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Results for The Dirty Dozen

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The Dirty Dozen

Twelve Swiss makers who supplied the 1944-45 British MoD W.W.W. specification: Buren, Cyma, Eterna, Grana, IWC, JLC, Lemania, Longines, Omega, Record, Timor, Vertex.

Only One More Week To Go Before TimeFest Opens Its Doors Again In Bordeaux Fratello
May 10, 2025

Only One More Week To Go Before TimeFest Opens Its Doors Again In Bordeaux

Next weekend, on May 17th and 18th, TimeFest will once again take place in Bordeaux, France. This is the second year for the event, and it promises to be even bigger and better than last time. The number of exhibiting brands went up from almost 50 to 65, and because the event moved to the […] Visit Only One More Week To Go Before TimeFest Opens Its Doors Again In Bordeaux to read the full article.

Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Day-Date Models With Exotic Dials Fratello
Rolex Day-Date Models May 9, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Day-Date Models With Exotic Dials

The Rolex Day-Date has long been the brand’s flagship model. We sometimes forget that fact due to all the new Rolex releases every year. We usually only see new dial variations for the Day-Date. But that makes sense; after all, why drastically change something if it’s already so good? This is why we decided to […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Rolex Day-Date Models With Exotic Dials to read the full article.

Watch Movements: A Comprehensive Guide and FAQ Teddy Baldassarre
May 8, 2025

Watch Movements: A Comprehensive Guide and FAQ

Watch movements, like the engines in cars, are the mechanisms that make the whole thing run, and if you're new to the world of avid watch enthusiasm, there's more to learn about them, and how they work, than you think. In this comprehensive guide to watch movements, we will attempt to answer every question that you might have about movements - their different types, their important parts, who makes them, and even a bit of history and trivia.  What is a Mechanical Movement? A mechanical movement, the oldest type of movement in horology, uses a coiled metal spring, called a mainspring, that releases energy as it uncoils through a series of gears to drive a weighted, oscillating wheel called a balance wheel. The balance wheel’s oscillations are linked to an escapement, which periodically releases the gear train to move the hands forward to record the passing of hours, minutes, and seconds. Originally, the mainspring needed to be wound periodically by hand, first by a key, then by a winding crown attached via a stem to the movement. Later, a type of movement was developed that could be wound “automatically,” through the motions of the wearer’s wrist. What is the difference between a mechanical movement and an automatic movement? It isn’t really a question of difference: the latter is simply a specific type of the former, à la a Cognac and a brandy. The two main types of mechanical movements are manually wound (or “hand-winding”), in which the user needs to p...

New: Tudor Black Bay Chrono”Carbon 25″ & Pelagos FXD Chrono”Pink” Deployant
Tudor Black Bay Chrono”Carbon 25″ May 8, 2025

New: Tudor Black Bay Chrono”Carbon 25″ & Pelagos FXD Chrono”Pink”

Tudor stuns us with Consecutive Launches in a Single Week! Presenting the Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 25” and the Pelagos FXD Chrono “Pink”. Press Release information with commentary in italics New: Tudor Black Bay Chrono”Carbon 25″ & Pelagos FXD Chrono”Pink” The Tudor Black Bay Chrono “Carbon 25” is priced at SGD 10,470 (Limited to 2025 pieces). While theRead More

Retrospective: Tomas Sports A Puzzling Late Blue-Dial Gallet Chronograph Fratello
May 8, 2025

Retrospective: Tomas Sports A Puzzling Late Blue-Dial Gallet Chronograph

I saw some potential in its attractive dial. But since it was so simple and powered by a pretty standard Valjoux movement, I truly didn’t expect this blue-dial Gallet to become my beater. It’s funny how, every so often, a watch I’d least expect finds a way to wriggle itself into my heart. Despite what […] Visit Retrospective: Tomas Sports A Puzzling Late Blue-Dial Gallet Chronograph to read the full article.

Fratello Talks: Are Watch Brands Doing Too Much? Fratello
May 8, 2025

Fratello Talks: Are Watch Brands Doing Too Much?

Every other week, we’re bombarded with an onslaught of new watches. And though we’re not too upset about it in principle, the incessant pace at which the majority of watch brands pump out new products has recently had us asking, “Are watch brands doing too much?” Today, on Fratello Talks, Nacho, Thomas, and Gerard join […] Visit Fratello Talks: Are Watch Brands Doing Too Much? to read the full article.

Collective Horology’s Open House LA Event Is Back For 2025 Fratello
May 8, 2025

Collective Horology’s Open House LA Event Is Back For 2025

If you’re in Los Angeles or just looking for an excuse to be, make sure Saturday, June 7th, is on your radar. That’s when Collective Horology’s Open House returns for its second year. If you’ve got even a passing interest in independent watchmaking, this is the kind of event you’ll want to check out, especially […] Visit Collective Horology’s Open House LA Event Is Back For 2025 to read the full article.

Introducing – Wempe Celebrates its 100-year partnership with Junghans with a Limited Edition Meister Chronoscope Monochrome
Junghans May 7, 2025

Introducing – Wempe Celebrates its 100-year partnership with Junghans with a Limited Edition Meister Chronoscope

Wempe, the family-owned retail giant founded in 1878 in Hamburg, has become one of the biggest names in luxury watch sales. Now in the hands of a fourth-generation Wempe, the retailer has 29 showrooms worldwide and produces special editions with leading German watchmakers. Designed together with Wempe, the latest 100-piece limited edition, which celebrates Wempe’s […]

Auctions: Lavish and Exotic Cartier Clocks at Phillips SJX Watches
Cartier Clocks May 6, 2025

Auctions: Lavish and Exotic Cartier Clocks at Phillips

The spring auction season kicks off in less than a week, and while there are many interesting lots worthy of attention, there are a few museum-grade Cartier clocks at Phillips that demand a close look. All made between 1905 and 1940, the most exceptional pieces date to the roaring twenties when Cartier was synonymous with Art Deco extravagance. The lots are spread across two auctions – Geneva Watch Auction: XXI, which takes place on May 10th and 11th, and Hong Kong Watch Auction: XX which takes place from May 23rd to May 25th. There are three important mystery clocks hitting the block, the most significant being portico clock No. 3, along with a handful of artfully engraved jade desk clocks. Rounding out the bunch, an amusing prism clock should keep things interesting for those bidding with smaller budgets. An introduction to Cartier mystery clocks In the early twentieth century, Cartier was on top of the world. England’s King Edward VII had just granted the firm a royal warrant, calling Cartier the “jeweler of kings” and, perhaps more significantly, “The king of jewelers.” But the Parisian firm wasn’t coasting on this praise, and shortly thereafter stunned the world with a clock with hands that appeared to float in space. This ‘mysterious’ effect was achieved by attaching the hands to rotating glass plates that were driven from the edge. The first such clock was the Modèle A, which debuted in 1912. A Cartier Modèle A. Image – Phillips The mystery cl...

SJX Podcast: Geneva Auctions and Breguet SJX Watches
Christopher Ward s daring new C12 May 6, 2025

SJX Podcast: Geneva Auctions and Breguet

In the fifth episode of the SJX Podcast, Brandon Moore and SJX discuss Breguet’s reinterpretation of the Souscription for its 250th anniversary, as well as a historical Breguet watches coming up for auction, including a pocket watch owned by Napoleon’s sister and the very first modern-day Breguet Sympathique. We also talk about Christopher Ward’s daring new C12 with a dial-side balance wheel and very contemporary styling, before moving on to antique watches and clocks coming up for auction at Phillips in Geneva, including a 1920s portico mystery clock by Cartier in the “orientalist” style. Lastly, we finish some complicated pocket watches, which are perhaps under appreciated but magnificent examples of horology. Listen on Apple Podcasts, Spotify, and YouTube.  

Watch Spotting: A New Omega Speedmaster Reverse Panda In Moonshine Gold Fratello
Omega Speedmaster Reverse Panda May 6, 2025

Watch Spotting: A New Omega Speedmaster Reverse Panda In Moonshine Gold

I admit I had to Google this one! That is all on me, though, as I’m not into movies so much. Actor Colman Domingo was at the Met Gala 2025 sporting a yet-to-be-released Omega Speedmaster Professional in Moonshine Gold. Speedmaster reverse panda in Moonshine Gold Colman Domingo has played many roles in movies and series, […] Visit Watch Spotting: A New Omega Speedmaster Reverse Panda In Moonshine Gold to read the full article.

Casio Duro Teddy Baldassarre
Casio May 6, 2025

Casio Duro

It’s hard to believe that the Casio Duro has only been around for fourteen years now. It’s been at the top of affordable dive watch lists so consistently that you’d be forgiven for thinking it’s been around since the 1990s, but indeed, 2011 was the year this S-tier value proposition hit the market. The original Casio Duro MDV-106 was a mainstream success, selling over 600,000 units in its first decade. And it’s not difficult to understand why the Duro was such a crowd pleaser: a 200-meter water-resistant diver with classically appealing sporty aesthetics and genuinely nice finishing for $50 at launch (it retails for a still downright cheap $70 these days). Even for a brand known for its affordable classics, Casio had a genuine hit on its hands and over the years added colorways like blue and gilt, along with several bezel variants. And, of course, being the watch of choice for Bill Gates certainly didn’t hurt in cementing the Duro’s reputation. Here, I will get into why the Casio Duro is one of the best affordable offerings of the last quarter of a decade. And since I know you’re thinking it, I’ll begin by addressing the smaller 38mm model and why I don’t categorize it as a “True Casio Duro.” Casio Duro Case and Wearability: Let’s start with the admission of the fact that the 44mm case size is the Casio Duro’s biggest flaw. Yes, it’s a pretty big diver measuring 44.2mm wide and 12.1mm thick with a lug-to-lug height of 48.5mm. To address the no...

Modifying Your Vintage Watch With A Sapphire Case Back Fratello
Seiko ref 45-7001 45KS Now May 6, 2025

Modifying Your Vintage Watch With A Sapphire Case Back

It will come as no surprise to our regular readers that I love vintage watches. Some of you may remember that I recently purchased a vintage King Seiko ref. 45-7001 45KS. Now, some months into owning that vintage King Seiko, I have decided to modify it with a sapphire case back. After some research, I […] Visit Modifying Your Vintage Watch With A Sapphire Case Back to read the full article.

Fratello On Air: Imagining Current Brands As Independent Watchmakers Fratello
May 6, 2025

Fratello On Air: Imagining Current Brands As Independent Watchmakers

Welcome to the latest episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we imagine certain current brands as independent watchmakers. The topic was a lot of fun to discuss and came as a suggestion from two of our listeners. Enjoy the show! This podcast player is blocked because you did not accept marketing cookies. Change cookie […] Visit Fratello On Air: Imagining Current Brands As Independent Watchmakers to read the full article.

Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne 1815 34 mm SJX Watches
A. Lange & Sohne May 6, 2025

Hands On: A. Lange & Söhne 1815 34 mm

A. Lange & Söhne delivered one of its most impressive complications at Watches & Wonders 2025, but it was the brand’s entry level novelty that was the talk of the town. The 1815 34 mm won many admirers, and for good reason; it’s attractive, comfortable, well-made, and priced right – an increasingly rare combination. Available in either 18k white or pink gold, the new 1815 is a regular production model but features a galvanic blue dial most often associated with the brand’s limited editions. It joins the Saxonia Thin as Lange’s entry-level offering; both are priced comparably but look and feel very different. Initial thoughts Small watches are back, and the 1815 design works perfectly in the 34 mm size due to its bold numerals, which help it maintain a strong presence on the wrist. The case size now goes without saying, but it’s worth mentioning the 6.4 mm thickness, which places it among the brand’s thinnest watches. This sizing is effortlessly comfortable, and the abundance of gold, sterling silver, and German silver give it reassuring heft. Like most Lange dials, the stepped blue dial of the 1815 is made from sterling silver that’s been given a galvanic finish. This particular shade of blue is often used for limited editions like the 25th anniversary Datograph and 30th anniversary Lange 1, which makes it feel extra special. Longtime fans of the brand will recall this dial harks back to the first-generation 1815 that was available with a similar dial (and...

Hands On: Louis Vuitton Escale Spin Time “Only Watch” SJX Watches
Louis Vuitton Escale Spin Time “Only May 6, 2025

Hands On: Louis Vuitton Escale Spin Time “Only Watch”

While the most valuable lot at Phillips’ upcoming Geneva auction will likely be the Breguet Sympathique clock no. 1, the sale also includes a few unexpected and interesting lots. One standout is the Louis Vuitton Escale Spin Time “Only Watch”, a unique piece created for the Only Watch charity auction in 2019. Consigned by the original owner – who is a prominent collector whom I greatly respect – the Spin Time is a flamboyant, gem-set take on Louis Vuitton’s signature complication. The centrepiece is a miniature enamel dial by Anita Porchet depicting a motif inspired by tattoo art. This unique Spin Time originally sold for CHF280,000 at Only Watch 2019. Now carrying an estimate of CHF40,000-80,000, the watch will go on the block at Phillips’ upcoming Geneva auction taking place on May 10, 2025. Initial thoughts I was a fan of this Spin Time when it was first revealed in 2019. In fact, I bid on it at Only Watch, but I was laughably uncompetitive and far from the CHF280,000 hammer. In contrast to the latest generation of Spin Time that is both refined and discreet, this watch is over the top and I like it because of that. The aesthetic is a lot, maybe too much, but it works. Most importantly, the watch is not just about extravagant styling. The dial is the work of Anita Porchet herself, combining both miniature painting and champleve. Certainly the motif is not for everyone, but the quality of craft is unmistakeable. A rose among the thorns This unique Spin Time...