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Formex

Swiss independent founded in Biel/Bienne in 1999, best known for its patented case-suspension system (a spring-mounted movement inside the case that absorbs shocks) and for the Essence integrated-bracelet sports watch. Revived under the founder's son in 2019 with a direct-to-consumer sales model, and positions itself against the mainstream Swiss-luxury segment with COSC-certified Swiss Made references at CHF 2,500-5,000 retail.

Founded1999
HeadquartersBiel/Bienne, Switzerland
FounderRaphael Granito (Sr.)
ParentIndependent
WristBuzz Articles63
Formex

Photo: Fratello · Apr 16, 2026

1999Founded
PatentCase Suspension
2019Revived
COSCMany References
63WristBuzz Articles

The Formex Story

Raphael Granito Sr. founded Formex in 1999 in Biel/Bienne, Switzerland, the industrial heart of Swiss mass watch production. Granito's founding innovation was the case-suspension system: the watch movement is mounted inside a spring-loaded chassis within the outer case, so shock forces to the case are absorbed before reaching the movement. The patent was issued in 1999 and has remained Formex's core technical differentiator.

Through the 2000s and 2010s Formex produced serious tool-and-sports watches with the suspension system: chronographs, divers, and GMT variants at mid-market prices (CHF 2,000-4,000). The brand was commercially modest but built a technical reputation among enthusiasts; Formex pieces were widely cited for their genuine anti-shock performance (verified in independent drop tests) and for the distinctive visual design of the exposed suspension springs through the dial or caseback.

In 2019, Raphael Granito Jr. (son of the founder) took over and relaunched the brand with a new commercial model: direct-to-consumer online sales through the Formex website, bypassing retailers. This allowed the brand to offer COSC-certified Swiss Made references with the suspension system at CHF 2,500-4,500 retail, meaningfully below competitive positioning. The flagship Essence (2020), an integrated-bracelet automatic sports watch, became the brand's commercial breakthrough; positioned directly against watches like the Tudor Black Bay and Oris Big Crown at similar pricing but with the case-suspension advantage.

The modern collection includes the Essence 39 and Essence 41 (integrated-bracelet sports watch), the Reef (dive watch, 300m), the Element (field-watch variant), and various limited editions. All references use COSC-certified automatic movements (ETA or Sellita base with Formex modifications) and the patented case-suspension architecture. Retail: approximately CHF 2,500 (Essence 39 base) to CHF 4,500 (Reef Blue Forged Carbon) and CHF 6,000+ for specific limited-edition configurations. Annual production is in the low tens of thousands, substantial for a direct-to-consumer Swiss independent.

Iconic Collections

Since 2020
Essence
The integrated-bracelet sports-watch flagship. 39mm or 41mm steel case, COSC-certified Sellita SW200 base with suspension system, tapered integrated bracelet.
Since 2015
Reef
300m-water-resistant dive watch. Ceramic bezel, COSC-certified, suspension system. Available in steel, black DLC, and forged-carbon-case variants.
Since 2022
Element
Field-watch variant with more utilitarian design vocabulary. Matte finishes, tool-watch legibility, 100m water resistance.
Since 2000s
Chronographs
Legacy chronograph line carried over from the first-generation Formex; Valjoux 7750-based with modified suspension integration.
Since 2020
Limited Editions
Annual limited variants: forged-carbon cases, specific dial colourways, collaboration pieces with microbrand retailers. Typically 150-300 pieces per edition.
Ongoing
Micro Collaborations
Small-batch collaborations with online enthusiast communities; typically sold to newsletter subscribers.

Heritage Timeline

1999
Raphael Granito Sr. founds Formex in Biel/Bienne; case-suspension patent issued
2000s
Formex grows as mid-market Swiss sports-watch brand with the suspension system
2019
Raphael Granito Jr. takes over; brand relaunches with direct-to-consumer model
2020
Essence integrated-bracelet flagship launches; becomes the commercial breakthrough
2022
Element field-watch broadens the collection; Reef dive continues to expand with material variants
2024
Brand production reaches low tens of thousands of units per year; direct-to-consumer channel remains exclusive sales route

Latest Formex News

Fratello
Introducing: The Formex Reef 39.5mm Automatic COSC 300M Forged Carbon
Apr 16, 2026
Monochrome
Introducing – Formex Reef 39.5 Forged Carbon, a new Look for the Brand’s Compact Diver
Apr 3, 2026
Time+Tide
Formex gives in to the power of the dark side, bringing a dark meteorite dial to the Essence Ceramica Dark Matter
Dec 15, 2025
Fratello
Formex Doubles Down On Ceramic With The Essence Ceramica Automatic COSC “Dark Matter” 41mm
Dec 10, 2025
Monochrome
First Look – COSC x Ceramic x Meteorite… Meet the Formex Essence Ceramica Dark Matter
Dec 9, 2025
Worn & Wound
A History and Guide to Formex
Oct 29, 2025
Monochrome
First Look – The New Formex Essence 41mm Automatic COSC in Steel
Oct 16, 2025
Worn & Wound
Formex Introduces New Dial Options in the Essence Ceramica Collection
Sep 29, 2025
Time+Tide
New releases from Tudor, Formex, Casio G-Shock and more
Sep 27, 2025
Fratello
Hands-On With The New Formex Essence Ceramica Automatic COSC 41mm
Sep 26, 2025
Monochrome
Introducing – Formex Dresses its Bestseller in Full-Ceramic with the New Essence Ceramica
Sep 25, 2025
Worn & Wound
The BEST Value Swiss Dive Watch Under $2,000? – Formex ‘Baby’ Reef 39.5mm Review
Sep 21, 2025
View all 63 articles

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