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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Lesser-Known Dive Watches With Heritage - Featuring Certina, Zenith, Aquastar, And More Fratello
Certina Zenith Aquastar Jun 28, 2025

Lesser-Known Dive Watches With Heritage - Featuring Certina, Zenith, Aquastar, And More

Dive watches are what got me into this hobby. As the proud owner of a Tudor Black Bay 58, I can appreciate as much as anyone the appeal of a good, solid dive watch. Such a timepiece is a good starting point for those just getting into the watch hobby. Why? Well, that’s because it […] Visit Lesser-Known Dive Watches With Heritage - Featuring Certina, Zenith, Aquastar, And More to read the full article.

Andersen Genève Marks Anniversary with Communication 45 World Time SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Jun 27, 2025

Andersen Genève Marks Anniversary with Communication 45 World Time

Twenty twenty-five marks Andersen Genève’s 45th anniversary, although founder Svend Andersen’s career as an independent watchmaker has spanned far more than 45 years. For the anniversary, the brand has revived the Communication 45, the tenth world timer wristwatch in its catalogue since Andersen Genève was established in 1990.  Initial thoughts Danish horologist Svend Andersen is an important name in independent watchmaking. The 83-year-old was one of the founders of the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants AHCI, along with Vincent Calabrese. One of the earliest models he introduced after setting up his brand was a world time wristwatch – powered by a mechanism of his own design – that was inspired by his tenure working at Patek Philippe. Appropriately the brand is marking its anniversary with the very same complication. The new Communication 45 (left) and its predecessor from 1990 With the Communication 45, Andersen Genève seeks to reinvent its original world timer, without being disruptive. The new model sports a refined case with prominent teardrop lugs and a textured dial in cognac-shaded Blue Gold. Notably, the case employs two peculiar crowns that are flush with the case band, a design which seeks to preserve the symmetry of the case - although it all ends up looking slightly odd. The dial is well made and evokes the stylistic lavishness of 1990s luxury watchmaking, yet there is one element that doesn’t fit: the hands. Executed in the sha...

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox Review Teddy Baldassarre
TAG Heuer Jun 26, 2025

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph Glassbox Review

The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph “Glassbox” was released back in 2023 and has since been regarded as one of the finest vintage reinterpretations on the market. This mostly for two reasons, the first simply being that it was not a limited edition unlike every iteration dating back to when the line was introduced all the way back in 2015 with the Calibre 18 Telemeter. Second, they nailed the case proportions as well as the irresistibly charming domed sapphire crystal aka ‘Glassbox’. The original Heuer Carrera was the debuted back in 1963 as the brainchild of none other than Jack Heuer. Since then TAG Heuer has become one of the quintessential “chronograph brands” out there but it was the 2023 release of the Carrera Chronograph“Glassbox” that felt like a full-circle moment. The vintage-inspired design and 39mm case size coupled with contemporary finishing and manufacturing capabilities makes for one of the best chronographs on the market. TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph "Glassbox" Case The case size here is near-universally praised due to the nice and wearable proportions that balance that old school chronograph aesthetic with modern finishing techniques. Measuring 39mm wide and 13.86 mm thick with a 45.7mm lug-to-lug measurement (with 100 m of water resistance), the Glassbox is a compact package that makes a pretty strong statement. Sure, the original was 36mm and while I believe a re-edition in that case size would be a hit amongst a small enthusiast base (pe...

Breguet Unveils First-Ever Flying Tourbillon with Tourbillon Sidéral 7255 SJX Watches
Breguet Unveils First-Ever Flying Tourbillon Jun 26, 2025

Breguet Unveils First-Ever Flying Tourbillon with Tourbillon Sidéral 7255

Breguet celebrates a milestone by looking to the stars with the Classique Tourbillon Sidéral 7255, which is the brand’s first flying tourbillon and also dressed up with an aventurine enamel dial. The Tourbillon Sidéral is the brand’s latest anniversary edition – and the most complicated so far – coming after the Classique Souscription and more recent Type XX 2075BH. Initial Thoughts Abraham-Louis Breguet’s workshop only built between 40 to 49 tourbillons in his lifetime, explaining the mythical rarity of the mechanism in historical watchmaking. Now more tourbillons are built in a single day – possibly even by a single brand – than during Breguet’s entire lifetime. Consequently, the tourbillon is no longer regarded with the reverence it enjoyed for centuries. Tourbillons aren’t inherently special today, but still have appeal when executed well; the whole of the parts can be more than the sum of the parts. The Tourbillon Sidéral is executed well and appealing. Flying tourbillon aside, the rest of the watch is very good, though not ground breaking. As with Breguet’s other 250th anniversary models, the Tourbillon Sidéral is more interesting aesthetically than technically since the movement is derived from the longstanding Lemania calibre. That approach will change as the year’s end approaches as Breguet has something bigger in the pipeline. For now, the Tourbillon Sidéral is an excellent watch that may suffer under the weight of expectations, but per...

Rolex Explorer 36mm 124270 Review Teddy Baldassarre
Rolex Jun 26, 2025

Rolex Explorer 36mm 124270 Review

The story of the Rolex Explorer 36 124270 began at Watches & Wonders 2021, which represented an important anniversary for Rolex in marking 50 years of the Explorer II, and expectations were high on what we might see the brand do with the collection. Contrary to some of the wilder predictions, Rolex played things relatively conservatively, bringing the new 3285 movement into the line while retaining the model's 42mm case. Ironically, a reversion to classic proportions did come, but it would be in the Explorer collection and a new Reference 124270, which moved back to a 36mm case size for the first time since the 39mm 214270 was introduced in 2010. This was seen as a very un-Rolex move at the time, but today, more than three years later, it’s a watch that makes a lot of sense, not just on its own, but for Rolex as a brand. The Rolex Explorer 36mm next to the older 39mm Rolex is a brand that generally moves in one direction and, until relatively recently, doesn’t go out of its way to acknowledge its past in any overt way. While Rolex still isn’t making throwback or vintage-inspired watches, the company has taken a slightly different approach in embracing its historic design DNA while transitioning its full range to the 32xx series of movements. Examples of this include the current generation of the Submariner, which has gone back to a thinner, more traditional lug; the Sea-Dweller Reference 126600, which uses a bit of red text on the bottom of the dial; and the most ove...

[VIDEO] Five Fun Casios Under $50 Worn & Wound
Casio s Under $50 One Jun 26, 2025

[VIDEO] Five Fun Casios Under $50

One look into the catalog of Casio and you’ll notice no shortage of fun and functional digital watches (and also digital pianos, calculators, and medical devices if that’s your thing). Besides maybe the dermatological imaging devices, Casio’s catalog has a lot of different products and the main theme running throughout is their playful nature and quirky features. I appreciate the fact that Casio looks to solve problems (like knowing when to fish, what the tides are, and what time it is in other locales) with interesting and unique displays. Sure, a lot of this can be done by wearing an Apple Watch, but to me, these purpose-built devices just have so much more character than the now ubiquitous Apple Watch. Another cool thing about them is the focus on value and affordability that make adding a Casio (or five) to your collection a great way to bring some fun back into watches.  Today, we’re taking a look at five watches from Casio, each with their own fun feature sets that clock in at under fifty bucks a piece. Sure, they might not have the catchiest model names, but either way - let’s dig in. Casio Pop LF20W-8A Standout Features: Fun animations in a bio-based resin case. Casio’s Pop LF20W-8A features a bio-based resin case and plenty of features. Between the renewable case material and multi-year battery life, this economical and ecological watch is perfect for slapping on your wrist with minimal impact to the earth and your wrist (since it’s so light). I r...

Retrospective: Tomas Finds A New Purpose For His Pocket Gallet Yachting Timer Fratello
Jun 26, 2025

Retrospective: Tomas Finds A New Purpose For His Pocket Gallet Yachting Timer

The 1972 catalog lists it as the Gallet Maritimer, although it says Yachting Timer on the dial. You choose. The new designation is still connected to water use…well, sort of. I hereby announce with all due respect that I turned it into my Gallet Soft-Boiled Egg Timer. And I love it! I will start with […] Visit Retrospective: Tomas Finds A New Purpose For His Pocket Gallet Yachting Timer to read the full article.

Hands On: Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Blue Obsidian SJX Watches
Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Blue Jun 24, 2025

Hands On: Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Blue Obsidian

Piaget combines its traditional expertise in stone dials and ultra-thin movements with the Polo Perpetual Calendar Blue Obsidian, a handsome – and more original – take on the complicated Polo. The slim white gold case is combined with a mesmerizing dial in blue obsidian, which is not a mineral as often believed, but instead volcanic glass. Initial Thoughts The latest Polo Perpetual Calendar is arguably Piaget’s strongest release of the year. It plays to two of the brand’s traditional strengths, thin movements and natural stone or mineral dials. Piaget is of course not the only brand with a perpetual calendar sports watch. In fact, the Polo perpetual with a blue obsidian dial is similar enough to the competition to be competitive – it possesses the key characteristics of being slim and blue – but manages to do so without being derivative, which is arguably an issue with the earlier iteration of the model. The blue obsidian dial in particular sets this apart from comparable watches since exotic dial materials are relatively rare in this segment. The mechanics inside the latest Polo perpetual remain the same. While not the most sophisticated perpetual calendar mechanism in the segment, the ubiquitous Dubois Depraz calendar module is solid and reliable if adjusted according to protocol. Its widespread use also makes it easy for watchmakers to source parts, which is not always a given when it comes to complicated ultra-thin watches. That, paired with a competent ult...

In-Depth: A Guide to Every Equation of Time Watch by A.-L. Breguet SJX Watches
Breguet Abraham-Louis Breguet 1747-1823 stands Jun 23, 2025

In-Depth: A Guide to Every Equation of Time Watch by A.-L. Breguet

Abraham-Louis Breguet (1747-1823) stands among the most revered names in horology, celebrated for innovations that shaped modern watchmaking. While his tourbillon, self-winding mechanism, and anti-shock system are widely acknowledged, his work in astronomical timekeeping, particularly equation of time (EOT) watches, remain one of Breguet’s most intricate yet less-explored achievements. With 2025 marking the 250th anniversary of his birth, this guide offers the most comprehensive study of every known EOT timepiece made during his lifetime, including pocket watch no. 160 “Marie Antoinette”, expanding on our prior analysis of the complication (in parts I and II). No. 160 as pictured at the recent exhibition in London’s Science Museum. Image – Baruch Coutts Looking at the stars Breguet operated in an era where precision timekeeping was dictated by astronomy, and his workshop, positioned at the heart of Paris’s scientific and commercial networks, was uniquely placed to serve scientists, navigators, and royalty who required accurate solar and mean time readings. Rather than settling on a single method for displaying and correcting the EOT, he explored multiple mechanical solutions, refining some while revisiting earlier ideas when necessary. His approach does not follow a strictly linear evolution but instead reflects a dynamic cycle of innovation, mechanical experimentation, and adaptation. Breguet’s cam-driven system with feeler to indicate EOT, as found in pocke...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue” Vs. Breitling SuperOcean Heritage B31 Automatic 40 Kelly Slater Edition Fratello
Breitling SuperOcean Heritage B31 Automatic Jun 22, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue” Vs. Breitling SuperOcean Heritage B31 Automatic 40 Kelly Slater Edition

It’s Sunday morning, so it’s time for another heated Sunday Morning Showdown. Two recently released summer divers take center stage in this week’s battle. The first is the colorful Tudor Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue.” The watch reintroduces the aesthetic of the 1990s Tudor Submariner ref. 79190 with its mirror-polished bezel. It is combined with […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Tudor Black Bay 54 “Lagoon Blue” Vs. Breitling SuperOcean Heritage B31 Automatic 40 Kelly Slater Edition to read the full article.