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Reference · Guide
All Patek Philippe Nautilus References Patek Philippe

Every Patek Nautilus: 3700/1A Jumbo Genta, 5711/1A, 5712 moonphase, 5980 chrono, 5990 Travel Time, 5811/1G white gold, 5740 perpetual.

Icon · Guide
Nautilus Patek Philippe

Gérald Genta's 1976 Patek sports watch. Sketched on a restaurant napkin at Baselworld 1974.

Wiki · Guide
Integrated Bracelet

Bracelet that flows directly from the case without separate end-links. Genta\'s 1972 Royal Oak innovation.

Wiki · Guide
Curved Fitted Rubber Strap

Vulcanised rubber straps moulded to integrated luxury sport watch lug geometry. Zealande, Rubber B, OEM AP and Patek.

Daytona drift: Where will the price slide end? Time+Tide
Rolex Jul 19, 2022

Daytona drift: Where will the price slide end?

A few weeks back, Ricardo explored how the crash of crypto has derailed the upward trajectory of many “asset-class” references such as the Royal Oak and Nautilus. Recently, Business Insider has echoed Bloomberg‘s sentiments – zeroing in on the most beloved modern Rolex of all: the Daytona. With the Daytona being the most sought-after modern Rolex, … ContinuedThe post Daytona drift: Where will the price slide end? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On: F.P. Journe Zodiaque “Children Action” Piece Unique SJX Watches
F.P. Journe Zodiaque “Children Action” Piece May 5, 2022

Hands-On: F.P. Journe Zodiaque “Children Action” Piece Unique

François-Paul Journe is perhaps the most successful living independent watchmaker – so successful that some of his watches have entered the same “hype” territory occupied by watches like the Nautilus and Royal Oak – which might mean that casting about for an overlooked F.P. Journe watch is a fool’s errand. But the brand does have a few hidden gems in amongst its past offerings, with the Zodiaque being one such watch. And Phillips’ upcoming Geneva sale has a one-off version that I had never seen in person until recently, the Zodiaque “Children Action” – which will be sold to benefit the titular children’s charity. The original Zodiaque. Image – Phillips The original Zodiaque debuted in 2004, just five years after the brand was founded, in a limited edition of 150 pieces. Despite its distinctive aesthetic and esoteric complication, the Zodiaque never enjoyed the success of its peers at the time, perhaps because of that very complication, which indicates the signs of zodiac with an annual calendar ring. Remember that in the years after the brand’s founding in 1999, F.P. Journe was merely a startup founded by a talented watchmaker with a peculiar personality; his watches weren’t exactly flying off the shelves. Yet Mr Journe still created this one-off watch for a good cause, which eventually became a yearly affair with the brand contributing unique watches to several charities, including subsequent timepieces for Children Action and of course the rec...

MICRO MONDAYS: The Maen Manhattan 37 delivers an integrated-bracelet watch at a bafflingly great price Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak have gone Apr 4, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The Maen Manhattan 37 delivers an integrated-bracelet watch at a bafflingly great price

In case you haven’t received the memo, stainless-steel, integrated-bracelet watches are white-hot. Scratch that: more like a Texas-sized asteroid flying straight into the centre of the sun-hot. Over the past several years, models like the Patek Philippe Nautilus and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak have gone from finely crafted-yet-anachronistic curiosities of ‘70s watch history, to the … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Maen Manhattan 37 delivers an integrated-bracelet watch at a bafflingly great price appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

WATCH ANALYTICS WEDNESDAYS: New Rolex price hikes, which models were the most affected? Time+Tide
Rolex price hikes which models Jan 5, 2022

WATCH ANALYTICS WEDNESDAYS: New Rolex price hikes, which models were the most affected?

Editor’s Note: In a new series for Time+Tide, we recently partnered with @watchanalytics to crunch the numbers and dig into the horological market trends and value fluctuations for the references that matter. Last time, we delved into the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Turquoise and its value spike in the wake of the record-breaking Patek Phillipe Nautilus 5711/1A-018 … ContinuedThe post WATCH ANALYTICS WEDNESDAYS: New Rolex price hikes, which models were the most affected? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Auction Watch: Sotheby’s to Sell Gerald Genta’s Own Royal Oak SJX Watches
Gerald Genta Dec 22, 2021

Auction Watch: Sotheby’s to Sell Gerald Genta’s Own Royal Oak

A watch designer whose talent lives on in his work, the late Gérald Genta was exceptionally prolific – he claimed to have penned over 100,000 creations. His family still possesses some 3,400 original sketches covering a bewildering diversity of timepieces. From that, a hundred sketches have been curated to form Gérald Genta: Icon of Time, a series of four thematic auctions staged by Sotheby’s in the first half of the year. The brainchild of Genta’s wife, Evelyne, the auctions will offer original sketches of his best known creations, including the Royal Oak, Nautilus, and Disney Fantasy watches – each accompanied by a non-fungible token (NFT). Three of Genta’s best known designs. Notably, the illustration of the Nautilus includes its case profile, unlike most of his sketches that depict only the front of the watch Essentially digital representations of the sketches, the NFTs “serve as a record of ownership and proof of provenance for each design, ensuring the value of each physical artwork is intrinsically connected to its digital counterpart which cannot be resold without the NFT that attests to the legitimacy of the piece” according to Sotheby’s. And these original works will be affordable, with each sketch and its NFT starting at just US$100, CHF100, or HK$1,000, depending on the sale location. But the highlight of the event is an actual watch – Genta’s own personal Royal Oak.  Slated to be sold at the final instalment of the event taking place...

Patek Philippe Introduces the “Advanced Research” Minute Repeater Ref. 5750P SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Dec 14, 2021

Patek Philippe Introduces the “Advanced Research” Minute Repeater Ref. 5750P

Just days after the inaugural Nautilus ref. 5711/1A Tiffany & Co. 170th Anniversary sold for just over US$6.5 million, Patek Philippe has announced a wristwatch at the other end of the watchmaking spectrum. The latest in a series of watches focused on experimental new technologies, the “Advanced Research” Minute Repeater ref. 5750P-001 is the ultimate Patek Philippe minute repeater in terms of acoustics. Equipped with a patented amplification device named ‘fortissimo “ff”‘, the ref. 5750P strikes chimes that are so loud they are audible 60 m away according to Patek Philippe. Initial thoughts The ref. 5750P is interesting both mechanically and aesthetically. The R 27 PS movement certainly lives up to the “Advanced Research” label with its amplification mechanism, while the design is practically radical, at least in terms of Patek Philippe grand complications. While the “fortissimo” device relies on a few familiar principles, including a crystal soundboard and perforated case back, it is still novel enough to make it interesting. While other watchmakers have built repeating movements based on the same concepts, including Audemars Piguet with its Supersonnerie, Patek Philippe has done it in a classical fashion with an impressively thin movement that is very much typical of the brand. Visually, the ref. 5750P is radically different from any Patek Philippe repeater. Even the most contemporary of the brand’s striking watches are conventionally classical in...

“This is what watch collecting is all about” – Aurel Bacs on the Tiffany Blue 5711/1A-018 selling at Phillips for $6.5M USD Time+Tide
Dec 11, 2021

“This is what watch collecting is all about” – Aurel Bacs on the Tiffany Blue 5711/1A-018 selling at Phillips for $6.5M USD

This week, the watch world was eagerly awaiting what the result of “lot 1T” would be, and, not if it would break the record for the highest hammer price for a 5711 Nautilus, but rather by how much. Watching the bidding live, even remotely you could feel the energy and excitement in the room. For … ContinuedThe post “This is what watch collecting is all about” – Aurel Bacs on the Tiffany Blue 5711/1A-018 selling at Phillips for $6.5M USD appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Patek Philippe Introduces the Annual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5905/1A SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Oct 14, 2021

Patek Philippe Introduces the Annual Calendar Chronograph Ref. 5905/1A

A model often overshadowed by “hot” watches or more complicated ones, the ref. 5905 combines a pair of useful complications into an everyday dress watch, but it was previously available only in a conservative, luxe guise of precious metal case and classical dial colours. But now Patek Philippe is changing up the feel of the model with the Annual Calendar Chronograph ref. 5905/1A. Now cased in steel and matched with a three-link bracelet inspired by the Aquanaut, the ref. 5905/1A retains the sectored dial found on earlier versions of the model, but now in olive green – the same shade found on the Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-014. Initial thoughts Patek Philippe’s opening act for the year was the Nautilus ref. 5711/1A with an olive-green dial (and with the option of a diamond-set bezel), an immediate hit that has become one of the most sought-after watches of 2021. The Nautilus was already hot, as all sports watches with integrated bracelets are, but bestowing the most fashionable colour of the year on the “final edition” of the Nautilus ref. 5711 escalated its desirability to the stratosphere. That bodes well for the ref. 5905/1A. The ref. 5905/1A will be instantly attractive since it caters to current tastes. Its inevitable desirability will overshadow its intrinsic qualities (and also the accessible price), which is a bit of a shame. While intriguing it is not, the ref. 5905/1A is a good-looking watch, and one executed in a practical material while offering usef...

Patek Philippe Introduces the World Time Chronograph Ref. 5930P SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Oct 14, 2021

Patek Philippe Introduces the World Time Chronograph Ref. 5930P

Patek Philippe just launched a trio of new chronographs, all variants of existing models. While the ref. 5905/1A in steel is the most affordable, the World Time Chronograph ref. 5930P-001 is surely the most striking with its emerald-green guilloche dial (which is a brighter shade than the olive green of the ref. 5905/1A or Nautilus ref. 5711/1A-014). And despite a dial colour that’s novel for a world-time model, the ref. 5930P does hark back to historical world-time watches with its silver cities ring. Initial thoughts The ref. 5930P is only a different take on an existing model, but it’s certainly a vivid new look. Past versions of the ref. 5930 were either subdued (which was the original in blue) or too much (the Singapore edition in red). The ref. 5930P in emerald green appears striking but just right. A key point of appeal is the silver world-time ring that gives it a look that more closely resembles vintage world time watches, which is a good thing for anyone who appreciates historical Patek Philippe design. This contrasts with earlier versions of the ref. 5930, both of which had tone-on-tone world-time rings, making them less prominent. Notably, Patek Philippe historically utilised such bright colours only on limited editions, so the ref. 5930P is an unusual watch amongst the standard offerings. That said, with green being the most fashionable colour of the year, it goes without saying that the ref. 5930P will be mostly unavailable for the near future. Emerald g...

Horizon Watches Debuts with the Horizon Diver SJX Watches
Blancpain Fifty-Fathoms Oct 12, 2021

Horizon Watches Debuts with the Horizon Diver

The latest crowdfunded maker of affordable dive watches, Horizon Watches was founded by a veteran of the micro-brand scene, Fred Bekher, a designer who has penned dozens of watches for horological startups. Mr Bekher’s first design for his own brand is the Nautilus, a dive watch with an Art Deco-meets-steampunk aesthetic. Though the model name sounds like something else, it takes inspiration from literature, specifically the submariner commanded by Caption Nemo from Jules Verne’s Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea.  “While I was reading [the novel] as a child, I would imagine how the Nautilus looked like”, Mr Bekher says of his love for sci-fi and the steampunk world of Verne’s works. Initial thoughts The model name aside, the Nautilus is an original design – it manages not to look like anything else – which is an achievement in the space of affordable dive watches. It’s also thought in form, something that’s evident in the dial and case construction, notable for a watch that starts at US$350. And the design is appealing, most notably the Art Deco font and the smartly-disguised date. And smart it is: the date window is sized identically to the hour markers, while the date disc is entirely “lumed”, so it glows just like an hour marker. That said, some details do inevitably call to mind other, more famous dive watches, namely the Breguet Marine in terms of the dial and the Blancpain Fifty-Fathoms for the bezel, but as a whole the Nautilus passes ...

DON’T FEED THE HYPE: 3 alternatives to the Rolex Daytona Time+Tide
Rolex Daytona Last week we Aug 11, 2021

DON’T FEED THE HYPE: 3 alternatives to the Rolex Daytona

Last week we began our “Don’t Feed the Hype” series and, based on your feedback, many of you are on board with this idea of exposing potential alternatives to largely unobtainable watches. To be clear, this is not a take down of watches like the Nautilus or Royal Oak. We love these pieces we are … ContinuedThe post DON’T FEED THE HYPE: 3 alternatives to the Rolex Daytona appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Watches on integrated bracelets have a secret downside. Does Vacheron Constantin have the cure? Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin have May 2, 2021

Watches on integrated bracelets have a secret downside. Does Vacheron Constantin have the cure?

Grail watches come in all shapes and sizes, from that vintage Seiko chronograph to a German masterpiece from the town of Glashutte. But when it comes to current hype, one category trumps them all: the integrated bracelet sports watch. For me, the elusive Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 is still one of my ultimate dream watches, … ContinuedThe post Watches on integrated bracelets have a secret downside. Does Vacheron Constantin have the cure? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Patek Philippe Introduces the Ref. 5236P In-line Perpetual Calendar SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Introduces Apr 12, 2021

Patek Philippe Introduces the Ref. 5236P In-line Perpetual Calendar

Shortly after launching the Nautilus ref. 5711/1A in green, Patek Philippe is taking the covers off something far more serious in terms of mechanics – the Ref. 5236P In-line Perpetual Calendar. Clearly inspired by vintage perpetual calendar watches like the refs. 3448 and 3450 (and a dial that’s modelled on a vintage Calatrava), the ref. 5236P is ranks as amongst the most notable Patek Philippe calendar watches of recent years – both in terms of design as well as its newly-developed movement. Bearing a close resemblance to the ref. 5235 Annual Calendar – an under-appreciated watch that I regard highly – the new ref. 5236P is equipped with a built-from-scratch calendar module that’s as complicated as some entire perpetual calendar movements. And it is powered by a refined and improved version of the uncommon cal. 31-260 micro-rotor movement that was so far only found in the ref. 5235. The cal. 31-260 PS QL in the new ref. 5236 An under-dial view of the calendar mechanism with the four co-planar discs at top Initial thoughts While clearly inspired by historical designs, the ref. 5236P manages to be different – and the most compelling perpetual calendar in Patek Philippe’s catalogue. The design heritage is clear: the ref. 5236P shares the same case style as the ref. 5235 annual calendar (which I like). Admittedly the ref. 5236P perhaps a bit too big to be as elegant as Patek Philippe’s most refined cases, but the size combined with the distinctive design m...

Vacheron Constantin Introduces Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin in White Gold SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Introduces Overseas Perpetual Calendar Apr 11, 2021

Vacheron Constantin Introduces Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin in White Gold

The style du jour in luxury watches today, the integrated-bracelet sports watch – exemplified by the Nautilus and Royal Oak – describes many of the most desirable watches today. Though a newcomer relative to its peers, it would be remiss to look past the Overseas, which is as thin, distinctive, and finely finished. Now Vacheron Constantin has unveiled perhaps the best versions of the model yet – the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin and the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Skeleton – both in white gold with dials in blue. Initial thoughts Both watches aren’t new – the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin was first introduced in 2016, while the skeleton variant was launched last year. The novelty is merely the new colour, as well as the white gold case for the skeleton model (which was previously only available in pink gold). Compared to the previous iterations, the new blue-and-white-gold combinations give the two watches a modern, understated aesthetic that makes them perhaps the most attractive models in the entire Overseas line. My pick of the pair is the skeleton model, which eminently striking, with its open-worked aesthetic – with all the intricate mechanics on display – elevating the look to another level. My pick would be the skeleton model Both new models are priced about 10% more than their predecessors in pink gold, which is more or less in keeping with the industry norm of pricing white gold slightly high (due to ostensibly hi...

INTRODUCING: The 2021 Vacheron Constantin Overseas Collection Time+Tide
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Collection Many watch Apr 6, 2021

INTRODUCING: The 2021 Vacheron Constantin Overseas Collection

Many watch enthusiasts have become caught up with the Patek Phillipe Nautilus and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. The aforementioned brands and references have reigned supreme in the integrated stainless-steel category for decades, but the challenge of sourcing one at retail has led many to finally give due credit to the equally fascinating Vacheron Constantin Overseas. … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The 2021 Vacheron Constantin Overseas Collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Greubel Forsey Introduces the GMT Sport with an Integrated Bracelet SJX Watches
Greubel Forsey Introduces Apr 6, 2021

Greubel Forsey Introduces the GMT Sport with an Integrated Bracelet

Best known for its ultra-exotic tourbillons, Greubel Forsey builds movements with unique three-dimensionality and exemplary finishing. In 2019, it started applying its unusual brand of watchmaking to the sports watch for the first time with the GMT Sport – a world time with inclined tourbillon – and now follows up with the new GMT Sport that has the same movement but the addition of an integrated titanium bracelet, a first for the brand. Initial thoughts Although the integrated-bracelet sports watch may be new for Greubel Forsey, it’s now a familiar and fashionable concept. Greubel Forsey is relatively late to the party – beyond veterans like the Royal Oak and Nautilus, such sports watches are already found at almost every price point, from Citizen’s US$2,000 Series 8 to the Lange Odysseus. That said, the GMT Sport is noteworthy for one simple reason – it’s the most complicated, and perhaps best finished, integrated-bracelet sports watch money can buy, combining a world time, dual time, and an inclined tourbillon. So while Greubel Forsey took its time with the concept, the brand certainly executed it in style. I much prefer the new GMT Sport over the earlier version. For one, the bezel is now plain, devoid of the tiny, relief inscriptions that are something of a Greubel Forsey signature but don’t quite work on a sports watch. The dial is now entirely in blue, giving the new GMT Sport a more modern look (that admittedly is also fashionable given the popular...