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Quill & Pad
Martin Green's quest for the ultimate fountain pen began unexpectedly, and over the following decades he learned many things, including nothing compares to writing with a gold nib! Join Martin as he embarks upon part one of his personal fountain pen journey, which includes an inherited piece, a demonstrator, over-the-top colors, and cloisonné enamel.
When iconic American watchmaking brands are brought up, it’s impossible not to mention Bulova. Born out of the mind of Joseph Bulova in 1875, the brand has been making quality timepieces for nearly one and a half centuries, with the brand’s 150th anniversary coming up soon. When a brand gets their start so early in the grand scheme of American history, you can trace the watches back to specific periods of innovation and design language. Today, we’re exploring the breadth of Bulova by highlighting some of their most iconic models that are still made today. Whether you want to learn about WWII watches from the 1940s, space-worn watches of the 1960s, brightly-colored dive watches of the 1970s, or technology from the dawn of quartz watches, Bulova has something to pique your interest. Let’s take a closer look at some modern interpretations of some of Bulova’s most recognizable timepieces. The post The Breadth of Bulova: A Guide to American Icons appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Deployant
And to round up this year's picks, the Chief Editor makes his top 3 picks from this year's show. Picks from Lange, JLC and Grand Seiko.
Time+Tide
If the bubbly Oyster Perpetual wasn’t quite whimsical enough for you, or was not the right type of colourful – Rolex has got you covered. Introduced in two new variants, it revives the funky stone dials of the 1970s and fully enters the realm of quirky with high-end champlevé enamel dials – emojis and inspirational … ContinuedThe post New Rolex Day-Date 36 model go old-school and very funky appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
As is now tradition, Patek Philippe is unveiling its Rare Handcrafts collection for the year at its boutique in Geneva alongside Watches & Wonders (W&W;) that takes place at the same time. Open to the public from April 1 to 15, Rare Handcrafts 2023 encompasses 67 timepieces – including 22 Dome Clocks and a dozen pocket watches – all decorated with a variety of artisanal techniques ranging from wood marquetry to cloisonné enamel. Amongst the highlights from the collection is the Calatrava ref. 5189G-001 “1948 Nations Grand Prix” (pictured above), a wristwatch with a cloisonné enamel dial depicting the automobile race that took place in Geneva from 1946 to 1950. Another is the pocket watch “Leopard” ref. 995/137J-001 that is finished with wood marquetry on its back and champlevé enamel along the case and bow. “Leopard” ref. 995/137J-001 In addition to the new launches, the exhibition also has on show a selection of vintage and antique timepieces from the Patek Philippe Museum. Rare Handcrafts 2023 is open daily to the public from April 1 to 15, except on Sundays. Patek Philippe Salons Rue du Rhône 41 1204 Genève Switzerland Admission is free but registration is required and it can be done on Patek.com.
SJX Watches
Popular for making artisanal dials affordable, Seiko’s Presage Craftsmanship series has been facelifted for the 110th anniversary of the brand’s first watch. The dials continue to be decorated with techniques ranging from fired enamel to Japanese lacquer, but the Presage case has been refined into an all-new design. The restyled Presage is making its debut as a quartet of limited editions with dials in fired enamel (SPB393), traditional lacquer known as urushi (SPB395), Arita porcelain (SPB397), and translucent Shippo enamel (SPB399). The Shippo enamel dial of the SPB399 Initial thoughts Amongst the most affordable watches with fancy dials, the Presage Craftsmanship series has always been a good value proposition. Made with artisanal techniques typically found on pricier watches, the dials are all impressively executed especially considering the price, which starts at US$1,450 for the enamel dial SPB393 and tops out at US$2,050 for the SPB399 with a Shippo enamel dial. While the dial work was always impressive, earlier models had cases that were simple in form and somewhat chunky. Now Seiko has solved that with a redesigned case that appears thinner and more refined. The new case style makes it debut on this quartet but given its merits will inevitably become standard for future Presage Craftsmanship models. Due to the 6R series movements within, the new case is still large (the larger model is almost 41 mm wide and over 14 mm high) but it has been significantly r...
Hodinkee
How would you spend ten grand? We asked our team. Their answers may surprise you – though in Danny's case, probably not.
Revolution
In 2022, when De Bethune relaunched their incredible DB25 Perpetual Calendar in an all-new case size of 40mm, collectors sat up and took notice as it made an already thoughtfully-designed grand complication watch even more well-proportioned for the wrist. Wei and Jeremiah discuss the genesis of this sea change in the DB25 Perpetual Calendar’s case […]
SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet recently launched more than a dozen new models and predictably it was the Royal Oaks that got the most attention. But the most impressive new release was unquestionably the Code 11.59 Universelle. It’s a grand complication that boasts multiple complications most cleverly executed, in a remarkably compact case – the size of the watch is an achievement in itself. Though the Universelle is positively slender for a grand complication, it’s still a large watch. But criticising the Universelle for its somewhat ungainly looks is to miss the point completely. Just like a mid-engine Ferrari will never be a roomy vehicle capable of conveying four adults in comfort, a grand complication will never be a svelte watch. Even Francois-Paul Journe, a legendary talent who has long specialised in slim complications, needs a lot of volume to contain his most complicated watch, the double-sided Astronomic Souveraine. Grand complications, or more specifically mega complications, like the Universelle, are never pretty. That’s simply a matter of necessity – the mechanical complexity inevitably results in an enormous case and confusing dial. The F.P. Journe Astronomic, Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime, and Vacheron Constantin Tour de l’Ile are all equally large and confusing. The Astronomic is the smallest of the lot and it’s still 44 mm by 13.7 mm. And the Grandmaster Chime is a titanic 47.7 mm by 16.07 mm. I can confirm the Grandmaster Chime is titanic no matter ho...
Hodinkee
These next classes will be hosted by Oak & Oscar, Grand Seiko & Ben Bridge Jeweler.
Hodinkee
A total of 23 complications – including a perpetual calendar, minute repeater, grand and petite sonnerie, flyback chronograph, and tourbillon – show AP's prowess as a true watchmaker of ultra-complicated watches.
Hodinkee
The week in drops and news, plus our ex-newbie picks a Grand Seiko and an off-topic ode to vintage Movado.
SJX Watches
With at least two iterations launched since the model’s debut – first in enamel and then onyx – the Code 11.59 tourbillon is third time lucky with the latest version of the model being the most striking to date. The Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Flying Tourbillon Green Aventurine is in 18k pink gold with the centrepiece being the fired enamel dial dial containing crushed aventurine glass. Initial thoughts Bold and contemporary appears to be the name of the game for Audemars Piguet, as the recent releases indicate a strong push of the Code 11.59 lineup refreshed with modernised and adventurous livery. And the new Code 11.59 Flying Tourbillon delivers on that front – love it or hate it, it is a markedly distinct variation of its conservative predecessors. The green dial combined with the package of the pink gold case and black ceramic case middle offers a striking contrast that’s intriguing in person. Colour contrast Black ceramic is the recent trend for Audemars Piguet, as the brand has been increasingly using the material as the case middle for the Code 11.59 lineup. Sandwiched between a pink gold bezel and case back, the combination is a decidedly contemporary appearance especially when paired with the stock rubber strap. But of course, the appeal of the new model is the green aventurine dial. Made by firing crushed aventurine glass in an 800°C furnace, the dial glimmers and sparkles under the light. The green colour luxuriously contrasts the dial adornments...
SJX Watches
Undoubtedly the flagship of its recent new launches, the Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Universelle is the brand’s most complicated wristwatch in recent years – or perhaps ever. A project that began in 2016, the uber-complication rooted in history: it is a tribute to L’Universelle, the grand complication pocket watch from 1899 made by AP for German watchmaker Union. But the watch simultaneously pushes the brand’s modern-day watchmaking to the limit, particularly in terms of miniaturising highly complex mechanisms. The Universelle is available in two guises, the open dial above and the solid dial pictured further up Officially one of the brand’s Research and Development timepieces – the model is also known as the RD#4 – the Universelle is an exercise in combining into a single wristwatch all the traditional mechanisms that constitute a grand complication, and then some – perpetual calendar, rattrapante chronograph with flyback, tourbillon, and grande et petite sonnerie with minute repeater. L’Universelle on display in the Audemars Piguet Museum Initial thoughts An assuming name that means little to anyone who doesn’t understand the historical inspiration, Universelle is a horological behemoth that captures AP’s industrial and mechanical capability. Though it has a highly modern design, the Universelle harks back to a bygone era of high watchmaking that prized highly complicated watches incorporating as many features as feasible into a (barely) wearable...
Time+Tide
Apparently, Rado can turn you into a tennis champion. When the British player, Andy Murray partnered with the Swiss brand in 2012, he’d never won a Grand Slam. After signing with Rado, however, he proceeded to win the US Open and then became the first Brit to conquer Wimbledon since 1936, when he won the … ContinuedThe post Ash Barty collaborates on a new Rado True Square inspired by her mum appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Seiko made history when it produced the first-ever made-in-Japan wristwatch in 1913. Known as the Laurel, the 1913 wristwatch was typical of the era when pocket watches were evolving into wristwatches. To mark the 110th anniversary of its first wristwatch, Seiko debuts the Presage Seiko Watchmaking 110th Anniversary ref. SPB359. Featuring a fired enamel dial, the Presage 110th Anniversary is modelled on the 1913 original, right down to the case reminiscent of a pocket watch. Initial thoughts Seiko regularly rolls out Presage limited editions with dials ranging from porcelain to Japanese lacquer, but all share the same case style despite the diversity in dials. In contrast, the Presage 110th Anniversary is refreshingly different and unique within the Presage line-up. Not only is the case executed in the style of an early 20th century watch, it is also more compact than the typical Presage, measuring at 37.5 mm in diameter instead of the usual 40.5 mm. That said, the new Presage is still fairly thick at over 12 mm high as a consequence of the movement inside. Both the case design and dimensions give it a distinctly different look and feel from past Presage models. This means the anniversary edition has appeal even for someone who already owns a past Presage model. And as expected for Seiko, the Presage 110th Anniversary is solid value with a retail price of about US$2,000. The 1913 Laurel in the Seiko Museum Retro styling Entirely polished and stainless steel, the case of t...
Revolution
In Saint-Émilion, part of the winemaking region of Bordeaux, France, stands Château Angelus, a vineyard that has remained in ownership of the Boüard de Laforest family for almost two and half centuries. The château is a mecca for wine lovers the world over and vintages from this Premier Grand Cru Classe A estate are renowned […]
Revolution
On a recent trip to Château Angelus, a Premier Grand Cru Classe A vineyard in Saint-Émilion, France, Wei met with Bertrand Savary, CEO of Angelus to talk about our first collaboration with the brand. The scenic vistas surrounding the château were the perfect location to first discover our salmon dial Chronodate, which is aptly named […]
Time+Tide
It’s been an eventful 12 months for George Russell. After his first real taste of Formula One victory was cruelly taken away from him as he filled in for a COVID-stuck Lewis Hamilton as the 2020 Sakir Grand Prix, Russell had to bide his time at Williams before getting his chance at the big time. … ContinuedThe post INTERVIEW: A virtual hot lap with Formula 1’s rising star George Russell appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
De Bethune’s latest invention aims to customise the regulation of a mechanical watch to suit the individual owner. Dubbed the Sensoriel Chronometry Project, it takes the form of a electronic wrist instrument that measures the wearer’s activities and environmental conditions over a two week period – gathering two million data points per hour according to the brand. With this voluminous quantity of data, De Bethune will then regulate a DB28GS Grand Bleu sports watch specifically for the particular owner, optimising timekeeping based on the wearer’s activities. [Updated to include response from Denis Flageollet.] Initial thoughts On paper the Sensoriel is interesting and impressive, but on reflection it raises several questions. For one, the two million data points recorded per hour – for a two-week period – results in an extraordinary amount of information on the wearer’s activities. Can any mechanical watch be regulated to a fine enough resolution that makes even a fraction of that data useful? My knowledge of watchmaking is certainly inexpert but I am sceptical. Mr Flageollet points out De Bethune utilises an algorithm to process the data and sieve out the “elements specific to the wearer, in a way to bring out a specific chronometric DNA for each wearer”, allowing the watch to be regulated according to a smaller number of data points. The second salient point is more philosophical. Historically the pursuit of chronometry meant good timekeeping regardless...
Hodinkee
Live from Geneva! It's the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève.
Time+Tide
This week seems to be the week of awards shows. I was in California last weekend for the Hamilton Behind the Camera Awards, while today Andrew was at the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève. The Hamilton Behind the Camera Awards celebrate the hard work of those who work behind the scenes in the movie industry, … ContinuedThe post FRIDAY WIND DOWN: A week of awards with Hamilton’s BTCA and the GPHGs appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Hodinkee
These next classes will be hosted by Grand Seiko and Ben Bridge Jeweler.
Time+Tide
Chinese watchmaking has been getting an increasing amount of recognition, and deservedly so, with CIGA Design seemingly leading this expansion. First being awarded the Challenge Watch Prize at the 2021 edition of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève, the brand has once again been recognised for their achievements, this time by another important Swiss institution, … ContinuedThe post The GPHG-winning CIGA Design Blue Planet inducted into Geneva’s Musée d’Art et d’Histoire appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
To mark the reopening of its boutique within the same complex, Vacheron Constantin (VC) has just inaugurated The Anatomy of Beauty, an exhibition taking place in the ArtScience Museum of Marina Bay Sands from now to November 2, 2022. Open to the public with free admission, the exhibition is an all-encompassing showcase of the brand’s watchmaking split into three sections, starting with its historical timepieces and culminating in its modern-day grand complications like the Tour de l’lle. The first section, Our Heritage: A Legacy as Precious as Time, presents a selection of the brand’s notable timepieces from its earliest years – the oldest watch on show is exactly 200 years old – continuing into the present day with the landmark Tour de l’lle launched in 2005 to mark the brand’s 250th anniversary, an impressive double-faced watch with 16 complications. A pocket watch dating from 1822 with an engraved case set with amethysts The Tour de l’lle Following that comes The Anatomy of Beauty dedicated to the brand’s traditional and artisanal decorative techniques. Amongst the highlights is the Métiers d’Art “Great Civilisations”, a quartet of watches unveiled just earlier this year at the Louvre. Métiers d’Art “Great Civilisations” Finally Science and Complications explores the five most important complications for VC, namely the tourbillon, split-seconds chronograph, retrograde display, perpetual calendar, and minute repeater. The key exh...
Hodinkee
A Cartier London Crash, Grand Seiko, and a Patek with hieroglyphs headline the winter sale.
Deployant
The Reine de Naples 8918 is one of the Maison’s iconic pieces.This novelty introduces two new white gold cased models - with enamel dial and MOP dial.
Deployant
Patek Philippe unveils the World Time Ref. 5231G in white gold, featuring a cloisonné enamel dial depicting a map of South East Asia and Oceania.
Revolution
Earlier this August, Wei sat down with Franck Muller’s CEO, Nicholas Rudaz, to take a first look at the new Vanguard Rose Skeleton collection. This watch was originally conceived as a special edition for the brand’s Singapore retail partner, Cortina Watch, but now comes in a stunning configuration of black diamonds and champlevé enamel.
Quill & Pad
Joshua Munchow became somewhat informed about gemstones and related techniques in studying for the jewelry-heavy Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève categories we discuss annually. This new information has sparked a significant amount of passion for the topic, leaving him wanting to share some of what he’s learned about one of the most beautiful sides of haute horology: gems and their settings.
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