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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.
Fratello Is Hiring: Staff Photographer In Our HQ In The Hague, Part Time Fratello
Jun 16, 2026

Fratello Is Hiring: Staff Photographer In Our HQ In The Hague, Part Time

We are once again looking to expand our team: Fratello’s reach continues to expand, and we’re growing our content creation capabilities to match the demands of an increasingly engaged global audience. If this sounds exciting to you, and you would like to join our growing team as a photographer on a three-day-per-week basis, read on […] Visit Fratello Is Hiring: Staff Photographer In Our HQ In The Hague, Part Time to read the full article.

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Introducing – The J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series Radiant Tantalum Monopusher Chronograph Monochrome
Jun 16, 2026

Introducing – The J.N. Shapiro Infinity Series Radiant Tantalum Monopusher Chronograph

In just a few years, J.N. Shapiro, initially a niche American independent focused on exceptional guilloché dials, has become one of the most ambitious names in contemporary American watchmaking.  Founder Josh Shapiro’s Resurgence project demonstrated that high-end mechanical horology can once again be produced in the United States, and the Infinity Series has allowed him […]

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Moonwatch Dials: The Most Expensive Book I’ve Ever Bought Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Jun 16, 2026

Moonwatch Dials: The Most Expensive Book I’ve Ever Bought

It’s no secret that I have a soft spot for the Omega Speedmaster, and over the years, I’ve collected several of them. But beyond the watches, I also find myself collecting Moonwatch-related items, such as old catalogs, pins, pens, boxes, and books. To date, the best book on the topic is Moonwatch Only. From the […] Visit Moonwatch Dials: The Most Expensive Book I’ve Ever Bought to read the full article.

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Watch Out, World: The New Timex Atelier Chronographs Are Really Good Fratello
Timex Atelier Chronographs Are Really Jun 16, 2026

Watch Out, World: The New Timex Atelier Chronographs Are Really Good

Just a couple of weeks ago, we were recording an episode of Fratello On Air when Balazs brought up the new Timex Atelier collection. Frankly, I had no idea what he was talking about, which is odd because I check out the brand’s website every so often. Lo and behold, when I did hit the […] Visit Watch Out, World: The New Timex Atelier Chronographs Are Really Good to read the full article.

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Introducing: The Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar Is Back Hodinkee
Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Twin Beat Perpetual Jun 16, 2026

Introducing: The Vacheron Constantin Traditionelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar Is Back

What We Know Vacheron just brought back its incredibly unique Traditionelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar, and it's a welcome sight for dedicated collectors of the brand, along with general enthusiasts of unexpected yet innovative takes on complicated watchmaking. If you're not familiar with the original Traditionelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar, launched back in 2019, the watch offered an incredibly novel solution to a problem often found within perpetual calendar watches. Let's be honest, though the entire appeal and genius of the perpetual calendar is for someone wearing one watch all day, every day, for the whole year, watches like these are most often owned by those with a large collection to begin with. A weekend for a perpetual calendar in a watch box or drawer would mean that the complication would need to be set again after winding, and so Vacheron introduced this perpetual calendar with a whopping 65-day power reserve. To achieve this, rather than putting in an unfeasibly large mainspring in the barrel, the Traditionelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar lives up to its name by offering a new system that allows for switching between two beat rates for the watch—a contemporary high-beat 5Hz frequency with a 4-day power reserve for normal timekeeping during wear, but a much slower 1.2Hz mode with that prolonged power reserve for the "Standby" phase. The Caliber 3610QP comprises two separate gear trains for the two regulating systems, with a series of differentials tha...

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First Look – A Smaller Case and Fresh Colours for the Powerful Tissot Seastar 2000 Professional Monochrome
Tissot Seastar 2000 Professional Since Jun 16, 2026

First Look – A Smaller Case and Fresh Colours for the Powerful Tissot Seastar 2000 Professional

Since its launch in 2021, the Seastar 2000 Professional has occupied an interesting spot in Tissot’s catalogue. For around EUR 1,000, it delivers a specification sheet that normally comes with more expensive dive watches: a helium escape valve, a ceramic insert bezel, 600m water-resistance, ISO 6425 certification, and a robust Swiss movement. In short, this […]

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Hands-On With The Farer Pilot Series II Curtis — A Fresh Take On The Pilot’s Watch Fratello
Farer Pilot Series II Curtis Jun 16, 2026

Hands-On With The Farer Pilot Series II Curtis — A Fresh Take On The Pilot’s Watch

When I think of Farer, I don’t necessarily associate the brand with pilot’s watches. Moreover, I don’t link it to any particular watch category at all, even though I’ve previously reviewed a couple of iterations of the Farer World Timer. Instead, the brand is best recognized for its compelling use of color. That said, the […] Visit Hands-On With The Farer Pilot Series II Curtis — A Fresh Take On The Pilot’s Watch to read the full article.

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Insight: A Look At The Fusee and Chain SJX Watches
Ming from Jun 16, 2026

Insight: A Look At The Fusee and Chain

The fusee and chain system is one of those terms in high horology parlance that instantly elevates the status of a given watch. And yet few appreciate the elegance and subtle complexities of this horological contraption that surprisingly predates the invention of the hairspring itself. The need for constant torque A high-performance oscillating system requires a somewhat constant power source in order to keep it swinging consistently. This issue relates to isochronism and the insufficiencies of real-world oscillators. For a watch, this means that its precision is, to a degree, dependent on how constant the torque reaching the escapement is. This is not as easy as one might think. The mainspring stores potential energy in its wound coils, which it then slowly feeds into the gear train as the barrel unwinds. Because of how the system is built, and due to physics-related constraints, the power coming from the mainspring barrel is all but constant. Ideally, the torque would be linearly decreasing — meaning that the slope of the barrel torque is directly proportional to the arming angle. Coiled mainspring inside a barrel. When a mainspring barrel is fully wound, the torque it feeds into the going train is maximal, sometimes causing the balance wheel to swing too wide and over-bank. As the mainspring unwinds, the torque stabilises to a steadily declining rate. But as the movement enters its last hours of power reserve, the torque from the barrel decreases considerably and more...

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Hands-On With The Versatile And Thoroughly Modern Charlie Paris Alliance Fratello
Jun 15, 2026

Hands-On With The Versatile And Thoroughly Modern Charlie Paris Alliance

Charlie Paris has been designing and assembling accessible watches since 2014. The Alliance line represents the French indie brand’s take on a go-anywhere, do-anything (GADA) model. I got a chance to go hands-on with the Charlie Paris Alliance in two versions. This is how we got along. The Charlie Paris Alliance features a sunburst dial. […] Visit Hands-On With The Versatile And Thoroughly Modern Charlie Paris Alliance to read the full article.

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Introducing: The Angelus Instrument de Mesures – Three Vintage-Inspired Scales, Modernized Hodinkee
Angelus Instrument de Mesures – Jun 15, 2026

Introducing: The Angelus Instrument de Mesures – Three Vintage-Inspired Scales, Modernized

What We Know Angelus is bringing back one of my favorite traditional chronograph designs with the new multi-scale Instrument de Mesures. The new version of their 2025 GPHG Chronograph award-winning monopusher features three scales for telemeter, tachymeter, and pulsometer, and comes in a black or white dial, harkening back to early 1930s and 1940s chronograph designs where chronographs were pure utility. Powered by the manually-wound A5000 movement, a version of a La Joux-Perret 5000-4 (a movement manufacturer which is under the same ownership umbrella as Angelus), the watch measures 39mm by 9.25mm with a stainless steel case and display caseback, a single co-axial crown pusher for the chronograph, and 30m of water resistance. The movement has a 42-hour power reserve and runs at 3Hz. If the movement architecture looks familiar, LJP owns the rights to the famous THA monopusher movement.  The telemeter scale allows you to calculate distance by measuring the time between when you observe something and when you hear it. The tachymeter, of course, allows you to measure speed over a distance. And the pulsometer allows you to check your heart rate. Combining all three can be a mess of a thing, but long ago, the watch world settled on this beautiful stacked set of scales with a snailed, swirling effect. The watch also features lume at the hour markers, hidden in the three scales.  The new Angelus Instrument de Mesures is limited to 25 pieces in each dial version and retails for ...

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“La Pilota” – A New Tudor Film Tells the Story Of A Record-Setting Aviator and Her Watches Hodinkee
Tudor Film Tells Jun 15, 2026

“La Pilota” – A New Tudor Film Tells the Story Of A Record-Setting Aviator and Her Watches

In Greek mythology, there is the well-known story of Icarus, a heady youth whose lofty aspirations send him flying on homemade wings of feathers and wax. In its cautionary denouement, Icarus flies too high and gets too close to the sun, melting the wax, sending him crashing back to Earth. If Carina Massone Negrone knew the story of Icarus, she would also likely have known that the greater the altitude, the danger is not the sun's heat but extreme cold and a lack of oxygen. And yet, in 1935, the Italian aviator set an altitude record in an open-cockpit piston-powered airplane that remains unbroken to this day. Tudor has just debuted a short documentary film about Negrone, called "La Pilota: The Daring Story of Marchesa Carina Massone Negrone", which covers the flying pioneer's remarkable life and the watches—Tudors, of course—that she wore. Carina Massone Negrone was a "marchesa," a noblewoman by her marriage to a marquise, and could have enjoyed a life of ease in her palazzo in Genova. But her adventurous spirit compelled her to pursue activities that might have seemed "unladylike" in 1930s Italy. She was an avid swimmer and skier and fished the Mediterranean for sharks. And in 1933, at the age of 22, she took flying lessons from an Italian fighter pilot and became the first woman to get her pilot's license from the Reale Unione Nazionale Aeronautica. Only a year later, she set an altitude record for a seaplane by flying to 5,544 meters. But she wasn't done yet—far f...

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The Inaugural Buying Time Auction is Officially Open with Proceeds Going to a Worthy Cause Worn & Wound
Ming Jun 15, 2026

The Inaugural Buying Time Auction is Officially Open with Proceeds Going to a Worthy Cause

In 2017, Simon Jeffs, an aero-mechanical engineer, founded Brooklands Watch Company with the help of his son Michael. The inspiration for the brand came from the historic track where British motorsport was born and the world’s first motor racing chronograph was invented in 1907 along with the father-son duo’s mutual love of timepieces. Five years after its founding, Michael tragically passed away from cancer at the incredibly young age of 28. Two years following his death – the year Michael would have turned 30 – his mother, Sandra, launched the 30 for 30 campaign, aiming to raise £30,000 in his memory for charities that had helped them during Michael’s illness. The response was extraordinary, and they went on to raise £132,642. This generosity gave Michael’s family the confidence to think beyond a single year of fundraising and to create a long-term legacy in his honor, which led them to establish the Buying Time auction opening today and running for one month until July 14. The auction is made possible in partnership with the Alliance of British Watch and Clock Makers, who embraced the idea of creating a charitable foundation supported by the watch community. Each of the watches up for sale is brand new, unworn, and generously donated by the brand, maker, or authorized partner exclusively for this auction. Every pound raised will go directly to the organizations’ partner charities, whose applications are reviewed quarterly to ensure every grant is thought...

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Hands-On: The New Doxa Sub 200 T.Graph II — An Iconic Dive Chronograph Returns Fratello
Doxa Sub 200 T.Graph II Jun 15, 2026

Hands-On: The New Doxa Sub 200 T.Graph II — An Iconic Dive Chronograph Returns

Few brands wear their history as comfortably as Doxa. While many heritage-driven watch companies seem trapped in endless cycles of archival recreation, Doxa has spent the better part of the last decade refining a formula that already worked. That consistency is precisely why the debut of the Doxa Sub 200 T.Graph II matters. The modern […] Visit Hands-On: The New Doxa Sub 200 T.Graph II — An Iconic Dive Chronograph Returns to read the full article.

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Introducing: The Doxa Sub 200 T-Graph II Hodinkee
Doxa Sub 200 T-Graph II Jun 15, 2026

Introducing: The Doxa Sub 200 T-Graph II

What We Know Just in time for the hot and humid summer ahead, Doxa has just unveiled a new generation of its distinctive, cushion-cased dive-watch-slash-chronograph with the new Sub 200 T.Graph II. The best part? It's no longer a limited edition, but rather a permanent offering for the brand. Oh, and thankfully, it's priced less than that previous 300-piece LE. At a quick glance, nothing seems to have changed on Doxa's tribute to its 1969 design, and you'd be sort of correct. The dial layout, with two subdials at 3 and 9 o'clock, along with an oversized arrowhead chronograph seconds hand, remains the same in this new generation. But the main changes here are sure to make almost everyone happy: a slight reduction in diameter and case thickness. While the previous Sub 200 T.Graph measured at 43mm in diameter with a thickness of 15.15mm, the steel case on the Sub 200 T.Graph II measures 42mm in diameter and 14.6mm in thickness.  Rather than the new old stock Valjoux 7734 chronograph caliber that the limited edition housed, this new T.Graph II uses a contemporary automatic Sellita SW510 chronograph caliber, with a slightly higher 56-hour power reserve and a much higher beat rate of 28,800 VpH. New to the Sub 200 T.Graph II is also another dial color, Caribbean (Doxa's name for blue), which is a familiar livery within the brand's other models but never before offered on a T.Graph. The dark, slightly dusty navy dial joins the three other colorways found in the original design: ...

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Introducing – The New ArtyA Purity Tourbillon Sport Editions Monochrome
Jun 15, 2026

Introducing – The New ArtyA Purity Tourbillon Sport Editions

Artya is known for not shying away from creativity, boldness and boundary-pushing designs, and proves this once more with its latest release. Following earlier models like the Purity Tourbillon, Purity Stairway to Heaven and Purity Central Tourbillon housed in the brand’s signature sapphire cases, the Geneva-based manufacture now introduces the Purity Tourbillon Sport Edition, a limited […]

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Fratello Favorites: The Best Summer Watches — RJ’s Five Perfect Picks From Hamilton, Sinn, Omega, Rolex, And Piaget Fratello
Hamilton Sinn Omega Rolex Jun 15, 2026

Fratello Favorites: The Best Summer Watches — RJ’s Five Perfect Picks From Hamilton, Sinn, Omega, Rolex, And Piaget

Last week, Lex started our series of articles on the best summer watches. Each of us will pick five of our favorite watches for the summer, ranging from under €1,000 to no budget. Today, it’s my turn, and I’ve made a selection of new and pre-owned watches. Five summer watches for different budgets Summer is […] Visit Fratello Favorites: The Best Summer Watches — RJ’s Five Perfect Picks From Hamilton, Sinn, Omega, Rolex, And Piaget to read the full article.

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Value In Vintage: IWC “Calatravas” From The 1950s And ’60s Fratello
Vacheron Constantin yet many overlook Jun 14, 2026

Value In Vintage: IWC “Calatravas” From The 1950s And ’60s

IWC truly does have something for everyone. There is a curious blind spot in the vintage-watch market. Collectors will happily spend five figures on a mid-century dress watch from Patek Philippe or Vacheron Constantin, yet many overlook the quietly brilliant dress watches produced by IWC Schaffhausen during the ’50s and ’60s. That oversight is precisely what […] Visit Value In Vintage: IWC “Calatravas” From The 1950s And ’60s to read the full article.

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Hands-on – The Revival of a Charming Chimer with the Angelus Tinkler 1958 Quarter Repeater Monochrome
Angelus Tinkler 1958 Quarter Repeater Jun 13, 2026

Hands-on – The Revival of a Charming Chimer with the Angelus Tinkler 1958 Quarter Repeater

Unveiled by Angelus at Watches & Wonders 2026, the Tinkler 1958 Quarter Repeater is a re-edition of the brand’s pioneering mid-century automatic, waterproof quarter repeater wristwatch, which was already a rarity in its day. Engaging sight, sound and touch, we’re going hands-on with the more luxurious, 15-piece limited edition of this charming chiming revival piece […]

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Watches, Stories, & Gear: Hamilton Goes on the Road, the Social Reckoning Trailer, and a New Kerchief from GiantMouse and Cantonement Worn & Wound
Hamilton Goes Jun 13, 2026

Watches, Stories, & Gear: Hamilton Goes on the Road, the Social Reckoning Trailer, and a New Kerchief from GiantMouse and Cantonement

“Watches, Stories, and Gear” is a roundup of our favorite content, watch or otherwise, from around the internet. Here, we support other creators, explore interesting content that inspires us, and put a spotlight on causes we believe in. Oh, and any gear we happen to be digging on this week. We love gear. Hamilton 250th Anniversary Road Show Hamilton is undoubtedly proud of its American roots and has planned a whistle-stop tour of sorts to celebrate the United States’ 250th anniversary. Deemed The America 250 Roadshow, this multi-city activation is now underway with the first stop of the tour in Charleston, South Carolina before moving along to New York, then Washington D.C., before finally ending in Boston just in time for July 4th. During these events, attendees will be able to explore Hamilton’s collection of watches, learn more about the brand’s history, and take part in events co-hosted with local establishments. Of course, with an anniversary this big, Hamilton couldn’t pass up the chance to mark the occasion with something special. During the roadshow, visitors will also have access to the exclusive-edition America 250 Khaki Field Mechanical, a commemorative release available only during the 2026 semiquincentennial (isn’t that such a good trivia word?). The watch takes its cues from the military field watches that helped establish Hamilton’s reputation for precision and reliability, making it a fitting tribute to both the brand – and the nation’s ...

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The Hanhart 417 TI Desert Pilot Chronographs Offer A Fresh Take On The Brand’s Icon Fratello
Jun 13, 2026

The Hanhart 417 TI Desert Pilot Chronographs Offer A Fresh Take On The Brand’s Icon

If you were to ask me for a list of cool chronographs, the Hanhart 417 ES would definitely be on it. Of course, the fact that Steve McQueen famously wore one adds tremendously to the cool factor. But a single glance at the 417 ES will tell you it fits the bill, regardless of whether […] Visit The Hanhart 417 TI Desert Pilot Chronographs Offer A Fresh Take On The Brand’s Icon to read the full article.

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