, for which we base our writing solely on press materials, keeping it brief and factual. Second, we have our hands-on reviews, which allow us to spend time with the watch before […] Visit Experiencing The A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret Tourbillon Honeygold At The Concorso d’Eleganza Villa d’Este to read the full article.

Hands On: Nouvelle Chronometrie Montre Ordinaire SJX Watches
May 19, 2026

Hands On: Nouvelle Chronometrie Montre Ordinaire

One of the most intriguing debuts in independent watchmaking this year is Nouvelle Chronometrie with its Montre Ordinaire. Despite the name, Nouvelle Chronometrie is actually Japanese, and the “ordinary” watch is a tourbillon chronometer inspired by 20th century observatory chronometer watches and dressed in formal Breguet attire. With its rigorously classical design, evident on both the front and back, the Nouvelle Chronometrie is distinctly Japanese at heart in how it careful reproduces and enhances traditional watchmaking – executed with a great deal of attention to detail. Moreover, the manufacturing of the watch is a combination of both old school manual methods and modern technology, reflecting a typically Japanese embrace of technology, not for cost efficiency, but for the sake of quality. Initial thoughts I first came across Nouvelle Chronometrie on Instagram. It was just images of the watch, with no information on the brand’s origins. Then I learnt Nouvelle Chronometrie was founded and led by Noritaka Sakurai, a longtime collector who pivoted to join the industry – which ironically left me a little sceptical. Though I have known Mr Sakurai for a long time and regard him highly as a collector, he was chief executive at Hajime Asaoka’s watchmaking outfit until 2020 – that employer was a red flag for me. Fortunately, Mr Sakurai has left that behind, and has now gone all in with Nouvelle Chronometrie, a project that deserves recognition and praise. Accor...

Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret Tourbillon Honeygold SJX Watches
May 16, 2026

Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret Tourbillon Honeygold

A. Lange & Söhne has been a sponsor of the Concorso de Eleganza Villa d’Este for 15 years now, but this year marks the first time a limited edition is debuting at the event: the Cabaret Tourbillon Honeygold. Staged annually on the shores of Lake Como, the classic car show has historically awarded a unique Lange watch to the “Best of Show” winner. This year’s winner will once again receive a watch with an engraved hunter case back, but for everyone these there is the new Cabaret Tourbillon, a limited edition of 50 pieces that is the most appealing iteration of Lange’s most unusual, and least popular, wristwatch with a tourbillon. Initial thoughts The Cabaret Tourbillon is probably the least popular Lange tourbillon due to its shape and size; the original version was also relatively plain in terms of appearance. The new limited edition, however, looks and feels entirely different. Thought the dimensions are the same, it looks like a whole new watch with the Honeygold dial. The relief elements on the frosted surface give the dial a subtle depth, while the colour contrasts well with the case. Though this is not a Handwerkskunst edition, the dial gives it a special something. Ordinarily, a modest cosmetic makeover like this would be uninteresting, but here the gentle redesign elevates a watch that previously felt a little flat into something more inspired. I only wish Lange had given the movement a little extra decoration to set it apart from the standard calibre. As...

Hands-On: The A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret Tourbillon In Honeygold Hodinkee
May 16, 2026

Hands-On: The A. Lange & Söhne Cabaret Tourbillon In Honeygold

Niche Lange collectors, rejoice! The Cabaret is back! Well, sort of. Today, on this fine Saturday, Lange has brought back the Cabaret in its complicated form, with a 50-piece run of the Cabaret Tourbillon in the brand's proprietary Honeygold alloy. It is a hefty block of grey and Honeygold, with this rectangular silhouette making its first appearance after a 30-piece handwerskskunst run in 2021. The price point, like many of the past Cabaret Tourbillon editions, sits in the mid-six-figure range at around €300,000. When the Cabaret Tourbillon was first introduced to the world in 2008, it was quite horologically impressive, adding the world's first hacking tourbillon into the brand's rectangular design from 1997. It might sound quite surprising that a hacking tourbillon had not been produced until 2008, but being able to stop such a large mass like a tourbillon cage is certainly not an easy feat, especially when you require delicate parts to do so, and with the need to navigate around the tourbillon cage itself. After all, you'd need to be able to stop the cage at any orientation it's in, and at any point in the balance wheel's oscillation. So Lange's movement designers set to work and devised a V-shaped spring that would directly halt the balance wheel—not the tourbillon cage. Its V-shape, centered around a rotating pivot at the end of a lever, would mean that one side would make contact with the balance wheel or tourbillon cage post, and pivot the other side of the V i...

Bring a Loupe: A Patek Beta 21, A Movado Cronoplan, A Hamilton 6B 'Mark XI,' and a Zenith Time Command Hodinkee
May 15, 2026

Bring a Loupe: A Patek Beta 21, A Movado Cronoplan, A Hamilton 6B 'Mark XI,' and a Zenith Time Command

Scorekeeping last week: the only watch of the four highlighted to have sold is that bonkers purple-dialed Sub from Tropical Watch; the Patek 3970, the Omega 145.022BA, and the Movado Polyplan all remain available. Deep breaths, everyone: another week's on the books. Auction season's in full swing, and there are wild results all over the place, but let's take a little breather here, together, and look at less dizzyingly priced goodies. Strays Perhaps you've found yourself of late—coincidentally!—more curious than usual about pocket watches. While Mark's the Official Pocket Watch Tsar, I've always liked them, and fight the urge most weeks to include any here. No more! This week, there's this extraordinary, anonymous jump-hour pocket watch that is almost unfairly beautiful for being 200 years old. If that doesn't float your boat, you have the relatively uncommon opportunity to nab a Thomas Engel Tourbillon (if the name Thomas Engel doesn't register, gird your ego before digging in—compared with Professor Engel, we're all pathetic underachievers).  It doesn't seem reasonable that any of us should be able to purchase a gold Breguet pocket watch with hour and quarter repeater from 1795—insert Harrison Ford growling "It belongs in a museum!"—and yet you can do just that right here. If, however, you wish to remain yoked to the tyranny of telling time on your wrist, here's a Speedmaster Racing Dial which, yes, isn't exactly in showroom condition, but they're uncommon eno...

Hands On: Marco Lang Seven Spheres SJX Watches
May 15, 2026

Hands On: Marco Lang Seven Spheres

German independent watchmaker Marco Lang launched the Seven Spheres, the first multi-axis tourbillon wristwatch from Germany, and one of the few made with traditional materials and techniques. While the rotational speed is necessarily gradual, the central position of the massive seven-axis regulator affords a good view of the fine Saxon finishing from all sides. Initial thoughts Multi-axis tourbillons tend to be the domain of industrial brands, or independents that rely on industrial suppliers. It’s also a genre that’s overwhelmingly Swiss — Thomas Prescher is German, but produced his pioneering multi-axis tourbillons in Switzerland. In this context, the Seven Spheres is a departure from the norm in several respects. It’s Marco Lang’s first tourbillon since branching out on his own in 2019, and it’s the first multi-axis tourbillon made in Saxony. Without historical precedent to contend with, Mr Lang has produced something quite unlike any other German watch — a central, multi-axis tourbillon suspended within a donut-shaped movement. Despite its artisanal quality and low-volume production, the Seven Spheres costs no more than an equivalent from a big brand. It’s counterintuitive to suggest that a wristwatch that costs a quarter-million Euros is a good value, but on a comparative basis the pricing makes sense. Seven spheres, front and back Marco Lang cites the work of both Ptolemy and Carl Sagan as inspiration for the Seven Spheres’ architecture. The seven ...

The Surprising Royal Pop from Swatch and Audemars Piguet SJX Watches
May 13, 2026

The Surprising Royal Pop from Swatch and Audemars Piguet

Audemars Piguet (AP) and Swatch have teamed up to launch the Royal Pop, a series of lanyard-borne pocket swatches in eight pop art-inspired colourways set to hit stores on May 16th. It also debuts new manually wound Sistem 51 movements, including one with small seconds, to capture the pocket watch feel. This could be seen as AP having a little fun on a project set in motion by a Swatch-obsessed former CEO, or long-term thinking to cultivate the next generation of customers. Initial thoughts I imagine ambivalence will define the general reaction to the Royal Pop, as it should. A pop art-inspired pocket Swatch is a challenging product to casual watch buyers and enthusiasts alike. And I mean that as praise — it would have been much easier to go the MoonSwatch or Scuba Fifty Fathoms route, but much less interesting. Ref. SSX03L101N. Case in point, a non-enthusiast friend texted me over the weekend expressing interest in the Royal Pop under the common assumption that it would take after the MoonSwatch. In short, he was expecting a plastic Royal Oak. He was less enthusiastic — but not entirely put off — when I asked him how he’d feel about a manually wound pocket watch. Ref. SSX03R100N. While my favourite watches are overwhelmingly pocket watches (or pocket chronometers), I can’t see myself wearing one regularly, be it a Swatch Pop or a Nicole Nielsen tourbillon. I do, however, see myself attaching an Otg Roz Royal Pop to my keychain or workbag. Considering the recent ...

Conversations: Lange CEO Wilhelm Schmid on Capacity and Limited Editions SJX Watches
May 13, 2026

Conversations: Lange CEO Wilhelm Schmid on Capacity and Limited Editions

In the run-up to Watches & Wonders, our founder SJX sat down with Lange CEO Wilhelm Schmid to discuss the brand’s new releases, including the Saxonia Annual Calendar and the Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar “Lumen”. They also touch on the brand’s philosophy around limited editions, the challenges of training watchmakers on new movements, and why Lange has no plans to enter the custom-order market. Watch now on YouTube.  

Hands On: Ulysse Nardin Super Freak SJX Watches
May 11, 2026

Hands On: Ulysse Nardin Super Freak

Ulysse Nardin (UN) celebrates 25 years of the landmark Freak with the aptly named Super Freak — a timepiece that pays homage to its predecessors while asserting its own distinct identity. Showcased at UN’s eccentric booth at Watches & Wonders 2026, the Super Freak was advertised as the most complicated time-only watch ever made — an ambitious claim that appears to be true.  Blending cutting-edge mechanics with an artisanal touch, the exuberant Super Freak comfortably reaches into the “hyper-watch” echelon, echoing the first groundbreaking Freak launched back in 2001. Ulysse Nardin also celebrates its 180th anniversary this year, so something extraordinary was to be expected.  Initial thoughts Even before going hands on with the Super Freak, just visiting UN’s booth at Watches & Wonders 2026 was an experience. Passers-by were greeted by two humanoid robots and a large sculpture of Dr Ludwig Oechslin’s head, with his eyes peering down over the proceedings.  The extravagant entrance hinted at the research-focused Super Freak, which looks and feels more like the product of some advanced laboratory rather than a 180-year-old manufacture. A very dynamic watch, the Super Freak’s face now more than ever resembles a space craft.  The Super Freak pays tribute to 25 years of the Freak while also adding something truly new to the mix. The result is the UN 252, the first Freak movement featuring running seconds and two flying tourbillons (2010’s Freak Diavolo was ...

Hands-On: The A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Perpetual Tourbillon Lumen Hodinkee
May 8, 2026

Hands-On: The A. Lange & Söhne Lange 1 Perpetual Tourbillon Lumen

The watches of A. Lange & Söhne very rarely gets a chance to step out of the stoically traditional design language the brand has established since its relaunch in 1994, but one collection from the brand offers a unique respite from it all. Lange's Lumen series is now in its 16th year since the introduction of the Zeitwerk "Luminous" back in 2010, with its inaugural display of smoked sapphire, blacked-out details, and, of course, luminous numerals for the hour and minute discs. But while that model was the first to be executed, the following Grand Lange 1 Lumen in 2012 was the first model officially given the name "Lumen." Last month, at Watches and Wonders, Lange introduced the seventh Lumen in the lineup, with the new Lange 1 Tourbillon Perpetual Calendar Lumen. Following the absolutely bonkers Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon in Honeygold released in 2025 for the Datograph's twenty-fifth anniversary, this new glow-in-the-dark take on the very complicated Lange 1 model marks a pattern of increasing complication (and resulting price points) for the Lumen series. A closer look reveals that there's a lot going on, and for nerds, it's certainly a feast for the eyes. In person, the cold, austere look of the chunky, 41.9mm case in platinum immediately struck me, as it was a welcome return to the combination of a smoky, black look with white metal from the past two Lumen iterations in Honeygold (that Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon and its predecessor, the Zeitwerk). For a design ...

Daniel Roth’s Latest is Extra Plat-inum SJX Watches
May 7, 2026

Daniel Roth’s Latest is Extra Plat-inum

Daniel Roth’s latest addition to its time-only portfolio is the Extra Plat Platinum. A familiar face in a new colourway, the Extra Plat offers the Tourbillon Platinum‘s stealthy look in a more accessible two-hand format. Powered by the DR002 in-house calibre developed by Louis Vuitton’s La Fabrique du Temps (LFT), this regular production model brings a decidedly subtle look to the brand’s simple dress watch. Initial thoughts It’s been interesting to observe Louis Vuitton’s confident foray into haute horlogerie through the revival of Daniel Roth. Despite the corporate structure, astute collectors continue to speak of Daniel Roth in the same breath as other leading independent watchmakers. To the independent-collecting cognoscenti, the platinum Extra Plat should prove a compelling option – rooted in the early history of the independent watchmaking movement but built to meet contemporary expectations. Following Daniel Roth’s launch of the Tourbillon Souscription, the time-only, manually wound Extra Plat — “extra flat” for non-French speakers — debuted in an 18k yellow gold souscription edition followed closely by regular production models in rose gold, with and without skeletonisation. The new platinum Extra Plat rounds out the set. Combined with the matching dial with contrasting finishes, it creates a rather stealthy profile for this otherwise opulently finished dress watch. Extra Plat-inum The platinum double-ellipse case shares the wrist-friendly d...

Comments 1

  1. Anonymous
    So the rotating cage just averages out gravity's effect on the balance wheel across the full rotation? That's actually elegant. Makes sense why these cost so much.

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