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Time+Tide
I was 35,000ft over the Atlantic when I first freaked someone out about his watch. It was in the line for the airplane toilet. A guy was ahead of me, wrestling a full-bladdered toddler. This, I reasoned, is exactly the moment he’ll want a stranger to ask about his Panerai. He’ll tell me the story … ContinuedThe post How not to talk to total strangers about their watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
A Swedish watchmaker founded by knife maker Johan Gustafsson and watchmaker Patrik Sjögren, Gustafsson & Sjögren (GoS) is best known for incorporating pattern-welded steel, better known as Damascus steel, in its watches. But GoS also frequently works with fellow watchmakers and artisans, à la MB&F; but at a more affordable level. Its latest watch is a five-way collaboration that combines traditional guilloche, generous Super-Luminova, and hand-made glass: the Norrsken, Swedish for northern lights, the seasonal light display seen over the North Pole. Initial thoughts The Norrsken is a departure from mainstream watchmaking, but even stands out against the increasingly crowded independent watchmaking scene. It is made up of familiar elements, like the guilloche dial and Black Badger “lume”, but of high quality and combined in an interesting, novel manner. Produced by a well-known guilloche specialist, the dial is artisanal but excellent. Similarly, the case also looks to be just as well-executed, with the bezel available in either polished or Damascus steel; though the latter makes the most sense given GoS’ speciality. And the movement comes from Schwarz Etienne (a brand that has enjoyed greater success with its movements in watches other than its own), but equipped with a micro-rotor crafted from Damascus steel. The green Damascus steel dial, seen here in a prototype And the Norrsken lives up to its name, managing to evoke northern lights, or aurora borealis, in...
Time+Tide
Deepfakes are a phenomenon only a few years old, but already have governments around the world very worried. In essence, a deepfake is a fake video generated by a type of artificial intelligence called deep learning, which then creates a realistic impression of someone. Just think Photoshop in the 21st century with a slight Twilight … ContinuedThe post This deepfake of Tom Cruise has been seen 30M+ times. But why is he wearing such hot watches? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Inspired by a mid-century gentleman’s watches, the Trésor is a newish sub-collection of Omega’s longstanding De Ville line. Just announced alongside the new Seamaster 300, the latest addition to the range is the De Ville Trésor Small Seconds, the most pared-back version to date. Also new is the slightly more complicated, but equally elegant, De Ville Trésor Power Reserve. Tresor Small Seconds (left) in Sedna gold, and Tresor Power Reserve in yellow gold Initial thoughts The new Trésor is unique in Omega’s catalogue for its movement and dial. It’s one of the very few Omega watches without a rotor, with the other more famous model that’s also hand wind being the Speedmaster Moonwatch. The manual-wind movement is apt, feeling at home on a dress watch and well suited for its vintage-inspired style of the Trésor. The cal. 8927 in the Small Seconds The new models illustrate the improving design of the Trésor line up, at least for watch enthusiasts who appreciate traditional design. The model range started with a format familiar for Omega – centre seconds and the date at six – but the new Trésor is focused, with all superfluous functions removed. Also gone is the patterned dial, giving the watch a cleaner appearance. With its simpler aesthetic, the new models gain a stronger identity, differentiating the Trésor from the rest of the catalogue, and even its fellow De Ville watches. Though the new design is progress, it’s still not perfect, yet. The desig...
Time+Tide
I’ll bet many people weren’t even aware of the name o2T, and that’s a big credit to TAG Heuer. It takes guts to downplay the micro-wonders of the mythical tourbillon, swirling slowly inside its cage at 6 o’clock. While we daily see references with less dazzle but 10 words to their model designation, here it’s … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Carrera Heuer o2T gets a dark blue makeover to allow its flying tourbillon to shine appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Max Büsser brings us through the journey that has been the MB&F; Legacy Machine family of watches, 10 years on since the LM1 was introduced. He recounts the challenges that lay ahead of him in creating MB&F;’s second collection and the friends who were there along the way to help realize the aptly named Legacy Machine timepieces.
Time+Tide
Bremont has long been considered Britain’s largest watch brand. Now the founders, Giles and Nick English, are looking to build on that success after opening the doors this week to their much anticipated manufacturing and technology centre, The Wing. With the Bremont Manufacturing and Technology Centre (AKA The Wing), Bremont are looking set to stretch … ContinuedThe post Bremont brings large scale watch production back to the UK with the opening of The Wing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Bronze dive watches are already a well established fad, and a little passé. Omega has sidestepped that by going one step further, putting its own twist on the idea with an interesting proprietary alloy that combines copper and gold. This unprecedented material makes its debut in the Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold, the flagship model in its new line of retro dive watches. Notably, because Bronze Gold is an alloy with low gold content – its proportion of the precious metal is less than 40% in contrast to 75% in ordinary 18k gold – the Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold is more affordable than the typical gold dive watch. Initial thoughts The new Seamaster 300 is the perfect watch to introduce the new alloy, since bronze is very much a material for maritime adventures, while its gold content creates a warm, slightly aged look befitting for the vintage-inspired design. The result is a watch that’s seemingly aged yet resplendent. And it’s worth pointing out the faux-vintage Super-Luminova on the dial and hands work better with the warm colours of the Seamaster Bronze Gold than on the steel version that’s evidently a modern watch in colours and style. Even though Bronze Gold is one of the most intriguing new alloys of late, Omega already has numerous gold alloys to its name – from white Canopus gold to red Sedna Gold – which makes the new alloy seem less exciting than it deserves. Still, its retail price of a bit over US$11,000 makes the Seamaster 300 Bronze Gold one of the mos...
SJX Watches
Part of Les Collectionneurs – vintage wristwatches that have been sympathetically restored by the brand itself – the ref. 4261 is very much a classical, mid-20th century gentleman’s watch, albeit one with a minute repeating movement. The design is simple and accented by the barest of flourishes, yet it manages to be distinctive enough to feel like a Vacheron Constantin. In fact, the slim minute repeater with teardrop lugs is arguably the archetypal design for a Vacheron Constantin striking watch. The ref. 4261 that’s now in show in Singapore, part of a selection from Les Collectionneurs The little extra that marks out the ref. 4261 as a special watch According to Vacheron Constantin, the ref. 4261 was the first minute-repeating wristwatch model produced by the brand. Launched in 1943, it remained in production until 1951, but just 36 were produced during the period. They were offered in yellow or pink gold, as well as platinum. About a dozen were made in yellow gold, and this is one of them. It is also one of the last ref. 4261s made, having been finished in 1951, the final year of production. Most interestingly, this example is powered by a 13-ligne movement. It was the largest minute-repeating movement used by Vacheron Constantin at the time. According to Vacheron Constantin, just ten of the ref. 4261s produced contained a 13-ligne movement, while majority were equipped with a slightly smaller, 12-ligne calibre. Just 5.25 mm high – less than half the height of ...
SJX Watches
Traditionally considered one of the “holy trinity” in haute horlogerie, Vacheron Constantin vast, rich archive of historical timepieces. For several years now, Vacheron Constantin has carefully mined that history, curating a compact collection of vintage watches each year for Les Collectionneurs, restored vintage watches offered at its boutiques. Les Collectionneurs includes Vacheron Constantin timepieces from the last century that span the brand’s repertoire, from the mega-rare complicated references to more affordable time-only watches – all sympathetically restored and backed by a two-year warranty. A selection of Les Collectionneurs watches are on usually show at a handful of boutiques around the world, and a 16-piece line up recently landed in Singapore. From now till March 31, 2021, the watches will be available at the Vacheron Constantin boutique in Marina Bay Sands, alongside Diptyques, an exhibition exploring the brand’s historical watches created in collaborations with other artists, jewellers, and designers (which are drawn from the brand’s museum and not for sale). Here’s a look at highlights from the Les Collectionneurs line up in Singapore. Ref. 4414 “Heure Universelle” pocket watch Completed in 1949, this yellow gold pocket watch is equipped with the world time mechanism invented by Louis Cottier. Unlike a GMT watch that tells the time in a second location, a world time use a simple but clever pair trick to show the time in all 24 time zo...
Two Broke Watch Snobs
I mean, how many times are you going to need to know a time zone in the pitch blackness? Unless Carmen Sandiego has stolen all electricity and the sun, you’ll probably be able to track the time for her whereabouts just fine without the extra lume, gumshoe.
Time+Tide
You’ll have heard this about vintage watches before: tread carefully when you have these pieces serviced and who you allow to work on them. With Rolex, in particular, you’ll be aware of the dangers of having the factory service their vintage watches and the horror stories of these coveted watches losing the elements that make … ContinuedThe post Why servicing a vintage Rolex will only get harder and more expensive appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Revolution
Vacheron Constantin’s vintage curation for 2021’s Les Collectionneurs particularly showcases their exemplary watch designs from the mid-20th century
Quill & Pad
De Bethune highlights that there is more than one way to rotate a watch, using its floating lug system to perfection in the new DB Kind of Two Tourbillon. Look out, Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso! Watching the blue tourbillon escapement beating away in high-def macro video is simply captivating: you'll want to watch it over and over and over.
Time+Tide
It’s no secret we are rather enamoured with the Bulgari Octo Finissimo and calling it a micro-technological marvel of the new century would not be overselling it. Following our article on Bulgari’s latest chapter of one-upmanship – where they managed to somehow engineer a tourbillon to fit the already infinitessimally optimised space inside the angular … ContinuedThe post RECOMMEND READING: The insane craftsmanship in the Bulgari Octo Finissimo revealed by The Naked Watchmaker appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
“By this time next year, we’ll expand even further into the junk food franchises… get ready for the Pink Starburst Seawolf. The Astropop. The Count Chocula GMT… Ecto Cooler… The Hamburglar… Cool Ranch Doritos… iconic names for iconic color sets.
Time+Tide
Let me start by saying that I’ve had quite the week. Summer doesn’t seem to want to end, the T+T Team are working really hard on a few very exciting projects that we’ll be able to announce soon, but that wasn’t all. We were lucky enough to attend the first watch event in real life … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: The Rolex that changed its red and blue stripes, catch-ups on Clubhouse and IRL and the collectability of G-Shock appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
When one of your non-watch friends asks how much your watch cost, they’ll probably be shocked or straight up appalled that anyone could spend thousands, never mind tens of thousands of dollars on something that tells the time “just like your phone”. So how do you explain the reason why watches are so horribly expensive? … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED WATCHING: 3 reasons why watches are so horribly expensive appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Having introduced the ultra-advanced quartz Caliber 0100 in 2019, Citizen is now turning to mechanical movements. Making its debut in the flagship The Citizen collection, the Caliber 0200 is a newly-developed automatic with all the technical features expected of a high-end modern movement, along with more elaborate decoration thanks to the input of Swiss movement specialist La Joux-Perret. Citizen’s first new mechanical since 2010, the Caliber 0200 elevates its mechanical watchmaking to a new level in both construction and aesthetics. Similarly, the first wristwatch equipped with the Caliber 0200 boasts a more sophisticated degree of finishing on its complex case and integrated bracelet. The Caliber 0200 Initial thoughts Going by the images, the Calibre 0200-equipped The Citizen is an impressive watch. And going by Citizen’s other high-end watches, this will almost surely look as good in real life as it does in photos. Measuring an elegant 40 mm by 10.9 mm, the case has complex surfaces and impeccable finishing, and also a distinctive look. Though some of the design elements do bring to mind other watches, it is original enough, which is a feat given the proliferation of integrated-bracelet designs today. But the highlight is the movement, which is perhaps best described as a high-end workhorse calibre. The construction and specs tick all the right boxes, and so does the finishing, which is superior to many watches – Swiss and Japanese – in the same price range. Th...
Deployant
Presenting full details and hands-on with The Citizen mechanical model features the newly-developed Caliber 0200 mechanical movement. This is a new mechanical movement, and the first to be developed by Citizen in-house since 2010, and the first developed in collaboration with their Swiss subsidiary Manufacture La Joux-Perret S. A. As we understand it, Citizen hasRead More
Quill & Pad
More than a century of history of Baselworld, the world’s biggest and most comprehensive watch fair, is virtually impossible to sum up in just a few lines. However, that is what Elizabeth Doerr does here as she looks back over 102 years of Baselworld history and reflects on what happens next. Hopefully that is, "Pack your bags for Houruniverse 2021."
Time+Tide
Just when we had finally sussed out the design language of Moser they have another ace up their sleeve and it seems to be a very big sleeve indeed. The H.Moser & Cie Streamliner Flyback Chronograph still feels new, even after being out for almost a year and, with its timeless vibe, I suspect that’ll … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The H.Moser & Cie Streamliner Flyback Chronograph refuses to play by the rules appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: Yesterday we took at look at all of the Australian Open tennis players who actually wore their watches while competing. Today we’ll be shining a spotlight on the rest of the watches on display and some of them are real cross-court winners. The final days of the 2021 Australian Open are underway in … ContinuedThe post Watchspotting at the Australian Open watches including Bulgari, Audemars Piguet and, of course, a ton of Rolex appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
We bring you the low-down and our honest thoughts on the Bovet Dimier Récital 29, the first of the series to have a stainless steel case.
Time+Tide
George Bamford is about as passionate and enthusiastic a member of the watch community as you’ll ever find. His boisterous energy is infectious whether he’s discussing his Ferrari 275 GTB or the Bamford Watch Department x Time+Tide GMT1. And it’s this energy that is set to be the driving force behind his new podcast GB … ContinuedThe post George Bamford launches GB Talks podcast to discuss the sleepers of the vintage watch world appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
In this first episode of “Who Needs A Book Club!”, Karishma Karer, Sandra Lane, and Elizabeth Doerr discuss buying a first watch, basic at-home care of mechanical watches, how to be taken seriously as a female in watches, and the best watches to gift a man or a women. This is not just for women: men might learn something here too.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Things get fun, things get heavy, and you’ll even hear a few resolutions from the fine folks on the TBWS Slack channel. Tune in, and don’t forget to share your 2021 watch resolutions on the Facebook page and Instagram.
Two Broke Watch Snobs
Now, Kaz has been unplugged for a bit, so you'll get a real-time reaction to some of the newest models from large and small brands.
Quill & Pad
There are a plethora of places to see in Porto − the city center is a UNESCO World Heritage site − but one absolute must for wine aficionados is to spend a couple of hours across the river Douro in Vila Nova de Gaia visiting a Port house and tasting the wines. Follow me on such a journey . . . saude!
SJX Watches
Named after the aluminium-bodied Mercedes-Benz Formula 1 cars of the 1950s, the Longines Silver Arrow was introduced in 1956. Typical of mid-20th century gentlemen’s watches, the Silver Arrow is a functional but elegant design with a discreet flourish in the form of fluted hour markers. Notably, the Silver Arrow was first reproduced about a decade ago, but with a date and simpler execution all around. Now it returns as a more sophisticated remake that is far closer to the vintage original, but with a latest generation ETA movement equipped with a silicon hairspring. Initial thoughts Like the brand’s other recent remakes, the Silver Arrow maintains the look and feel of the original, albeit enlarged as most reproductions are. The dial has the details of the original, as does the thin case and even the crown. Longines’ Heritage remakes are often modelled on military-issue or sports watches, resulting in a strongly utilitarian aesthetic. The Silver Arrow is different, offering another look while still preserving the strong value of Longines’ historical remakes. Priced at US$2,100, the Silver Arrow will be difficult to beat in terms of classical watches in its price segment. Silver Arrow redux The silver dial features unusual, fluted indices just like the vintage original. That, along with the sword hands and correct typography create a faithful replica of the 1956 Silver Arrow. As is standard practice, the remake is larger than the original, although the new Silver Arr...
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