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Business News: Patek Philippe Acquires Stakes in Geneva Gem-Setting Giant SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Acquires Stakes Sep 14, 2022

Business News: Patek Philippe Acquires Stakes in Geneva Gem-Setting Giant

Little know outside the industry but a key supplier to the biggest watch brands, Salanitro S.A. is Switzerland’s biggest gem-setting and jewellery specialist catering to watchmakers. Owned by its namesake founder until now, Salanitro now counts Patek Philippe as a shareholder. Founded three decades ago by Pierre Salanitro, the company is located a Geneva suburb not far from Rolex headquarters. A discreet but well-connected individual, Mr Salanitro built his company both organically and through acquisitions, creating an enterprise that’s the preeminent jewellery and gem-setting specialist for the watch industry. Today Salanitro far exceeds the competition in scale with annual revenue in the high nine figures and over 230 employees, more than half of them gem-setters. The company covers all the bases when it comes to jewelled watches: it supplies, cuts, and sets gemstones, and also produces components with the three dozen CNC mills on its premises. Gem-setters at work in Salanitro’s facility. Image – Salanitro The art of gem-setting is a manual process that requires deft hands. Image – Salanitro Mr Salanitro’s three children have no involvement in the business, explaining his desire to seek a strategic investor.  “I am very proud and delighted that Patek Philippe has acquired a stake in my company,” says Mr Salanitro, “[The brand is] the ideal partner for securing the firm’s future… [and] continue our activities and guarantee jobs beyond generations....

MICRO MONDAYS: The Orator Sportsman Diver is the resurrection of a forgotten ’60s gem Time+Tide
Blancpain Sep 12, 2022

MICRO MONDAYS: The Orator Sportsman Diver is the resurrection of a forgotten ’60s gem

With a name like Orator, you would expect this brand to have a good story behind it. Thankfully it delivers, as one of watchmaking’s forgotten brands that used to share the same limelight as Rolex and Blancpain. Although it’s likely you’ve never heard of the Orator Sportsman, the brand has been resurrected with the goal … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Orator Sportsman Diver is the resurrection of a forgotten ’60s gem appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

OPINION: Are publications hyping up “collapsing” watch prices? Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Aug 13, 2022

OPINION: Are publications hyping up “collapsing” watch prices?

For the last month every publication under the sun has seen a traffic gold-mine in the purported “collapse” in secondary pricing for “hype” watches from Rolex, Audemars Piguet, and Patek Philippe among others. Even we tackled the subject with our own reader-alluring doom and gloom headline. But, after fully digesting the situation, I am beginning … ContinuedThe post OPINION: Are publications hyping up “collapsing” watch prices? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Ben Affleck’s watch collection is choc-full of surprises Time+Tide
Richard Mille Aug 8, 2022

Ben Affleck’s watch collection is choc-full of surprises

Rolex, AP, Richard Mille. If you were taking a multiple choice test on which watch a celebrity was wearing, the three aforementioned brands would be your safest bets. That’s because celebrities are often fairly safe with their wristwear. Even if they stretch beyond the common three, whatever other brands we catch on their wrists tend … ContinuedThe post Ben Affleck’s watch collection is choc-full of surprises appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Zenith Defy Skyline joins Chronomaster Sport as a “waiting list” model Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet these super-hot brands all Aug 2, 2022

Zenith Defy Skyline joins Chronomaster Sport as a “waiting list” model

It is kind of a shame that a barometer for the success of a watch reference is when it is not readily available to purchase at retail. In an era of “unobtanium” Rolex, Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet, these super-hot brands all have standard-production watches selling at a premium due to their lack of availability. … ContinuedThe post Zenith Defy Skyline joins Chronomaster Sport as a “waiting list” model appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Daniel Craig’s Omega Seamaster from No Time to Die to be auctioned for charity Time+Tide
Omega Seamaster from No Time Jul 29, 2022

Daniel Craig’s Omega Seamaster from No Time to Die to be auctioned for charity

When you ask many collectors what got them into watches, you’ll often hear them attribute the spark to James Bond. The charismatic secret agent is intricately tied to timepieces, wearing various watches from Rolex, Seiko, Heuer, Pulsar, and, more recently, Omega across the six decades and 25 films of the James Bond franchise. As a … ContinuedThe post Daniel Craig’s Omega Seamaster from No Time to Die to be auctioned for charity appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Business News: Watches & Wonders Returns to Geneva in March 2023 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Jul 12, 2022

Business News: Watches & Wonders Returns to Geneva in March 2023

Having successfully pulled off the first large-scale watch fair in Switzerland since the pandemic started – and the first expanded event that included Baselworld transplants like Rolex and Patek Philippe – the organisers of Watches & Wonder will be doing it again next year. Watches & Wonders 2023 will take place in Geneva from March 27 to April 2, 2023 – though those are “provisional dates” according to the organisers. But before that the event will take place in two cities in China. First on the tropical resort island of Hainan from October to December 2022 where it will happen simultaneously in Haikou and Sanya. The CDF Mall in Sanya Last year’s W&W; at the West Bund Art Centre in Shanghai Each of these respective events will be taking place in a shopping mall operated by one of the country’s two primary duty-free retailers, China Tourism Group (CTG) in Haikou and China Duty Free Group (CDF) in Sanya. And then from November 23 to 27, W&W; will move to the West Bund Art Center in Shanghai, where it took place in previous years. Intriguingly, the announcement the 2023 event in Geneva begins with “Watches and Wonders announces… its first provisional dates for 2023”. And it omits the list of exhibiting brands. That is perhaps a hint that next year’s event will not have the same exhibitors as this year, reflecting widely discussed tensions between the various exhibiting brands and groups.  

What watches do The Avengers wear in real life? Time+Tide
Patek Philippe Jul 5, 2022

What watches do The Avengers wear in real life?

Editor’s Note: In honour of Thor: Love and Thunder hitting theaters July 8th, we decided to revisit our favorite watches worn by The Avengers cast. Like their roles in the films, the spectrum of watches are diverse, ranging from top-tier brands like Patek Philippe and Rolex to smaller independents like Urwerk. Scroll down to discover their … ContinuedThe post What watches do The Avengers wear in real life? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Citizen Introduces the Hakuto-R GPS Chronograph SJX Watches
Citizen Introduces Jun 10, 2022

Citizen Introduces the Hakuto-R GPS Chronograph

Having debuted the world’s first titanium wristwatch in 1970 – it was the X-8 Chronometer with a case of nearly pure titanium – Citizen now boasts some 50 years of experience with the lightweight metal. Now the brand has taken its materials expertise into outer space, literally. Citizen supplies its proprietary Super Titanium alloy to ispace, a Japanese company that specialises in robotic spacecraft technology for landers and rovers. Ispace utilises Super Titanium for the legs of the lunar lander slated to launch around the end of 2022. Known as Hakuto-R, the ispace lunar programme now as its own commemorative watch, the Citizen Hakuto-R Collaboration Satellite Wave GPS F950. Its case is naturally Super Titanium but some components are made of “Recrystallised Titanium”, a unique, textured alloy that evokes the Moon’s surface. Initial thoughts Like many high-end quartz watches, the Hakuto-R is an electronic grand complication – it features a perpetual calendar, world time, a 1/20th of a second chronograph, and then some. Though this isn’t the first Hakuto-R collaboration, it is the most appealing in terms of aesthetics. It looks the part for a high-end quartz watch – even without the GPS sync it will run within five seconds a month. It has busy, complex aesthetics entirely appropriate for a watch packed with various cutting-edge features. But like Citizen’s other high-end electronic watches, also excellent fit and finish on the external components suc...

Zenith Introduces the Calibre 135 Observatoire SJX Watches
Zenith Introduces Jun 3, 2022

Zenith Introduces the Calibre 135 Observatoire

Having already designed its own El Primero limited edition, Phillips has collaborated with Zenith and Voutilainen to create the Calibre 135 Observatoire, a limited edition of 10 watches each powered by a cal. 135-O. The movement was the specially-regulated variant of Zenith’s flagship chronometer wristwatch movement of the mid-20th century, conceived solely to participate in observatory chronometer contests. As such, the movements were never cased and sold, until now. Contained in a platinum case, the movements were light decorated by Voutilainen, which also supplied the guilloche dial via its dial making subsidiary Comblemine. Initial thoughts The Calibre 135 Observatoire is a good looking watch. It’s evidently modelled on the vintage model and doesn’t change too much of the original design, but instead injects a few elegant details that give it more refinement, like the guilloche chapter ring. These discreet flourishes are enough to set it apart as a higher end watch than the vintage original, which are more of a functional precision chronometer. More broadly, it’s a three-way collaboration that reflects the strengths of the collaborators to different degrees. For Phillips, the Observatoire is a sensible collaboration since it chimes with its strength in selling both vintage and modern watches at the top end of the price spectrum. And it also a perfect base for the auctioneer to utilise the discerning eye of the gentlemen behind the project, namely Aurel Bacs a...

Longines Introduces the Ultra-Chron High-Beat Diver SJX Watches
Longines Introduces Jun 2, 2022

Longines Introduces the Ultra-Chron High-Beat Diver

Historically a prominent participant – and winner – at observatory chronometer trials, Longines once had a stable of extra-precise, high-frequency movements, though the calibres have been long discontinued as were the chronometer competitions. Several decades later the watchmaker from Saint Imier pays homage to that history by reviving the Ultra-Chron, which is based on its namesake 1968 original but with a newly-developed high-beat movement contained within vintage-inspired, cushion-shaped case matched with a similarly retro steel bracelet. Initial thoughts The vintage Ultra-Chron is a good basis for a remake as it avoids being yet another vintage-inspired diver with a round case. While the design isn’t new, the cushion case distinguishes it from the competition, offering enthusiasts something less common. Personally, I like the functional, 1970s style of the Ultra-Chron; the red accents lend the watch the feel of an instrument. But going by how Longines has expanded the palette of the Legend Diver, additional, modern colours for the Ultra-Chron are a possibility (and a certainty if it sells well). But the new Ultra-Chron is notable not just for its style. Though the Longines catalogue has an impressive tally of historical remakes, all of its Heritage models to date contain standard movements identical to those found in the brand’s other models. The Ultra-Chron, on the other hand, stands out for the high-beat calibre that was developed specially for it (though t...

You’ll never guess the watch of footballing wonderkid Erling Haaland… Time+Tide
Patek Philippe invariably make regular appearances May 2, 2022

You’ll never guess the watch of footballing wonderkid Erling Haaland…

Top footballers have the financial muscle to indulge their wildest horological dreams. But I’m often surprised at how predictable their picks tend to be. When perusing the wrists of the stars of the Premier League or Serie A, the likes of Rolex and Patek Philippe invariably make regular appearances while a Royal Oak or Richard Mille … ContinuedThe post You’ll never guess the watch of footballing wonderkid Erling Haaland… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Oh buoy! The Brellum Pandial LE.1 sets sail to become a real summer watch contender Time+Tide
Apr 29, 2022

Oh buoy! The Brellum Pandial LE.1 sets sail to become a real summer watch contender

Brellum has become a common feature not only on our Micro Mondays series, but also several top “insert number here” lists, and for good reason. The brand is completely independent, produces only 299 units per year, with all of those units being chronometer-grade. The new Brellum Pandial LE.1 Chronometer is set to become the brand’s … ContinuedThe post Oh buoy! The Brellum Pandial LE.1 sets sail to become a real summer watch contender appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.