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Results for The 1985 Swatch Consolidation

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The 1985 Swatch Consolidation

How Nicolas Hayek\'s ASUAG/SSIH merger (1983) and Swatch brand launch (March 1983) rescued Swiss watchmaking from the quartz crisis.

Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription Review Teddy Baldassarre
Daniel Roth Jan 29, 2025

Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription Review

Back in 2023, LVMH and its high watchmaking workshop La Fabrique du Temps revived the Daniel Roth brand, which had been owned by Bulgari since 2000. Roth was a towering name in independent watchmaking, having been a peer of Philippe Dufour and Francois-Paul Journe. Though the brand only lasted from 1988 to 1995, its resurrection in 2023 was only made more glorious due to the long gap. The resurrected brand debuted with the Tourbillon Souscription, which has been followed up with the new Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription, a faithful remake of the original from the 1990s that was released at LVMH Watch Week 2025. The “Neo-vintage” craze has only gotten more popular in recent years, with the generation of watches sandwiched between vintage and modern gaining the respect and appreciation of collectors and newcomers alike. The Chopard L.U.C 1860 reissue from 2023 was one of the most celebrated neo-vintage reissues in recent years and I’d venture to say that this Roth will join the ranks. Staying true to the original aesthetics — with contemporary concessions for things like movement development — is a recipe for success in these small-batch, high-visibility watches. Small production numbers for relative rarity are helping to keep neo-vintage from becoming overexposed, but for how long? We’ll have to wait and see on that end, but for now let’s get back to the Daniel Roth Extra Plat Souscription. The simple, two-hand dress watch comes in that recognizable double-e...

Breitling Introduces New Six Nations Chronomat Limited Editions For Men And Women Fratello
Breitling Introduces New Six Nations Jan 28, 2025

Breitling Introduces New Six Nations Chronomat Limited Editions For Men And Women

Rugby fans worldwide are looking forward to the annual Six Nations Championship that kicks off on January 31st in Paris, France. This year’s tournament will end with a trio of matches on March 15th. It will be interesting to see whether Ireland can defend its title or if we will witness the crowning of a […] Visit Breitling Introduces New Six Nations Chronomat Limited Editions For Men And Women to read the full article.

Fratello On Air: Traveling With Watches Revisited Fratello
Jan 28, 2025

Fratello On Air: Traveling With Watches Revisited

Welcome back to another episode of Fratello On Air! This week, we discuss a popular request from our listeners about traveling with watches. We’ve discussed this topic before, but it’s been a while since we last did so. For our listeners, we begin the watch content after 32 minutes.  This podcast player is blocked because you […] Visit Fratello On Air: Traveling With Watches Revisited to read the full article.

Beaucroft Teams with Bristol Based Artist Penfold on a Limited Edition for British Watchmakers’ Day Worn & Wound
Christopher Ward Elliot Brown Isotope Jan 27, 2025

Beaucroft Teams with Bristol Based Artist Penfold on a Limited Edition for British Watchmakers’ Day

On March 9th, 2024, the inaugural British Watchmakers’ Day occurred in Westminster, London, England. Organized by the Alliance of British Watch & Clock Makers, this event was celebrated as the premier watch gathering in the U.K. More than 40 brands participated, including Christopher Ward, Elliot Brown, Isotope, and even Roger W. Smith. The event was by all accounts a success, so it’s no surprise that a second event has been scheduled for Saturday, March 8th. One of the 2024  exhibitors was Beaucroft, based in Cambridge. Our very own Garrett Jones had a hands-on experience with their Forest Green Element watch in December 2024, and he enjoyed it. For this year’s British Watchmakers’ Day event, Beaucroft has collaborated with Bristol-based artist Tim Gresham, known as Penfold, to create the Penfold Special Edition watch. Penfold’s portfolio includes abstract paintings, screen printing, large-scale murals, and immersive installations. He has exhibited in galleries worldwide and collaborated with iconic brands. His influences range from skateboard graphics and Memphis-style furniture to artists like Tom Wesselmann and Eduardo Paolozzi from the Pop Art movement and contemporary figures like MOMO and KAWS. Based on their Element platform, the matte-finished white dial provided a blank canvas for Penfold to showcase his artwork. Apart from the rehaut and hands, the rest of the design is Penfold’s creation. From the supplied images, the airbrushed design elements app...

Introducing – Mike Horn’s New Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro PAM01676 Monochrome
Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro PAM01676 One Jan 27, 2025

Introducing – Mike Horn’s New Panerai Submersible QuarantaQuattro PAM01676

One of the most publicised adventurers and a Panerai ambassador for around two decades, Mike Horn has been known to push the limits of his gears – watch included – to levels that you and I would probably never dare to imagine. Should his polar expeditions, high-altitude climbs or even underwater explorations be considered a […]

Up Close: Hermès Arceau Duc Attelé Repeater Triple-Axis Tourbillon SJX Watches
Breguet numerals Jan 27, 2025

Up Close: Hermès Arceau Duc Attelé Repeater Triple-Axis Tourbillon

Hermès is a brand with a distinctive, often whimsical, visual identity that translates well across products, even on its most complicated watches like the Arceau Duc Attelé, which combines a triple-axis central tourbillon (containing a high-frequency escapement) with a minute repeater featuring novel “tuning fork” gongs. Large, thick, and very complex, the Duc Attelé still manages to capture the elegant aesthetic of the brand, even in subtle details of the H1926 movement, like horse-shaped hammers for the repeater. Customised for Hermès, the calibre has an intricate, dense construction but is recognisable as being produced by a specialist. Initial thoughts The Duc Attelé demonstrates the strength of the Hermès house style. On the front, it looks elegant despite the size, while the movement feels appropriate even though it is third party. The watch does sit big on the wrist, though the titanium version is a little lighter in weight and visually smaller due to its dark colours. But the Arceau case has tiny lugs, so it doesn’t feel clunky. And although the case is almost 20 mm high, a good part of that is due to the highly domed crystal that accommodates the tourbillon’s height. All of the design elements, however, give it an elegant feel. These include the Breguet numerals on the domed chapter ring and the “Lift” motif tourbillon cage modelled on the elevator in the brand’s flagship store in Paris. But more than anything else, this is a watch characterise...

Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Speedmaster Moonphase Meteorite Vs. Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar Fratello
Vacheron Constantin 222 up against each Jan 26, 2025

Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Speedmaster Moonphase Meteorite Vs. Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar

Welcome to another episode of Sunday Morning Showdown. Last week, we put the vintage and modern steel versions of the Vacheron Constantin 222 up against each other. Even though there are quite a few years between those two watches, you’d probably be happy with either. This week, however, we expect the matchup to be more […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Omega Speedmaster Moonphase Meteorite Vs. Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronograph Calendar to read the full article.

Fratello’s Top 5 Affordable Pre-Owned Rolex Datejust Models Fratello
Rolex Datejust Models Another Friday Jan 24, 2025

Fratello’s Top 5 Affordable Pre-Owned Rolex Datejust Models

Another Friday, another list! This week, we dive into the vast world of pre-owned Rolex. More specifically, we try to find some of the best affordable (relatively speaking, of course) Rolex Datejust models. As a result of the price drops on the pre-owned market over the last 12–18 months, many of the overly expensive Rolex […] Visit Fratello’s Top 5 Affordable Pre-Owned Rolex Datejust Models to read the full article.

Editorial: LVMH Reveals Movement Strategy with Bulgari Serpenti Automatic SJX Watches
Bulgari Serpenti Automatic Bulgari’s flagship Jan 24, 2025

Editorial: LVMH Reveals Movement Strategy with Bulgari Serpenti Automatic

Bulgari’s flagship launch at the recent LVMH Watch Week was the mechanical version of its signature watch, the Serpenti Automatic. Available as a Seduttori with a conventional bracelet and a Tubogas multi-loop bracelet version, the Serpenti Automatic is stays faithful to the model in terms of design. But the new Serpenti is notable for what’s inside: the newly developed Lady Solotempo BVS100 movement, which reveals LVMH’s plans for its watch division, which is now led by Frédéric Arnault. Conceived as a compact workhorse with a useful 50-hour power reserve, the BVS100 is an industrial calibre created by Bulgari, but it will be produced by sister brand Zenith, creating an “ecosystem” for the LVMH watch brands. The Serpenti Tubogas Automatic with its distinctive flexible, looped bracelet Initial thoughts The Serpenti is iconic Bulgari, and the BVS100 is an interesting, albeit industrial and cost-efficient, movement. But the most interesting section in the announcement of the Serpenti Automatic wasn’t about the watches themselves, but the background of the calibre: “The BVS100… developed and currently produced by Bvlgari in Le Sentier, is expected to be included in the future catalog of in-house movements available to other LVMH group Maisons and to be manufactured by Zenith… Bvlgari is proud to contribute to the manufacturing ecosystem established by LVMH in support of Watchmaking excellence and craftsmanship in Switzerland.” The “catalog of in-house ...

Historically Accurate Alternatives To IWC’s Modern Mark Series Fratello
IWC s Modern Mark Series Jan 23, 2025

Historically Accurate Alternatives To IWC’s Modern Mark Series

In December 2024, we published a review of the IWC RAAF pilot’s watch. This is a special timepiece that is only available to members of the Royal Australian Air Force (hence, RAAF). The overwhelming feedback I got through private messages as well as some of the comments on the article revealed a genuine frustration among […] Visit Historically Accurate Alternatives To IWC’s Modern Mark Series to read the full article.

Hublot’s Latest SAXEM Release is a Green Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Worn & Wound
Hublot s Latest SAXEM Release Jan 22, 2025

Hublot’s Latest SAXEM Release is a Green Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic

While I haven’t been doing “this” as long as some who have been in the watch media trenches since a time when you could reliably get a discount on a brand new Rolex at an authorized dealer, I’ve been doing it long enough to get a sense of the rhythms of a new release season. We are, as of yesterday, in the thick of it. LVMH Watch Week is the unofficial (but also kind of official) kick off of a new year in novelties from big luxury group brands, and within the confines of the LVMH experience there’s one tradition that stands out to me that’s become something I look forward to and get genuinely excited about: seeing what kind of crazy sapphire or SAXEM cased watch Hublot has come up with. Pretty reliably, on a year to year basis, Hublot shows us a wild and colorful and extremely expensive watch in an exotic, glass-adjacent material. This year, like clockwork, they’re back with the Big Bang Tourbillon Automatic Green SAXEM, a watch whose name is nearly doing my job for me. I’ve made no secret over the years of how much I enjoy these oversized, translucent watches. If I had to pick a favorite, it would probably be the purple sapphire Big Bang Tourbillon from 2022, but I’ll thank you in advance for not actually making me choose, because frankly these watches all do their thing equally well, and choosing the one you like best is like picking your favorite Coen Brothers movie. Some days it’s Fargo and on others it’s No Country for Old Men but maybe on Sunday...