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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.
Hands-On with the New Releases from Naoya Hida Worn & Wound
Ming Naoya Hida releases 12h ago

Hands-On with the New Releases from Naoya Hida

One of my favorite days on the watch media calendar every year is the Naoya Hida preview day. Every spring for the last few years, watch media types make appointments at the Armoury on the Upper East Side to get a look at the upcoming Naoya Hida releases for the year. It feels like a very old fashioned way of doing things. Yes, there’s a press release sent out ahead of time, but Naoya Hida only makes one announcement like this per year – there are no mid-cycle drops or limited editions released to coincide with some later event. Members of the Naoya Hida team are present and there to explain the collection, piece by piece.  This year, Naoya Hida will produce a total of 10 models, 7 of which are new designs. We won’t go through each one here, but rather focus on the references that are completely new and those that have the most notable upgrades.  The reference that immediately caught my eye and was easily the most unexpected of the bunch is the new NH TYPE2C-2. To this point, Naoya Hida has really been defined, in my estimation, by their dial aesthetic, which prominently features elaborate hand engravings in the dial surface. It’s a very traditional and inherently ornate way to make a dial, and the execution is always top notch. It’s a type of craft that’s a true “IYKYK” proposition, though. From a distance the handwork on these dials might not be obvious, but they really come alive under close examination, especially under a loupe.  Anyway, the TYPE2C-2...

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Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Laureato Chronograph in a Rich Chocolate Brown Worn & Wound
Girard-Perregaux Introduces 16h ago

Girard-Perregaux Introduces the Laureato Chronograph in a Rich Chocolate Brown

After taking my French lessons in Duolingo for the better part of three years, I’m happy to say that some of those grammar tips are still rolling around in the ol’ noggin when I have to type such names as Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph in Chocolate – hey, if no one else is going to toot my horn, I might as well, right? Now, enough about me. This latest edition from the brand (which, impressively, has been around since 1791) gives the overall appearance of the Laureato model (which, only slightly less impressively, has been around since 1975) a warmer character with a brown hobnail dial, a matching rubber strap, and rose gold details against the slightly colder steel case. The Laureato elements haven’t gone anywhere on this iteration, they’ve just been updated to complement the chocolate tones. The octagonal bezel, crown, and chronograph pushers have all been executed in rose gold. The integrated rubber strap and tonneau-shaped 904L steel case keep the model’s trademark style while working within what Girard-Perregaux has described as “sporty-chic,” a phrase I’m not too fond of, but can’t deny does describe this watch quite well. The real depth and warmth come from the dial itself. Girard-Perregaux uses a brown Clou de Paris hobnail pattern, with matching subdials and rose-gilt baton markers and hands. The rubber strap I briefly mentioned above continues that same Clou de Paris texture, tying the Chocolate colorway together and keeping things in b...

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Introducing: The Armoury And Naoya Hida & Co. Type 4A-2 "Floating Feathers" Hodinkee
Naoya Hida 16h ago

Introducing: The Armoury And Naoya Hida & Co. Type 4A-2 "Floating Feathers"

What We Know Usually, we only get one round of Naoya Hida & Co. releases each year, as the company manufactures so few watches per year (though that number is increasing) that one round of releases of 10+ models with around 10 watches per model per year is about the maximum. So imagine my surprise when we got a press release about a new collaboration between Hida-san and his retailer, The Armoury, to be released after the initial wave of releases. They've collaborated before (their "Lettercutter" is one of Hida's most beloved watches). This new release, the Type 4A-2 "Floating Feathers," is by far the most unusual and imaginative Naoya Hida watch yet. The watch uses a high-polish stainless steel Type 4 case (36mm by 42.9mm lug-to-lug, 11mm thick) with a central seconds hand, keeping the dial free for artistic expression. Mark Cho, co-founder of The Armoury, and designer Elliot Hammer say that they were inspired by decorative ornithological dials, botanical motifs, and nature scenes.  As ornithology is the study of birds, my thought immediately went to "singing bird boxes," but hey, I didn't make the watch, so no one asked me. Hammer, who travels to Japan often, said he was taken by their attention to space and timelessness, and in the press release says, "if there are feathers, there must have also once been a bird." Rationale for the design aside, Naoya Hida & Co. has the benefit of a talented in-house engraver, Keisuke Kano, and used the bead-blasted Argentium silver di...

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Introducing: The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Returns in Platinum (Live Pics) Hodinkee
Daniel Roth Extra Plat Returns 18h ago

Introducing: The Daniel Roth Extra Plat Returns in Platinum (Live Pics)

What We Know There's just something about the Daniel Roth case that makes for an excellent watch. On the wrist, the ellipsocurvex shape sits comfortably between a round dress watch and a tank, and with the Extra-Plat case (extra-flat, in English) and slightly dropped lugs, it has incredible appeal once you put it on. Which makes it especially hard to convey that in text, but I'll try my best with the newest version that launched today, the Extra Plat Platinum model. I saw the watch a few months ago when the brand also announced the Extra Plat Skeleton, which was impressive in its own way. But I'd been waiting for a white metal Extra Plat since the brand relaunched (even though the price tag was bound to be outside my range).  The Extra Plat Souscription was announced only a little over a year ago, and the new platinum version is already the fourth variant in the lineup (yellow gold for the souscription, rose for the next, the rose gold skeleton, and now this). There are only so many ways you can play with the concept, but the details matter even more because of it. The Souscription, pictured below, had a tonal dial and case with blue printing and hands, a treatment I liked a lot. I actually asked whether the brand planned to take the same approach with the following releases, and the answer, at the time, was no. I think the result is, frankly, a bit more legible. For comparison, I'm showing them all below, and you get a taste of what the front and back look like at the sa...

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First Look – The New Longines HydroConquest Commonwealth Games 2026 Monochrome
Longines HydroConquest Commonwealth Games 2026 20h ago

First Look – The New Longines HydroConquest Commonwealth Games 2026

Longines has long been connected to sport. From its long-standing role as official timekeeper of major competitions to its continued involvement with the Commonwealth Games since 1962, the brand has always been there to measure performance with precision. Following earlier celebratory editions, such as the colourful 2022 Birmingham model, Longines now introduces the HydroConquest Commonwealth […]

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Video: The Jacob & Co. The Godfather II — A Double-Melody Musical Timepiece Fratello
Jacob & Co. 21h ago

Video: The Jacob & Co. The Godfather II — A Double-Melody Musical Timepiece

The Jacob & Co. The Godfather II is not the first Godfather-themed watch. It is, however, the first that plays two tunes — “The Godfather Waltz” and “The Godfather Love Theme.” Jacob & Co. built a timepiece with a single music box barrel playing two songs, and Benjamin Arabov tells us how the watch with […] Visit Video: The Jacob & Co. The Godfather II — A Double-Melody Musical Timepiece to read the full article.

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First Look – The Two-Tone & Chocolate Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph 42mm Monochrome
Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph 42mm 22h ago

First Look – The Two-Tone & Chocolate Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph 42mm

The Laureato is Girard-Perregaux’s answer to the integrated luxury sports watch. Born in 1975 as a chronometer-certified quartz sports watch, Girard-Perregaux revived the Laureato in 2016 as a limited edition to celebrate the brand’s 225th anniversary, and later as a collection in 2017. Produced three years after Gérald Genta’s landmark Royal Oak but a year […]

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Fratello Talks: The Great Watch Price-Shift Dilemma Fratello
Yesterday

Fratello Talks: The Great Watch Price-Shift Dilemma

Watch prices have been creeping upward for years, but recently, it feels like something more fundamental is happening. It’s no longer just about incremental increases, as entire segments seem to be shifting. Brands are moving into price territory once occupied by others, microbrands are pushing higher than ever before, and the old mental map of […] Visit Fratello Talks: The Great Watch Price-Shift Dilemma to read the full article.

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Over the Hill: Understanding High-Tech Ceramic on the Material’s 40th Birthday Worn & Wound
Rado Yesterday

Over the Hill: Understanding High-Tech Ceramic on the Material’s 40th Birthday

Material innovation is increasingly becoming a core pillar within the watch industry. Whether borrowing and reconfiguring materials from different industries or composing your own from the ground up, it is clear materials matter when it comes to both technical feats and aesthetics achieved in watchmaking today. Sometimes, I like to think of these cutting-edge materials as mile markers on the highway of horology. I am always considering the world 50 or 100 years from now, when the watches of the present will become the watches of yesteryear, when what we consider modern will become vintage. I believe that the application of new materials will be a mark of this era of watchmaking that will serve as a milestone moment in the ever-unfolding history of horology. For Rado, the story starts with a sapphire crystal. While the brand was not the first to use this in place of acrylic or other weaker options, it was among the early adopters. However, Rado took it a step further by patenting a sliding water-sealed mechanism with a tension-fit construction. Here, the thick, faceted sapphire crystal was secured under high pressure into the oval-shaped hard metal case with a specialized gasket, designed to be exceptionally tight. Its effectiveness sparked further curiosity – what if this same scratch resistance and robustness could be applied to other parts of the watch or the watch in its entirety? With that guiding principle, the quest that would lead to the creation of high-tech cera...

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Introducing – California-Based Indie Brand Havid Nagan unveils the NH02 Collection Monochrome
Ming from Yesterday

Introducing – California-Based Indie Brand Havid Nagan unveils the NH02 Collection

Aren Bazerkanian, founder and creative director of Havid Nagan, is one of the few new independent watchmakers who have generated much interest in recent years. Coming from an unconventional background and formed by early exposure to high-end horology, Bazerkanian introduced the HN00 as an inaugural statement in 2022, with bold architectural cases, followed by the […]

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The Business of Watches Podcast: Oris Chief Executive Officer Rolf Studer Hodinkee
Oris Chief Executive Officer Rolf Yesterday

The Business of Watches Podcast: Oris Chief Executive Officer Rolf Studer

This week on The Business of Watches, we're in Hölstein, Switzerland, near Basel, at the peach-rose colored headquarters of Oris to talk to Rolf Studer, the brand's Chief Executive Officer. One of the 50 largest Swiss brands by sales, Oris is a true independent, making mechanical watches at fair prices, conveying the brand's unique spirit.  Its history dates back to 1904, with boom times in the 1960s that were kick-started by the tireless legal and lobbying work of Dr. Rolf Portmann, an Oris executive (and honorary chairman today), whose efforts led to overturning the Swiss Watch Statute in 1966 that had prevented Oris and many other brands from using Swiss lever escapements in their watch movements. Oris CEO Rolf Studer. Photo courtesy Oris.  Some 60 years later, Oris is marking that milestone with its Star Edition, an updated version of the Star, the first Oris watch to use a Swiss lever escapement after the law was changed. Portmann and Ulrich Herzog (now the Chairman) went on to lead a management buyout of Oris in 1982, which solidified the company's position as an independent brand. Studer, who has been co-CEO since 2016 and was appointed CEO last month, discusses Oris' positioning and strategy in the current market, where the strong Swiss franc is challenging it and fellow watchmakers. Oris has responded with models that not only offer value to customers but also draw on its storied history and the unique community culture it has fostered. Studer makes the case f...

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Hands-On With The Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Erotic Fratello
Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Erotic When Yesterday

Hands-On With The Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Erotic

When the article about the new Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Erotic came out on the 1st of April, many did not take it seriously. Though the images were way better than a silly AI-generated render, readers thought they were part of a very elaborate prank by Guillaume Laidet and his team. Well, I’m here to tell […] Visit Hands-On With The Nivada Grenchen Antarctic Erotic to read the full article.

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Introducing – The Baltic Rally Timer Tour Auto 2026 is the Set You Need for your Classic Car Monochrome
Baltic Rally Timer Tour Auto Yesterday

Introducing – The Baltic Rally Timer Tour Auto 2026 is the Set You Need for your Classic Car

Seasoned divers, like our own Derek, will all tell you that, in our day and age, a mechanical dive watch isn’t truly relevant anymore, having been replaced by diving computers. And yet, either for safety or emotional reasons, many still use an old-school timepiece during their seasons. In the world of classic car rallies, the […]

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Hands-On With The Watch That Shouts My Name And The Other 100th-Anniversary Rolex Oyster Perpetual Fratello
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Once I 2 days ago

Hands-On With The Watch That Shouts My Name And The Other 100th-Anniversary Rolex Oyster Perpetual

Once I saw it, I couldn’t unsee it. The special Jubilee dial of one of two anniversary Rolex Oyster Perpetual watches displayed the brand name repeatedly, but I just saw my name written over and over. This watch that literally had my name on it in a most obvious way. So, is the OP with […] Visit Hands-On With The Watch That Shouts My Name And The Other 100th-Anniversary Rolex Oyster Perpetual to read the full article.

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