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The best rectangular watches of 2021 from Jaeger-LeCoultre to Fears with a dash of colour Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Aug 25, 2021

The best rectangular watches of 2021 from Jaeger-LeCoultre to Fears with a dash of colour

Some people (yes, me) have a mental block, and just can’t being themselves to put on a rectangular watch. While I love the often Art Deco-inspired panache of rectangular watches, I have more than 20 watches to my name and they’re all ROUND, a sad state of affairs perhaps? But this year I think I … ContinuedThe post The best rectangular watches of 2021 from Jaeger-LeCoultre to Fears with a dash of colour appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

“A big chunk of the industry is somewhat screwed.” An interview with Fears MD, Nicholas Bowman-Scargill Time+Tide
Fears Aug 25, 2021

“A big chunk of the industry is somewhat screwed.” An interview with Fears MD, Nicholas Bowman-Scargill

I’m going to put it out there and say there is no more charismatic person in today’s watch world than Fears managing director Nicholas Bowman-Scargill. In an industry littered with formidable personalities – hi Jean-Claude Biver, Patrick Prunnaux and Georges Kern – there is something refreshing about he of the double-barrelled name, and that is … ContinuedThe post “A big chunk of the industry is somewhat screwed.” An interview with Fears MD, Nicholas Bowman-Scargill appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Mumm RSRV R. Lalou 2006 Champagne: A Revelation (With Or Without Usain Bolt) Quill & Pad
Aug 23, 2021

Mumm RSRV R. Lalou 2006 Champagne: A Revelation (With Or Without Usain Bolt)

Mumm Champagne has wonderful history, but then for a period it seemed to descend into little more than a discount producer. More recently, there appeared to be a serious intent to return to the glory days when this house was seen as one of the greats. Ken Gargett thinks that Mumm's RSRV R. Lalou 2006 is a revelation. Rich and complex with honeycomb notes and some butterscotch. Great length. Finely balanced.

Why Geneva Watch Days And Dubai Watch Week Are My Favorite Watch Fairs Quill & Pad
Aug 19, 2021

Why Geneva Watch Days And Dubai Watch Week Are My Favorite Watch Fairs

While the last 18 months have wreaked havoc on the big (and not so big) watch fairs – and everything else – there have been two rays of horological sunshine in the last couple of years: in November 2019 (just months before COVID-19 hit) the biannual Dubai Watch Week took place, which was bigger and better than ever. And then in August 2020 the inaugural Geneva Watch Days was held during a lull in the pandemic and it was superb. Here Ian Skellern explains why these two fairs have become his favorites.

Help! I want a pilot’s watch but can’t decide which of these five options to buy… Time+Tide
Aug 7, 2021

Help! I want a pilot’s watch but can’t decide which of these five options to buy…

Though I try to fight it, I can’t help but divide my collection into categories with accompanying check boxes; dress, diver, military etc. Many say this is a terrible way to collect, yet more than anything, I love how this forces me to experience different styles and aesthetics that I normally would not. Furthermore, in … ContinuedThe post Help! I want a pilot’s watch but can’t decide which of these five options to buy… appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Introducing the Habring2 Erwin “Star” – SJX Edition One SJX Watches
Rolex ref 6088 “Galaxy” Aug 5, 2021

Introducing the Habring2 Erwin “Star” – SJX Edition One

I’m pleased to reveal the very first 10th anniversary edition, the Habring² Erwin “Star”. Inspired by uncommon 1950s wristwatches that have long been a favourite of mine, the Erwin “Star” was almost three years in the making – my first email to Habring² was dated February 2019. It took longer than expected to realise, but I am proud of the result. Update August 5, 2021: Sold out, thank you for the interest. The genesis of the idea came to me a decade ago, when I first encountered the 36 mm “Japan Limited” that Habring² created for Shellman, a storied retailer of vintage timepieces and independent watchmaking in Tokyo. More recently, Habring² applied a similar formula to the Erwin LAB02 for Massena Lab. In the time since, I got to know Richard and Maria Habring, the husband-and-wife team behind Habring², and gained a deep appreciation of the brand uncommon approach to making quality watches accessible while emphasising practical-minded engineering. The foundation of the Erwin “Star” is Habring²’s trademark time-only wristwatch. Its proportions are almost ideal at 38.5 mm by 10.5 mm, while the A11s movement within features a jumping, or deadbeat, seconds. What makes it special – and instantly distinctive – is the “star” dial in a blue that varies with the light. The inspiration Watches from the 1950s with star hour markers have long appealed to me. Specifically, it is the Rolex ref. 6088 “Galaxy” that stands out in my memory. Produc...

My love/hate relationship with the Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Time+Tide
Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch Aug 4, 2021

My love/hate relationship with the Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch

For as long as I have been collecting watches, there has never been a watch I’ve flirted with buying more than the Omega Speedmaster Professional. And if you’ve been collecting long enough, at one point or another, you’ve probably felt the same. The watch has such a large following that it almost becomes a rite … ContinuedThe post My love/hate relationship with the Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Coming Soon: SJX 10th Anniversary Edition One by Habring2 SJX Watches
Aug 3, 2021

Coming Soon: SJX 10th Anniversary Edition One by Habring2

SJX Watches is now 10 years old. Over the decade it has evolved, from a one-man show at the start – just the eponymous founder SJX – to having a full team covering both editorial and photography, along with contributors from around the world. While the site has grown, we continue to focus on notable watches and interesting stories, and you can certainly expect this to continue. The 10th anniversary is more than a milestone – it’s an opportunity to embark on the next phase of growth – and we are pleased to give you a sneak peek at our plans. The most exciting news is the debut of our very first collaborative wristwatches. Frequent readers will notice we appreciate design and detail as much as the geeky technical bits, and now we can make that a reality. Created together with outstanding watchmakers we respect and admire – the SJX Editions will be limited editions that are diverse in style and function. The first is naturally from an independent watchmaker – a favoured genre of the site since the beginning. A collaboration with Habring2, the first edition is also the most accessibly-priced of the series, most of which are by independent watchmakers as we wanted to create something unique. Make sure you don’t miss it – sign up to be the first to know. The launch Mark your calendar – the Edition One by Habring2 will be unveiled on: August 4, 8:00 pm GMT-4 New York August 5, 1:00 am GMT+1 London August 5, 8:00 am GMT+8 Singapore, Beijing, Hong Kong At t...

HANDS-ON: The Zenith Chronomaster Original Collection offers vintage perfection on a 38mm dial Time+Tide
Zenith Chronomaster Original Collection offers Jul 31, 2021

HANDS-ON: The Zenith Chronomaster Original Collection offers vintage perfection on a 38mm dial

Zenith have a track record for having their fingers on the pulse of the watch world. In the ‘60s, they spent nearly the entire decade developing the El Primero to be the world’s first integrated automatic chronograph movement. Back then, the world was crying out for innovation: new techniques, new designs and new possibilities. Now, … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Zenith Chronomaster Original Collection offers vintage perfection on a 38mm dial appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Gincredible! How And Why Gin Went From Murderous Swill To 007-Level Cool – Reprise Quill & Pad
Jul 31, 2021

Gincredible! How And Why Gin Went From Murderous Swill To 007-Level Cool – Reprise

In eighteenth-century England, a typical sign outside a gin shop read, “Drunk for a penny. Dead drunk for twopence. Clean straw for nothing.” But by the twentieth century Sir Winston Churchill reported that, “The gin and tonic has saved more Englishmen’s lives, and minds, than all the doctors in the Empire.” Ken Gargett fills his glass and takes a look at the evolution of gin. Cheers!

VIDEO: The Zenith Chronomaster Original Collection hits the sweet spot in three different forms Time+Tide
Zenith Chronomaster Original Collection hits Jul 29, 2021

VIDEO: The Zenith Chronomaster Original Collection hits the sweet spot in three different forms

In the 1960s, Zenith developed the El Primero to be the world’s first integrated automatic chronograph movement. Back then the world was crying out for innovation: new techniques, new designs, and new possibilities. Now watch buyers increasingly seem to appreciate tradition, vintage reissues and smaller sizes. The Zenith Chronomaster Original offers both progress and nostalgia … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Zenith Chronomaster Original Collection hits the sweet spot in three different forms appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

People are losing their minds about the way Bezos wore his Speedy in ‘space’, but the truth may be even sadder Time+Tide
Jul 21, 2021

People are losing their minds about the way Bezos wore his Speedy in ‘space’, but the truth may be even sadder

Over a quarter of a million people agreed with meme accounts like the one below when they declared that Bezos’ NATO over outer suit style was “the most f*cked up thing” he has ever done. The truth, however, may be even sadder (or cuter, depending on your viewpoint) than just an unfortunate styling faux pas. … ContinuedThe post People are losing their minds about the way Bezos wore his Speedy in ‘space’, but the truth may be even sadder appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

A. Lange & Söhne Brings Back the Langematik Perpetual SJX Watches
Casio ns like Jul 13, 2021

A. Lange & Söhne Brings Back the Langematik Perpetual

One of the biggest surprises amongst A. Lange & Söhne’s mid-year launches is the return of the Langematik Perpetual (the other being a Handwerkskunst in an unusual rectangular case). Launched two decades ago, the Langematik Perpetual is the brand’s longest-lived model – powered by the same movement from the start – though it’s been gradually phased out. Having discontinued the gold and platinum versions, Lange then introduced a limited edition in Honey Gold in 2019, and nothing else – until now. The Langematik Perpetual returns back in style as a pair – with a dark blue dial in either a white or pink gold case. Initial thoughts The reintroduction of the Langematik Perpetual is unexpected, especially given the two-year gap between this and the last version. In fact, that already seemed like a farewell model – it was a limited edition in Honey Gold, the proprietary alloy Lange usually reserved for special occasions, like the recent 175th Anniversary “Homage to F.A. Lange”. But the revival of Langematik Perpetual makes sense from a historical perspective, since 2021 marks the 20th anniversary of the model, which was the brand’s first perpetual calendar and a special one at the time of its launch, being the first perpetual calendar wristwatch with an oversized date display. At the same time, it’s heartening to see the return of an exceptionally fine, automatic movement. The cal. L922.1 “Sax-O-Mat” has an off-centre, almost-micro rotor that is in...

Meistersinger Bell Hora Hands-On Review WatchAdvice
Meistersinger Bell Hora Hands-On Review Jul 9, 2021

Meistersinger Bell Hora Hands-On Review

Time is precious. So are every moment. Slow down and savour the moment. Take a deep breath. Pause. Accuracy is important but today we place perhaps too much importance on being precise. But time is about moments, rather than each individual second. The moments are what we remember and whilst time shouldn’t be wasted, it should also be lived and enjoyed.  This is the philosophy behind Meistersinger watches. Its singled-handed-ness is designed to help you slow down time, to 5-minute increments, so that you no longer focus on the seconds, and rather, the important moments in your life. The precious moments, the ones that will live on forever. Even the logo of Meistersinger alludes to this: take the time and “pause”. It is indeed the musical symbol/notation for pause and is used to great effect in music. It can be the climax of the piece, it can be where you take a breath, to highlight a point in the music, the storytelling. It can make all the difference in a fast-paced, unrelenting allegro series of semiquavers and staccatos that is today’s lives. Pause. There comes a point in time where rushing is no longer needed nor wanted. Not everything is a race and the charge to the next point is more often than not irrelevant. It doesn’t matter in the grand scheme of things. Yes, punctuality is important but being punctual has nothing to do with rushing and accuracy.  Take the time to admire the surroundings. Look up. Look around. Look deep into something. Look at the wor...

Highlights: Sotheby’s ‘Fine Watches and Rare Sneakers’ Online Auction SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Calatrava Jul 6, 2021

Highlights: Sotheby’s ‘Fine Watches and Rare Sneakers’ Online Auction

Sotheby’s latest online sale is in a quirky combination of luxury watches and high-end sneakers – some of which cost more than the watches. Fortunately the large majority of the 164 lots are horological, with a selection of watches that’s diverse and interesting, led by a couple of heavyweight top lots. The heavyweights are quite literal, both complicated watches in platinum from brands widely regarded as benchmarks in contemporary watchmaking: an F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain with a platinum case and bracelet, along with the A. Lange & Söhne Zeitwerk Luminous “Phantom”. The sale also includes more esoteric watches that might be overlooked, including as a retailer-edition Patek Philippe Calatrava with ruby markers, and a Grand Seiko “First” remake in platinum. The Fine Watches and Rare Sneakers auction is live online from now until June 8, 2021. The full catalogue and registration for bidding are available here. Lot 8201 – F.P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain Platinum Introduced in 2004, the F. P. Journe Tourbillon Souverain was the successor to the original Tourbillon Remontoir d’Egalite. Like the original, the Tourbillon Souverain combined both a tourbillon regulator and constant force mechanism in a quest for accuracy. Its most obvious distinction against its predecessor was the small seconds at six linked to the remontoir mechanism. The Tourbillon Souverain itself was replaced in 2019 by something bigger and vertical, making it increasingly uncomm...

Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Jul 5, 2021

Rado Captain Cook High-Tech Ceramic Hands-on Review

Pros: Comfortable on the wrist for long periods of wearUnlike previous models, the R734 movement is on display – the best one to dateGreat Build quality, High-tech ceramic is a winner for captain cook range Cons: Some may find it thick on the wrist compared to the other captain cook varients The watch will wear big for wrist sizes smaller than 6.5 inches Some may not appreciate the blacked tinted sapphire crystal dial Over All Rating: 8.0/10 Value for money – 7.5/10Wearability – 8.0/10Design – 8/10Build Quality – 8.5/10 If there’s one watch brand that has earned the nickname “Master of Materials”, it is Rado. Being one of the biggest watch manufacturers in Switzerland, Rado uses the latest technology and innovation to create some unique materials for their watches.  Diving into the history of the brand, in 1960 they were the first to create the “world’s first scratchproof watch”, the DiaStar 1. This was done by innovation, through introducing materials into the watch industry that were not known at the time. Materials such as hard metal and sapphire crystal.  In 1970, Rado continued to innovate new materials by coming up with a scratch-resistant and high-tech ceramic bracelet called Rado Integral. This was arguably the first use of high-tech ceramic on a watch by Rado, and it would eventually become the brand’s signature material. In 1990, Rado really stepped things up in their use of ceramic, with this particular year being dubbed as “the cera...

Up Close: Ophion OPH 786 Vélos SJX Watches
Breguet numerals Jun 21, 2021

Up Close: Ophion OPH 786 Vélos

A Spanish brand that got its start in 2016, Ophion has refined its offerings substantially since then. Two years ago Ophion debuted its third and most accomplished model, the OPH 786 Vélos. Though based on the original OPH 786 that has a hand-wind movement with a five-day power reserve, the Vélos does everything better. While the design relies on familiar elements like Breguet numerals and teardrop lugs, the Vélos boasts notably fine details. The Breguet numerals, for instance, are applied and elegantly formed, while the guilloche is tidily engraved. But the Vélos gets there almost entirely by machine, mostly CNC milling, which means it is more affordable than it looks, with the guilloche version priced at about US$3,700. Initial thoughts The Vélos is a good looking watch. Admittedly, the look is fairly generic in its classical design, but it has charm, especially considering the quality of execution relative to the price. A strong value proposition is the best way to describe the Vélos. Even though it is made entirely by machine, the dial is the best feature of the watch. It boasts a strongly three-dimensional appearance, thanks to the substantially-sized appliqués. And because the dial parts are made by machine, they are precisely shaped, which gives it an expensive look. The movement is also a key factor behind the value proposition. It’s a solid calibre with useful features, including a five-day power reserve. And it has been extensively customised for ...

De Bethune Introduces the DB25GMT Starry Varius SJX Watches
De Bethune Introduces Jun 15, 2021

De Bethune Introduces the DB25GMT Starry Varius

While the pandemic is not entirely in the rearview mirror yet, international travel is recovering slowly but surely, so De Bethune’s latest arrives at an opportune time. The DB25GMT Starry Varius is a gently updated version of its dual time zone wristwatch – smaller, thinner, and lighter than the original, while also sporting the brand’s trademark “Starry Night” dial. More classical than the brand’s best-known models like the DB28 or DW5, the DB25GMT nonetheless incorporates details that are quintessentially De Bethune in addition to the celestial motif dial, helping it stand out amongst dual-time watches. Initial thoughts If money was no object, the first watch I would buy is my “grail”, the De Bethune DB25 Starry Varius Tourbillon. It has an ethereal quality and technical innovations that capture both the mind and heart. Unsurprisingly, I love the DB25GMT Starry Varius, which has a similar style but is more practical. The star-studded dial is a modest upgrade, but one that significantly improves the aesthetics of the brand’s original dual time-zone watch that was launched in 2016. Matching it with a travel-time complication makes sense as a historical reference, since explorers once depended on the stars for navigation – making the design feel like a match made in heaven (pun intended). The multiple-part dial gives the watch visual depth despite the clean layout, certainly making it one of the most captivating travel watches. But the new dual ...

Footballer Jesse Lingard had his watch stolen from locker while playing for West Ham Time+Tide
May 28, 2021

Footballer Jesse Lingard had his watch stolen from locker while playing for West Ham

There’s nothing worse than having something stolen. You discover your possession isn’t where you left it. Self-doubt creeps in and you feel like you’re going crazy. You search everywhere in case it’s moved, with the growing feeling that you must have forgotten where you actually put it… That’s exactly the feeling football player Jesse Lingard … ContinuedThe post Footballer Jesse Lingard had his watch stolen from locker while playing for West Ham appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Zenith Defy Extreme Hands-on Review WatchAdvice
Zenith Defy Extreme Hands-on Review May 25, 2021

Zenith Defy Extreme Hands-on Review

Pros: Love the easy quick change strap systemScrew-in crown and 200m water resistance Sapphire dial and increased legibility  Cons: Wrist sizes smaller than 6.5ich won’t be able to enjoy the 45mm case size Some may find it to be too thick on the wrist Some may find it expensive compared to Defy 21 range Over All Rating: 8.4/10 Value for money – 8.0/10Wearability – 8.0/10Design – 9/10Build Quality – 8.5/10 If there is one phrase I don’t hear enough of, it’s “put the watch on your wrist”, as that is where it’s meant to go, and that is the best place to judge whether a watch suits you or not. Watches are immensely personal, and quite often how it wears and how it looks on your wrist is completely different to how a watch looks on a fancily posed, laid out and propped image on Instagram. Always try the watch on.  Reference : 95.9100.9004/01.I001 on a 6.5 inch wrist However, isn’t this the case today? We scroll through images, each getting perhaps a fraction of a second of attention, and even if we do stop to read the text, it’s a quick skim, and then, just as quickly, a comment is left, and without any further thought, we move on to the next shiny new thing. Before touching or even seeing something in person, a judgement call is made.  Reference : 87.9100.9004/03.I001 on a 6.5 inch wrist The Zenith Defy Extreme is one such watch where it was dismissed online too quickly because of a number (in this case the diameter), which many deemed too high up...

Up Close: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying May 17, 2021

Up Close: Audemars Piguet Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph

Launched just last year, the Code 11.59 Selfwinding Flying Tourbillon Chronograph is the flagship model in Audemars Piguet’s oft-discussed line of run watches. Executed well in almost every way, the Code 11.59 Tourbillon Chronograph underscores the potential of the family. But more importantly, the watch encapsulates AP’s strengths. Despite being known largely for the Royal Oak, and widely criticised for the Code 11.59 and then the Royal Oak Concept Black Panther, AP remains AP. The brand is a long-established, top-tier watchmaker that knows how to make fine watches. That is amply evident in the Code 11.59 Tourbillon Chronograph. Initial thoughts The Code 11.59 was widely panned online at launch, though the virtual mob’s rage was overdone, taking the weakness of specific models and generalising it across the entire line. The dials on the three-hander and chronograph were bland, but the other models were more appealing. But the Code is in fact an impressive collection in terms of finish and construction – though some dials still can be improved – especially the octagon-within-a-circle case that’s difficult to appreciate in photos. But the Code 11.59 has gained traction since, especially with the subsequent facelifts that combined smoked, lacquered dials and two-tone cases that immediately made the watch more attractive. At the same time, highly complicated models have joined the line up, including the open-worked tourbillon and Grande Sonnerie, which add to...

Cohiba Maduro 5: Some Of The Most Faked Cigars In The World (For Good Reason) – Reprise Quill & Pad
Apr 24, 2021

Cohiba Maduro 5: Some Of The Most Faked Cigars In The World (For Good Reason) – Reprise

The Cohiba Maduro 5 consists of three cigars – all using maduro leaf as wrapper, which gives the cigars a much darker, almost chocolaty appearance. These are upper leaves that have been through fermentation but have seen five years' worth of aging, more than twice the norm. And that's only part of why Ken Gargett thinks these Cuban cigars are so special.