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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

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The Dirty Dozen Watches As Interpreted By Half A Dozen Affordable Microbrands Fratello
Audemars Piguet Dec 29, 2024

The Dirty Dozen Watches As Interpreted By Half A Dozen Affordable Microbrands

We often hear statements like, “This watch is a true classic,” or “This is a timeless design.” Typically, such statements refer to big names in the watch industry, such as Rolex and the Submariner, Omega and the Speedmaster, or Audemars Piguet and the Royal Oak. That’s either because their designs are simple and indeed timeless […] Visit The Dirty Dozen Watches As Interpreted By Half A Dozen Affordable Microbrands to read the full article.

The Dirty Dozen: History’s Most Legendary Field Watches Teddy Baldassarre
Oct 7, 2022

The Dirty Dozen: History’s Most Legendary Field Watches

When it comes to collectible vintage military watches, there are the famed “Dirty Dozen” and then there is everything else. Twelve field watches from twelve different Swiss watchmakers, all made within the last two years of World War II and issued to British servicemen, the Dirty Dozen watches represent a rare confluence between horological and military history, while also claiming a coveted spot in the annals of war memorabilia. What brands and watches make up the Dirty Dozen, what is their story, and why are they so legendary today? Read on. Wristwatches came into general usage for men during World War I. While pocket watches were still in vogue for social situations, they proved impractical for troops on the battlefield, who needed the use of both hands in combat situations, such as for loading one’s rifle while simultaneously checking his watch to determine the distance of incoming artillery fire. Watchmakers at the time responded to the demands of warfare in a rather makeshift way at first, re-engineering pocket watch cases with soldered strips of wire to connect them to straps of leather or canvas for wrist wear. While these “trench watches” were effective at the time, advances in military equipment, technology, and strategies in subsequent years necessitated a more purposeful approach to watchmaking as a Second World War erupted in Europe, barely two decades after the end of the so-called War to End all Wars. According to some historical accounts, it was ...

Which of the Dirty Dozen survive today? Time+Tide
Jul 3, 2019

Which of the Dirty Dozen survive today?

The “Dirty Dozen” are watches produced by the 12 British Ministry of Defence contractors during World War II who were tasked with strapping watches to the wrists of allied forces. While some of the brands are bigger and better than ever before, a few have slid into relative obscurity or the books of insolvency firms. … ContinuedThe post Which of the Dirty Dozen survive today? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Certina Watches Review: History and Highlights from the Modern Collect Teddy Baldassarre
Certina Mar 10, 2025

Certina Watches Review: History and Highlights from the Modern Collect

Certina is a watch brand that may be fairly new to you, especially if you live in the United States, where distribution has been limited to non-existent over the past several decades. In actuality, however, Certina is among the oldest Swiss watch brands currently in operation and today represents an appealing and perhaps underrated option in the arena of stylish sports watches that are solidly built yet priced affordably. The Kurth Brothers, Grana, and the Dirty Dozen Certina has its origins in 1888, when two Swiss brothers, Adolf and Alfred Kurth, set up a watchmaking workshop in an annex to their family home in the town of Grenchen (above). Initially, the brothers made movements and parts that they supplied to other watch companies in the region, but by 1906 they were making enough of their own complete timepieces that they introduced a brand name: Grana, which was a shortened version of the Latin word “Granatus,” referring to Grenchen. The early Grana watches found success, but for several years the Kurth brothers continued to also make and supply movements to other companies; the name “Certina” - another Latin-derived word, from “certus,” for “sure” or “certain” - began appearing on the company’s timepieces throughout the 1930s. The name, which was also easier to pronounce than “Grana” in more languages, was registered in 1933 and eventually became the company’s sole name in 1949.  Few Grana watches are remembered as milestones today, i...

Tuul Launches the Filthy 13, a New Take on the Classic Military Spec Tool Watch Worn & Wound
May 6, 2024

Tuul Launches the Filthy 13, a New Take on the Classic Military Spec Tool Watch

It’s always fun when we get to introduce you to a new entrant in the micro-brand tool watch space, and today is no exception. Tuul (pronounced tool) is a brand new Brooklyn-based micro-brand with a focus on - you guessed it - tool watches. If you spend too much time on Instagram (who am I kidding, we all do), you may have seen teasers for their first watch peppered through your feed over the last year. Now, with the introduction of the Filthy 13, we’re finally getting to see what a Tuul watch looks like. For a new brand building their first watch, it is almost always the right choice to go simple. Making a watch is hard, making a good watch even harder, and overcomplicating the process can easily turn the whole thing into a jumbled mess. Besides, tool watches should be simple and straightforward, ready to do their job and not much else. So it’s no big surprise that Tuul has fallen back on a familiar source of inspiration for their first release - the Dirty Dozen watches issued by the MoD to British troops during World War II, which is in many ways the prototypical tool watch. The Filthy 13 follows closely in the footsteps of the Dirty Dozen Watch, Wrist Waterproof spec and carried over the familiar dial layout with central hour and minute hands, small seconds at six o’clock, large Arabic numerals, a railroad minute track, and an abundance of lume. The Filthy 13 swaps the radioactive paint used on the original dials for Super-Luminova, which here has a slightl...

Timor Launches a Contemporary Take on their Classic “Dirty Dozen” Watch Worn & Wound
Oct 10, 2023

Timor Launches a Contemporary Take on their Classic “Dirty Dozen” Watch

Field watches, as Zach alluded to earlier this week, are, in some sense, the best kind of watch. Free from extraneous moving parts or features, field watches are designed to do what watches do – tell time legibly and not break. At no point was this more necessary than during World War II when Britain’s Ministry of Defense issued a request for durable watches under the specification “WWW”: wrist, watch, waterproof. One of the famous 12 companies (AKA the Dirty Dozen) that answered the call was the Timor Watch Company. The rest, as they say, is history, and eight decades later we have the modern successor to the Timor WWW. Let’s get the specs out of the way: The new Modern Field 100M’s case is PVD-coated 316L steel for maximum stealth, and the domed crystal is also treated to combat glare. Timor has elected to preserve the watch’s historic 36.5mm size while keeping the remaining dimensions very reasonable: 12mm thick, 45.5mm lug to lug (18mm lug width), and 94 grams on the seat belt nylon strap. Inside is a modified Sellita SW260 movement. Water resistance is 100 meters, which Timor considers perfect “in rain, river, or during a rigorous workout.” The dial of the Modern Field 100M is what you would expect from a no-nonsense watch: Large Arabic hour markers paired with their 24-hour equivalents. Along the chapter ring is a smaller scale of 5-minute increments. Simple pencil hour and minute hands, carried over from the original Timor Dirty Dozen, make time-te...

A Picture of Good Stealth: Luminox Unveils the Master Carbon SEAL Automatic Worn & Wound
Luminox Apr 6, 2023

A Picture of Good Stealth: Luminox Unveils the Master Carbon SEAL Automatic

When it comes to military watches, my mind draws a bold red line between two distinct types. First, there’s the batch that originates from the vintage kin. You know, the Dirty Dozen field watch, the stoic flieger, and of course the quintessential stainless steel diver. Then there’s the modern and robust digital watch equipped with the innovative case material and a slew of multi-functions that you’d need more than two hands to count. But the happy medium between the two has always been within Luminox, a brand that has fostered and maintained a partnership with the U.S. Navy SEALs for three decades and counting. The latest addition to the Navy SEAL Luminox collection blends together a new case material and their patented Luminox Light Technology, while still keeping the spirit of analog time – it’s called the Master Carbon SEAL Automatic inspired by the Frogmen’s grind, grit, and durability. The Master Carbon SEAL Automatic utilizes a lightweight and rugged case made out of CARBONOX+. This forward-looking material boasts ultra-strong and weatherproof properties that in weight, equates to three times lighter than titanium. The unique feature that comes along with the “+” in the CARBONOX+ name is its stealthy gray tint which also displays the fingerprint-esque carbon fiber pattern that is individual to each watch. Except with the Master Carbon SEAL Automatic, the carbon fiber execution is much more subtle, displaying less of the white swirls we’ve seen in ot...

What Sealed The Deal – James’ Vertex MP45 chronograph Time+Tide
Vertex Dec 4, 2019

What Sealed The Deal – James’ Vertex MP45 chronograph

Vertex is a brand with a wonderful history. Founded in 1916 by Claude Lyons, the brand produced watches for Allied troops in the Second World War, following the specifications of the British Ministry of Defence, alongside 11 other brands (a group of manufacturers now known by collectors as the Dirty Dozen). The brand continued to … ContinuedThe post What Sealed The Deal – James’ Vertex MP45 chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

RECOMMENDED WATCHING: Tyson Fury can’t go without his Rolex Day-Date 40 Time+Tide
Rolex Day-Date 40 Tyson “The Feb 23, 2020

RECOMMENDED WATCHING: Tyson Fury can’t go without his Rolex Day-Date 40

Tyson “The Gypsy King” Fury is an interesting man … to say the least. And, as of last night, the Brit is once again the boxing Heavyweight Champion of the World, dominating Deontay Wilder for seven rounds before finishing the American with a ruthless onslaught that left Wilder’s corner with no choice but to throw … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED WATCHING: Tyson Fury can’t go without his Rolex Day-Date 40 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Hands-On With The New Praesidus DD-45 - How Aged Do You Want Your Dirty Dozen? Fratello
Mar 5, 2024

Hands-On With The New Praesidus DD-45 - How Aged Do You Want Your Dirty Dozen?

Praesidus is one of the go-to names if you are looking for a vintage-inspired military watch. In a relatively short time, the brand has created a reputation for recreating some of the best military watches accompanied by great stories. Now Praesidus is ready to launch another new series of watches. The Praesidus DD-45 is inspired […] Visit Hands-On With The New Praesidus DD-45 - How Aged Do You Want Your Dirty Dozen? to read the full article.

Now in the Shop: Three Small Mother of Pearl Aquis from Oris Worn & Wound
Oris The Aquis is Oris’ vision Aug 20, 2023

Now in the Shop: Three Small Mother of Pearl Aquis from Oris

The Aquis is Oris’ vision of what a modern dive watch should be. WIth its sleek and functional design and stainless steel case, the Aquis is a staple in their lineup. Until now, the Aquis has clocked in at a bold 43.5mm in diameter. The integrated bracelet / strap design made this size challenging to wear for smaller wrists, but worry no more. Brand new from the brand is a trio of Aquis timepieces in a manageable 36.5mm case diameter. Let’s take a closer look at what makes these new offerings from the brand so exciting. The Aquis is Oris’ vision of what a modern dive watch should be. WIth its sleek and functional design and stainless steel case, the Aquis is a staple in their lineup. Until now, the Aquis has clocked in at a bold 43.5mm in diameter. The integrated bracelet / strap design made this size challenging to wear for smaller wrists, but worry no more. Brand new from the brand is a trio of Aquis timepieces in a manageable 36.5mm case diameter. Let’s take a closer look at what makes these new offerings from the brand so exciting. The post Now in the Shop: Three Small Mother of Pearl Aquis from Oris appeared first on Worn & Wound.

Havid Nagan Debuts with the Clean and Geometric HN00 SJX Watches
Patek Philippe  The dimensions Feb 9, 2022

Havid Nagan Debuts with the Clean and Geometric HN00

After two years of development, Havid Nagan has finally made its debut with the HN00 Titanium. An unusually well-honed design for the inaugural watch of a brand that originated on Kickstarter, the HN00 combines an original case with an attractive guilloche dial, as well as a respectable micro-rotor movement. The genesis of Havid Nagan lay in its founder Aren Bazerkanian’s goal of producing a relatively accessible watch that incorporates elements typically found in pricier timepieces. So Mr Bazerkanian launched a modest Kickstarter campaign in 2019 to fund the prototyping process. Initial thoughts The HN00 is notable for managing a fairly original design that contains thoughtful details. Most impressive is the barleycorn guilloche dial covered in glossy, lacquer that mimics enamel. While the pattern is common, the HN00 dial is especially fine, especially around the centre of the dial where the grain converges and diminishes in size. Importantly, the dial has done away with superfluous elements such as a date or seconds hand, which presents the guilloche in all its glory. Even with the proliferation of the cushion-shaped case, the squarish case of the HN00 stands on its own. It avoids calling to mind watches from the likes of Panerai or Patek Philippe. The dimensions of the case are restrained, though it does feel a bit on the thick because neither the bezel nor the case back are sloped, while the case middle is tall, resulting in substantial verticality. At US$8...

Introducing – Poetry in motion with the Patek Philippe 5249R-001 “The Fox and the Crow” Automaton Monochrome
Patek Philippe 5249R-001 “The Fox Apr 13, 2026

Introducing – Poetry in motion with the Patek Philippe 5249R-001 “The Fox and the Crow” Automaton

With the Reference 5249R-001 “The Fox and the Crow”, Patek Philippe presents the first automaton of its modern history. Showcasing rare handcrafts and displaying the hours and minutes on demand, this poetic wristwatch is the reinterpretation of one of the treasures of the Patek Philippe Museum, a pocket watch from 1958. At the press of […]

Book Review – The Book of Rolex, Accessible Knowledge about “The Crown” for Everyday Watch Fans Monochrome
Rolex Accessible Knowledge about “The Nov 2, 2025

Book Review – The Book of Rolex, Accessible Knowledge about “The Crown” for Everyday Watch Fans

With well over a century of watchmaking from the day the brand was founded until today, the world of Rolex can be a daunting one. As the most prolific and widely known brand, and with countless references, generations and innovations coming from the Swiss manufacture, it’s understandable some might get absolutely lost in the details. […]

Vacheron Constantin Brings “The Quest” Exhibition to Singapore SJX Watches
Vacheron Constantin Brings “The Quest” Exhibition Oct 14, 2025

Vacheron Constantin Brings “The Quest” Exhibition to Singapore

As part of a world tour to mark Vacheron Constantin’s ongoing 270th anniversary, The Quest: 270 Years of Seeking Excellence lands in Singapore from October 25 to 26, 2025. After stops in Geneva, Tokyo, Hong Kong, Shanghai, and Abu Dhabi, the event will take place at Parkview Square and will be open to the public. The exhibition showcases the brand’s legacy through thematic chapters, featuring both historic timepieces and artifacts as well as an exploration of métiers d’art techniques like guilloché, which are a specialty of the brand. There will also be an immersive astronomical installation that invites guests to reflect on their own passage through time. A highlight of the exhibition is a special tribute to The Berkley Grand Complication, which remains the world’s most complicated mechanical watch, and the only Chinese perpetual calendar. The watch itself will not be present – the owner is an American – but a special display will provide a look inside the masterpiece. The Quest: 270 Years of Seeking Excellence takes place over the weekend of October 25-26. Admission is free but attendees are encouraged to register online in advance to reserve their preferred time slot. Parkview Square600 North Bridge Road, 3rd FloorSingapore 188778