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Time+Tide
The Maurice Lacroix Aikon Skeleton Urban Tribe introduces even more complexity and depth At 39mm in diameter, it’s a comfortable fit for such a visually-loud watch The skeletonised dial artfully shows off the ML115S movement, based on a Sellita SW200 Maurice Lacroix aren’t afraid to get experimental, and the Urban Tribe is a key example … ContinuedThe post Maurice Lacroix Aikon Skeleton Urban Tribe appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
As we predicted last week, the amount of releases these past seven days was massive. Geneva Watch Days is one of the key events in the watch world and it was definitely a blast. We introduced a ton of watches this week on the site, and there is still more to come! But, for now … ContinuedThe post New releases from HYT, Citizen, Bulgari and more appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Sinn is a cult brand with a unique quality (ok, several) – each of their watches also has a cult following. Are you a 556-head? A U1 kind-of-guy? No? How about a 103-fiend? Or, do you like the 70s vibe of the 144 the most? No matter what, there’s a Sinn line you can geek out over, as over the years each line has had several to dozens of variations and special editions created under it. But, there’s been one model that has felt somewhat ignored over the last several years. A line that is actually a bit of a favorite around at Worn & Wound and on my perennial “someday I’ll pick one up” list – the 356, Sinn’s most compact automatic chronograph. At 38.5 x 46mm for a long, long time, the 356 was one of the smallest automatic, or even mechanical, chronographs you could find for a reasonable price. Powered by the venerable Valjoux 7750, it blended a classic military pilot chronograph layout, one that pulled from Type 20s and the like, with a case that felt more like a field watch in its size and stripped-down appearance. The result was rugged, understated, and altogether charming. Check out our review from 2014. While variations of the 356 exist or have existed, including different crystal options, a stunning model with a salmon stamped-guilloche dial, and an elusive 12-hour UTC model, it’s not a line that has gotten much attention recently. This is why today’s announcement, celebrating the 25th anniversary of the 356 with three new models, is so exciting. To ...
Time+Tide
The new CarbonGold variants go back to 1993, the first time Bulgari combined high-tech with traditional luxury Extremely light due to their full carbon construction, the models are highlighted in 18k rose gold Ultra-thin is the name of the game, with both the automatic and perpetual calendar movements measuring in under 3mm For Geneva Watch … ContinuedThe post Bulgari weaves golden threads into their new Octo Finissimo CarbonGold collection appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Soon after unveiling the Big Pilot perpetual calendar in white ceramic, IWC is introducing the Pilot’s Watch Automatic 41 “Black Aces”. While retaining the customary dial layout of the model, the “Black Aces” sports a fully-luminous dial – a first for the brand. The watch gets it name from the U.S. Navy’s Strike Fighter Squadron 41 “Black Aces”, which collaborated with IWC on the watch’s key design elements. Initial thoughts The recent Top Gun watches with coloured ceramic cases have been bestsellers for IWC, though most have been complicated and pricier models. Hence, it is rather pleasing to see IWC do something with the entry-level Pilot’s Watch by giving it a simple yet appealing twist. Instead a run-of-the-mill dial colour, the “Black Aces” gets a lume dial that’s novel for IWC. The full-lume dial, however, is not new to watchmaking, with several brands having such dials for several years now, including Bell & Ross with its pilot’s watches. Beyond the colour, the military provenance and “Black Aces” emblem gives the watch a tangible military link that many of IWC’s fans will like. Notably, this watch contains the cal. 32100. I would have preferred the cal. 32111 that was used in the new Ingenieur instead. Both are essentially the same calibre, but the latter is a higher-spec version of the movement with a longer power reserve of 120 hours, as opposed the 72 hours of the cal. 32100. This movement was presumably used because o...
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Worn & Wound
Dive watches are incredibly popular, and for good reason. Rugged looks, go anywhere specs, and a distinct aesthetic make them one of the most common styles of watch amongst enthusiast circles. A true ISO-spec dive watch is no doubt a valuable tool when diving, but may be overkill for your daily needs. Born from the famous lineup of Seiko’s SKX of the past are the new SKX Sports watches from Seiko 5. We have two new models available in the shop, so let’s take a look at these toned-down dive-style watches that are ideal for daily wear. Dive watches are incredibly popular, and for good reason. Rugged looks, go anywhere specs, and a distinct aesthetic make them one of the most common styles of watch amongst enthusiast circles. A true ISO-spec dive watch is no doubt a valuable tool when diving, but may be overkill for your daily needs. Born from the famous lineup of Seiko’s SKX of the past are the new SKX Sports watches from Seiko 5. We have two new models available in the shop, so let’s take a look at these toned-down dive-style watches that are ideal for daily wear. The post Now in the Shop: Two Dive-style Watches from Seiko For Daily Wear appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Hodinkee
What's a rumored $30 million car anyway if you can't get a pièce unique watch to go with?
Time+Tide
In the never-ending quest of making vintage-looking modern watches, brands tend to forget one key element: the tactile vintage feel. Getting the yesteryear look right can’t be easy, and getting the vintage feel when holding the watch in the hand seems to be nearly impossible to replicate. That is probably due to the fact that … ContinuedThe post MICRO MONDAYS: The Branch Sector offers class and reliability under US$1,000 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
Subtlety will never go out of style and the new Pioneer Silva, from Swiss-German watch brand Hanhart, exemplifies this. With its low-profile design and simple aesthetic, the Silva has a presence without ever veering into the ostentatious. It’s a watch that’s just as comfortable paired with a suit as with jeans and a t-shirt. To accomplish this, Hanhart married modern design trends with classic elements. The watch itself is based on an archival reference, the Kal 36/39, which was reinterpreted for the modern age. Updates have included an uncluttered broad dial with an emphasis on sleek lines and readability. With that, there are still charming nods to Hanhart’s heritage models, including the white dots between numerals and the vintage Hanhart logo that’s recognized on a few Pioneer models. The Pioneer Silva isn’t just a watch that looks good, but functions well, too. The Silva has an automatic movement that runs on a Sellita SW200, offering a 38-hour power reserve. The SW200 can be seen in action through the sapphire glass backing on the Silva, adding another level of eye candy to this watch. As mentioned, the case of this watch has a low profile, making it a great watch for everyday wear. Coming in at just 10mm in height, the 38mm stainless steel case has presence on the wrist without the bulk. With the option of either a black or white dial, and a black calfskin or steel bracelet, Hanhart has embraced the minimalism of this watch to show off the versatility ...
Time+Tide
If you're looking for an affordable dressy chronograph for a small wrist, you can't go wrong with the 36.5mm Bicompax 003 from Baltic.The post Why the new Baltic Bicompax 003 Salmon hardly left my wrist appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Worn & Wound
Last week, a conversation began in our Worn & Wound+ Slack community about how you know it’s the right time to sell a watch. We thought it would be fun to get the team together, to find out what the determining factor is for everyone on how you come to the difficult (or not so difficult) decision to let something go. There are a lot of variables at play, from wear time, to financial considerations, to pure laziness, that determine when or if a watch gets sent to the classified listings of our favorite enthusiast forums. Check out the reasoning for these decisions among our editorial staff and team of contributors below, and be sure to let us know in the comments how you know that it’s the right time to sell a watch. Zach Kazan My approach to determining when to sell a watch is anything but scientific. In fact, I don’t know that you’d say I have an “approach” at all. It’s governed primarily by the unfortunate financial reality that I can’t actually afford to own every watch I’d like to have in my collection, and the creeping anxiety of seeing watches unworn in the watch box, day after day, month after month, year after year. I don’t let it get to that point, however, for fear that I might completely and utterly lose my damn mind. The primary factor, though, that actually determines when I’ll list a watch for sale, is my own laziness. Whether it’s the fact that I work in the watch industry day in and day out, or the absolute hellscape that is r/watc...
Quill & Pad
It has always surprised Martin Green that mechanical movements running at a high frequency have never become more popular. Chopard joined this exclusive club in 2012 with the L.U.C 8HF and now releases a follow-up with the Alpine Eagle Cadence 8HF, which also boasts an 8 Hz escapement.
WatchAdvice
If you’re after an aviation styled watch, that can go from the beach to the boardroom, then the Bremont Fury may just be the watch for you! We wrist tested it for a couple of weeks, and here’s what we thought… What We Love The textured dialThe aviation stylingPower reserve indicator at 6 o’clock What We Don’t Lack of lume on the dialLack of character in the strapUnsure of what category of watch to fit it in Overall Rating: 8.5/10 Value for money: 8/10Wearability: 8.5/10Design: 8.5/10Build quality: 9/10 As you may know from previous articles we’ve written on Bremont and its founders, Giles and Nick English, you no doubt be aware of their love of aviation, and the reasons for starting up Bremont over 20 years ago. If not, then you can get brought up to speed in our interview with Giles here. So it’s no surprise that when they were designing their H1 series of watches with the Bremont assembled movement (the first for the brand) that one of these pieces had to be a pilots inspired watch. The Bremont Fury in blue – a modern take on the classic pilot’s watch. The Fury was that piece in both a blue and black colourway, designed to be a contemporary take on the classic aviation watch. I first saw this piece in person when I caught up with Giles back in April, and liked what I saw. So needless to say it was one of their pieces that I immediately wanted to put on my wrist to see how it wore and looked as I went about my day to day. When asked which colour I wanted...
Worn & Wound
The latest limited edition produced by Wei Koh and our friends at Revolution is a high concept variant of the Nomos Tangente Neomatik 41 Update that uses one of our favorite mathematical principles as a starting point. Longtime readers might recall Blake’s dive into the Rolex Explorer 124270, and pondered what the dimensions of that watch and their relationship to the Golden Ratio meant for comfort on the wrist. The so-called Golden Ratio is derived from dividing each number in the Fibonacci series by its predecessor, and the results, in an almost mystical way, seem to line up with natural phenomenon, like the way leaves, branches, and petals grow in a predictable spiral, and the shape of the shell of a snail. This new watch, dubbed “Resilience,” is so-named because the helix shape, a pattern linked to the Fibonacci sequence, is the symbol for resilience in nature, a concept that Revolution and Nomos were interested in exploring coming out of the Covid-19 pandemic. Before we get to the watch, a brief refresher/math lesson is required to get everyone up to speed on the Fibonacci numbers. This will be coming from someone with a liberal arts education, so please do feel free to check my work in the comments below, as I just barely passed introductory calculus. The easiest way to understand the Fibonacci sequence is to observe that they’re a set of numbers where the next digit is always the sum of the two digits immediately preceding it. Dividing any two successive F...
Time+Tide
When it comes to big watch fairs like Watches & Wonders Geneva, it’s often the brands that aren’t officially exhibiting at the show that have some of the most exciting releases. Step out of the frenetic hive of activity that is Palexpo and go exploring Geneva’s streets, hotels and bars and you’ll find all manner … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Bulgari Octo Roma Chronograph is the sportiest take on the sportiest Octo appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Worn & Wound
One of us! One of us! One of the first forays into watch enthusiasm is changing out the stock strap to something a little bit more your style. Sure, the OEM straps are fine, but there’s a whole world of aftermarket offerings that can totally switch up the look and feel of your watch. The best part? It’s quick and easy to do, and you only need a few key tools to get the job done right. Whether you’re popping your new dive watch off the bracelet and onto a nato, or switching over that field watch from the cheapy faux-leather strap to something more premium, swapping straps is a fun way to get even more out of your current collection of watches. This guide breaks down some of the essentials you’ll need to get started, so let’s jump in. One of us! One of us! One of the first forays into watch enthusiasm is changing out the stock strap to something a little bit more your style. Sure, the OEM straps are fine, but there’s a whole world of aftermarket offerings that can totally switch up the look and feel of your watch. The best part? It’s quick and easy to do, and you only need a few key tools to get the job done right. Whether you’re popping your new dive watch off the bracelet and onto a nato, or switching over that field watch from the cheapy faux-leather strap to something more premium, swapping straps is a fun way to get even more out of your current collection of watches. This guide breaks down some of the essentials you’ll need to get started, so let’s ...
Time+Tide
It may come as a bit of a surprise, but I often compare Rolex and Cartier due to a strong commonality. Yes, they are very different brands with very different products. But an element I believe they do share is a very key point. Watch enthusiasts often point out that Rolex practises incremental updates. The … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Cartier Santos Dumont Skeleton Micro-Rotor once again proves the brand is more than just a pretty face appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Editor’s note: In this 3 Watch Collection for $5,000, reader Chris Plant, aka @mister_wrist_er on Instagram, gives us a look at a trio of watches from his own collection that fit the $5,000 collection bill perfectly. These watches suit his lifestyle and needs, which you can read more about on his own blog, misterwrister.ca, where he documents his horological journey, including the three watches below. You can make your submission to the Three Watch Collection – Reader Edition by filling out the form right here. The three watches that I chose make up a perfectly balanced collection for me. I have the rugged, Swiss quartz dive watch that will never fail me even in the deepest depths, the deliciously vintage inspired dress watch for life’s more refined situations, and a steel sports watch that has the ideal mix of historical significance, robust capability and generational provenance. Tissot Seastar Chronograph 1000 (Ref. T120.417.17.041.00) – $550 View this post on Instagram A post shared by Mister Wrister (@mister_wrist_er) When I began building my watch collection, I needed to find a watch that would become my Go Anywhere Do Anything choice. I had several criteria in mind. Firstly, it needed to be a watch capable of keeping up with my lifestyle, whether it was running with my Pomsky puppy in the park, wandering across the busy streets of Montreal, or hiking on one of the numerous mountain trails outside city. Secondly, it had to be a dive watch. Strapping on...
Time+Tide
It’s that time of year where the Swiss typically go on holiday, which means there’s less news about fresh releases this week. Nonetheless, some big news was announced at Sotheby’s, when Geoff Hess was revealed as the esteemed auction house’s new Head of Watches for the Americas region. “It is my honour to take up … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: Geoff Hess joins Sotheby’s as Head of Watches for the Americas appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
If you’re a regular reader of this website, you know that from time to time I find myself inspired to write about the state of the watch collecting community. Like all of you, I’m just a normal guy, who sometimes decides that it’s time to send a watch to a new home, and it’s off to the forums I go, with terribly lit photos and hopes of a quick transaction that doesn’t end in some kind of postal fraud incident. In the years I’ve been doing this, I’m happy to say that I’ve had many great experiences selling watches to strangers. But lately…lately, eh, I dunno. It kind of feels like things are going off the rails a little bit, doesn’t it? I’ve sold a few watches in the last couple of months, and, with apologies to @vandelayhouseofhorology, I’ve never felt more like George Costanza in that Chinese restaurant, reminding his fellow patrons that we’re living in a society. We’re supposed to act in a civilized way! Maybe it’s just a run of bad luck, or perhaps karmic retribution for youthful indiscretions that have come back to bite me, but it seems like poor, sketchy, or downright inappropriate behavior is on the rise in the public watch trading forums. I’ve never been one to worry too much about getting scammed, or even having my time wasted, but in the current climate, it seems like you have your guard way, way up. Before I go any further, I’ll say at the outset that in spite of some, let’s call them troubling, experiences trying to sell a...
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Time+Tide
The Blancpain Ladybird Colors collection has been expanded with this rainbow gradient reference. It comes with five colours of alligator leather straps, so you can tone the playfulness up or down depending on your mood. The case is made from 18k white gold, and is set with 59 diamonds. When Blancpain released the Ladybird in … ContinuedThe post The new rainbow Blancpain Ladybird Colors offer a playful sense of glamour with a 100-hour power reserve appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The Norqain Neverest Glacier returns with two rocky-faced references. The 41mm GMT model and 40mm three-hand model are decorated with rose gold running through their cracked surfaces. 10% of the sales will go to the Butterfly Help Project, housing and educating the families of sherpas who died on Mount Everest. As a brand focused on … ContinuedThe post Norqain’s new Neverest Glacier models have charitable intentions appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Worn & Wound
In what is becoming an unlikely summer tradition Glashütte Original is back with a pair of chronographs in fun, 1970s inspired colors. For each of the last two years, the German brand has introduced limited edition versions of their excellent Seventies Chronograph Panorama Date, an integrated bracelet sports watch that you’d be forgiven for forgetting was in GO’s catalog given that the lion’s share of watch enthusiast attention is placed on the watches that make up the Pano collection. Their vintage inspired designs, however, tap into a completely different, funky aesthetic that the brand owns every bit as convincingly as the more formal watches under the Pano umbrella, and the annual release of colorful, limited edition chronos has become a highlight. While Glashütte Original has opted for loud and bright colors in past limited edition drops, this year they’ve gone for something a little more muted. The “Golden Bay” chronograph is in an unusual ochre shade, and appears as a somewhat dull golden tone. It vaguely resembles a dial that might have been exposed to weather and harsh sunlight for decades, which fits into the 70s vibe nicely. The “Ocean Breeze” variant is a more obviously seasonal shade of light blue, clearly inspired by summer beach getaways. Both variants have a matte lacquer finish, and are accented with black subdials for the chronograph. It’s worth noting here that the chronograph functionality in this reference is anything but run of...
SJX Watches
This debut of Barcelona-born artist Andre Martinez shows the full skill and creativity he has at his fingertips. Perhaps one of the industry’s most prolific hidden talents, Mr Martinez has been the go-to artist for miniature painting in acrylic for some three decades. His clients over the years have ranged from Bovet to Van Cleef & Arpels. Martinez is now launching his own brand, starting with five watches, and the option of unique commissions. Initial thoughts Mr Martinez’s speciality of miniature painting in acrylic is often regarded as being lesser than enamel. That, however, is an unjust assessment because his very best work is outstanding with a level of artistry is not often seen. Painting with a single hair and microscope, Mr Martinez can produce (or reproduce) works of art with incredible detail – but on a very, very small scale. In fact, the artistry is of a level that is nearly unmatched across the rest of the industry. You would need to turn to the likes of Anita Porchet to equal it, but even she works in a different medium. Having the luxury to customise the motif that appears on the dial is a great bonus, with no restriction on subject or composition. The only thing that will stay the same is the naturally occurring mother-of-pearl canvas. So in some ways, the appeal of the final result depends on the taste of the client. It is clear his work should be thought of as a piece of art first, and a watch second. While the quality of his painting is un...
Worn & Wound
Is it even summer if you go the whole thing without some cotton candy? If the sugary-sweet treat isn’t for you, then you can get your fix in watch form with this trio of cotton candy divers from Oris. Originally encased in bronze, this fun and colorful trio of Divers Sixty-Fives were certainly unique, but the patina-heavy cases may not have been for everyone. Not only does this new release of 38mm divers come in stainless steel, but it also makes the dial colors pop even more, since they’re the center of attention. Is it even summer if you go the whole thing without some cotton candy? If the sugary-sweet treat isn’t for you, then you can get your fix in watch form with this trio of cotton candy divers from Oris. Originally encased in bronze, this fun and colorful trio of Divers Sixty-Fives were certainly unique, but the patina-heavy cases may not have been for everyone. Not only does this new release of 38mm divers come in stainless steel, but it also makes the dial colors pop even more, since they’re the center of attention. The post Now in the Shop: A Trio of Oris Cotton Candy Flavors, Now in Steel appeared first on Worn & Wound.
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