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Van Cleef & Arpels Pierre Arpels: An Intertwined History – Reprise Quill & Pad
Cartier Jan 29, 2020

Van Cleef & Arpels Pierre Arpels: An Intertwined History – Reprise

Many of the great marques in the history of watchmaking were driven by prominent figures who ended up with a watch named after them. Such was the case for both Louis Cartier and Pierre Arpels. Both were born into jewelry and watch dynasties and both made prominent marks on the histories of their respective houses. How else are they intertwined? Martin Green explains here.

RECOMMENDED READING: Why double-signed Rolex and Patek Philippe dials are so interesting Time+Tide
Patek Philippe dials are so interesting Jan 26, 2020

RECOMMENDED READING: Why double-signed Rolex and Patek Philippe dials are so interesting

Double-signed dials are the perfect example of how the details of a watch are sometimes the most interesting, revealing not just where a watch might have been sold, but opening up a window into the past to expose key relationships and macroeconomic trends that affected how the business of selling watches was done. Double-signed dials … ContinuedThe post RECOMMENDED READING: Why double-signed Rolex and Patek Philippe dials are so interesting appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Weekend watch spotting with JR: featuring the Rose and the Crown Time+Tide
Tudor Black Bay GMT Danny Jan 12, 2020

Weekend watch spotting with JR: featuring the Rose and the Crown

This weekend, I wore my Swatch Sistem51 Hodinkee Generation 1986 and went out in search of what other like-minded individuals had decided to attach to their wrist, and this is what I found out in the wild: Danny’s Tudor Black Bay GMT Danny has lusted after Rolex’s GMT-Master II Ref.126710BLRO ever since it was first … ContinuedThe post Weekend watch spotting with JR: featuring the Rose and the Crown appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The clairvoyant watch collector – which brand will establish itself as a big player in the next decade? Time+Tide
Tudor watches What followed Dec 30, 2019

The clairvoyant watch collector – which brand will establish itself as a big player in the next decade?

In 2009, Rolex performed a miracle. Necromancy. A resurrection. Back from the dead was the oft-maligned sister brand of the Crown: Tudor watches. What followed in the seven years since was the most startling and effective rebrand the world of watches has ever seen. And thanks to an immense financial investment and influential vocal advocacy, … ContinuedThe post The clairvoyant watch collector – which brand will establish itself as a big player in the next decade? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

6 of the best fashion watch brands that are serious watchmakers Time+Tide
Dec 27, 2019

6 of the best fashion watch brands that are serious watchmakers

For lovers of Haute Horlogerie, the term “fashion watch” is often akin to a cuss word. But one doesn’t have to dig very far into the history of fine watchmaking to realise just how much we have to thank fashion labels for, and how the best fashion watch brands are serious watchmakers. In the 1980s, … ContinuedThe post 6 of the best fashion watch brands that are serious watchmakers appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

3 things you never knew about the Patek Philippe Nautilus Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak … ContinuedThe Dec 22, 2019

3 things you never knew about the Patek Philippe Nautilus

The Patek Philippe Nautilus forms the basis of this historic brand’s sports collection, which rivals the very best in the business. And the genesis of this iconic model shares its history with another legendary sports watch, further cementing the status of the man behind both pieces. Designed by Gérald Genta, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak … ContinuedThe post 3 things you never knew about the Patek Philippe Nautilus appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: A week on the wrist with the Apple Watch Series 5 Time+Tide
Dec 19, 2019

VIDEO: A week on the wrist with the Apple Watch Series 5

There have only ever been three smart watch reviews in the three thousand review history of Time+Tide. Which makes this review special. The reason we wanted to get our hands on one of the latest Apple Watch Series 5 models was the host of new features, including some new and luxurious materials, many of which … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: A week on the wrist with the Apple Watch Series 5 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGA407 Snowflake blue Time+Tide
Grand Seiko SBGA407 Snowflake blue USP Dec 17, 2019

HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGA407 Snowflake blue

USP – the acronym for “unique selling point”. A watchmaker’s USP is paramount to their success, and if you look at the general consensus of what’s considered the best brands out there, they’ve all got it - they each excel at something that puts them a cut above the rest. Whether it’s Rolex and their storied … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Grand Seiko SBGA407 Snowflake blue appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

50 Years Of Automatic Chronographs And The Recent Debuts From Zenith, TAG Heuer, And Seiko Commemorating The Milestone Invention(s) Quill & Pad
TAG Heuer Dec 13, 2019

50 Years Of Automatic Chronographs And The Recent Debuts From Zenith, TAG Heuer, And Seiko Commemorating The Milestone Invention(s)

1969 marked the introduction of the world’s first self-winding chronographs. These were presented by Zenith with its El Primero, Seiko with the 5 Speedtimer, and an illustrious group consisting of Breitling, Heuer/Leonidas, and Hamilton/Büren, with the Chronomatic Caliber 11. Sabine Zwettler takes us through the history and looks at three of the latest-generation commemorative automatic chronographs by these early pioneers.

HANDS-ON: The Longines Heritage Classic Time+Tide
Longines Heritage Classic Few watches Dec 7, 2019

HANDS-ON: The Longines Heritage Classic

Few watches released in 2019 have had the ability to garner nothing but praise. There are, of course, certain timepieces that are highly revered - think the new Rolex GMT-Master II ref.126710BLNR, for example. But that watch brings with it a sizeable amount of polarity. No, for the entire horological community to get behind a new … ContinuedThe post HANDS-ON: The Longines Heritage Classic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

What Sealed The Deal – James’ Vertex MP45 chronograph Time+Tide
Vertex Dec 4, 2019

What Sealed The Deal – James’ Vertex MP45 chronograph

Vertex is a brand with a wonderful history. Founded in 1916 by Claude Lyons, the brand produced watches for Allied troops in the Second World War, following the specifications of the British Ministry of Defence, alongside 11 other brands (a group of manufacturers now known by collectors as the Dirty Dozen). The brand continued to … ContinuedThe post What Sealed The Deal – James’ Vertex MP45 chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

VIDEO: The Rado Captain Cook comes correct Time+Tide
Rado Captain Cook comes correct Nov 15, 2019

VIDEO: The Rado Captain Cook comes correct

First released in 1962, the Rado Captain Cook offers firepower on the wrist, as well as more than half a century of rich history. The initial production numbers may have been small during the swinging ’60s, but the Captain Cook left its mark on dive watch enthusiasts around the world, and in 2017 Rado treated … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: The Rado Captain Cook comes correct appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

TAG Heuer bids adieu to the Monaco Calibre 12 with a Final Edition Time+Tide
TAG Heuer bids adieu Nov 12, 2019

TAG Heuer bids adieu to the Monaco Calibre 12 with a Final Edition

TAG Heuer has just unveiled the all-new Monaco 02, and it’s a big deal because it’s the first Monaco in the storied watch’s 50-year history to utilise a completely in-house movement. As a result, the Swiss watchmaker is kissing goodbye to the old Sellita SW300-based Calibre 12 movement, which has been a stalwart of the … ContinuedThe post TAG Heuer bids adieu to the Monaco Calibre 12 with a Final Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Monaco 02 Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Monaco 02 TAG Heuer’s Nov 10, 2019

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Monaco 02

TAG Heuer’s fabled Monaco wristwatch, a timepiece immortalised in the annals of motorsport as a result of Steve McQueen sporting one in the 1971 film Le Mans, is for the first time in its history being produced with an in-house movement. That’s right, whether you were aware of it or not, the TAG Heuer Monaco … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Monaco 02 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Rediscovering the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph Time+Tide
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph Editor’s note Nov 10, 2019

Rediscovering the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph

Editor’s note: If you’re in the market for a steel sports watch with a chronograph complication, you really are spoilt for choice. Rolex’s Daytona, Omega’s Speedmaster, Tudor’s Black Bay Chronograph … the list goes on. However, if you’re looking for a timepiece that meets all of the aforementioned criteria, while still possessing a real and genuine … ContinuedThe post Rediscovering the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

The Most Expensive Watch Ever – Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime in Steel for CHF31m SJX Watches
Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime Nov 9, 2019

The Most Expensive Watch Ever – Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime in Steel for CHF31m

The Patek Philippe Grandmaster Chime ref. 6300A made for Only Watch 2019 has just made history by selling for 31m Swiss francs – selling to a new face at watch auctions – topping the 23m francs achieved by the Henry Graves Supercomplication and the 17m francs of Paul Newman’s “Paul Newman” Daytona. Before the Grandmaster Chime sold for the record-setting sum, I wrote: A major, outsized finish of 12m or 15m francs, or even more, is possible but only likely if an unexpected, deep-pocketed bidder buys the watch, or manages to push the winner further than expected. I was way off the mark value-wise, but at least half right. The bidding opened with room bids, first a 5m franc bid from gem dealer and auction veteran Claude Sfeir, followed by 10m francs from a prominent SE Asian collector. But the action swiftly moved to phone bidders, all bidding via Christie’s representatives, including Stéphane Von Bueren of the watch department in Geneva. It was a prolonged tussle – with bidding rising in 500,000 franc increments – between Mr Von Bueren’s client and another represented by Wei-Ting Jud of Christie’s London. Once bidding hit 17m francs, there was brief applause as the watch topped the record of Paul Newman’s Rolex Daytona. At 22.5m francs, a new bidder jumped in, represented by Max Fawcett of Christie’s Geneva. From there it was Mr Fawcett against Ms Jud – and another round of applause when the watch surpassed the record set by the Graves Supercompli...

A Moment In Watch History: Piaget x François-Paul Journe – Reprise Quill & Pad
F.P. Journe yet Please enjoy Nov 9, 2019

A Moment In Watch History: Piaget x François-Paul Journe – Reprise

In 1995 Piaget, who was then part of the Vendôme group that would later become Richemont, entered the highest segment of the watch market by releasing a grande sonnerie wristwatch developed by François-Paul Journe. At the time, Journe was a freelance movement designer and hadn’t officially founded F.P. Journe yet. Please enjoy this little-known moment in watch history!

Taking flight with the Breguet Type XX, XXI and XXII Time+Tide
Breguet Type XX XXI Nov 6, 2019

Taking flight with the Breguet Type XX, XXI and XXII

Initially created for the French Ministry of Defence for the French Air Force, the Breguet Type XX, XXI and XXII are timekeeping devices steeped in the history of aviation-specific wristwatches. First released in 1954, the Type XX was the first aviation watch ever created by the storied Swiss watchmaker, who specifically produced the timepiece at … ContinuedThe post Taking flight with the Breguet Type XX, XXI and XXII appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Changes at Time+Tide, Felix stepping down as editor, new faces in the team Time+Tide
Oct 31, 2019

Changes at Time+Tide, Felix stepping down as editor, new faces in the team

Today is a big moment in the short history of Time+Tide. It’s the day we bid farewell to Felix, who is stepping down from his role as Editor. We know that this will be sad news for many readers and viewers who have enjoyed all of the stories, videos and sass, delivered just about all … ContinuedThe post Changes at Time+Tide, Felix stepping down as editor, new faces in the team appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Monaco 2009-2019 Limited Edition Time+Tide
TAG Heuer Monaco 2009-2019 Limited Edition Oct 30, 2019

INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Monaco 2009-2019 Limited Edition

TAG Heuer has unveiled the fifth and final iteration of its limited edition series of timepieces celebrating 50 years of the heroic Monaco wristwatch. Like the rest of the limited-run watches, which each celebrate a separate decade in the history of the Monaco since its inception in 1969, the 2009-2019 example will be limited to … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The TAG Heuer Monaco 2009-2019 Limited Edition appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Rolex Unicorns Part I – Ref. 4113 Split-Seconds Chronograph SJX Watches
Zenith Daytonas Oct 10, 2019

Rolex Unicorns Part I – Ref. 4113 Split-Seconds Chronograph

If I had a million dollars, or maybe two, to buy a Rolex chronograph, I could perhaps buy one of the five unique “Zenith” Daytonas in platinum, a Datocompax “Jean-Claude Killy” (as Davide Munari did), a “Paul Newman” Daytona (not), or a ref. 4113 split-seconds. Of the many ways to spend that much money on a Rolex chronograph – and not any other complication – the ref. 4113 is the most unusual, interesting and horologically complex. At the same time, the ref. 4113 was also a dead-end for Rolex, because it never furthered development of the split-second chronograph and instead relied on standard chronographs for all its auto-racing activities. Produced in 1942 in a run of just 12 watches – with case numbers “051’313” to “051’324” -the ref. 4113 is the only split-seconds, or rattrapante, chronograph ever made by Rolex. Phillips will soon sell ref. 4113 with case number “051’318” – the watch pictured here – at its upcoming November watch auction. Ref. 4113 with case number “051’318” The Valjoux 55 inside The racing connection Though formal documentation as to its origins no longer exist or are unknown, the story behind the ref. 4113 is by now familiar thanks to research over the years as examples emerged at auction. In 1991, a pair of these emerged at Christie’s, at its Geneva and London salerooms respectively. The first, with case number was “051’313”, was sold in May 1991 at Christie’s in Geneva for 82,500 Swiss fr...

Business News: Rolex to Replace New York Headquarters with 25-Storey Building SJX Watches
Audemars Piguet museum according Oct 9, 2019

Business News: Rolex to Replace New York Headquarters with 25-Storey Building

A year after the opening of the Rolex Building in Dallas, designed by Japanese architect Kengo Kuma, London-based David Chipperfield Architects just announced it won an international design contest for the new Rolex skyscraper in New York City, beating out big names like Foster+Partners and Bjarke Ingels Group (which designed the new Audemars Piguet museum), according to industry publication Architects’ Journal. “Our team is committed to creating an exemplary building befitting the heritage and culture of the Rolex brand, as well as its prominent 5th Avenue location,” says Mr Chipperfield, speaking in the press announcement. Modernist and fronted entirely in glass, much like the rest of its work, the Chipperfield design will replace the watchmaker’s existing building located at 665 5th Avenue, on the corner with 53rd Street. Originally built for Danish silversmith Georg Jensen in 1924, the 12-storey building was revamped with a glass and aluminium facade when Rolex acquired it in 1977 for its American headquarters. The current Rolex Building, home to the company since the 1970s. Image – Google Maps A rendering of the new Rolex Building. Image – David Chipperfield Architects According to industry lore, the then chief executive of Rolex, Andre Heiniger, decided to buy the 5th Avenue building during a visit to the United States, closing the deal before getting the approval of the company’s board. Heiniger also led Rolex to acquire several dozen lo...

INTRODUCING: The Bremont H-4 Hercules  Time+Tide
Bremont H-4 Hercules  Oct 9, 2019

INTRODUCING: The Bremont H-4 Hercules 

The history of aviation is full of famous planes. For better or worse, planes like the Spirit of St. Louis, the Enola Gay and the Southern Cross are landmark machines in the evolution of the flying machine. But few vehicles loom larger in popular culture (or indeed reality) than the epic H-4 Hercules, popularly known … ContinuedThe post INTRODUCING: The Bremont H-4 Hercules  appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

5 questions about the GPHG you were too afraid to ask, including how voting works Time+Tide
Sep 29, 2019

5 questions about the GPHG you were too afraid to ask, including how voting works

This year, for the first time in history, the complete collection of nominees for the 2019 GPHG – the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève - were presented in Australia. All 84 of them, by a sum total of 50 brands. And this stellar mega-team, worth well over $30 million AUD, is visiting only four locations before … ContinuedThe post 5 questions about the GPHG you were too afraid to ask, including how voting works appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.

Looking back at the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Time+Tide
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph Editor’s Sep 29, 2019

Looking back at the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph

Editor’s note: Audemars Piguet’s Royal Oak is unquestionably one of the most important wristwatches of all time and it is steeped in history for so many reasons. For a start, the unique aesthetics of the now iconic watch and integrated bracelet were designed by the doyen of horological design, Gérald Genta, in less than 24 hours. … ContinuedThe post Looking back at the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.