Can a watch be an investment?
Mostly, no. Most new watches lose a big chunk the day you buy them, and Morgan Stanley says used prices fell for 28 of the 35 brands it tracked in 2025. A small group does the opposite: the steel sports watches everyone wants, from brands that keep supply tight. Those are the ten below. Even these lost value when the market dipped in 2023 and 2024, so buy one because you want to wear it, and treat any gain as a bonus.
Patek Philippe
5811/1G-001 · 41mm white gold
Editor's Pick ~€67,500 (CHF 63,100)
The 5711 successor, still far above list price.
Patek Nautilus 5811/1G: the time-and-date Nautilus that replaced the steel 5711 in 2022, now in white gold. Cal. 26-330 S C, blue gradient dial, 120m WR. Fratello put its average grey-market price at around CHF 150,000 in early 2026, more than double retail.
Audemars Piguet
16202ST · 39mm steel
Editor's Pick €36,600
The original Royal Oak shape, current calibre.
AP Royal Oak Jumbo 16202ST: 39mm, extra-thin, cal. 7121, blue Petite Tapisserie dial. It replaced the 15202 in 2022. WatchCharts data puts Royal Oak references at an average of nearly 25% above retail, and Fratello put the Jumbo at about €30,000 over list on Chrono24 in 2025.
Rolex
126500LN · 40mm steel
Heritage €16,350
The steel Rolex with the deepest demand.
Rolex Daytona 126500LN: steel, black ceramic bezel, cal. 4131. The steel Daytona only went up 2.2% at retail in 2026, while Rolex as a brand keeps trading above retail on the used market. The cheapest way into the top tier on this list, if your dealer will sell you one.
Patek Philippe
5167A-001 · 40.8mm steel
€25,700
Steel Aquanaut on the rubber strap.
Patek Aquanaut 5167A: steel on the embossed rubber strap, black dial, cal. 26-330 S C. Patek dropped the steel bracelet version in 2025, so this rubber-strap 5167A is the steel Aquanaut to get. Patek was the strongest brand on the used market in early 2026, up 17% year on year.
F.P. Journe
40mm rose gold or platinum
~€39,150 (CHF 36,600)
The independent that beats its auction estimates.
F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain: 40mm by 8mm, hand-wound cal. 1304 with a rose gold movement and 56h reserve. Boutique only, CHF 39,600 in platinum. At the big auctions Journe hammered at an average of 146% of the high estimate in 2024, and a used Journe sells in a median of 36 days, the fastest of any brand.
Patek Philippe
40.8mm white gold
€62,600 (2024 list)
Aquanaut with a second time zone.
Patek Aquanaut Travel Time 5164G: white gold, grey-blue dial, local and home time with day/night windows, cal. 26-330 S C FUS. The Aquanaut is one of the few families WatchCharts credits with carrying Patek's resale strength.
Rolex
126710BLNR · 40mm steel
€11,450
The steel GMT after the Pepsi left.
Rolex GMT-Master II 126710BLNR: blue and black ceramic bezel, cal. 3285, Oyster bracelet. Rolex discontinued the steel Pepsi in April 2026, which leaves this and the Sprite as the steel GMTs you can still order.
Rolex
126720VTNR · 40mm steel
€12,250
Left-handed GMT, green and black bezel.
Rolex GMT-Master II 126720VTNR: crown and date on the left side, green and black ceramic bezel, cal. 3285. A newer, odder GMT than the Batman, but it's still a GMT-Master, the family WatchCharts lists among the few carrying Rolex's resale numbers.
Vacheron Constantin
4520V/210A-B128 · 41mm steel
€29,200
The third Holy Trinity sports watch.
Vacheron Overseas 4520V: steel, blue sunburst dial, quick-change bracelet and straps. Vacheron had one of the strongest years on the used market in 2025: EveryWatch saw sales and value up more than 50%. Easier to buy at retail than the Patek or AP.
Rolex
124060 · 41mm steel
Value €9,800
The entry ticket to the Rolex sports range.
Rolex Submariner 124060: no-date, 41mm, cal. 3230, 300m WR. The least exotic pick here. It won't make you rich, but Rolex is one of only three brands that still trade above retail on average.
Honourable mentions
Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/1A · 40mm steelDiscontinued in 2021. Only available used, and priced like it.
Rolex GMT-Master II 126710BLRO "Pepsi" · 40mm steelDiscontinued in April 2026, so used only from here on.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 15202ST · 39mm steelThe Jumbo before the 16202, replaced in 2022.
How to choose
If you can get an allocation: Nautilus 5811/1G or Royal Oak 16202ST. Best steel Rolex for value: Daytona 126500LN. The collector pick: F.P. Journe Chronomètre Souverain. Easiest to buy at retail: Vacheron Overseas or the Submariner. And whatever you buy, buy it to wear.
Frequently asked questions
Which watches still sell above retail?
According to Morgan Stanley and WatchCharts, only Rolex, Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet still trade above retail on average, and that's driven by a few families: Nautilus, Aquanaut, Daytona, GMT-Master and Royal Oak. Most other brands trade below retail used.
How much is a Nautilus worth over retail?
The white gold Nautilus 5811/1G retails for CHF 63,100. Fratello reported an average grey-market price of around CHF 150,000 on Chrono24 in early 2026, so more than double.
Is a Lange 1 a good investment?
Not on current data. Lange sells quickly on the used market, but SJX notes many popular Lange models trade below retail. Buy one because you love the finishing, not as an investment.
Can watch prices go down?
Yes. The WatchCharts index fell 10.7% in 2023 and 6.1% in 2024 before rising 4.9% in 2025. Even the big names lost value in that dip. Treat any watch as something to wear first.
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