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New Watches Beyond Pal Expo, Geneva 2024 – Stanley’s Top Pick
Here we are as promised on the top picks outside of Pal Expo! I will be covering independent brands in Beau Rivage during the week of Watches and Wonders 2024.
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Deployant
Here we are as promised on the top picks outside of Pal Expo! I will be covering independent brands in Beau Rivage during the week of Watches and Wonders 2024.
Worn & Wound
Piaget is having a major moment in the watch industry right now. Its core design language-with bold aesthetics and a distinctly 1970s flair-is very en vogue, and it’s celebrating a milestone anniversary: 150 years. The brand kicked off the year with the Polo 79, a thoroughly modern interpretation of its very first Polo from 1979. Now, we get another extension of the beloved Polo line in the form of a pair of Polo dates and a new Altiplano that puts Piaget’s proficiency in the realm of ultra-thin calibers on full display. The Polo is a collection that strikes that perfect balance of utility and style. As the name suggests, its roots trace back to the sport, and the original hails from the peak era of luxury sport watches. However, from the onset, Piaget gave the model a sophisticated edge with the use of precious metal, yellow gold to be exact from the original 1979 model. In the four decades since its initial debut, Piaget has iterated on the Polo in many forms, including the introduction of a more traditional stainless steel variation with the Polo S in 2016. With the two new additions to the Polo lineup (each limited to just 300 pieces), we get that classic stainless steel build along with the addition of a sporty rubber strap in place of the integrated bracelet. However, Piaget elevates each model with the incorporation of rose gold accents on the hands, hour markers, and date window. The 150th anniversary Polo Date comes in two sizes: 42mm and 36mm. I’m a r...
Worn & Wound
Andrew Benzer has around twenty or thirty watches he’d like to get rid of at any given time. The longtime reader and friend of Worn & Wound’s slough pile would form an impressive collection on its own, complete with grail watches like an Omega Speedmaster Professional. The watches he holds on to are even more varied and impressive. “I love watches, I love different kinds of watches,” said Andrew in an interview. “There is no other experience that’s akin to actually having something on your wrist for an extended period of time. And as a result, I have acquired probably more watches than most people would like to admit.” That collection is in the range of 60 to 70 watches and major names like Tudor, Omega, Zenith, and Grand Seiko, and smaller brands like Brew, Ming, and Halios. But like so many watch enthusiasts, for Andrew it all started with Timex and Seiko. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Andrew Benzer (@vintage1982benz) “My godfather gifted me a Timex for my first communion,” Andrew recalled. “And I remember just thinking it was the coolest thing in the world, it made me feel so grown up. I would wear it to school every day, I wore that thing until the plastic band basically disintegrated. And just from a very practical standpoint, I always thought a person should have a watch, you should know what time it is. This is in the 80s and 90s and well before smartphones and everything.” Timex led to Casio, Casio led to Fossil, and Fos...
SJX Watches
In an unsurprising move given recent fads, Piaget just announced the Polo 79, a yellow gold wristwatch that is essentially a remake of the original, with a slightly larger case that captures the proportions of the original and an impressively slim movement. Initial thoughts The Polo 79 is a predictable launch, coming shortly after the Vacheron Constantin 222 and IWC Ingenieur, which are of course products of Piaget’s sister companies. The new Polo sticks to the same formula, gently updating the aesthetics and installing a new movement, but largely preserving the same design. So the Polo 79 can’t be commended for creativity, but it is executed well. That said, creating a new design in the spirit of the original – namely geometric forms, slim, and sporty – would have certainly made it a more interesting watch. The Polo 79 is slightly larger than the original, but substantially thicker thanks to a self-winding movement. The original, on the other hand, was equipped with the quartz cal. 7P, an incredibly thin movement that fit the trends of the time. The increase in size means the new Polo feels like a bulked up version of the original, which was small and flat in keeping with 1980s style. To accommodate modern tastes, the Polo 79 sacrifices the thinness of the original. That is regrettable but forgivable, since it would not be possible to achieve sufficient water resistance (the Polo 79 is rated to 50 m) as well as automatic winding in the dimensions of the original c...
Fratello
Don’t look so surprised! You already knew exactly which watches would go head to head in this week’s Sunday Morning Showdown. The Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 was probably the watch that was most frequently mentioned after Piaget released its new Polo 79 this week. And it makes sense. They’re both based on an earlier version […] Visit Sunday Morning Showdown: Piaget Polo 79 Vs. Vacheron Constantin Historiques 222 to read the full article.
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Time+Tide
Zach reminisces his time at Piaget with the new rubber-clad Polo.The post This Polo Field is a watch that Piaget should have made years ago appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
In the early 1950s, Blancpain’s CEO Jean-Jacques Fiechter was diving off the coast of Cannes when he lost track of time. It almost proved a fatal mistake as Fiechter ran out of air and almost died. That near-death experience motivated him to try and create a reliable instrument that could enable divers to monitor their … ContinuedThe post Why Blancpain’s epic marketing flex didn’t involve a single watch appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Quill & Pad
There are many styles of sherry, but there is one which is perhaps the most perplexing and confusing of all – Palo Cortado. An accidental wine if ever there was one, but a glorious one. Ken Gargett explains.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: As soon as Invicta is mentioned in the presence of watch enthusiasts, jests and jeers are inevitable. The brand has long strayed from its centuries-old heritage and has since evolved into a mall and QVC/TV-peddled watch brand largely known for affordable homage-driven designs. But Kieran, a recent addition to the Time+Tide team, has done something … ContinuedThe post Invicta on pole position with a marketing masterclass in Formula 2 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
When I was young, just like many other kids, I dreamed of being a fighter pilot. Perhaps it was the infectiously catchy Kenny Loggins song that I imagined playing in the cockpit whilst dog-fighting with my friends at high speed, or maybe it was my dream of having a legitimately cool call-sign, “Elektra” perhaps. Whatever … ContinuedThe post Big Watches, Small Wrists Part III: Can I pull off a pilot’s watch? appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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SJX Watches
Having redesigned the Polo to suit contemporary tastes in 2016, Piaget now debuts most complicated watch in its sports watch line, the Polo Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin. With a steel case just 8.65 mm high, it’s dressed in the very current shade of dark green. Though the complication isn’t new for Piaget or even luxury-sports watches more broadly, the perpetual calendar takes the Polo into new territory as an upscale, complicated watch. The model was introduced in 1979 as a chunky watch with a geometric design rendered entirely in yellow gold, reflecting the popular style of the era. Today’s Polo bears little resemblance to its historical namesake and instead opts for a design in tune with today’s preference for sports watches in that aren’t round. Initial thoughts The new perpetual calendar is essentially the same proposition as its simpler brethren in the Polo line – a design and complication similar to more established luxury-sports watches, but at a more affordable price. So it has a patterned dial, cushion-shaped case, matching steel bracelet, and a retail price of US$58,500. That’s a reasonable ask considering its intrinsic features like finishing and complication. On the other hand, the Patek Philippe Nautilus ref. 5740/1G or recently launched Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin ref. 26586TI cost well into the six figures – but they are also more sophisticated mechanically and executed with much more refinement. In short,...
Worn & Wound
The trend toward ultra-thin highly complicated watches has reached a fever pitch in recent years, and there’s no sign of that trend slowing anytime soon. Piaget has been at the forefront of ultra-thin watches for many decades, most recently claiming the world’s thinnest mechanical watch with their Altiplano Ultimate Concept in 2020 (which was subsequently broken by Bulgari, and then Richard Mille). This year, they’re returning to the ultra-thin game with a new Polo Perpetual Calendar that measures a mere 8.56mm in thickness. This marks the first appearance of the perpetual calendar complication within the current generation of the Polo, and it should come as no surprise that it works rather well. The Piaget Polo was redesigned in 2016 with a more refined presentation of their sports watch language. The round case features a slightly squared, TV shaped dial opening creating just enough tension to set it apart in a crowd. This was a notable departure from earlier Polo designs, which have never been shy about embracing their era. The newest Polo design feels timeless to my eye, but history will be the judge there. The design has shown flexibility, with the openworked Skeleton Automatic, and even on the very high end housing the brand’s ornate minute repeater in this Polo Emperador. The Polo Perpetual Calendar is the most complex Polo to date, and effectively uses the 42mm case to showcase their take on the QP. The information is presented in a clear and easy to unde...
Deployant
The petite seconde configuration and flat case with stepped bezel is a stylistic homage to vintage timepieces. It echoes the era of fixed lugs monobloc cases that were once made from nickel plated brass. The spade hands and arabic numerals are flanked by a railroad minutes track which matches the classic look. While this may have to do with branding, a simpler logo without the large POLO font could have added more balance to the dial which favors the more subdued look. Otherwise, we welcome Polo Ralph Lauren's new Vintage 67 which acts as an avenue to initiate fashion lovers to the world of watchmaking, starting with the fine handwinding La Joux Perret movement. The watch is priced at US$2,700.
Quill & Pad
The third edition of the sunny, COVID-19-friendly Geneva Watch Days came to a close on September 2, so of course we must talk about it. And this time we brought our friends Robert-Jan Broer of Fratello and Łukasz Doskocz of CH24! Please join this Quill & Pad round table discussion of what we did and didn’t like at Geneva Watch Days 2022.
Time+Tide
EDITOR’S NOTE: There are some members of the Time+Tide team whose watch collection seems to change on a monthly basis. There are constant purchases, trades, U-turns, I-can’t-believe-I-did-that moments. Their sheer love of watches means the horological merry-go-round never stops. Our deputy editor Zach is one of those guys. Here, he reflects on one time he … ContinuedThe post EDITOR’S PICK: Why I didn’t trade my collection for a Patek Philippe 5066 Aquanaut appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Quill & Pad
Please join this Quill & Pad round table discussion in which we discuss what we did and didn’t like at the inaugural (and hopefully final) digital edition of Watches and Wonders Geneva 2021. There were plenty of highs and more than a few lows during the week-long watch fest, and a sheer avalanche of new watches.
Time+Tide
Editor’s note: Last night, Brad Pitt won the 2020 Oscar for Best Supporting Actor for his role as Cliff Booth in the Quentin Tarantino thriller Once Upon A Time In Hollywood. While his tailored shirt cuff didn’t reveal his watch during his acceptance speech, if he was wearing one we can be fairly confident it … ContinuedThe post Brad Pitt didn’t wear a watch to accept his 2020 Oscar, but he wore this in his award-winning performance appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
The watch industry is nothing if not traditional - and this habitualness extends into the realm of brand partnerships. Formula 1, tennis, car brands, yachting, the Olympics and other top-tier aspirational sporting and cultural events. These are the happy hunting grounds for Swiss marketing executives hoping to leverage a new audience for their finely wrought, … ContinuedThe post Why Hublot’s pitch at cricket is a smart play appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
Living the dream is a phrase overused to a point of meaninglessness. But make no mistake about it, Chris Hemsworth is living the dream. We meet on a yacht in Port Hercules, Monaco, hosted by TAG Heuer. It is to be our home for the next few nights as the Monaco Formula 1 takes place … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Chris Hemsworth wants to be remembered as a dad “who didn’t have his head stuck in his phone” (like Matt Damon here), and he wears his Heuer-01 surfing appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Time+Tide
There’s a reason chronographs are one of the most perennially popular watch complications – they add a lot to a watch. Functionality, interesting design elements, and a sense of derring-do, thanks to the chronograph’s close association with the exciting and glamorous worlds of motorsports, aviation and general athletic endeavour. Most importantly though, they add a … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: Play of light – Raymond Weil’s Freelancer Chronograph appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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Time+Tide
You never know who you’re going to bump into in the halls of a watch fair like SIHH. Apart from when you get a tipoff in your schedule that a celebrity will be at a booth at a certain time, and you get there early with your cameraman to make sure you make something happen. … ContinuedThe post VIDEO: 5 Things you probably didn’t know about Ryan Reynolds and his watches appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Deployant
Panerai and Mike Horn on another adventure: circumnavigating the globe from pole2pole with Luminor Submersible 1950 3 Days GMT Automatic Titanio PAM00719.
Time+Tide
If you’re in Australia and a fan of Seiko, we have good news; you are in luck. Until this Wednesday, the brand has some of their most exclusive and high-end pieces on display – we’ve picked out five of our favourites. So, if you already know all about the Micro Artists Studio and want to see … ContinuedThe post LIST: 5 things you (probably) didn’t know about 5 (very) special Seiko watches you can see in Sydney right now appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
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The limited edition Panerai PAM 578 Lo Scienziato Luminor 1950 Tourbillon GMT Titanio for SIHH 2016, featuring a new method of case construction
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Introducing two brand new models for Watches and Wonders 2015: The Panerai Luminor 1950 3 Days Titanio DLC PAM 617 and PAM 629
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