Time+Tide
The new tourbillon-equipped Hublot Classic Fusion is Orlinski unleashed.The post The Hublot Orlinski Tourbillon is edgy and soft, all at the same time appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Monochrome
In recent years, using coloured cases and transparency has become a prevalent trend in the luxury watch industry. However, Hublot stands out as the undisputed leader when creating an entire timepiece in vivid colours and transparent materials. One striking example is the lemon-yellow Big Bang Tourbillon Neon Yellow, unveiled by Hublot in 2023. This exceptional timepiece […]
Revolution
SJX Watches
With Daniel Roth’s revival having become official last year, the brand has just taken the covers off the prototype of the Daniel Roth Tourbillon Souscription at LVMH Watch Week 2024. Retaining the style and dimensions of its 1990s inspiration, the Tourbillon Souscription is, however, an entirely new creation in mechanical terms, with the DR001 movement inside having been developed specifically for it by Geneva complications specialist La Fabrique du Temps (LFT). Initial thoughts The prototype of the Tourbillon Souscription arrives with subtle refinements compared to the images released last year. The aesthetics largely replicate the design of the 1990s originals, which was the brand’s goal from the beginning, at least for this opening act in its revival. Where the Tourbillon Souscription does better than the original is in the execution and mechanics. The guilloche dial is evidently top quality and also on a solid-gold base. More notably, the recessed area around the tourbillon, which is the actually the base plate, is finished with Côtes de Genève. On the originals this area was unfinished except for a rudimentary micro-blasting. But the calibre within is a more substantive achievement. The DR001 movement was conceived for this watch (though perhaps borrowing elements from LFT’s existing constructions) with aesthetics and traditional detailing in mind, explaining elements like the black-polished steel cock and linear winding click. In contrast, the originals relie...
Worn & Wound
For this year’s LVMH Watch Week, Hublot has unveiled their latest collaboration with the artist Richard Orlinskli, a pair of limited edition tourbillons in pop-art inspired shades with dramatically skeletonized dials. The Hublot partnership with Orlinski goes back to 2017, and during the ensuing years the Swiss watch brand and French contemporary artist have developed a bona fide collection within a collection. The Orlinski pieces, whether they’re to your taste or not, are so clearly connected to the artist that they are immediately recognizable, often using bold colors and prominent facets at oblique angles, a style that is a clear extension of his sculpture work. The new Classic Fusion Tourbillon Orlinski is full of familiar ideas from previous collaborations and Hublot mainstays, but pulled together into something that feels entirely new. The new collaboration starts with a 45mm Classic Fusion case in either yellow of sky blue ceramic, but true to form with the Orlinski watches, Hublot has given the artist the opportunity to shape and mold the case to his taste, adding the contours and facets that make the pieces so identifiable as “Orlinskis” to begin with. It’s uncommon for watch brands to give their collaborating partners this level of freedom, but it’s something we’ve seen from Hublot not just with Orlinksi, but in their work with tattoo artist Maxime Plescia-Buchi as well. Say what you will about Hublot, but they deserve credit for allowing the arti...
Monochrome
To celebrate the 60th anniversary of the iconic Carrera chronograph last year, TAG Heuer unveiled the Carrera Glassbox and a 42mm Carrera Chronograph Tourbillon, a timepiece equally characterised by seamlessly integrated domed sapphire crystal. Inspired by the domed hesalite crystals found on early Carrera models, this watch with refined ergonomics presented a distinct and clean […]
Monochrome
The Hublot MP series is a collection of masterpieces characterized by their disruptive and highly technical take on Haute Horlogerie. The latest chapter in this story, initiated in 2011, is the Hublot Big Bang MP-10 Weight Energy System Titanium. Visually arresting and technically complex, this limited edition timepiece is powered by a movement displaying the […]
Revolution
Fratello
Boisterous watch fans, rejoice! These three new Hublot watches will scratch your itch for color instantly. And apart from the colors, the watches are out of the ordinary in every possible way. The Big Bang Unico Green Saxem, for instance, features a case made of a brightly colored, transparent, sapphire-like material. And the Classic Fusion […] Visit Introducing Three New Hublot Watches: The Big Bang Unico Green Saxem And Classic Fusion Tourbillon Orlinski In Two Colors to read the full article.
Fratello
Today, Hublot is releasing a fascinating timepiece, the likes of which most of us have probably never seen. According to CEO Ricardo Guadalupe, “I gave our designers and watchmakers carte blanche, and this is the fruit of their labors.” Well, they certainly didn’t hold back! Let me introduce you to the Hublot MP-10 Tourbillon Weight […] Visit Introducing: The Hublot MP-10 Tourbillon Weight Energy System to read the full article.
Quill & Pad
When the De Bethune DB28 Tourbillon Deadbeat Seconds launched in 2012 it represented the upper echelon of the catalog and could be considered something approaching a brand flagship. And in Tim Mosso’s opinion, it certainly has the presence of a flagship.
SJX Watches
One of the most striking – no pun intended – timepieces created by Vacheron Constantin in recent memory are Les Cabinotiers Minute Repeater Ultra-Thin “Thunder God” and “Wind God”. Created for an Japanese-themed art exhibition in 2022, the two form a matched pair of striking watches, each featuring an miniature enamel dial reproducing one half of Wind God and Thunder God, a pair of folding screens so important they are a National Treasure of Japan. Initial thoughts Each year Vacheron Constantin (VC) introduces a sizeable Les Cabinotiers collection, typically several dozen watches in all, made up of one-off timepieces that are either complicated, decorated with artisanal techniques, or both. Last year’s line-up included a handful of ornate tourbillon watches and a diamond-set dragon watch. The “Wind God” and “Thunder God” duo, however, rank amongst the most impressive of the Les Cabinotiers. “Wind God” and “Thunder God” are variants of the regular production VC minute repeater, which is ordinarily a somewhat plain, large watch with a slim profile. The 41 mm case of the repeater, however, makes it ideal as a canvas, particularly for artwork that is large scale in real life, as the Wind God and Thunder God folding screens are. At a distance, both watches appear to be exceedingly plain, but up close each reveals remarkable miniature enamelling on the dial and a finely chased case accented by gemstones on the minute repeater slide. The case engravi...
Monochrome
Watches made by Moritz Grossmann, one of the top manufacturers in the small town of Glashütte, Germany, are known for their outstanding attention to detail and refined in-house movements. Yet, some stand out even more from the rest of the collection, either because of their complexity or due to the expressive power of traditional craftsmanship […]
Deployant
H. Moser releases an addition to the Streamliner Tourbillon line with a novelty in red gold with bracelet and a natural jade dial.
Monochrome
Just when we thought the onslaught of dragon-themed watches was abating comes a surprising pair of watches from Breguet. Ahead of the Lunar New Year 2024, Breguet unleashes two models bearing dragons who, according to the Chinese Zodiac, will rule the roost until 2025. Deploying its big guns, the Breguet Classique Double Tourbillon situates the […]
Monochrome
In 2020, H. Moser & Cie. introduced its Streamliner series, offering its distinctive interpretation of the luxury sports watch with an integrated bracelet. If you’ve followed the brand, you’re likely acquainted with the Streamliner’s diverse lineup, including the chronograph, perpetual calendar, time-only, small seconds and tourbillon models. Notably, the red gold Streamliner Tourbillon Vantablack from […]
Monochrome
Collaborations between watch brands and designers, artists, musicians, trendsetters, artisans, comic characters, action heroes, etc., are the order of the day. You’d be hard-pressed to think of a brand that has not succumbed to some outside input to generate a buzz among younger collectors or even wizened collectors looking for something fresh. Since the unveiling […]
SJX Watches
The latest iteration of Roger Dubuis’ signature model is the Excalibur Dragon Monotourbillon. A limited edition conceived for the Chinese Lunar Near Year, the watch features an stylised dragon composed of 27 brass plates that integrate the mythical creature into the bridges of the open-worked movement. Initial thoughts Best known for ultra-contemporary, open-worked calibres, Roger Dubuis (RD) specialises in extravagant designs, including the recent Knights of the Round Table. The Excalibur Dragon Monotourbillion is a prime example of what the brand does best. In contrast to most dragon-themed watches that are either traditional or whimsical, the Excalibur Dragon portrays the dragon in a modern, almost abstract manner. Although the watch is big and bold, attention has been paid to the finer details. The movement is open-worked in typical RD fashion and finished to Poinçon de Genève standards, which means bevelled edges, chambered flanks, and polished pins, amongst other things. And while the pronounced styling might not be for everyone, the Excalibur Dragon is actually more wearable than the typical complicated RD watch. At 42 mm in diameter and a bit over 12 mm high, it is moderately sized relative to much of the brand’s offerings. At CHF195,000, the Excalibur Dragon sits in between its most obvious comparables on the price spectrum, more affordable than Richard Mille and pricier than Hublot. The movement inside is arguably better executed than those of its rivals, t...
Worn & Wound
The Lunar New Year is set to begin on Feb 10th, coinciding with the date of the new moon, which will fall at 22:59 UTC on February 9th. This will be the Year of the Wood Dragon, which is said to bring authority, prosperity, and good fortune. We are in luck, as the good fortune starts early with multiple releases from many brands celebrating the new Lunar Year. Here are three stand out releases. First up, the Ulysse Nardin Blast Tourbillon Dragon. Since 2020, the Blast Tourbillon has been Ulysse Nardin’s symbol of unconventional know-how and for this Lunar New Year, they are quite literally releasing their inner dragon. They have crafted a 5N rose gold hand-sculpted dragon that coils its way around and through the skeletonized “X” structure. The entire case is made of 5N rose gold and DLC coated titanium. Limited to 88 pieces, it is 45mm in diameter and the MSRP of $100,600. Next up is the Blancpain Villeret Traditional Chinese Calendar. In 2012 Blancpain achieved a world first, with a watch that combined both the complex Chinese calendar and a Gregorian date and moonphase. To celebrate the Lunar New Year, Blancpain has engraved a dragon on the red gold rotor flanked by a red ruby. This ultra complicated movement has 464 individual components on 6 layers and its complexity nearly matches that of a minute repeater. The dial has been created in full fired grand feu enamel, its green color harmonizing with the red gold case. Limited to 50 pieces, it is also 45mm in d...
Fratello
Louis Moinet (1768–1853) was the inventor of the chronograph, so it’s always intriguing to examine the newest releases from the brand that bears his name. Today, we’ll look into the Impulsion Onyx, the latest variant within a line that debuted in 2023. This is an elegant watch with a sporty twist and a serious dose […] Visit The Louis Moinet Impulsion Onyx Is A Showpiece Tourbillon Chronograph to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
Delma is celebrating its Centennial Anniversary in 2024. Family owned and operated in Lengnau, Switzerland, Delma watches has been in continuous production since its inception in 1924. To mark this tremendous milestone, they have created something quite special. Introducing the Delma 1924 Tourbillon. Yes, you read that correctly, a Tourbillon, limited to just 100 pieces. Historically, the Tourbillon complication has been reserved for ultra high-end watch brands to flex their horological muscles, while at the same time commanding equally high prices. In recent years, however, brands like Tag Heuer and Horage have brought these prices down to the realm of relative affordability. Delma wanted to do the same, while also making sure the movement was 100% Swiss. What is the big deal with Tourbillons? Simply put, the Tourbillon places the escapement and regulator within a rotating cage that revolves 360 degrees in 60 seconds, effectively negating any positional errors. Tourbillon calibers have a reputation for being rather delicate, and are often fitted to dress watches in precious metals. With the help of their Swiss supply partners, Delma has gone the extra mile to ensure these watches are shock resistant to 5000g and antimagnetic to 2000 gauss. This sporty 41mm hand wound watch is made of 316L stainless steel and is nearly completely brushed, except for the beveled edges lining the top of the case. There is a display back, to admire the movement and it is fitted to a matchin...
Monochrome
It’s proving to be a bumper crop year for dragon-themed watches, and brands from all walks of life are deploying their creativity to create something inspiring for the upcoming Year of the Dragon. While it’s only natural to associate Roger Dubuis‘ Excalibur collection with the wonderfully over-the-top Arthurian-inspired Knights of the Round Table editions, it […]
Monochrome
Delma has rightfully earned its recent reputation for producing highly capable, functional, and accessible dive watches. However, the brand’s history, tracing back to its establishment in 1924 by brothers Adolf and Albert Gilomen as A. & A. Gilomen S.A. in Lengnau and currently operating from the same Swiss town, reveals a broader range of offerings […]
Deployant
Another of BCP Tourbillons is realised in the new Delma 1924 Tourbillon, celebrating the 100th anniversary of the Delma maison.
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