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Time+Tide
Hublot's material achievements continue with a first that's perhaps unsurprising, considering their mastery of ceramic.The post Hublot launches world’s first multi-coloured ceramic watch – the Big Bang Unico Magic Ceramic appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
Fratello
Of course, we can’t buy all the watches in the world, and not all watches are within our budgets. So, especially as someone who professionally writes about watches, I’ve learned to appreciate ones that are not in my financial scope or simply not my style. In some cases, that’s harder to do than in others. […] Visit Introducing: Bvlgari And MB&F; Turn The Serpenti Into A Horological Machine to read the full article.
Monochrome
Less than two months… This is the time left before the main watch fair of the year, also known as Watches and Wonders Geneva 2025 – starting April 1st, 2025. Something that has become more than a tradition but a highly anticipated event in our yearly publication calendar, the MONOCHROME team has gotten creative to […]
Teddy Baldassarre
After a relatively short time in the international market — and an even shorter time as a truly independent brand rather than an elevated product family — Grand Seiko has indisputably come into its own as a top-tier luxury watchmaker. Despite the inescapable fact that it still shares ownership and an industrial base with the parent Seiko brand, Grand Seiko has successfully put distance between its high-end output and Seiko’s more accessible, mass-market offerings. In fact, one could argue that enthusiasts and collectors have largely pigeonholed Grand Seiko as the luxurious, elegant dress watch brand and “Regular” Seiko as the sports- and tool-watch brand. But this perception would not be entirely accurate. Grand Seiko makes its own fair share of sporty timepieces with robustly built cases, less-than-modest case dimensions, and practical functions and complications, despite packaging all of these attributes into timepieces that are distinctly more luxurious — and accordingly more pricey — than their Seiko counterparts. Most of these watches fall within the aptly named Sport collection, which made its official debut in 2017, the same year that Grand Seiko established itself as its own brand. The roots of the Sport family DNA reach back significantly further — starting in 1998, with the launch of the Caliber 9S5 inside the first automatic Grand Seiko in more than 20 years, and continuing through the introduction of the first Grand Seiko model with a GMT func...
WatchAdvice
This is a Hands-On Review with a difference. Why? Because this time, we are giving this very watch away with our friends at Fuel Asset Finance and Wallace Bishop Jewellers! What We Love A great tribute piece for F1 enthusiasts Wears well and smaller than the specs suggest The 1/100th second-hand is a bit of fun and something not all that common on chronographs What We Don’t Probably won’t suit everyone as an everyday piece The dial is a little busy, but still legible The quartz movement may not be for you if you love mechanical watches Overall Score: 8.1 / 10 Value for Money: 7.5/10 Wearability: 8.5/10 Design: 8/10 Build Quality: 8.5/10 Formula One over the past few years has seen a massive resurgence in popularity mostly thanks to the Netflix show Drive to Survive. And with the 2025 F1 season fast approaching next month, it will probably be another massive year with a long, jampacked calendar. And, as we have reported on previously TAG Heuer is now the new official timing partner for the next 10 years, so this review seems timely! We recently saw TAG Heuer release their new range of Formula 1 chronographs at LVMH watch week in January, but today we are looking at the limited edition TAG Heuer Formula 1 x Oracle Red Bull Racing limited edition chronograph that was released last year and the very watch that we are giving away in conjunction with Fuel Asset Finance and Wallace Bishop. So not only is this a review of this piece, but it’s a piece that you can go into...
Worn & Wound
There’s no sports watch that I have a stronger connection to than the Zenith Defy. I’ve long told anyone who would listen that the Defy is, bar none, my favorite sports watch collection. From its inception, the Defy has been a watch associated with pushing both design and watchmaking boundaries, through the use of uncommon materials, avant-garde designs, and over-the-top specs. For whatever sports watch from a major Swiss brand you can name, I could probably think of a Defy that matches it in terms of what it can do, and eclipses it in terms of the always hard to quantify cool factor. Yes, of course this is subjective. But, I mean, is it really? Now that we’ve established that I love the Defy potentially all out of proportion, we can consider the latest entry in the growing collection, the Defy Skyline Chronograph Skeleton. This is a combination of words that were always meant to meet in the form of a Defy – the writing has been on the wall since the intro of the first Defy Skyline, or least since the introduction of the Skyline Chronograph. One of the nice things about the Defy, as a collection, is that it truly offers a different flavor of the core watch for every taste, with dials that are skeletonized, or not, cases that are made from steel, or ceramic, and now chronographs offering some of those same decision points. My feelings on the Defy Skyline collection oscillate quite a bit. Whenever I put one on, I can’t help but compare it in my mind to the Defy...
Fratello
Buying an engagement ring for my now-wife was not a problem at all. That’s because I never intended to do so. I have often had problems with stereotypes and boxed solutions, so it’s no wonder I was looking for something different than an engagement ring. Guess what… I google a lot. I google watches a […] Visit Retrospective: Tomas Reveals His Secret And Very Personal Collection Of Kasper Watches to read the full article.
Monochrome
A light rhythmic beat of a snare drum hits your ears, the deep thumps of the bass drum join in, and the chime of the cymbals rounds it off. A trumpeter starts improvising on the beat, ebbing and flowing back and forth in pace, producing a melody that resonates deep within your soul. Then, all […]
Teddy Baldassarre
For those in the know, Breguet is a name in the history of watchmaking that commands instant respect, and even reverence. The brand’s legendary founder, Abraham-Louis Breguet, is rightfully lauded as the inventor of the tourbillon, but his lifetime horological resumé goes far beyond even that: he made the first self-winding movement, the first watch that was wound by a crown rather than a key, the pare-chute shock protection system, and the gong system for repeater watches, among other innovations. His customers included historical figures like King Louis XVI of France, Queen Marie-Antoinette, and Napoleon Bonaparte. He even invented a style of hands that many other watchmakers other than Breguet still use today. The modern brand that bears his name is one of the undisputed, upper-echelon Swiss watch maisons, alongside names like Vacheron Constantin and Audemars Piguet, and the jewel in the crown of the Swatch Group. All that said and acknowledged, a newcomer to Breguet, especially the prospective owner of his or her first Breguet watch, may find all of this background intimidating. And make no mistake, Breguet is unapologetic in both its embrace of historical renown and its timepieces’ exalted level of luxury. The brand’s modern-day stewards harbor no illusion that they offer anything that would be any aficionado’s “first watch.” The whole concept of “entry level” must be stretched a bit at this venerated tier of watchmaking: like Patek Philippe, A. Lan...
Monochrome
Being a watch enthusiast/collector often requires looking at things with more than a little bit of romance. To make us want to keep acquiring the same tiny combination of metal, gears and springs over and over and over again, a watch must be more than the sum of its parts. Sometimes, that means looking back […]
Two Broke Watch Snobs
The uniform is uniform, but the watch remains an expressive blend of utility and aesthetic style unique to that military professional. Not exclusive to, but prevalent within the Special Operations community is the facilitation of relationships through common interests. The first SOF Truth states: “humans are more important than hardware”. For the Special Operations professional, people-not equipment, make the critical difference. Ironically, many of us are bonding over hardware…our watches.
Teddy Baldassarre
When TAG Heuer released the Carrera “Glassbox” in 2023 it was immediately received as one of the better vintage reinterpretations of the post-pandemic era. Why exactly is it so beloved? Well, first off, it was the first non-limited production or limited edition ‘Glassbox’ Carrera since the line was introduced all the way back in 2015 with the Calibre 18 Telemeter. Then came notable limited editions like the Skipper reissue and 160th anniversary edition. Secondly, the 39mm-wide case with that personality-packed, domed sapphire crystal (aka "Glassbox") struck a good balance between modern manufacturing/finishing and vintage-inspired design. Now as LVMH Watch Week 2025 kicks off, TAG Heuer has released a new Carrera Chronograph "Glassbox" in a striking purple dial that is borrowed from a limited-edition Monaco from 2022. We haven’t seen too many purple-dial watches so far, so it’s savvy for TAG to get in on the ground floor of what could (or just as easily could not) be the next big color at the top of 2025. Personally, I think it looks great and could very well be the most attractive iteration of the Glassbox so far. While I love and admire TAG’s consistent dedication to its vintage-racing-inspired history, it’s so nice to see something that isn’t really steeped in any legacy story but rather just looks cool and stands on its own in the moment. The 39mm wide and 13.86mm-thick case of the Carrera Glassbox (with 100 meters of water resistance) has a 46mm lug-...
There are occasions in life that are easy to consider special. They could be something as obvious as an important anniversary, graduation, or tickets to a musical. It’s easy to think of what clothes you might wear, or what watch you might grab for times like these. But life deserves more special moments than just the obvious ones-more moments of celebration, of gratitude, of friendship, or of reflection. These less apparent, but equally important instances also deserve some thoughtful curation that can enhance our ability to fully be in the moment… enter Serica’s Reference 1174, also known as the Parade. The post Serica Parade: A Unique Celebration of Quiet Elegance appeared first on Worn & Wound.
Worn & Wound
Last year, when Ressence announced the Type 8, it was met with great excitement and surprise by their fans, including yours truly. A simpler and less expensive Ressence wasn’t something that seemed on the horizon. The watch was a stripped-down take on the seemingly magical Ressence display, reduced to hours and minutes. A lack of numerals, matched with an expansive, heavily domed dial, gave the Type 8 a different mood from Ressence’s other watches. Rather than leaning toward the technical, they felt meditative, which is perhaps to say, they felt less about the engineering and more about the resulting experience. I shared my thoughts in a review you can read here. A year and a half or so later, Ressence has dropped one of the biggest surprises of 2024: a follow-up to the Type 8, which is logically called the Type 9. This wasn’t at a big event like Geneva Watch Days or Watches and Wonders but rather a random week in December, making it even more unexpected. Adding to the shock, it’s another departure from the Ressence norm, featuring their most compact case, and yet continuing the simpler hours and minutes only dial. However, where the Type 8 felt like a radical change, the Type 9 feels more like a spin-off. It’s not a new story but a subplot or side quest. Perhaps, even an alternate take on the Type 8. Case Typically, with Ressence, the dial is the star of the show, but for the Type 9, it’s the case. The dial is special, too, but it feels like a variation on the...
Fratello
Hello, and happy New Year! What better way to venture into another trip around the Sun than by setting yourself up with a solid set of New Year’s watch resolutions? In today’s episode, Nacho, Daan, and Lex discuss theirs for 2025. They include everything from pondering potential future purchases to considering consolidating comprehensive collections. The […] Visit Fratello Talks: Our New Year’s Watch Resolutions 2025 to read the full article.
Hodinkee
A whole lot closer than the loupe you keep on your desk.
Monochrome
We might be small when looking at a world map, but the Dutch are capable of great things! The thing that first comes to mind is no doubt the stereotypical wooden clogs, tulips and windmills, but we’re capable of far more than that. We’re actually a world leader in water management and a fair few […]
WatchAdvice
In this revisited article we originally published early in 2024, we take a look at the (then) new Raymond Weil Millesime with Mario going hands on with the Challenge Watch Award Winning piece from 2023’s GPHG. Originally published April 22nd, 2024 What We Love: Every design element feels exceptionally thought-out Appears larger than on paper, but wears comfortably and true to size A spec & design monster for the price point What We Don’t: Some design elements feel slightly unnecessary Lack of a date can bug some people Would have liked a more finished movement Overall Rating: 8.75/10 Value for Money: 8/10 Wearability: 9/10 Design: 9/10 Build Quality: 9/10 After the Piaget Polo Date Review, Chamath opened the floor to me, asking what other watches I wanted to review. Unlike last time, I didn’t jump straight into the annals of priceless and inaccessible haute horlogerie. With my newfound experience in reviewing timepieces, it felt right not to give him a heart attack this time. So, instead of asking for an MB&F; or an Urwerk, I gleefully drafted a shortlist of five timepieces to review. There wasn’t a real theme, rhyme or reason with the pieces I requested. I chose pieces not based on brand, price or reputation, but on what intrigued me the most horologically. It was hard to restrict myself to five, (There are so many I love!) but my feeble mind would have exploded before I managed to compile everything I wanted to see. Enter Geneva brand Raymond Weil – a relat...
Deployant
Christmas is the season of joy. To a watch enthusiast, hardly anything in this world brings more joy than his or her dream watches. A watch enthusiast also understands that these watches are often not easily attainable. Nevertheless, here at Deployant, we like to dream a little and then leave the rest to Father Christmas.Read More
Monochrome
Rolex arguably has more iconic models than any major watchmaker, from the Submariner to the Datejust to the Explorer (and many more). Still, the Cosmograph Daytona has become something of a unicorn and a collector’s dream in the last couple of decades. At a time when the brand’s steel sports watches were still readily available […]
Time+Tide
For less than $50, these seven Casio watches are no-brainers, whether you want plastic fantastic, or something a little more daily-friendly.The post 7 of the best Casio watches under $50 appeared first on Time+Tide Watches.
SJX Watches
Hublot’s latest release is a limited edition created in collaboration with Novak Djokovic, the tennis champion who has 24 Grand Slam titles. The Big Bang Unico Novak Djokovic is encased in a carbon composite that recycles the player’s tennis racquets and Lacoste polo t-shirts. And its movement has been reworked to utilise aluminium bridges and plates, ensuring the entire watch weighs less than a tennis ball. Initial thoughts Often criticised for its pricey, Sellita-equipped entry-level models and numerous limited editions, Hublot is sometimes controversial. The brand’s higher-end watches, however, are usually more interesting (and occasionally very complex) and sometimes better value. Priced at US$52,700, the Big Bang Unico Novak Djokovic is expensive enough that it’s not a value proposition. It is, however, interesting for the case material. Moreover it holds a special appeal for fans of Novak Djokovic. And intrinsically, it is technically competent as it’s equipped with a modified Unico movement that is mostly aluminium and ultra light. Tennis racquets Sized like the standard Big Bang Unico, this measures 42 mm by 14.5 mm. The case material, however, is unique. The case and bezel are in a composite derived from 25 Head tennis racquets, 17 dark blue and 15 light blue Lacoste polo t-shirts used by Djokovic throughout the 2023 season. These ground-up racquets and shirts are mixed with an epoxy resin reinforced with quartz powder and glass, resulting in a distinc...
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Worn & Wound
Over time, I’ve come to realize that my favorite emotion to experience in this hobby is surprise. That could be because I work in the watch industry and am therefore exposed to so many watches that are the opposite of surprising. Predictability, in any job, leads to a certain amount of drudgery. But those moments of surprise, seeing or reading about a watch that you didn’t expect or couldn’t have conceived of, more than make up for it. By the same token, I understand that for some in our community, surprise or any rocking of the boat is less desirable. If you view watches from a strictly classicist perspective, you might roll your eyes at purely adventurous designs in the same way I do at watches that seem to just be repeating what has come before. Part of me, I have to admit, envies the watch enthusiasts who can see a vintage inspired, black dialed dive watch and be ready to throw the rest of it away. There’s an idea that I keep turning around in my head, that watches were never really intended to be “collected,” that one good one is all anyone really needs, so there’s something correct about seeing a watch like a Tudor Black Bay (a watch I own and love, and even won a Thunderdome with) and feeling like you’ve just a met a watch that will be with you forever. At this point, that’s just not me, and I find myself seeking out watches that feel obscure, strange, or neglected somehow. I want to discover new, under the radar, and risky designs made by crea...
Fratello
Roughly six months ago, I penned my first article on a Venezianico watch. It was impressive considering I hadn’t heard of the brand. Since then, I’ve covered several of the company’s watches from a distance. I finally met the team and saw the watches in person at the WatchPro Salon 2024. Among the pieces we […] Visit Hands-On With The New Venezianico Arsenale Ultrablack And Blue to read the full article.
Worn & Wound
There are niche watches, and then there are niche watches. A dive watch on its own, if you think about, is a very specific kind of thing, and in spite of their incredible popularity, we shouldn’t forget that they’re built for a highly specific purpose that almost nobody wearing one will ever participate in. A vintage inspired dive watch with an alarm that can be heard underwater is even more specific, and a dive watch with an alarm that can be heard underwater and has been designed to imagine what an example of this watch might have looked like if it existed ten years before the actual watch it’s inspired by – well, that’s about as far down the rabbit hole as most will care to go. But that’s what Massena LAB and Vulcain have cooked up for their new collaboration, and it’s one of the strangest and most charming watches of the year. The Vulcain Nautical Legacy Massena LAB can perhaps be most easily understood as a new spin on the Vulcain Nautical Cricket, which was revived last year. The watch we covered last summer was Vulcain’s attempt at bringing back a truly strange diver that takes a genuinely different approach to the very idea of “timing” a dive. The Nautical effectively brings the no-decompression table to the dial itself, and through the setting of the alarm and matching it with the dive’s depth, the diver can calculate the length of their decompression stops as they make their way to the surface. Again, truly niche, and an early example of t...
Worn & Wound
If you don’t get what you’re looking at, don’t worry. You’re not alone - in fact, that’s sort of the point. A quick glance at the new L’Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse is more likely to incite questions than offer answers, but the latest masterpiece from Parmigiani Fleurier, timed to release last week in time for founder Michel Parmigiani’s birthday, presents us with a watch unlike anything we’ve seen from the brand in recent years. The general architecture of the watch will be familiar to those conversant in Parmigiani’s chosen language - the straight squared-off lugs and pastel pallet are reminiscent of the Toric watches released earlier this year - but it won’t take long to realize that there’s something fairly significant missing from the celebratory watch: a dial. The Armoriale Répétition Mystérieuse is also the latest entry in a series of Minute Repeater wristwatches to deliberately de-emphasize the visible display of time we’re all so used to. Recent examples of this trick have come from H. Moser & Cie., whose Swiss Alp Watch Concept Black opted for a clean Vantablack dial with nothing but a visible tourbillon; and Biver, whose 2023 OnlyWatch entry replaced its visible dial with a beautiful scene rendered in stone marquetry. But just because we’ve seen versions of this before, doesn’t mean the impact is any lessened here. In fact, this implementation is among the best I’ve encountered, and more than holds its own, while a...
Worn & Wound
My relationship with Doxa watches spans over 20 years. As an avid reader of Clive Cussler, I was particularly excited when Doxa decided to relaunch the Sub 300T in the early 2000s. I even managed to secure a review sample for the magazine I wrote for then. Once I received the watch, I became curious about why Clive Cussler chose to have his antagonist wear an orange-dialed Doxa watch. To find out, I reached out to his publicist and received a surprising response: “Dr. Cussler would like you to call him for an interview.” I still vividly remember the shock and nervousness I felt. After leaving him a message, he promptly returned my call, and we spoke for an entire hour. Ultimately, I received my answer, which you can read about in my article on the Doxa Clive Cussler Themed Sub 300T release we published last July. If you want to read my full interview with Dr. Cussler, even though the magazine is no longer available, NUMA, Cussler’s real-life National Underwater and Marine Agency, has it on their website. Since then, I have owned numerous Doxa watches, but none of them have called out my name quite as much as their latest collaboration with Topper Fine Jewelers. It’s as if they were thinking about me while designing this one. The new Doxa Sub 300 Great White Topper Edition is a white-dialed beauty with a fully luminescent dial. I know what you’re thinking: if you’re going to own a Doxa, shouldn’t it be colorful? Specifically, shouldn’t it be orange? The answ...
Fratello
Less than a month ago, Omega introduced two new Seamaster Diver 300M versions. Those instantly grabbed the number-one spot in my imaginary “favorite modern Seamaster” ranking by taking the watch’s current design and toning it down. On the off chance that you might consider those two a bit bland, Omega is back with something much […] Visit Introducing: The New Omega Seamaster Diver 300M Titanium Bronze Gold to read the full article.
SJX Watches
Omega revived the CK 2998-inspired Speedmaster “First Omega in Space” earlier in the year. More than just another remake, I am convinced the FOiS may just be the perfect Speedmaster, at least for me. The second-generation “First Omega in Space” (FOiS) sports details that will appeal to enthusiasts, including a blue-grey “soleil” dial and domed sapphire crystal that completes the vintage-inspired look. And it’s powered by the latest generation Moonwatch cal. 3861. Initial thoughts Despite being interested in watches since my sophomore year in high school, I can’t say that the Speedmaster was ever a go-to watch for me. I have had a couple of Speedies here and there, but the model was never the centre of my attention as a collector. I mostly felt the modern Speedmaster, in its many forms, is good, especially for the price point, but never perfect. Based on that experience, I didn’t expect much of the FOiS, thinking it be yet another reissue, which is why I hesitated when I got the call from the Omega boutique in Seoul. My opinion changed when I went to the boutique to try it on. I was surprised to see how appealing it looked on the wrist, especially compared to the first-generation FOiS that was too plain with a black dial that seemed flat. Others seem to share my opinion. The critical response to the new FOiS has been mostly positive, other than the familiar debate over the faux-aged lume, which some find excessive but I personally don’t mind. In fact, I ...
SJX Watches
Founded by a Japanese transplant to Switzerland, Aigaki is making its debut with the impressive Direct-Impulse Tourbillon. Though relatively youthful, brand founder Takahiko Aigaki is a watchmaker of the old school who developed the watch and then makes almost all of it by hand. Produced almost entirely in Takahiko Aigaki’s own home-workshop with hand-operated tools, the Tourbillon is characterised by its hand-engraved silver dial and a finely-finished movement combining unique architecture with a proprietary escapement. Initial thoughts I’ve been following Aigaki on Instagram for several months, having become intrigued by the unusual in-line architecture of the movement, and its symmetrical direct-impulse escapement. Initially, only the movement components were shown, but even this sneak peak was enough to pique my interest. Now that the watch has been unveiled, I feel like it was worth the wait. The Tourbillon is a compact, 37 mm timepiece with a clean aesthetic and domed crystal that lends it something of a vintage feel. On its face, the appearance is simple, but the watch instantly conveys the sensation of a finely-crafted object, especially when you turn it over. But even on the front, the details of the dial give away the fact that it is hand-made. Interestingly, there is no ink or paint used on the dial. All of the dial markings and elements are hand-engraved using traditional tools; the brand name is engraved with a hand-operated pantograph. The Tourbillon is v...
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